m 


Po«>',ip[S/iuiitt. 


WHiT£,pm 


IF  YOU  ARE    GOING  TO 

Moosehead  Lake,  Rangeley  Lakes,  Richardson  Lakes,  Bar 

Harbor,  South  West  Harbor,  Passamaquoddy  Bay, 

Boothbay,  Castine,  Poland  Springs,  Bethel, 

Lake  Umbagog,  Andover, 

or  to  auy  other  place  in  the  State  of  Maine  or  the  Alaritime  Provinces,  you  will 
find  it  advantageous  to  take  tickets  and  travel  from  Boston  tDia  Portland  by  the 
Eastern  Railkoad,  the  Sea-Shore  Line. 


THE     EASTERN     RAILROAD 

Also  forms  the  direct  short  route  to 

All  Points  in  the  White  Mountains, 

its  trains  running  to  Fabtan's,  without  change,  through  Crawford  Notch, 
saving  FORTY  MILES  over  any  other  Ime. 

Among  Its  many  points  of  interest  not  already  named  are 

Svraiupscott,  Iflarbleliead,  Beverly   Farms,  IMTagnoIia,  Man- 

chester-by-thie-Sea,  tiloncester,  Rockport,  Pigeon  Cove, 

Salisbury,  Boar's  Head,  Rye  and  Hampton  Beaclies, 

Newbury  port,  Portsmouth,    Torlt,    Ne'wcastle, 

The  Isles  of  Skoals,  Wolfboro*,  Hiake  Win- 

nipiseogee,  and  the  Islands  in  Casco 

Bay,  at  Portland. 

Its  equipment  is  unexcelled.  PULLMAN  PALACE  CARS  and  OBSER- 
VATION CARS  are  used.  Fast  and  frequent  trains  are  supplied,  and  every 
endeavor  is  made  to  maintain  this  as  the 

Tourist's  Line. 


Through  and  Excursion  tickets  procurable  at  principal  ticket  offices. 
Depot  in  Boston,  on  Causeway  St.,  opposite  Friend  St.    City  Ticket  Office, 
306  Washington  St.,  next  door  to  Old  South  Church. 


D.  W.  SANBORN, 

Mast.  TVan*.,  Boston. 


LUCIUS  TUTTLE, 

G.P.and  T.A. 


t:::> 


RLF 


F 


Digitized  by  tine  Internet  Arciiive 

in  2007  witii  funding  from 

IVIicrosoft  Corporation 


littp://www.arcli  ive.org/details/farrarsillustratOOfarriala 


C  O  3V  I?,  O  Y  »  S^ 


tiiimm  mmm  im:  saueod  rods, 

SUPERIOR  TO  ALL  OTHERS. 

Awarded  Three  Medals  at  the  International  Fisheries  Exhibition,  London,  1883. 


o 


Prompt  attention  given  to  orders  by  mail.  My  personal 
knowledge  of  the  Rangeley  and  Moosehead  regions  enables 
me  to  select  intelligently  the  tackle  best  adapted  for  those 
waters. 


APPLETON  &  LITCHFIELD, 

IKP0BTEB8    AND    BETAILERS  OF 

Fishing  Taclcle. 


HAND-MADE    FLY   AND    BASS    RODS 

OF    BETHABARA    AND    LANCEWOOD. 

These  are  made  especially  for  our  retail  trade,  and  each  one 
guaranteed. 

Reels  of  every  description, 

Water-proof  Fly  and  Trolling  Lines, 
Sillc,  Linen,  and  Cotton  Lines, 

fdr  all  kinds  of  fishing. 

Our  SNELLED   HOOKS   are  tied  especially  for  us. 

Leather  and  Tin  TacMC'Cases. 
ROD     CASES 

made  of  EXTRA   HEAVY   Leather. 

Complete   sets  of  GERMAN    SILVER,  NICKEL-PLATED, 
and  BRASS  ROD-MOUNTINGS,  for  amateur  makers. 
FLIES  for  all  waters.     Special  patterns  tied  to  order. 
ARTIFICIAL  BAITS  of  all  kinds. 
Orders  by  mail  receive  prompt  attention* 

APPLETON    &    LITCHFIELD, 

304  Washington  Street, 
2d  door   North   of  the      j  Ttnatn'n      Mfttt<t 

Old  South  Church.       {  Miosion,  jnass. 


FOR  RICHARDSON  AND  RANGELEY  LAKES. 

Jifiily  Line  of  /irst-clnsK  Steamers  between 

BOSTON  and  PORTLAND 


ONE   OF  THE   STEAMERS 

"Tremont,"  "John  Brooks,"  "  Forest  City" 

WILL  LEAVE  INDIA  WHARF,  BOSTON. 

FOR    PORTLAND 

livery  Evening  (Sunday  excepted)  at  7  o'clock, 

Comioctiiig,  on  arrival,  with  Maine  Central,  Knox  &  Lincoln,  Portland  & 
Ogdensbiii-g,  Graml  Trunk,  and  Portland  iV:  Rocli<>ster  Kailroads,  and  with 
Bangor  ^ic  Mucliias  Steamers  for  points  on  Coast  of  Maine. 

THIS  LINE  AFFORDS  A  MOST  DESIRABLE  ROUTE  TO 

Lewistou,  oil  Orcliard  Beacl,  Polani  Spriug,  Rangeley  Lakes, 

Mt.  Desert,  Bethel,  Oorham,  N.  H.,  North  Conway,  Crawford's,  Fabyans,  &c. 

Finest  Ocean  Trip  on  Eastern  Coast,  and   best  route  to  White 

Mountains,  and  Inland  and  Seaside  Resorts  of  Maine. 

THROUGH   TICKETS  AT  LOW   RATES. 

Leave   Portlan  1    for   Boston  every  evening  (Sundays  excepted)  at  7  o'cloclc, 
connecting,  on  arrival,  with  the  earliest  trains  on  all  diverging  lines. 

J.  B.  COYLE,  J.  B.  COYLE,  Jr.,  J.  F.  LISCOMB, 

Treas.  <t  Manager.  Gen.  Agent.  Gen.  Tkt.  Agt. 

WILLIAM  WEEKS,  Agent,  Boston. 


SPECIAL  NOTICES. 


ANDOVER  HOUSE, 

Andover,  Maine.  Albert  W.  Thomas  &  Co.,  Pro- 
prietors, 

Only  12  miles  from  the  Richardson  Lakes,  and  the  most 
direct  route  to  the  Middle  and  Upper  Dams,  the  two  best 
places  for  trout-fishing  in  the  entire  Lake  Region. 

This  popular  hotel  is  now  open  for  the  summer  travel, 
and  is  capable  of  giving  good  accommodations  to  fifty 
guests.  It  is  most  desirably  situated  in  the  charming 
village  of  Andover,  21  miles  from  Br3'ant's  Pond,  a  sta- 
tion on  the  Grand  Trunk  road,  with  which  it  is  con- 
nected by  a  first-class  line  of  stages.  Only  12  hours 
from  Boston. 

The  house  commands  a  very  fine  view  of  the  moun- 
tains, by  which  it  is  entirely  suri'ounded.  There  are 
many  beautiful  walks  and  drives  in  the  vicinity,  and  very 
pleasant  excursions  may  be  made,  by  means  of  private 
teams,  to  various  places  within  a  radius  of  five  to  twenty 
miles. 

The  hotel  is  located  in  the  centre  of  the  village,  and 
near  post-office  and  telegraph-office,  churches,  stores,  etc. 

The  trout  brooks  about  Andover  are  all  within  easy 
walking  or  riding  distance  of  the  hotel,  and  furnish 
excellent  sport. 

Terms,  $2.00  per  day.     $7  to  10  by  the  week- 

Parties  going  to  the  Richardson  or  Rangeley  Lakes  will 
be  furnished  with  teams,  guides,  and  boats,  by  Mr. 
Thomas,  at  reasonable  prices. 

Any  further  information  in  regard  to  Andover  or  the 
Lakes  will  be  cheerfully  furnished  by  Mr.  Thomas. 


FARRAR'S 


Kllit$tnttdwniriel0ol' 


THE  ANDROSCOGGIN  LAKES, 


AND  THE   HEAD-WATERS  OF  THE 


CONNECTICUT,  MAGALLOWAY,  AND  ANDROSCOGGIN 
RIVERS, 

DIXVILLE  NOTCH,  GRAFTON  NOTCH,  AND  ANDOVER, 
MAINE,   AND   VICINITY. 


A  New  and  Correct  Map  of  the  Lake  Region, 

Drawn  and  Printed  Expressly  for  this  Book. 


ALSO,  CONTAIKS 


A  VALUABLE  TREATISE  ON   "CAMPING  OUT."  AND  THE  GAME 
A?fU  PISH   LAWS  OF  MAINE   AND   .NEW   HAMPSHIRE 

(As  Revised  by  the  last  Legislatures), 

RAILROAD,  STEAMBOAT,  AND  STAGE  ROUTES, 

Time-Tatoles,  Table  of  Fares,  T^lst  of  Hotels,  Prices  of  Board, 
and  other  valuable  Information  for  tbe  Sports- 
man,  Tourist,   or   l»leasux"e-Seel£er. 


By  CAPT.  ^CHARLES  A.  J.  FAERAR, 

Author  of  "Moosehead  Lake  and  the  North  Maine  Wildcrmss,"  Illustrated;   "Eantwnrd 
Hoi  or  Adventures  at  Kangelcy  Lakes,"  "  Catnp  Life  in  the  Wilderness,"  etc. 


BOSTON : 

lee:  ajstu  shepard. 

New     York:     Charles     T.     Dillingham. 

18  84. 


Entered  according  to  Act  of  Congress,  in  the  year  1884, 

Bt  CHARLK8   A.  J.  FABRAR, 
In  the  office  of  the  Librarian  of  Congress  at  Washington. 


The  Illustrations  in  this  book  wore  drawn  expressly  for  it, 
by  Nat.  Brown,  C.  W.  Reed,  M.  M.  Tidu,  F.  Myrick, 
E.  H.  Garrett,  F.  C.  IIassam,  and  others,  from  Pliotographs 
and  Sketches  made  at  the  places  represented,  under  the  super- 
vision of  Mr.  Farrar,  and  wore  engraved  by  Nat.  Brown, 
Geo.  E.  Johnson,  W.  H.  Bkicher,  and  other  first-clas.« 
artists. 


PREFACE  TO  THE  NINTH   EDITION. 


0  many  changes  are  constantly  occurrins:  in  the 
Androscoggin  Lakes  Region,  that,  in  spite 
of  the  heavy  expense  entailed,  the  author  is 
compelled  to  get  out  a  new  edition  of  this  work 
every  year. 

Special  attention  has  been  paid  f  i  making  the 
Guide  complete  and  correct,  the  latest  news  from  the  lake  region 
having  been  procured  up  to  the  time  of  going  to  press ;  and  it  is 
the  author's  opinion  that  those  wishing  to  visit  this  region  will 
find,  from  a  careful  reading  of  its  pages,  all  the  information 
that  is  necessary  to  make  their  journey  a  pleasant  one. 

During  the  nineteenth  century  book-making  has  become  an  art ; 
and  in  typography,  paper,  and  illustrations,  tliis  A^olume  will  com- 
pare favorably  with  those  of  more  pretensions ;  while,  as  a  Guide- 
Book,  for  the  last  three  years,  it  has  been  called  the  finest  in  the 
country.  A  new  cover,  of  characteristic  and  original  design,  takes 
the  place  of  the  old  one.  Several  now  engravings  have  been 
added  ;  also,  thirty-two  pages  of  reading-matter;  M'hilc  the  paper 
on  which  the  book  is  printed  has  been  manufactured  expressly 
for  it.  Several  additions  have  been  made  to  the  map,  and  a  few 
trifling  errors  corrected ;  while  the  price  of  the  book  remains  the 
same.  It  is  the  only  standard  work  on  the  Androscoggin  Lakes 
Region,  and  is  recognized  as  an  authority  on  all  matters  apper- 
taining to  that  locality,  by  Forest  and  Stream,  the  American 
Angler,  and  other  first-class  sporting  publications. 

The  author  would  call  careful  attention  to  the  changes  in  the 
Dixviixe  Notch  Roi'te  ;  arrangements  having  been  perfected  for 
a  regular  daily  line  through  this  wonderful  region  of  picturesque 
beauty,  introducing  the  tourist  to  the  finest  mountain  scenerv  in 

(9) 


10  PREFACE  TO  NINTH   EDITION. 

New  England.  A  daily  stage-line  will  also  run  from  Bethel 
direct  to  the  new  Lakeside  Hotel,  in  Cambridge,  N.H.,  at  the 
foot  of  Lake  Unibagog. 

The  travel  to  Maine  still  rapidly  increases,  and  her  numerous 
summer  resorts  will  accommodate  ten  times  the  people  that  have 
yet  appeared  at  them.  Among  them  all  the  Androscoggin  Lakes 
Region  stands  preSrainent  for  health  and  attractiveness,  and  the 
facilities  for  reaching  this  charming  location  are  yearly  increased, 
while  the  cost  of  tickets  is  reduced  with  each  season.  The  placing 
of  a  daily  line  of  steamers  on  Lake  Umbagog  and  the  Magalloway 
River  is  a  long-needed  improvement,  and  will  be  sure  to  be  ap- 
preciated by  the  travelling  public,  who  are  indebted  for  this  ser- 
vice to  the  author  of  this  book,  and  also  for  the  large  reductions 
in  fares  that  have  taken  place  the  last  three  years. 

The  different  railroads  will  offer  a  larger  variety  of  round-trip 
tickets  to  this  region  this  summer  than  ever  before,  and  they  will 
be  on  sale  at  all  general  ticket-offices  throughout  the  country. 

Our  readers  should  be  cai-eful  and  not  overlook  the  advertise- 
ments, as  they  each  contain  something  of  interest  that  will  not  be 
found  elsewhere  in  the  book. 

llocKViEW,  Jamaica  Pi-ain,  May  1,  1884. 


CONTENTS. 


CHAITEB  PAGE 

I.  —  The  Androscoggin  Lakes 15 

II.  —  Hints  on  Camping  Out 22 

I!I.  —  Routes  from  Boston  to  the  Lake  Reg-ion.     The  Bethel 

and  Lake  Uniliagog  Route 41 

IV.  —  From  Lake  Unibagog  to  the  Middle  Dani      .        .         .      o.3 
V.  —  The  Bryant's  Pond  and  Andover  Route.    From  Boston 

to  Andover,  Me 63 

Vr.  — From  Andover  to  the  Arm  of  the  Lake  ....      75 
VII.  —  From  the  South  Arm  to  the  Upper  Dam          ...      87 
VIII.  —  The  Upper  Dam  and  the  Richardson  Ponds    .        .        .     101 
IX.  —  From  the  Upper  Dam  to  Bemis'  Stream,  Haines'  Land- 
ing, and  Indian  Rock 129 

X.  —  From  Indian  Rock  to  Oquossoc  Outlet,  Rangeley  Vil- 
lage, Greenvale,  and  the  head  of  Oquossoc  Lake        .     141 
XI.  —  Rangeley    Village,  Kennebago   Lake,   and  the   Seven 

Ponds    .        .        . 151 

XII.  —  The  Phillips  and  Farmington  Route.     From  Boston  to 

Greenvale,  Oquossoc  Lake,  and  Rangeley  Village  .       159 
XIII.  —  The  Gorham,  Berlin  Falls,  and  Pyrrol  Dam  Route  to  the 

Androscoggin  Lakes 173 

XIV. —  The  Great  Northern  Route.  From  New  York  and  Bos- 
ton to  the  Androscoggin  Lakes,  Dixville  Notch,  and 
Connecticut  Lake,  via  Boston,  Concord,  and   Mon- 

ti'eal  Railroad 175 

XV. —  From  the  Glen  House,  and  Fabyan's,  White  Mountains, 
to  the    Androscoggin  Lakes    Region,   via    Dixville 

Notch  and  Eri-ol  Dam 193 

XVI.  —  From  Boston  to  the   Androscoggin  Lakes,  via  North 

Stratford,  (Jolebrook,  Dixville  Notch,  and  Errol  Dam,     199 
XVII .  —  Parmachenee  I^ake,  and  the  Magalloway  River.  Routes 
from  Boston,  Expense,  Scenery,  Fishing,   Hunting, 

etc .217 

XVIII.  —  Andover,  Maine,  as  a  Summer  Resort    ....    237 
(11) 


12  CONTENTS. 


OIIAFTBB  PACK 

XIX.  —  Drives  around  Andovcr.    To  Ro\bnn-  Pond,    Black 
Brook   Notch,  White   Cap  Mountain,  and   J" aimer's 

Hill 243 

XX.  —  Waterfalls  and  Cascades.    The  Cataracts,  Upper  and 

Lower  Falls,  Cascatlc,  Basin,  and  Flume   .        .        .  247 
XXI. —  Bald  Pate  Mountain.    The  Ascent  and  View  from  its 

Summit 25.3 

XXII.  —  Excursions  to  Dunn's  Notch,  and  First  B  Ilill        .        .  259 

XXIII.  —  Excursions  to  Lake  Umbajfog,  Magalloway  River,  and 

Dixvillo  Notch                      ......  263 

XXIV.  —  Trout-Fishing 269 

XXV.  —  Game  and  Game-Fish  Laws  of  New  Hampshire    .        .  277 

XXVI.  —  Game  Laws  of  Maine 285 

XXVII.  —  Game-Fish  Laws  of  Maine 288 

XXVIII.  —  List  of  Hotels,  Accommodations,  and  Rates   .        .        .  298 

XXIX.'    Rates  of  Fares  and  Round  Trip  Excursion  Tickets        .  301 

Index 315 

Special  Notices. 

Wm.  Read  &  Sons,  Guns  and  Fishing  Tackle I 

Preble  House,  Portland,  Maine I 

Bryant's  Pond  and  Andover  Stage  Line II 

Portland  Steam  Packet  Company Ill 

Andovcr  House,  Andovcr,  Maine IV 

Grand  Trunk  Railway V 

Bryant's  Pond  and  Andover  .Stage 317 

Richardson-Rangelcy  Lakes  Transportation  Co 318 

'•                "             •*                 "              "...  319 

Stonington  Lino  to  N.Y 320 

Thomas  Cook  &  Son    .        .        . 321 

Maine  Central  Railroad 322 

Steamer  Oquossoc  (top) 323 

Portland  Packing  Co.  (Irottom) 323 

Rangcley  Lake  House 324 

French's  Hotel,  Andover,  Me 325 

Parsons  House,  Colebrook,  N.H 326 

Willard  House  No.  Stratford,  N.H 327 

Grand  Tnmk  Railway 328 

Mocn  &  Washburn  Manif.  Co 329 

Forest  and  Stream  Pub.  Co .330 

American  Angler 331 

National,  Railroad  Publishing  Co 332 

"             "               "            " 333 


LIST    OF    ILLaSTRA^TIONS 


PAGE 

Frontispiece 6 

"Camping  Out"  at  Mouth  of  River,  Upp«r  Dam       ....  20 

Frame  of  Camp 25 

BoofandEnd 26 

Camp  Complete 27 

Camp  Furniture .        .        .28 

Camp  Cookery 29 

The  "  Old  Union  "  of  Lake  Umbagog  :  first  steamer  ever  run  ou  the 

Androscoggin  Lakes 33 

A  Private  Party  en  route  to  Andover,  Maine 36 

Androscoggin  River,  between  Bethel  and  Newiy  Corner          .        .  42 

Screw  Auger  Falls,  Bear  River 46 

Lake  Umbagog  from  B  Hill 50 

Old  Middle  Dam  Camp,  Lake  Welokennebacook       ....  53 

New  Middle  Dam  Camp,  Lake  Welokennebacook    ....  56 

Middle  Dam  and  Rapid  River 60 

Crossing  the  Androscoggin  River  at  Rumford 65 

French's  Hotel,   Andover,  Maine 68 

Village  of  Andover,  Me 72 

Devil's  Den,  Lake  Road,  Andover,  Maine 76 

Woodland  Glimpses 80 

Natural  Arch,  Lake  Road,  C  Township,  Maine         ....  82 

Steamer  Welokennebacook  and  Buckboard  at  South  Arm        .        .  85 

Lakeview  Cottage  at  South  Arm 88 

Wooding  up  on  Lake  Welokennebacook -90 

Lake  Welokennebacook  and  Speckled  Mountain       .        .        .        .  92 

Lake  Molechunkamunk  from  head  of  Narrows          ....  94 

Camp  Whitney  and  view  looking  North 96 

Rapids  below  Upper  Dam  and  Aziscohos  Mountain  ....  102 

The  Upper  Dam 105 

Birch  Lodge  and  View  looking  South 109 

Log  Camp  and  Boat  House,  Richardson  Pond 112 

Camp  BcUevue,  Lake  Molechunkamunk  ( 1876)        .        .        .        .  116 

A:siscohos  and  Observatory  Mountains  from  Camp  Bellevue      .        .  119 

(13) 


14  LIST   OF    ILLUSTRATIONS. 

PAGB 

Camp  Bellcvuc,  Lake  Molechunkamunk  (  US82)       .        .        .        .124 

Lake  Molechunkamunk,  south-east  view,  fi-om  Camp  Bellevue        .  128 

Camp  .AJleiton,  I^ke  Mooselucmajruntic 132 

Lake  Moo!>ehtcroa<rnutic  and  Bcmis  Mountains  fram  Bugle  Cove    .  13o 

Indian  Rock  and  Rangelcy  Stream 139 

Interior  of  Camp  Kennebago 142 

Mountain  View  House,  Oquossoc  Outlet 145 

Steamer  Molly -Chunkamnnk  at  Oquossoc  Outlet       .        .        .        .149 

Kennebago  Lake  from  Snowman's  Point 153 

Maine  Central  Railroad  Bridge,  Farmington,  Maine          .        .        .  158 

State  Normal  School,  Farmington,  Maine 162 

Bai-ileu  House,  Phillips,  Maine 166 

View  of  Oquossoc  Lake  and  Ram  I>land 169 

Rangeley  Lake  House,  Rangeley,  Maine 172 

Willard  House,  North  Stratford,  N.II 183 

Mount  Monaduock,  and  Colebi-ook,  N.H. 185 

Beaver  Falls,  Colebrook,  N.II 187 

Dix  House,  Dixville  Notch,  N.H 192 

General  View  of  Dixville  Notch,  N.H 195 

Wild  River  Bridge,  Grand  Trunk  liailway i05 

Alpine  House,  fiorluim,  N.H 209 

Berlin  Falls,  Androscoggin  River,  N.H 212 

Old  man  of  the  Mountain,  Dixville  Notch,  N.H 216 

Steamer  Diamond  on  Andi'oscoggiu  River 220 

The  Flume,  Dixville  Notch,  N.H 227 

Parmachcnec  Lake,  looking  North "233 

The  Andover  House,  jVndover,  Maine 238 

Mt.  Sawyer  and  Sluice  Dam,  Black  BixK)k  Notch,  Andover,  Maine.  242 

Upper  Fall  Catai-act  Brook,  Andovei-.  Maine 245 

Sylvan  Cascade,  Cataract  Bi-ook,  A  udoviT,  Maine      ....  248 

The  Flume,  Catai-act  Brook,  Andover,  Maine 252 

Silver  Ripple  Cascade,  Black  Brook,  Andover,  Maine       .        .        .  253 

An  Obstacle           .        .               258 

Foot  of  Kennebago  Lake 262 

l^g  Hut  iuhabitcd  by  Bubier  Family,  Rangeley,  Maine  .        .        .  267 

On  a  BucklxKtiil 270 

Andi-oscoggin  Lakes'  Spotted  Brook  Trout 273 

Camp  Henr>-,  Rangeley  Outlet 276 

Lead  Mine  Bi  idge,  Shelbnrne,  N.H.  ,..-...  284 

Mounts  Washington  and  Madison  from  Lead  Mine  Bridge       .        .  293 


CHAPTER  I. 


®l]e  ^niroscDggiin  Cakes. 


I  HE  chain  of  lakes  known  as  the  Anduos- 
COGGIN  Lakes  lie  near  the  western 
boundary  of  Maine,  in  Franklin  and  Oxford  counties.  The 
lower  lake  of  the  chain,  Umbagog,  is  more  than  half  in  Coos 
County,  New  Hampshire.     The  lakes   are   known  severally  as 

OQUOSSOC,       CUPSUPTIC,        MOOSELUCMAGUNTIC,        MOLECHUNKA- 

MUNK,  Welokennebacook,  and  Umbagog.  These  six  lakes  are 
all  connected  by  narrows  or  streams,  forming  one  continuous 
water  communication  for  about  fifty  miles. 

The  country  about  the  northern,  southern,  and  eastern  shores 
of  Oquossoc,  and  the  southern  shore  of  Umbagog,  is  partially 
cleared  up,  and  some  very  good  farms  have  been  started ;  all  the 
rest  of  the  country  in  the  lake  region  is  an  unbroken  wilderness, 
known  only  by  the  hunter  or  lumberman.  Game  and  fish  in 
abundance  are  found  through  all  the  district,  and  the  number  of 
adventurers  who  penetrate  these  rugged  wilds  in  summer  is  every 
year  on  the  increase.     The  mountains  are  well-covered  with  a 

(15) 


16  FAKRAR'S  ILLUSTRATED  GUIDE  TO 

growth  of  trees, — birch,  beech,  maple,  aah,  hemlock,  spruce, 
fir,  cedar,  and  pine,  in  the  higher  lands ;  and  along  the  courses 
of  the  streams,  almost  impenetrable  thickets  of  spruce,  hemlock, 
and  cedar.  The  spruce  affords  the  most  valuable  timber,  which 
is  run  down  the  various  streams  in  the  time  of  the  spring  fresh- 
ets, and  thence  across  the  lakes. 

Two  other  lakes  mentioned  in  this  book,  while  lying  at  a  dis- 
tance from  the  chain,  are  still  connected  with  them  by  the  rivers 
that  form  their  outlets.  Eunnebago  Lake  lies  about  eleven 
miles  north  of  Oqdossoc,  as  the  road  runs,  and  is  connected  with 
the  latter  by  the  Eennebaoo  River,  which  serves  as  an  outlet 
for  its  waters. 

Kennebaoo  is  one  of  the  prettiest  lakes  in  the  State  of  Maine, 
and  it  has  an  advantage  over  some  of  the  others  in  the  chain, 
from  the  fact  that  there  is  no  dam  at  the  foot  of  it ;  consequently 
its  shores  are  not  overflowed,  or  covered  with  dead  trees.  It  runs 
east  and  west,  and  is  almost  completely  surrounded  with  high 
mountains.  Its  shores  are  thickly  wooded,  and  there  are  several 
nice  sand  beaches  about  it.  Standing  on  the  point  at  the  head  of 
the  lake,  the  site  of  Snowman's  old  camp,  you  obtain  a  fine  view, 
embracing  nearly  the  entire  sheet  of  water.  On  your  left  is 
Spotted  Mountain,  which  descends  to  the  water,  and  extends 
along  the  lake  for  several  miles.  On  the  right,  a  little  ridge, 
known  as  Wild  Cat  Hill,  seems  to  confine  the  water  on  that 
side.  Beyond  this  is  East  Kennebago  Mountain.  West  Ken- 
NEBAGO  and  Snow  Mountains  are  also  plainly  to  be  seen  from 
this  point.  Some  of  the  most  beautiful  sunsets  we  have  ever  wit- 
nessed we  saw  at  Kennebaoo  Lake,  and  the  view  of  lake  and 
mountain  from  Snowman's  Point  during  the  sun's  decline  is 
superb.  We  do  not  try  to  describe  it,  for  it  would  be  simply  an 
impossibility.  Kennebaoo  is  five  or  six  miles  long,  and  from  a 
quarter  of  a  mile  to  a  mile  and  a  half  wide.  Three  miles  above 
the  lake  is  a  pond,  known  as  Little  Kennebaoo,  where  there  is 
good  fishing.  A  light-draught  boat  can  be  run  up  the  stream  be- 
tween the  lake  and  the  pond  without  much  difficulty.  The  Seven 
Ponds,  a  great  place  for  trout-fishing,  are  twelve  miles  north  of 
Kennebago  Lake,  and  may  be  reached  easily  by  following  up 
the  stream  from  Little  Kennebaoo.  Most  people  who  go  to 
Kennebaoo  Lake  do  not  leave  until  they  have  visited  the  falls  on 


THE  ANDKOSCOGGIN  LAKES.  17 

the  Kennebago  River.  These  are  situated  a  mile  and  a  half 
from  the  outlet.  The  mile  can  be  done  in  a  boat;  then  you  land 
at  the  head  of  the  rapids,  and  after  walking  half  a  mile  through 
the  ^70ods  you  will  reach  the  falls,  which  are  more  a  series  of 
heavy  rapids  than  a  regular  fall,  but  they  are  well  worth  a  visit. 

Parmachenee  Lake  lies  about  fifty  miles  north  of  Umbagog, 
in  a  vast  wilderness,  that  extends  for  miles  beyond  the  boundary 
between  New  England  and  Canada.  It  is  connected  with  the 
latter  lake  by  the  Magalloway  Eiver,  which  serves  as  its  out- 
let. It  is  not  so  large  as  the  most  of  the  Androscoggin 
Lakes,  but,  like  Kennebago,  it  has  a  peculiar  beauty  of  its 
own.  It  is  fast  coming  into  notice  with  sportsmen  and  fishermen, 
and  for  that  reason,  farther  on,  we  have  devoted  several  pages  to 
it.  Its  waters  are  filled  with  trout,  and  the  forest  about  it  abounds 
with  every  variety  of  game,  from  the  lively  little  squirrel  to  the 
lordly  moose.  The  scenery  in  the  locality  is  enchanting,  and, 
being  so  far  beyond  the  bound  of  civilization,  there  is  a  charm 
and  romance  in  visiting  this  lake  that  you  will  not  meet  with 
about  the  others. 

As  part  of  Umbagog  Lake,  and  some  of  the  trout  streams  in 
the  vicinity  of  Errol  Dam,  lie  in  New  Hampshire,  we  give  in  the 
back  part  of  the  Guide  the  Game  and  Fish  Laws  of  both  Maine 
and  New  Hampshire,  knowing  they  will  be  of  interest  to  persons 
visiting  these  waters. 

As  a  great  many  people  seem  to  have  an  idea  that  it  requires  no 
effort  to  catch  ten-pound  trout,  or  to  shoot  deer  or  moose,  we  as- 
sure them  that  patience  and  experience  are  both  necessary  requi- 
sites to  success  in  hunting  and  fishing. 

Theodore  Winthrop,  in  some  of  his  writings,  has  most  happily 
taken  off  the  green  sportsman  in  the  Adirondack  Region,  and  as 
what  he  has  so  truthfully  portrayed  is  equally  applicable  to  the 
Lake  Region  of  Maine,  we  give  it  here.     He  says  :  — 

"  There,  in  the  forest  you  see  the  stag  of  ten  trots  coquetting 
with  greenhorns.  He  likes  the  excitement  of  being  shot  at  and 
missed.  He  enjoys  the  smell  of  powder  in  a  battle  where  he  is 
•always  safe.  He  hears  greenhorn  blundering  through  the  woods, 
stopping  to  growl  at  briars,  stopping  to  revive  his  courage  with  the 
Dutch  supplement.  The  stag  of  ten  trots  awaits  his  foe  in  a  glade. 
The  foe  arrives,  sees  the  antlered  monarch,  and  is  panic-struck.  I 
! 


18  FARRAR'S   ILLUSTRATED   GUIDE  TO 

He  watches  him  prance  and  strike  the  ground  with  his  hoofs.  He 
slowly  recovers  heart,  takes  a  pull  at  his  flask,  rests  his  gun  upon 
a  log,  and  begins  to  study  his  mark.  The  stag  will  not  stand 
still.  Greenhorn  is  baffled.  At  last  his  target  turns  and  carefully 
exposes  that  re^on  of  his  body  where  greenhorn  has  read  lies  the 
heart.  Just  about  to  fire,  he  catches  the  eye  of  the  stag  winking 
futility  into  his  elaborate  aim.  His  blunderbuss  jerks  upward.  A 
shower  of  cut  leaves  floats  through  the  smoke,  from  a  tree  thirty 
feet  overhead.  Then,  with  a  mild-eyed,  melancholy  look  of  re- 
proachful contempt,  the  stag  turns  away,  and  wanders  off"  to  sleep 
in  quiet  coverts  far  within  the  wood.  He  has  fled,  while  for 
greenhorn  no  trophy  remains.  Antlers  have  nodded  to  the  sports- 
man ;  a  short  tail  has  disappeared  before  his  eyes ;  —  he  has  seen 
something,  but  has  nothing  to  show.  Whereupon  he  buys  a  couple 
of  pairs  of  ancient  weather-bleached  horns  from  some  colonist, 
and,  nailing  them  up  at  impossible  angles  on  the  wall  of  his  city 
den,  humbugs  brother-cockneys  with  tales  of  hunting,  and  has  for 
life  his  special  legend,  '  How  I  shot  my  first  deer  in  the  Adiron- 
dacks,'"  or  at  the  Androscoggin  Lakes,  as  the  case  may  be. 

Nowhere  in  this  country  will  the  people  afflicted  with  the 
"  camping  out "  fever  find  a  more  convenient  or  more  pleasant 
place  to  gratify  it  than  the  Androscoggin  Lake  Region.  Here 
four  of  the  indispensable  requisites  of  tent  life,  viz.,  good,  clear 
water,  plenty  of  firewood,  game,  and  fish,  are  always  to  be  found, 
and  the  cosey  little  nooks  and  charming  spots  on  the  shores  of  the 
lakes,  or  the  banks  of  the  streams,  each  and  all  commanding  some 
picturesque  view,  where  one  can  pitch  a  tent,  are  simply  innu- 
merable. 

If  one  could  be  always  sure  of  pleasant  weather  tent  life  would 
be  relieved  of  its  greatest  drawback.  But  we  cannot  control  the 
elements,  whatever  else  we  may  bring  under  subjection,  and 
"camping  out "  in  a  two  or  three  days'  storm  takes  the  good-na- 
ture out  of  the  most  pleasant  and  philosophic  individual.  It  is  far 
worse  where  there  are  ladies  in  the  party  than  if  it  is  composed 
entirely  of  gentlemen;  for,  although  the  sterner  sex  can  push 
about  in  the  wet  underbrusli,  and  go  fishing  in  the  rain,  the  ladies 
are  compelled  to  sit  moping  in  a  damp  tent,  and  wishing  for  noth- 
ing so  much  in  the  world  as  to  see  the  sun  shine  once  more. 

The  writer  has  tried  ' '  camping  out "  for  several  seasons ;  and 


THE   ANDEOSCOGGIN  LAKES.  19 

while  he  does  not  deny  that  there  is  a  great  deal  of  fun  and  enjoy- 
ment in  it,  still  he  liolds  to  the  opinion  that  it  is  better  and  cheaper 
to  stop  at  the  camps  about  the  lakes,  and  pay  $2.00  to  $2.50  per 
day  for  board,  and  be  sure  of  a  comfortable  bed  at  night,  and  a 
roof  over  your  head  in  a  storm.  The  accommodations  at  one  of 
these  camps  in  the  wilderness  are  so  different  from  what  you  meet 
with  at  home,  that  it  has  a  novelty  almost  equal  to  tent  life,  with 
none  of  its  disagreeable  features.  However  inspired  people  may 
be  with  life  in  the  woods,  they  soon  get  tired  of  washing  dishes, 
cooking  meals,  cutting  wood,  lugging  water,  and  the  various  rou- 
tine of  duty  that  is  inseparable  from  life  in  a  tent.  But  if  you 
must  "  camp  out,"  take  along  one  or  two  guides  to  do  the  work 
and  the  cooking,  and  then  you  are  free  from  care,  and  may  hope 
for  an  enjoyable  time  if  you  have  pleasant  weather.  On  the  fol- 
lowing page  wc  present  an  illustration  of  a  party  camping  out  on 
the  shore  of  Molechckkajidnk  Lake,  at  the  mouth  of  the  river. 
Our  artist  has  been  successful  in  making  a  spirited  sketch  of  the 
scene.  As  the  business  of  "  camping  out  "  is  new  to  many  who 
visit  the  Lake  Region,  we  give  in  the  following  chapter  some 
practical  hints  that  are  sure  to  be  of  service  to  the  green  woods- 
man. 

Black  flies,  midges,  and  mosquitoes,  are  to  be  met  with  in  the 
Androscoggin  Lake  Region  the  latter  part  of  June  and  the  first 
part  of  July.  By  taking  with  you  a  preparation  of  sweet-oil  and 
tar,  and  anointing  your  face  and  hands,  you  will  generally  escape 
their  importunities.  The  only  time  that  they  are  really  trouble- 
some is  on  a  very  still  day  or  night.  Where  there  is  any  wind  at 
all  they  will  not  trouble  you.  Persons  camping  out  generally 
build  up  a  "  smudge  "  at  night,  which  frees  them  from  the  attacks 
of  these  insects.  Ladies  visiting  the  lakes  in  "  fly-time  "  will  do 
well  to  wear  a  thick  veil  and  long  kid  gauntlets,  in  addition  to 
their  other  clothing.  There  is  only  about  a  month,  from  the  mid- 
dle of  June  to  the  middle  of  July,  that  flies  and  midges  are 
troublesome,  and  any  person  who  has  visited  the  lakes  once  can 
very  easily  keep  clear  of  them,  and  they  have  this  to  console  them, 
that  these  insects  in  Maine  are  not  near  as  plenty,  nor  half  so  vora- 
cious, as  they  are  in  the  Adirondack  Region,  neither  are  they  any 
more  troublesome  than  at  the  White  Mountains.  As  ladies  may 
not  think  that  tar  and  oil  would  improve  their  complexion  (although 


THE   ANDROSCOGGIN   LAKES.  21 

it  is  a  fact  that  it  makes  the  skin  soft  and  white  after  its  use)  we 
would  inform  them  that  oil  of  pennyroyal  and  sweet-oil,  properly 
mixed,  is  fully  as  good  as  the  other  preparation.  We  speak  from 
practical  experience,  having  frequently  used  it.  Any  druggist  can 
prepare  it  for  you,  and  the  cost  is  a  mere  trifle. 

Close  observation  during  a  ten  summers'  sojourn  in  the  Lake 
Region  warrants  us  in  asserting  that  the  black  fly  and  midge 
are  not  near  so  thick  now  as  they  were  in  former  years,  and  many 
of  the  regular  habitues  of  the  lakes  declare  tliat  they  are  grad- 
ually becoming  extinct.  House  flies  have  increased  largely  about 
the  lakes  in  the  past  five  years,  and  the  thicker  these  become  the 
faster  the  black  flies  diminish.  Those  who  pretend  to  know,  say 
that  the  two  species  of  flies  will  not  live  together.  But,  in  our 
opinion,  the  small  clearings  made  around  the  lake  shore  have  had 
their  effect  in  diminishing  the  number  of  flies. 

As  the  lakes  are  fifteen  hundred  feet  above  the  level  of  the 
sea  and  entirely  surrounded  by  mountains,  the  air  is  sharp  and 
bracing,  especially  in  June  and  September,  and  visitors  should 
always  take  an  extra  supply  of  clothing.  Warm  flannels  and 
extra  wraps  are  a  real  necessity,  and  will  save  one  a  great  deal 
of  discomfort. 


CHAPTER   II. 


i^ints  on  damping  ©ut. 


AVING  made  up  your  mind  to 
camp  out  during  your  vacation, 
decide  next  where  you  will  go ; 
and  then,  if  possible,  see  and  talk 
with  some  one  familiar  with  the 
place,  and  note  down  all  you 
learn  that  is  important.  If  you 
can  procure  a  Guide  Book  and 
Maps  that  cover  the  locality 
selected,  do  so  by  all  means,  as 
you  will  find  that  they  will  be 
worth  many  times  their  cost  to  you. 

August,  September,  and  October  are  the  months  for  camping 
out;  and,  if  you  wish  to  kill  large  game,  such  as  deer,  caribou,  or 
moose,  during  the  open  season,  which  in  Maine  and  New  Hamp- 
shire is  from  Oct.  1st  to  Dec.  Slst,  you  must  extend  your  trip 
into  October. 

Begin  to  make  up  and  collect  your  outfit  as  long  before  you 
intend  to  start  as  possible.  Don't  leave  everything  until  within 
the  last  few  days,  and  then  go  with  about  half  the  articles  you 
ought  to  have  with  you.  If  you  intend  to  spend  the  most  of 
your  time  in  the  wilderness,  away  from  hotels  and  villages,  you 
will  find  an  excellent  chance  to  utilize  all  your  old  clothing, 
only  have  the  garments  carefully  mended  and  patched.  One 
good  suit  to  wear  between  your  home  and  the  woods  will  be  suf- 
ficient. 

You  should  go  well  provided  with  under-clothing  in  the  shape 
of  heavy  woollen  shirts,  drawers,  and  stockings.  If  your  flesh  is 
tender,  and  flannels  are  apt  to  irritate  you,  buy  very  thin  cotton 
underclothing  to  wear  next  your  skin.     Carry  a  wide-rim  woollen 

(22) 


THE   ANDROSCOGGIN   LAKES.  23 

and  straw  hat.  You  will  find  both  convenient.  A  stout  woollen 
jacket  or  coat  will  be  all  you  need  for  an  outside  garment,  ex- 
cepting a  rubber  coat.  Be  sure  and  get  your  rubber  coat  large 
enough  to  slip  on  over  your  other  garments  easily.  Don't  try  to 
wear  hip  pants.  Such  action  will  generally  necessitate  the 
wearing  of  a  belt  also.  Use  suspenders;  they  are  every  way 
preferable. 

Shoes  are  good  to  wear  around  camp,  but  for  tramping  I  pre- 
fer stout,  long-legged,  leather  boots.  Two  or  three  times,  a  boot 
has  saved  me  from  a  sprained  ankle  when  falling  in  the  woods. 
You  should  purchase  heavy,  serviceable  shoes  and  boots,  and  oil 
them  well.  You  don't  want  drawing-room  trash.  A  pair  of  long- 
leg,  hip  rubber  boots  are  very  serviceable  when  fishing  and  wad- 
ing streams. 

Take  two  rubber  and  two  woollen  blankets  to  each  person  if 
your  party  does  not  number  over  four.  Above  that  number,  you 
can  discount  some  on  the  blankets  without  discomfiture.  Ee- 
member  that  toward  the  fall  the  nights  out-doors  are  chilly,  and 
you  had  better  have  a  few  more  blankets  than  you  actually  need, 
than  not  enough. 

Buy  your  provisions  (all  but  coffee  and  tea,  which  you  can 
procure  of  better  quality  at  home)  at  the  last  town  through 
which  you  pass.  The  charges  will  undoubtedly  be  a  little  higher 
than  at  home ;  but  you  will  make  it  up  by  the  saving  in  freight 
and  express,  and  the  loss  of  care  in  looking  after  so  many  things. 
What  you  do  carry  from  home  pack  in  bags  or  boxes,  with  straps 
or  handles  fastened  securely  on  the  ends,  as  the  railroads  will 
generally  check  such  packages.  If  the  baggage-master  raises 
any  objections,  a  tip  of  a  quarter,  or  a  few  cigars  (five-centers 
will  do,  as  he  won't  know  their  quality  until  he  tries  them)  will 
go  a  long  way  towards  making  him  see  the  matter  in  the  same 
light  that  you  do. 

Mark  your  baggage  if  possible.  If  not,  tie  or  nail  a  tag  on 
each  piece  with  your  name  and  place  of  destination  plainly 
written  upon  it.     Take  care  of  your  checks  after  you  get  them. 

Buy  round-trip  tickets  to  the  place  where  you  are  going,  if  you 
can;  if  not,  to  the  nearest  point.  You  may  get  "  broke"  while 
away,  and  you  will  feel  more  comfortable  to  know  that  you  have 
a  return  ticket  home.     Carefully  figure  up  your  expenses  from 


24  FARRAR'S  ILLUSTRATED   GUIDE  TO 

the  best  sources  of  information  at  your  command,  and  then  take 
at  least  fifty  per  cent,  more  money  than  you  think  you  will  need. 
Among  your  cash  have  plenty  of  small  change.  Attempting  to 
pay  for  small  articles  in  bills,  in  a  sparsely  settled  country,  will 
often  seriously  inconvenience  you.  Don't  carry  "  trade  dollars  " 
or  "  mutilated  coin."  Most  country  people  have  learned  by  this 
time  that  such  stuff  is  not  current. 

If  you  are  going  to  camp  anywhere  in  the  vicinity  of  a  farm, 
an  empty  bed-tick,  that  you  can  easily  carry  with  you,  and  get 
filled  with  straw  or  hay  on  your  arrival,  is  an  excellent  substitute 
for  a  better  bed.  Never  make  your  bed  on  the  bare  ground. 
Procure  a  few  boards  to  lay  down  first  if  possible ;  failing  in 
this,  cedar,  fir,  or  spruce  poles,  with  the  upper  side  flattened 
with  an  axe,  and  laid  close  together  will  answer  admirably. 

Don't  be  too  anxious  to  pay  country  people  more  than  they 
ask  for  milk,  butter,  eggs,  etc. ;  it  is  establishing  a  bad  precedent, 
and  you  will  generally  find  that  their  charge  is  all  the  things  are 
worth  in  that  locality,  and  sometimes  more,  and  after  you  leave 
they  will  set  you  down  as  a  fool  with  more  money  than  brains. 

If  you  intend  to  make  any  excursions  from  camp  that  will 
necessitate  your  being  away  over  night,  a  fair-sized  leather 
knapsack,  with  broad  straps  to  go  over  the  shoulders,  will  be  a 
very  convenient  article  to  have  with  you.  If  you  make  any 
such  excursions,  don't  load  yourself  down  too  heavily.  Twenty 
pounds  at  the  start  will  seem  to  be  fifty,  after  you  have  carried 
it  three  hours.  You  go  into  the  woods  for  rest  and  recreation, 
not  to  make  a  pack-horse  of  yourself.  If  there  are  several  in 
your  party,  don't  have  any  senseless  rivalrj-  as  to  who  can  carry 
the  heaviest  pack.  You  will  find  that  any  load  you  start  with 
will  be  heavy  enough  after  tramping  all  day. 

Stick  to  the  lakes,  ponds,  and  rivers  as  much  as  possible,  for 
it  is  a  great  deal  easier  to  get  around  in  a  boat  than  to  tramp 
through  the  woods.  When  in  a  boat  use  the  utmost  precaution, 
especially  if  you  can't  swim.  If  you  can,  the  upsetting  of  your 
boat,  and  the  consequent  loss  or  spoiling  of  the  greater  part  of 
your  things,  is  a  serious  misfortune.  Dan't  try  to  see  how  far 
you  can  tip  the  boat  down  on  one  side  without  capsizing  it. 

If  you  are  a  good  swimmer,  and  other  members  of  your  party 
are  not,  don't  do  anything  when  you  are  out  boating  with  them. 


THE   ANDROSCOGGIN   LAKES. 


25 


to  cause  them  alarm.     It  spoils  their  pleasure,  and  is  foolish  and 
cowardly  on  your  part. 

When  you  leave  your  boat  be  careful  to  fasten  it  securely,  or 
take  it  so  far  out  of  water,  as  will  remove  all  liability  of  its 
getting  loose.  There  are  times  when  you  may  be  put  to  great 
inconvenience,  or  placed  in  positive  danger  by  your  boat  going 
adrift. 

Don't  try  to  run  dangerous  rapids  without  ha^yng  had  previous 
experience  in  such  navigation.  It  is  more  than  probable  that 
you  will  meet  with  an  accident  if  you  make  the  attempt.  In 
ascending  rapids,  it 
is  generally  easier 
to  pole  lip,  than  to 
paddle,  or  row.  If 
you  don't  carry  a 
regular  "setting 
pole,"  a  light 
spruce  pole,  peel- 
ed, eight  or  ten 
feet  long,  with  one 
end  sharpened  to  a 
point,  to  stick  into 
the  bottom  of  the 
river,  is  a  very 
good  substitute. 
Poling  is  quite  a 
knack ;  but  you 
can  soon  acquire  it  from  practice.  Your  greatest  difficulty  will 
be  in  keeping  the  bow  of  your  boat  straight  up  stream. 

In  the  Androscoggin  Lakes  Region  it  is  not  absolutely 
necessary  for  you  to  take  a  guide.  If  you  do,  however,  one  to 
a  party  of  four  is  sufficient ;  and  hire  the  best  you  can  get,  with- 
out regard  to  price. 

Don't  carry  a  tent.  It  is  a  useless  incumbrance.  All  through 
the  wilderness  region  of  Maine  and  New  Hampshire,  hotel  camps, 
logging,  or  hunters'  camps  may  be  found,  furnishing  you  shelter 
and  lodging.  At  the  hotels,  of  course,  you  will  have  to  pay,  but 
the  hunter's  and  logging  camps  are  mostly  empty  until  the  last 
of  October,  and  are  open  to  any  one  who  chooses  to  use  them. 


■r-./-^--..- 


Fig. 


1.    Frame  or  Camp. 


20 


FAKRAR'S   ILLUSTRATED   GUIDE    TO 


Failing  to  utilize   these,  build   a   bough  camp  in  the   following 
manner :  — 

Select  a  dry  piece  of  ground  cm  some  little  hillock  or  knoll, 
and  plan  the  size  of  your  camp  to  suit  your  party,  not  forgetting 
to  have  room  to  place  your  provisions  under  cover.  Have  an 
eye  to  water  and  wood,  and  don't  locate  farther  from  them  than 
you  can  help. 

Now  cut  two  crotched  maples,  A  (see  Fig.  1),  about  eight 
feet  long,  sharpen  an  end  of  each,  and  drive  tlie  picked  ends  a 
foot  or  more  into  the  ground,  ten  feet  apart,  if  for  a  party  of 

four.  Then  cut  an- 
other maple,  B, 
about  three  inches 
in  diameter,  and  lay 
it  on  the  top  of  your 
crotched  posts.  Now 
procure  eight  more 
maple  poles,  C  (any 
other  kind  of  wood 
will  answer  if  there 
is  no  maple  in  the 
vicinity,  only  your 
poles  must  be 
straight),  about  ten 
feet  long,  and  sharp- 
Fig.  2.  Roof  akd  End.  en  an  end  of  each. 
Place  the  blunt  ends  on  the  horizontal  pole,  extending  over  about 
six  inches,  and  bring  the  picked  ends  down  to  the  ground,  and 
imbed  them  firmly.  There  should  be  a  little  slaught  or  hole  cut 
in  the  horizontal  pole  for  these  rafters  to  lay  in,  and  they 
should  be  placed  about  a  foot  apart.  Marline,  small  roots,  or 
twigs,  should  be  used  to  fasten  the  blunt  ends  of  the  rafters  to 
the  horizontal  pole.  Now  cut  some  maple  or  other  limbs,  D, 
that  are  straight  and  a  little  flexible,  and  place  them  across  your 
rafters,  beginning  at  the  top,  about  a  foot  from  the  horizontal 
pole,  and  continuing  at  regular  distances  until  you  reach  the 
ground.  Weave  them  over  and  under  the  rafters,  and  this  will 
be  suflScient  to  keep  them  in  place. 
If  there  is  plenty  of  cedar  in  the  vicinity  of  your  camp,  cut 


THE   ANDROSCOGGIN  LAKES. 


27 


down  a  tree  or  two,  trim  the  trunks,  and  cut  them  into  lengths  of 
about  eight  feet ;  split  these  into  pieces  about  half  an  inch  thick, 
and  lay  them  lengthwise,  flat  on  your  roof.  Put  the  first  course 
as  near  together  as  you  can,  and  cover  that  by  a  second,  over- 
lapping all  cracks ;  then  spread  a  couple  of  your  rubber  blankets 
over  your  cedar-splits,  and  tie  them  down,  to  prevent  their 
blowing  away,  and  you  will  have  a  tight  roof.  If  you  can't  get 
the  cedar-splits,  cover  with  birch-bark  or  spruce-boughs  first 
(see  Fig.  2),  and  then  the  blankets.  If  you  use  spruce-boughs, 
lay  them  carefully,  with  the  small  ends  downwards.  When  your 
roof  is  covered  in, 
roll  a  log,  six  or 
eight  inches  thick, 
to  the  back  of  your 
camp,  and  let  it 
bear  on  the  foot  of 
the  rafters.  It  will 
help  keep  them  in 
place,  and  stiffen 
the  whole  structure. 

To  close  up  the 
two  ends,  cut  poles 
or  "  cedar -splits," 
and  stand  them  up 
close  together  (see 
Fig.  2),  beginning 
at  the  back  side  of  the  camp,  and  continuing  to  the  front.  The 
lower  end  of  these  should  be  sharpened  and  set  into  the  ground 
a  little.  When  each  end  is  closed  in,  run  another  rafter  outside 
of  them,  from  the  front  pole  to  the  ground,  to  keep  tliera  in 
place.  A  pile  of  brush  at  each  end  will  also  help  keep  out  the 
rain. 

The  front  can  be  left  entirely  open  to  the  weather  (see  Fig.  3), 
and  this  is  more  desirable  when  you  have  rubber  blankets  to 
hang  up  in  case  of  a  storm,  or  two  or  three  feet  of  each  end  of 
the  front  may  be  closed  up,  as  the  ends  were,  leaving  a  space  of 
three  or  four  feet  wide  in  the  middle  for  an  entrance,  which  can 
be  covered  during  rain  by  a  rubber  blanket. 

Make  the  floor  of  boards  if  possible,  and  have  it  slant  a  little 


W-/^., 


Fig.  3.    Camp  Complete. 


28 


FARRAR'S  ILLUSTRATED   GUIDE  TO 


towards  the  front.  If  you  can't  procure  boards,  cut  cedar,  or 
some  other  trees  into  proper  lengths,  about  three  or  four  inches 
in  diameter.  Hew  one  side  of  them  flat,  and  lay  them  close 
together  on  the  ground,  the  round  side  down.  For  bedding,  use 
small  cedar  limbs,  if  you  can  get  them ;  if  not  hemlock,  or 
spruce.  Don't  throw  in  limbs  the  size  of  cord  wood ;  such  sticks 
will  not  improve  your  rest  any  at  night.  Over  the  boughs  spread 
first  rubber  blankets,  then  woollen  ones.  Have  one  woollen 
blanket  beneath  you,  and  the  rest  over  you.  In  damp  or  rainy 
weather,  spread  a  rubber  blanket  outside  of  your  woollen  ones. 

When  you  retire 
at  night,  leave  a 
good,  large  fire 
burning  in  front  of 
your  camp  (see  Fig. 
3),  and  always  sleep 
feet  to  the  fire.  A 
hammock  is  a  nice 
thing  to  sleep  in  dur- 
ing pleasant  weath- 
er. Include  one  in 
your  equipment,  by 
all  means. 

Camp     building 
calls  for  more   ex- 
Pig.  4.    Camp  PuRNrruRB.  ercise  of  ingenuity 
than  any  other  part  of  camping  out.     But  you  will  be  surprised 
to  see  how  much  can  be  done  with  nothing  but  an  axe  and  a 
willing  pair  of  hands. 

A  table  and  benches  for  camp  use  may  be  made  as  follows 
(see  Fig.  4)  :  — 

Cut  four  short,  crotched  sticks,  about  the  right  height  for  your 
table ;  sharpen  one  end  of  each  and  drive  them  into  the  ground, 
about  six  feet  apart  one  way,  and  two  the  other.  Put  a  short 
stick  across  the  ends  from  crotch  to  crotch,  and  then  lay  poles 
lengthwise  from  one  bearing  to  the  other.  Secure  the  ends  of 
each  with  withes  or  marline.  A  bench  can  be  constructed  the 
same  way,  only  make  it  lower,  and  have  three  supports  for  the 
horizontal  poles  instead  of  two.     The  cuts  shown  in  the  book 


THP]   ANDROSCOGGIN   LAKES. 


29 


give  our  ideas  on  camps,  tables,  and  benches,  and  can  be  built  by 
any  one  possessed  of  an  ordinary  amount  of  common-sense. 

Never  camp  out  alone.  There  is  no  fun  in  it;  and,  if  taken 
suddenly  sick,  real  danger.  Tm'o,  three,  or  four,  with  guides 
ad  libitum,  make  the  most  successful  parties.  Each  person  for 
a  larger  party  needs  to  be  very  carefully  selected,  with  an  idea 
to  the  "  fitness  of  tilings,"  for  nowhere  will  all  that  is  disagree- 
able in  a  man,  so  soon  be  developed  as  in  the  woods  during 
stormy  weather. 

Don't  try  to  shirk  your  share  of  the  work, 
never  forget  it,  and 


Your  friends  will 


<~3       ^        '       ,4 


will  twit  you  of  it 
as  long  as  you  live. 

For  gunning,  car- 
ry a  double-barrel 
breech-loading  shot- 
gun or  rifle.  Have 
revolvers  conspicu- 
ous by  their  ah-  [ 
sence ;  for  they  are 
a  dangerous  nui-  - 
sance.  If  you  take 
one  you  will  proba- 
bly shoot  yourself 
or  somebody  else 
with  it  before  your 
trip  is  over.  Let  some  of  your  party  carry  rifles,  others  double- 
barrel  shot-guns.  If  there  is  to  be  only  one  fire-arm  in  the  party 
give  a  gun  the  preference,  and  take  plenty  of  buck-shot. 

If  you  don't  intend  to  hire  a  guide,  and  understand  nothing  of 
cookery,  take  a  few  lessons  at  home  from  your  wife,  mother,  or 
sister,  in  simple  cooking,  and  learn  what  you  do  learn,  thoroughly. 
Then  buy  a  common,  cheap  cook-book,  and  take  it  along  with 
you.     It  will  be  handy  to  have  in  tlie  camp. 

In  cooking,  a  slack  fire  with  plenty  of  live  coals  is  better  than 
a  roaring  fire  with  a  great  deal  of  wood  (see  Fig.  5).  If  you 
set  j'our  frying-pan  or  coffee-pot  on  the  fire,  watch  them  that  they 
don't  tip  over.  Wash  your  dishes  at  the  close  of  every  meal  in 
hot  water,  and  don't  forget  to  put  a  little  soap  in  the  water ;  It 


Fig.  5.    Camp  Cookery. 


30            FARRAR'S  ILLUSTRATED 

GUIDE  TO 

is  a  slovenly  trick  to  let  them  lay  over  dirty.     Two  forked  sticks 

drove  into  the  ground  at  each  side  of  your  fire,  with  a  green 

limb  across,  is  a  good  thing  to  hang  your  pots  and  kettles  on 

when  stewing  or  boi 

ing  anything. 

To  prepare  trout  for  cooking,  split  them  along  the  belly  and 

remove  their  entrails;   then  cut  oflf  their  fins,  tails,  and  heads 

and  wash  thoroughlj 

^     Chub  are  to  be  treated  in  the  same  man- 

ner,  only  they  must  first  be  well  scraped 

to  remove  their  scales. 

Pickerel  are  prepared  in  the  same  manner  as  trout. 

Below  we  give  a  list  of  articles,  any  of  which  will  be  useful  to 

a  party  camping  out. 

Read  it  over    care 

fully,  and  take  as  few 

things  as  possible. 

Axe, 

Guide-book, 

Potatoes,  in  bag. 

Bacon  or  ham, 

Hammers, 

Postal-cards, 

Bread-pan, 

Hard-tack, 

Pocket  drinking-cup, 

Bean-kettle,  iron. 

Hatchet, 

Royal  baking-powder, 

Beans,  in  bag, 

Hammock, 

Rope, 

Butter,  in  bread-box 

,  Iron  pot,  for  stews, 

Rubber  coat. 

Blankets,  woollen. 

Jamaica  Ginger, 

Rubber  boots, 

Blankets,  rubber. 

Knives,  pocket  and 

Reading  matter. 

Buttons,  pant  and 

sheath. 

Rice, 

shirt. 

Knives,  table  and 

Raisins, 

Bait-box,  with  strap 

butcher. 

Salt, 

Crackers, 

Knapsack, 

Salt  fish. 

Canned  goods, 

Lard, 

Salt  pork. 

Condensed  milk, 

Lemons, 

Saw, 

Coffee, 

Lead-pencil, 

Slippers, 

Coffee-pot, 

Maps, 

Soap, 

Comb, 

Matches, 

Sugar, 

Compass, 

Match-safe,  air-tight 

,  Sticking-plaster, 

Court-plaster, 

Marline, 

Thread, 

Cook-book, 

Meal,  in  bag. 

Twine, 

Candles, 

Molasses, 

Tooth-brush, 

Candlestick, 

Monkey-wrench, 

Towels, 

Dish-towels, 

Mosquito-netting, 

Tea, 

Dish-cloth, 

Nails, 

Tin  baker, 

Diary, 

Needles, 

Teaspoons, 

Envelopes, 

Pails, 

Tablespoons, 

Fishing-tackle, 

Paper  collars. 

Tin  dippers. 

Flour, 

Pepper, 

Tin  plates. 

Field-glass, 

Powdered  mustard, 

Tin  pails. 

Frying  pan, 

Pickles, 

"Vinegar, 

Forks, 

Pins, 

"Wash-basin, 

Figs, 

Portfolio, 

Writing  paper. 

Fly  preparation. 

Postage-stamps, 

THE   ANDROSCOGGIN  LAKES.  31 

Throw  all  your  swill  and  refuse  into  the  water ;  or,  if  you  are 
encamped  for  any  length  of  time  away  from  rivers,  ponds,  or 
lakes,  narry  it  to  some  distance  before  you  throw  it  away; 
or,  what  is  better  still,  bury  it,  if  the  ground  will  permit.  Swill 
around  a  camp  will  attract  flies  and  other  insects. 

If  troubled  by  black  flies,  mosquitoes,  minges,  or  other  insects, 
build  a  smudge  in  this  way :  Start  a  good  fire,  and  when  well 
agoing  cover  with  green  grass,  moss,  leaves,  or  dirt,  thereby 
making  a  dense  smoke.  If  you  have  an  old  iron  kettle  to  build 
•  it  in  it  IS  much  better,  as  you  can  move  it  about  then  if  the 
wind  changes. 

A  piece  of  clothes-line  twenty  or  thirty  feet  long,  stretched 
between  two  trees,  is  handy  to  hang  wet  things  on  when  you  wish 
to  dry  them.  Have  it  far  enough  from  your  fire  to  keep  the 
articles  out  of  the  smoke. 

Keep  your  provisions,  anything  that  mice  or  ants  would  hurt, 
^n  tight  boxes,  bags,  or  firkins.  The  woods  are  full  of  field- 
mice  and  ants,  and  they  will  find  your  camp  as  soon  as  you  do. 
Rainy  days  cover  your  stores  with  rubber  blankets.  If  you  have 
ham,  or  fresh  meat,  or  venison,  among  your  stores,  keep  them 
tightly  wrapped  up  in  cloths,  and  hang  up  in  a  cool  place,  or  they 
will  soon  become  fly-blown,  and  spoil. 

You  will  find  plenty  of  suitable  spots  for  camping  all  through 
the  lake  region;  and,  whenever  you  "  break  camp,"  that  is  to  say, 
move  from  one  spot  to  another,  don't  fail  to  extinguish  your  fire, 
no  matter  how  much  trouble  it  puts  you  to.  A  fire  left  by  a 
careless  camper  before  now  has  been  the  means  of  destroying 
thousands  of  dollars  worth  of  timber.  A  conflagration  in  the 
woods  is  no  laughing  matter;  and,  by  the  present  laws,  people  of 
means  can  be  held  liable  for  damages  in  such  cases,  or,  failing 
to  have  property,  they  may  be  imprisoned. 

In  moving  about  from  one  place  to  another,  don't  travel  too 
late.  Select  your  camping  site,  at  least,  two  hours  before 
dark,  and  be  sure  and  cut  plenty  of  firewood. 

Hygienic  Notes. 

We  quote  the  following  from  a  valuable  work  entitled  "  Field 
Ornithology,"  by  Dr.  Elliott  Coues,  U.S.A.,  and  it  is  well  worth 


32  FARRAR'S  ILLUSTRATED  GUIDE. 

the  perusal  of  the  person  intending  to  camp  out  as  well  as  the 
••  stay-at-homes  " :  — 

"  Always  carry  a  loaded  gun  at  half-cock  unless  you  are  about 
to  shoot.  Unless  the  lock  fail,  accidental  discharge  is  impossible, 
except  under  these  circumstances  :  a,  a  direct  blow  on  the  nipple 
or  pin ;  h,  catching  of  both  hammer  and  trigger  simultaneously, 
drawing  back  of  the  former  and  its  release  whilst  the  trigger  is 
still  held,  —  the  chances  against  which  are  simply  incalculable. 
Full-cock,  ticklish  as  it  seems,  is  safer  than  no-cock,  when  a  tap 
on  the  hammer  or  even  the  heel-plate,  or  a  slight  catch  and  re- 
lease of  the  hammer,  may  cause  discharge.  Never  let  the  muzzle 
of  a  loaded  gun  point  toward  your  own  person  for  a  single  instant. 
Get  your  gun  over  fences  or  into  boats  or  carriages  before  you 
get  over  or  in  yourself,  or  at  any  rate  no  later.  Remove  caps  or 
cartridges  on  entering  a  house.  Never  aim  a  gun,  loaded  or  not, 
at  any  object  unless  you  mean  to  press  the  trigger.  Never  put 
a  loaded  gun  away  long  enough  to  forget  whether  it  is  loaded  or 
not.  Never  leave  a  loaded  gun  to  be  found  by  others  under  cir- 
cumstances reasonably  presupposing  it  to  be  unloaded.  Never 
put  a  gun  where  it  can  be  knocked  down  by  a  dog  or  a  child. 
Never  forget  that,  though  a  gunning  accident  may  be  sometimes 
interpretable  (from  a  certain  stand-point)  as  a  "  dispensation  of 
Providence,"  such  are  dispensed  oftenest  to  the  careless. 

*'  The  secret  of  safe  climbing  is  never  to  relax  one  hold  until 
another  is  secured ;  it  is  in  spirit  equally  applicable  to  scrambling 
over  rocks,  —  a  particularly  difficult  thing  to  do  safely  with  a  loaded 
gun.  Test  rotten,  slippery,  or  otherwise  suspicious  holds  before 
trusting  them.  In  lifting  the  body  up  anywhere  keep  the  month 
shut,  breathe  through  the  nostrils,  and  go  slowly. 

' '  In  swimming  waste  no  strength  unnecessarily  in  trying  to 
stem  a  current ;  yield  partly,  and  land  obliquely  lower  down ;  if 
exhausted,  float,  —  the  slightest  motion  of  the  hands  will  ordinarily 
keep  the  face  above  water ;  and  in  any  event  keep  your  wits  col- 
lected. In  fording  deeply  a  heavy  stone  in  the  hands  [above 
water]  will  strengthen  your  position.  Never  sail  a  boat  experi- 
mentally ;  if  you  are  no  sailor,  take  one  with  you  or  stay  on  land. 

"In  crossing  a  high,  narrow  foot-path,  never  look  lower  than 
your  feet ;  the  muscles  will  work  true,  if  not  confused  with  falter- 
ing instructions  from  a  giddy  brain.     On  soft  ground  see  what,  if 


34  FARRAR'S  ILLUSTRATED   GUIDE  TO 

anything,  has  preceded  you;  large  hoof-marks  generally  mean 
that  the  way  is  safe ;  if  none  are  found,  inquire  for  yourself  be- 
fore going  on.  Quicksand  is  the  most  treacherous,  because  far 
more  dangerous  than  it  looks ;  but  I  have  8(*en  a  mule's  ears 
finally  disappear  in  genuine  mud. 

"  Cattle-paths,  however  erratic,  commonly  prove  the  surest  way 
out  of  a  diflScult  place,  whether  of  uncertain  footing  or  dense 
undergrowth. 

"Unguarded  exposure  in  malarious  regions  usually  entails 
sickness,  often  preventable,  however,  by  due  precautions.  It  is 
worth  knowing,  in  the  first  place,  that  miasmatic  poison  is  most 
powerful  between  sunset  and  sunrise, — more  exactly  from  the 
damp  of  the  evening  until  night  vapors  are  dissipated ;  we  may  be 
out  in  the  daytime  with  comparative  impunity,  where  to  pass  a 
night  would  be  almost  certain  disease.  If  forced  to  camp  out, 
seek  the  highest  and  driest  spot;  put  a  good  fire  on  the  swamp 
side,  and  also,  if  possible,  let  trees  intervene.  Never  go  out  on 
an  empty  stomach;  just  a  cup  of  coffee  and  a  crust  may  make  a 
decided  difference.  Meet  the  earliest  unfavorable  symptoms  with 
quinine,  —  I  should  rather  say,  if  unacclimated,  anticipate  them 
with  this  invaluable  agent.  Endeavor  to  maintain  high  health  of 
all  functions  by  the  natural  means  of  regularity  and  temperance 
in  diet,  exercise,  and  repose. 

Taking  Cold. 
"  This  vague  *  household  word'  indicates  one  or  more  of  a  long 
varied  train  of  unpleasant  affections,  nearly  always  traceable  to 
one  or  the  other  of  only  two  causes  :  sudden  change  of  tempera- 
ture, and  unequal  distribution  of  temperature.  No  extremes  of 
heat  or  cold  can  alone  effect  this  result ;  persons  frozen  to  death 
do  not '  take  cold '  during  the  process.  But  if  a  part  of  the  body 
be  rapidly  cooled,  as  by  evaporation  from  a  wet  article  of  clothing, 
or  by  sitting  in  a  draught  of  air,  the  rest  of  the  body  remaining  at 
an  ordinary  temperature ;  or  if  the  temperature  of  the  whole  be 
suddenly  changed  by  going,  out  into  the  cold,  or,  especially,  by 
coming  into  a  warm  room,  there  is  much  liability  of  trouble. 
There  is  an  old  saying,  — 

" '  When  the  tii  oomes  throngli  •  hole, 
Say  your  prayers  to  save  your  aoul;  * 


THE  ANDROSCOGGIN  LAKES.  35 

and  I  should  think  almost  any  one  could  get  a  '  cold '  with  a 
spoonful  of  water  on  the  wrist  held  to  a  key-hole.  Singular  as  it 
may  seem,  sudden  warming  when  cold  is  more  dangerous  than 
the  reverse ;  every  one  has  noticed  how  soon  the  handkerchief  is 
required  on  entering  a  heated  room  on  a  cold  day.  Frost-bite  is 
an  extreme  illustration  of  this.  As  the  Irishman  said  on  picking 
himself  up,  it  was  not  the  fall,  but  stopping  so  quickly,  that  hurt 
him ;  it  is  not  the  lowering  of  the  temperature  to  the  freezing- 
point,  but  its  subsequent  elevation,  that  devitalizes  the  tissue. 
This  is  why  rubbing  with  snow,  or  bathing  in  cold  water,  is  re- 
quired to  restore  safely  a  frozen  part;  the  arrested  circulation 
must  be  very  gradually  reestablished,  or  inflammation,  perhajjs 
mortification,  ensues. 

"  General  precautions  against  taking  cold  are  almost  self- 
evident,  in  this  light.  Tliere  is  ordinarily  little  if  any  danger 
to  be  apprehended  from  wet  clothes  so  long  as  exercise  is  kept 
up ;  for  the  '  glow '  about  compensates  for  the  extra  cooling  by 
evaporation.  Nor  is  a  complete  drenching  more  likely  to  be 
injurious  than  wetting  of  one  part.  But  never  sit  still  wet;  and 
in  changing,  rub  the  body  dry.  There  is  a  general  tendency, 
springing  from  fatigue,  indolence,  or  indifference,  to  neglect 
damp  feet, — that  is  to  say,  to  dry  them  by  the  fire ;  but  this  process 
is  tedious  and  uncertain.  I  would  say  especially,  '  Off  with  muddy 
boots  and  sodden  socks  at  once ; '  dry  stockings  and  slippers,  after 
a  hunt,  may  make  just  the  difference  of  your  being  able  to  go  out 
again  or  never. 

"  Take  care  never  to  check  perspiration.  During  this  process 
the  body  is  in  a  somewhat  critical  condition,  and  sudden  arrest  of 
the  function  may  result  disastrously,  even  fatally.  One  part 
of  the  business  of  perspiration  is  to  equalize  bodily  temperature, 
and  it  must  not  be  interfered  with.  The  secret  of  much  that 
is  to  be  said  about  bathing  when  heated  lies  here.  A  person 
overheated,  panting  it  may  be,  with  throbbing  temples  and  a 
dry  skin,  is  in  danger  partly  because  the  natural  cooling  by 
evaporation  from  the  skin  is  denied,  and  this  condition  is  some- 
times not  far  from  a  '  sunstroke.'  Under  these  circumstances 
a  person  of  fairly  good  constitution  may  plunge  into  the  water 
with  impunity,  —  even  with  benefit.  But,  if  the  body  be  al- 
ready cooling  by  sweating,  rapid  abstraction  of  heat  from  the 


.^T 


THE   ANDROSCOGGIN   LAl^ES.  37 

surface  may  cause  internal  congestion,  never  unattended  with 
danger. 

"  Drinking  ice-water  ofifers  a  somewhat  parallel  case;  even  on 
stooping  to  drink  at  the  brook,  when  flushed  with  heat,  it  is  well 
to  bathe  the  face  and  hands  first,  and  to  taste  the  water  before  a 
full  draught.  It  is  a  well-known  excellent  rule,  not  to  bathe 
immediately  after  a  full  meal ;  because  during  digestion  the 
organs  concerned  are  comparatively  engorged,  and  any  sudden 
disturbance  of  the  circulation  may  be  disastrous. 

"  The  imperative  necessity  of  resisting  drowsiness  under 
extreme  cold  requires  no  comment. 

"  In  walking  under  a  hot  sun  the  head  may  be  sensibly  pro- 
tected by  green  leaves  or  grass  in  the  hat ;  they  may  be  advan- 
tageously moistened,  but  not  enough  to  drip  about  the  ears.  Under 
such  circumstances  the  slightest  giddiness,  dimness  of  sight,  or 
confusion  of  ideas,  should  be  taken  as  a  warning  of  possible  sun- 
stroke, instantly  demanding  rest,  and  shelter  if  practicable. 

"  Hunger  and  fatigue  are  more  closely  related  than  they  might 
seem  to  be ;  one  is  a  sign  that  the  fuel  is  out,  and  the  other  asks 
for  it.  Extreme  fatigue,  indeed,  destroys  appetite ;  this  simply 
means,  temporary  incapacity  for  digestion.  But  even  far  short 
of  this,  food  is  more  easily  digested  and  better  relished  after  a 
little  preparation  of  the  furnace.  On  coming  home  tired  it  is 
much  better  to  make  a  leisurely  and  reasonably  nice  toilet  than 
to  eat  at  once,  or  to  lie  still  thinking  how  tired  you  are.  After  a 
change  and  a  wash  you  will  feel  like  a  '  new  man,'  and  go  to 
table  in  capital  state.  Whatever  dietetic  irregularities  a  high 
state  of  civilization  may  demand  or  render  practicable,  a  normally 
healthy  person  is  inconvenienced  almost  as  soon  as  his  regular 
meal-time  passes  without  food;  and  few  can  work  comfortably  or 
profitably  fasting  over  six  or  eight  hours.  Eat  before  starting ;  if 
for  a  day's  tramp,  take  a  lunch ;  the  most  frugal  meal  will  appease 
if  it  do  not  satisfy  hunger,  and  so  postpone  its  urgency.  As  a 
small  scrap  of  practical  wisdom,  I  would  add,  keep  the  remnants 
of  the  lunch,  if  there  are  any;  for  you  cannot  always  be  sure  of 
getting  in  to  supper. 

"When  cold,  fatigued,  depressed  in  mind,  and  on  other  occa- 
sions, you  may  feel  inclined  to  resort  to  artificial  stimulus.  Re- 
specting this  many-sided  theme  I  have  a  few  words  to  offer  of 


38         farraH'S  illustrated  guide  to 

direct  bearing.  It  should  be  clearly  understood,  in  the  first 
place,  that  a  stimulant  confers  no  strength  whatever;  it  simply 
calls  the  powers  that  be  into  increased  action  at  their  own  expense. 
Seeking  real  strength  in  stimulus  is  as  wise  as  an  attempt  to  lift 
yourself  up  by  the  boot-straps.  You  may  gather  yourself  to  leap 
the  ditch  and  you  clear  it;  but  no  such  muscular  energy  can  be 
sustained;  exhaustion  speedily  renders  further  expenditure  im- 
possible. But  now,  suppose  a  very  powerful  mental  impression 
be  made,  say  the  circumstance  of  a  succession  of  ditches  in  front, 
and  a  mad  dog  behind,  if  the  stimulus  of  terror  be  suflBciently 
strong  you  may  leap  on  till  you  drop  senseless.  Alcoholic  stimu- 
lus is  a  parallel  case,  and  is  not  seldom  pushed  to  the  same  ex- 
treme. Under  its  influence  you  never  can  tell  when  you  are  tired ; 
the  expenditure  goes  on,  indeed,  with  unnatural  rapidity,  only  it 
is  not  felt  at  the  time ;  but  the  upshot  is,  you  have  all  the  original 
fatigue  to  endure  and  to  recover  from,  plus  the  fatigue  resulting 
from  over-excitation  of  the  system.  Taken  as  a  fortification 
against  cold,  alcohol  is  as  unsatisfactory  as  a  remedy  for  fatigue. 
Insensibility  to  cold  does  not  imply  protection.  The  fact  is,  the 
exposure  is  greater  than  before ;  the  circulation  and  respiration 
being  hurried,  the  waste  is  greater,  and  as  sound  fuel  cannot  be 
immediately  supplied,  the  temperature  of  the  body  is  soon  lowered. 
The  transient  warmth  and  glow  over,  the  system  has  both  cold 
and  depression  to  endure;  there  is  no  use  in  borrowing  from 
yourself  and  fancying  you  are  richer. 

' '  Secondly,  the  value  of  any  stimulus  (except  in  a  few  exi- 
gencies of  disease  or  injury)  is  in  proportion,  not  to  the  intensity, 
but  to  the  equableness  and  durability  of  its  effect.  This  is  one 
reason  why  tea,  coffee,  and  articles  of  corresponding  qualities, 
are  preferable  to  alcoholic  drinks.  They  work  so  smoothly  that 
their  effect  is  often  unnoticed,  and  they  '  stay  by '  well.  The 
friction  of  alcohol  is  tremendous  in  comparison.  A  glass  of  grog 
may  help  a  veteran  over  the  fence ;  but  no  one,  young  or  old,  can 
shoot  all  day  on  whiskey. 

"  Thirdly,  undue  excitation  of  any  physical  function  is  followed 
by  corresponding  depression,  on  the  simple  principle  that  action 
and  reaction  are  equal ;  and  the  balance  of  health  turns  too  easily 
to  be  wilfully  disturbed.  Stimulation  is  a  draft  upon  vital  capital, 
when  interest  alone  should  suffice.     It  may  be  needed  at  times  to 


THE  ANDROSCOGGIN  LAKES.  39 

bridge  a  chasm ;  but  habitual  living  beyond  vital  income  infallibly 
entails  bankruptcy  in  health.  The  use  of  alcohol  in  health  seems 
practically  restricted  to  purposes  of  sensuous  gratification  on  the 
part  of  those  prepared  to  pay  a  round  price  for  this  luxury.  The 
three  golden  rules  here  are,  Never  drink  before  breakfast; 
never  drink  alone ;  and  never  drink  bad  liquor.  Their  observance 
may  make  even  the  abuse  of  alcohol  tolerable.  Serious  objec- 
tions for  a  naturalist,  at  least,  are  that  science,  viewed  through  a 
glass,  seems  distant  and  uncertain,  while  the  joys  of  rum  are  im- 
mediate and  unquestionable ;  and  that  intemperance,  being  an 
attempt  to  defy  certain  physical  laws,  is  therefore  eminently  un- 
scientific." 

In  this  connection  we  take  the  following  from  a  very  interest- 
ing little  work,  by  John  M.  Gould,  entitled  "  How  to  Camp  Out." 

"If  troubled  by  costiveness,  eat  laxative  foods  on  those  days, 
—  figs  are  especially  good,  —  and  try  not  to  work  too  liard.  Do 
not  dose  with  medicines,  nor  take  alcoholic  stimulants.  Physic 
and  alcohol  may  give  a  temporary  relief,  but  they  will  leave  you 
in  bad  condition. 

"  Diarrhoea  may  result  from  over-work  and  gluttony  combined, 
and  from  eating  indigestible  or  uncooked  food,  and  from  imper- 
fect protection  of  the  stomach.  '  Remove  the  cause,  and  the 
effect  will  cease.'  A  flannel  bandage  six  to  twelve  inches  wide, 
worn  around  the  stomach,  is  good  as  a  preventive  and  cure. 

"The  same  causes  may  produce  cholera-morbus ;  symptoms, 
violent  vomiting  and  purging,  faintness,  and  spasms  in  the  arms 
and  limbs.  Unless  accompanied  with  cramp  (which  is  not  usual), 
nature  will  work  its  own  cure.  Give  warm  drinks,  if  you  have 
them.  Do  not  get  frightened ;  but  keep  the  patient  warm,  and 
well  protected  from  a  draught  of  air. 

' '  In  all  cases  of  internal  poisoning  the  first  step  is  to  evacuate 
the  stomach.  This  should  be  effected  by  an  emetic  which  is 
quickly  obtained,  and  most  powerful  and  speedy  in  its  operation. 
Such  is  powdered  mustard  (a  large  tablespoonful  in  a  tumblerful 
of  warm  water).  When  vomiting  has  already  taken  place 
copious  draughts  of  warm  water  should  be  given,  to  keep  up  the 
effect  till  the  poisoning  substance  has  been  thoroughly  removed." 

Marshall  HaWs  ready  method  in  suffocation,  drowning,  etc. :  — 

1st.    Treat  the  patient  instantly  on  the  spot,  in  tbt^  ?pen  air, 


40  FARRAR'S   ILLUSTRATED  GUIDE. 

freely  exposing  the  face,  neck,  and  chest  to  the  breeze,  except 
in  severe  weather. 

2d.  In  order  to  clear  the  throat,  place  the  patient  gently  on 
the  face,  with  one  wrist  under  the  forehead,  that  all  fluid,  and 
the  tongue  itself,  may  fall  forward,  and  leave  the  entrance  into 
the  windpipe  free. 

3d.  To  excite  respiration,  turn  the  patient  slightly  on  his  side, 
and  apply  some  irritating  or  stimulating  agent  to  the  nostrils,  as 
veratrine,  dilute  ammonia,  etc. 

4th.  Make  the  face  warm  by  brisk  friction;  then  dash  cold 
water  upon  it. 

5th.  If  not  successful,  lose  no  time ;  but,  to  imitate  respira- 
tion, place  the  patient  on  his  face,  and  turn  the  body  gently  but 
completely  on  the  side  and  a  little  beyond,  then  turn  again  on 
the  face,  and  so  on  alternately.  Repeat  these  movements  delib- 
erately and  perseveringly, ^yV«c»  times  only  in  a  minute.  (When 
the  patient  lies  on  the  thorax,  this  cavity  is  compressed  by  the 
weight  of  the  body,  and  expiration  takes  place.  When  he  is 
turned  on  the  side,  this  pressure  is  removed,  and  tnspiration 
occurs.) 

6th.  When  the  prone  position  is  resumed,  make  a  uniform  and 
efficient  pressure  along  the  spine,  removing  the  pressure  imme- 
diately, before  rotation  on  the  side.  (The  pressure  augments  the 
expiration,  the  rotation  commences  inspiration.)  Continue  these 
measures. 

7th.  Rub  the  limbs  upward,  with  firm  press  are  and  with  energy. 
(The  object  being  to  aid  the  return  of  venous  blood  to  the 
heart.) 

8th.  Substitute  for  the  patient's  wet  clothing,  if  possible,  such 
other  covering  as  can  be  instantly  procured,  each  bystander  sup- 
plying a  coat  or  cloak,  etc.  Meantime,  and  from  time  to  time, 
to  excite  inspiration,  let  the  surface  of  the  body  be  slapped 
briskly  with  the   hand. 

9th.  Rub  the  body  briskly  till  it  is  dry  and  warm,  then  dash 
cold  water  upon  it,  and  repeat  the  rubbing. 

Avoid  the  immediate  removal  of  the  patient,  as  it  involves  a 
dangerous  loss  of  time ;  also  the  use  of  bellows  or  any  forcing- 
instrument;  also  the  warm  bath  and  all  rough  treatment. 


CHAPTER   III. 


to  ik 


|nlii*    |csion. 


ERSONS   visiting    tlic   Lakes   from 

Canada,  or   the  West,   will  find   it 

most  convenient  to  take  the  Grand 

Trunk  Railroad  to  Gorham,  Bethel, 

Bryant's    Pond,    and   then    continue 

their  journey   according    to   the   routes 

lioreinafter  described. 

Parties  from  Philadelphia  and  New  York, 
of  whom  there  are  many  visiting  the  lakes 
each  season,  have  a  choice  of  several  routes 
to  Boston  and  Portland,  all  of  Avhich  can 
be  easily  ascertained.  Arriving  in  Boston,  the  traveler  has 
choice  of  six  distinct  routes  by  wliich  the  lake  country  can  be 
reached.     The  first  we  will  designate  as 

The  Bethel  and  Lake  ITmbagog  Route. 

Take  the  cars  at  the  Eastern  Railroad  Depot  on  Causeway  street, 
opposite  Friend  street.  The  train  starts  at  9.00  A.M.,  and  if  you 
wish  to  travel  at  luxurious  ease,  provide  yourself  with  a  seat  in 
one  of  the  Pullman  Palace  Cars,  which  will  cost  you  sixty  cents  in 
addition  to  the  price  of  the  regular  ticket,  and  the  extra  expense 
of  which  you  will  be  more  than  compensated  for,  by  the  in- 
creased comfort,  freedom  from  dust  and  heat,  and  lack  of  care  of 
any  little  bundles  or  packages  you  may  have  with  you,  all  such 
(41) 


THE  ANDROSCOGGIN  LAKES.  43 

being  turned  over  to  the  care  of  the  conductor.  Leaving  the  de- 
pot, you  pass  rapidly  through  Charlestown,  Somerville,  Everett, 
Chelsea,  Lynn,  Swampscott,  Newburyport,  Hampton,  Portsmouth, 
Kittery,  "Wells,  Kennebunk,  Biddeford,  Saco,  and  Scarboro', 
reaching  Portland  at  12.30  P.M.,  a  distance  of  108  miles. 
Or  you  may  take  the  cars  from  the  Boston  and  Main  Rail- 
road Depot,  in  Haymarket  Square,  at  the  head  of  Washington 
street,  at  9.00  A.M.,  and  passing  through  Charlestown,  Somer- 
ville, Maiden,  Melrose,  Lawrence,  Haverhill,  Exeter,  So.  New- 
market, Dover,  Salmon  Falls,  No.  Berwick,  Kennebunk,  Bidde- 
ford, Saco,  and  Old  Orchard  Beach,  arriving  in  Portland  at  the 
same  hour  as  by  the  Eastern  road,  and  occupying  the  same  length 
of  time  for  the  first  stage  of  the  journey.  A  magnificent  Parlor 
Car  accompanies  this  train,  and  passengers  may  take  advantage  of 
all  its  conveniences  for  an  additional  charge  of  sixty  cents.  On 
reaching  Portland  by  either  route,  you  are  carried  across  the  city 
to  the  Grand  Trunk  Railroad  Depot,  where  you  change  cars. 

Or  you  may  leave  Boston  by  one  of  the  Portland  Line  of  Steam- 
ers from  the  south  side  of  India  Wharf,  at  7.00  o'clock  P.M., 
arriving  in  Portland  early  the  next  morning,  in  time  to  connect 
with  either  the  9.00  A.M.,  or  1.30  P.M.  trains  on  the  Grand  Trunk 
Railroad.  Fifty  cents  is  saved  on  a  ticket  each  way  between 
Portland  and  Boston  by  boat.  You  arrive  in  Portland  about  5.00 
o'clock  in  the  morning,  giving  ample  time  to  get  breakfast,  and 
see  all  of  interest  in  the  city.  Or  after  breakfast,  you  may  take 
the  morning  train,  and  go  up  to  Bkyakt's  Pond  or  Bethel, 
and  take  the  morning  stage  for  Andover,  or  Cambridge,  Lake 
Umbagog. 

This  will  be  found  one  of  the  most  pleasant  as  well  as  the  cheap- 
est ways  of  making  that  part  of  the  trip  to  the  lakes  that  lies 
between  Boston  and  Portland.  The  steamers  of  this  line,  the 
Tremont,  John  Brooks,  and  Forest  City,  are  fine  boats,  safe  and 
commodious,  and  run  daily  excepting  Sunday.  They  are  always  on 
time,  and  never  miss  their  train  connections.  They  are  officered 
by  courteous  and  competent  gentlemen,  and  passengers  and  bag- 
gage are  treated  in  the  most  considerate  manner.  Supper  is  served 
on  the  boat  each  way,  for  the  moderate  sum  of  fifty  cents.  The 
new  steamer  Tremont  is  265  feet  long,  and  is  the  largest  boat 
plying  east  of  the  Sound.     She  is  elegantly  fitted  and  furnished 


44  FAKRAR'S  ILLUSTRATED  GUIDE  TO 

with  all  the  modern  improvements.  She  has  one  hundred  state- 
rooms of  comfortable  size.  The  cabins  and  saloons  are  finished 
in  cherry  and  mahogany.  In  furnishing  this  boat  nothing  has 
been  spared  that  will  add  to  the  comfort,  convenience,  and  safety 
of  her  patrons. 

Boats  land  in  Portland  at  Franklin  Wharf,  scarcely  a  stone's- 
throw  from  the  Grand  Trunk  Railroad  Depot.  Hacks,  express  and 
baggage  wagons  are  always  at  the  wharf  on  arrival  of  the  steamers 
to  convey  passengers  or  baggage  to  any  point  desired.  Passengers 
avaiUng  themselves  of  the  boats  between  Boston  and  Portland  have 
a  comfortable  night's  rest,  and  have  half  a  day  to  spend  in  Port- 
land, thereby  giving  them  ample  time  to  make  a  tour  of  the  city. 
State-rooms  are  sold  on  the  boat  for  $1.00  each,  containing  two 
berths.  There  is  such  a  demand  for  these  during  the  traveling 
season,  from  June  to  October,  that  those  who  wish  to  procure 
one  will  consult  their  interest  by  engaging  it  two  or  three  days  in 
advance.  Baggage  is  transferred  to  and  from  the  Grand  Trunk 
Depot  in  Portland  free  of  charge.  Tickets  to  Andover,  Middle 
Dam,  Upper  Dam,  Indian  Rock  or  Lake  Umbagog,  via  Portland 
by  boat,  may  be  purchased  at  the  Grand  Trunk  Railroad  Office, 
280  Washington  Street,  Boston,  or  on  the  steamers.  The  Boston 
office  of  the  steamers  is  at  India  Wharf. 

In  this  connection  we  would  say  that  parties  who  go  from 
Boston  to  Portland  by  boat  can  find  no  better  way  of  spending 
their  spare  time  in  the  latter  city  than  by  making  an  excursion 
to  Greenwood  Garden,  Peaks'  Island,  in  Portland  Harbor,  one  of 
the  finest  summer  gardens  in  New  England,  under  the  manage- 
ment of  Captain  C.  H.  Knowlton.  The  fine  steamer  "  Emita," 
makes  a  dozen  trips,  daily,  each  way  between  Portland  and  the 
Garden,  and  starts  from  Franklin  Wharf,  where  the  Boston 
boats  lay.  The  expense  of  a  ticket  to  the  island,  including  ad- 
mission to  the  Garden,  is  but  25  cents,  and  enables  one  to  make  a 
charming  morning  trip,  returning  in  time  for  dinner  and  the  train. 

Parties  going  to  Portland  by  boat,  by  taking  the  morning  train 
can  reach  Andover  at  2.00  P.M.,  Arm  of  the  Lake  at  5.30  P.M., 
Middle  Dam  at  6.00  P.M.,  and  Upper  Dam  at  6.30  in  the  evening 
of  the  same  day  they  leave  Portland.  Or  if  they  go  to  Bethel, 
they  can  reach  Cambridge  (Lake  Umbagog)  at  5.00  P.M.  the 
same  day.     Passengers  leaving  Augusta,  Bath,  Brunswick,  and 


THE   ANDKOSCOGGIN  LAKES.  45 

Lewiston,  in  the  morning  can  reach  all  lake  points  the  same 
evening,  via  Maine  Central  and  Grand  Trunk  Bailroads. 

Parties  can  leave  Boston  by  either  the  Boston  &  Maine  or 
Eastern  Railroads  at  12.30  P.M.,  arrive  in  Portland  at  5.00  P.M. 
the  trains  running  across  to  the  Grand  Trunk  Depot.  Leave 
Portland  at  5.15  P.M.  by  the  Lewiston  train,  and,  changing  cars 
at  Danville  Junction,  arrive  at  Bethel  about  9.00  P.M.,  where 
you  stop  over  night.  Leave  Bethel  at  8  o'clock  next  morning, 
by  team  or  stage,  arriving  at  Cambridge,  Lake  Umbagog,  at  1.00 
P.M.,  stopping  at  the  New  Lakeside  Hotel  until  the  next  morn- 
ing, when  you  can  take  the  steamer  for  points  up  the  Lake. 
Parties  making  the  trip  this  way  go  through  Grafton  Notch  by 
daylight,  and  have  a  delightful  ride,  besides  the  advantage  of 
leaving  Boston  several  hours  later. 

There  are  dining-saloons  in  the  Boston  &  Maine  Transfer 
Station,  and  the  Eastern  and  Grand  Trunk  Depots,  where  you 
can  procure  dinner. 

Again ;  tourists  may  avail  themselves  of  the  modern  comforts  of 
the  Pullman  Palace  Car,  as  one  will  be  found  attached  to  the 
train.  The  price  of  seats  between  Portland  and  Bryant's  Pond 
is  30  cents ;  Bethel,  35  cents ;  Gorham,  45  cents  ;  Berlin  Falls, 
50  cents ;  and  North  Stratford,  75  cents. 

The  ride  from  Portland  is  very  pleasant,  the  train  passing 
through  the  towns  of  Falmouth,  Cumberland,  Yarmouth,  Pownal, 
New  Gloucester,  Danville  Junction,  Mechanic  Falls,  Oxford, 
South  Paris,  Bryant's  Pond,  Locke's  Mills,  reaching  Bethel,  70 
miles  from  Portland,  and  178  from  Boston,  at  4.15  o'clock.  At 
the  depot  you  are  met  by  a  team  from  the  Elms  House.  This 
hotel  is  kept  by  C.  W.  Wormell,  formerly  of  the  Falmouth  Hotel, 
Portland,  and  the  Alpine  House,  Gorham,  and  is  as  good  a  hotel 
as  you  will  find  throughout  the  mountain  region.  Situated  on  the 
summit  of  Bethel  Hill,  and  most  pleasantly  located  on  the  main 
street  of  the  village,  it  commands  one  of  the  finest  mountain 
views  to  be  obtained  in  that  section.  The  proprietor,  ever 
courteous  and  attentive  to  the  wants  of  his  guests,  is  a 
favorite  with  the  travelling  public;  the  cuisine  ot  the  Elms 
is  excellent  and  worthy  of  all  praise,  and  the  terms  of 
the  house  are  moderate.  Persons  en  route  to  the  lake  region, 
by  way  of  Lake  Umbagog,  stop  at  Bethel  for  supper;  but  those 


SoBBW-AcGER  Falls,  Bear  River. 


THE  ANDEOSCOGGIN  LAKES.  47 

who  are  not  pressed  for  time  will  find  it  to  their  advantage  to 
spend  the  night  at  one  of  the  hotels,  and  proceed  the  next  inoru- 
ing,  enabling  them  to  pass  through  the  celebrated  Grafton 
Notch  by  daylight.  The  mail-stage  leaves  Bethel  each  morn- 
ing at  8.00  o'clock  for  Cambridge,  Lake  Umbagog,  26  miles 
distant.  Fare,  $3.00.  Parties  visiting  the  Lakes  by  this  route, 
who  travel  by  stage,  will  make  a  considerable  saving  by  purchas- 
ing round-trip  excursion  tickets.  Private  teams  can  also  be  pro- 
cured at  the  Elms  at  a  reasonable  price,  for  that  part  of  the  trip 
between  Bethel  and  Cambridge,  Lake  Umbagog. 

Parties  arriving  at  Bethel  on  the  morning  train  from  Port- 
land can  go  directly  on  to  Cambridge  if  they  wish,  and  thus 
have  the  entire  ride  by  daylight,  or  they  can  wait  over  in  Bethel 
until  the  afternoon  train  arrives,  and  then  go  to  the  lake  by  the 
evening  stage,  which  makes  the  distance  in  about  five  hours. 

The  ride  from  Bethel  to  Cambridge,  at  the  foot  of  Lake  Um- 
bagog, is  one  of  the  finest  in  New  England,  and  every  tourist 
who  makes  the  trip  is  delighted  with  it.  Leaving  the  main  street 
of  the  village,  you  cross  the  railroad  bridge,  obtaining  a  splendid 
view  of  the  meadows  and  intervales  that  lie  along  the  Andros- 
coggin River,  the  whole  hemmed  in  by  hundreds  of  mountains 
towering  loftily  in  every  direction.  The  meadows  of  Bethel 
are  simply  incomparable ;  and  toward  the  close  of  a  clear,  sum- 
mer's day,  when  the  mellow  sunlight  falls  slanting  upon  the 
waving  grass,  casting  long  shadows  from  the  graceful  elms,  with 
which  the  intervales  are  dotted,  and  the  eye  traces  northward  the 
narrowing  line  of  hills  following  the  course  of  the  silvery  Andros- 
coggin, and  catches  the  clear-cut  and  well-defined  edges  of  the 
monarchal  White  Mountain  range,  sweeping  across  and  closing 
up  the  vista,  it  is  impossible  to  conceive  anywhere  in  New  Eng- 
land a  picture  that  will  more  strongly  appeal  to  an  artist's  love 
of  the  beautiful. 

A  short  distance  beyond  the  railroad  bridge  the  best  view  from 
the  road  of  Mount  Washington  is  to  be  obtained,  and  a  half  mile 
beyond  the  railroad  you  cross  the  Androscoggin  River,  which  fol- 
lows you  on  the  right,  remaining  in  sight  until  you  pass  Newry 
Corner.  After  leaving  the  river  bridge  you  pass  through  Mays- 
ville  and  Swan's  Corner,  and  two  miles  beyond,  reach  North 
Bethel.     Continuing  on  through  the  village,  you  cross  Sunday 


48  FARRAR'S  ILLUSTRATED  GUIDE  TO 

River  by  a  covered  wooden  bridge.  This  stream  sweeps  down 
from  the  mountains  lying  northward,  and  empties  into  the  An- 
droscoggin a  few  rods  from  the  road.  Trout-fishing  is  very  fair 
on  the  upper  end  of  this  stream  in  the  spring  and  early  summer, 
and  the  drive  up  the  Sunday  River  valley  for  about  six  miles  is 
charming. 

Three  miles  from  here  you  cross  Bear  River  by  another  cov- 
ered bridge,  and  enter  the  town  of  Newry,  a  small  place  of  a  few 
hundred  inhabitants,  containing  a  post-office,  store,  church,  and 
a  few  other  public  buildings.  Bear  River  is  another  tributary  of 
the  Androscoggin,  and  empties  into  the  main  stream  at  Newry 
Corner.  At  this  point  you  take  your  last  look  at  the  '  •  big 
river,"  as  the  lumbermen  term  it ;  and  the  horses  turn  sharply 
northward,  trotting  through  the  village,  and  follow  up  Bear 
River,  a  wild  and  noisy  stream,  that  comes  tearing  down  through 
a  narrow  and  picturesque  valley.  To  the  west  Sunday  River 
White  Cap  towers  boldly  skyward,  a  bare-topped  peak  of  com- 
manding presence. 

There  are  some  of  the  finest  landscape  views  between  Bethel 
and  Newry  Corner  that  you  will  find  in  many  a  long  day's  travel, 
and  our  illustration  of  one  of  these  on  page  42,  while  doing  credit 
to  our  artist  and  engraver,  is  far  inferior  to  the  reality. 

The  grade  to  Newry  Corner  has  been  mostly  down  hill,  but 
as  you  follow  up  the  narrow,  mountain-walled  valley  of  Bear 
River  you  commence  the  long,  but  gradual  ascent  to  overcome 
the  height  of  land  between  the  Andkoscoggin  and  Uhbagog 
Lake. 

For  the  next  five  miles  you  catch  frequent  glimpses  of  the  river 
on  the  left,  and  gaze  with  veneration  on  the  mountains  that 
cluster  about  the  Notch,  and  wonder  how  you  are  to  get  through 
them ;  for  the  pass  is  so  narrow  it  is  impossible  to  discern  its  ex- 
istence. An  hour's  ride  from  Newry  Corner  brings  you  to  the 
Poplar  Tavern,  a  small  hotel,  standing  on  the  right-hand  side  of 
the  road,  eleven  miles  from  Bethel  Hill. 

The  old  "  Popple  Tavern,"  as  it  used  to  be  called,  is  kept  by 
Mr.  Charles  Bartlett,  who  has  been  the  proprietor  for  the  last 
twelve  years.  He  has  recently  added  a  new  story  to  the  house, 
and  enlarged  and  improved  it  in  other  respects,  so  that  it  now 
presents  good  inducements  to  tourists.      It  is  very  pleasantly 


THE  ANDROSCOGGIN  LAKES.  49 

located,  and  is  in  the  vicinity  of  several  streams  that,  like  Bear 
River,  are  noted  for  the  quantity  and  quality  of  their  trout. 

The  scenery  at  this  place  begins  to  grow  wilder.  The  moun- 
tains appear  nearer  and  more  rugged.  The  road  still  forces  its 
way  through  the  narrow  valley,  and  it  is  a  constant  struggle  be- 
tween the  road  and  the  river  on  one  side,  and  the  mountains  on 
the  other,  as  to  which  shall  obtain  the  mastery.  The  stream  here 
presents  a  picturesque  appearance,  it  being  a  rapid  torrent,  broken 
by  numerous  falls,  and  rushes  along  its  rocky  bed  as  if  impatient 
of  restraint.  In  the  fall,  after  heavy  rains,  dangerous  freshets 
sometimes  occur. 

To  the  right  of  the  Poplar  Tavern  is  a  pretty,  round-topped  peak, 
known  as  Puzzle  Mountain,  of  considerable  height.  It  is  easily 
ascended  from  the  hotel,  and  commands  an  extensive  view  of  the 
surrounding  country.  A  short  distance  beyond  the  hotel,  on  the 
left-hand  side  of  the  road,  on  the  bank  of  Bear  River,  is  some- 
thing of  a  curiosity,  known  as  the  Devil's  Horseshoe.  It  is  an 
impression  of  a  horseshoe,  perfect  in  form,  worn  deep  into  the 
solid  ledge.  It  is  immense  in  size,  and  would  cover  the  head  of 
a  flour-barrel.  If  the  devil  ever  rode  a  horse  with  a  foot  sufii- 
ciently  large  to  carry  a  shoe  the  size  of  the  impression  in  the 
ledge,  the  beast  must  have  been  as  large  as  a  mastodon.  Near  it 
is  a  heavy  rapid,  known  as  Horseshoe  Falls. 

Proceeding  onward,  the  dark-green  peaks  of  Mount  Saddle- 
back, directly  ahead,  look  down  upon  you  in  majestic  grandeur, 
and  the  loftier  summit  of  Speckled  Mountain  towers  far  above 
you  to  the  west,  while  to  the  left  the  Bear  River  White  Cap  rears 
its  hoary  head.  Directly  opposite,  and  north-west  of  Saddleback 
Mountain,  is  a  high,  irregular,  queer-shaped  mountain,  known  as 
Old  Goose-Eye.  Three  miles  from  Poplar  Tavern  a  veritable 
curiosity  awaits  you,  known  as  "  Screw-Auger  Falls,"  our 
illustration  on  page  46  giving  but  a  faint  idea  of  this  wonderful 
locality.  It  is  but  a  short  distance  from  the  road,  on  the  left-hand 
side,  and  well  worth  a  visit,  and  all  who  go  to  the  lakes  by  this 
route  should  not  fail  to  inspect  it.  If  this  charming  and  romantic 
spot  was  near  any  one  of  the  large  hotels  in  the  White  Mountain 
region  it  would  be  a  fortune  to  them.  An  enormous  granite 
ledge  fills  the  whole  bottom  of  the  gorge ;  through  this  the  stream 
has  worn  a  large  spiral  channel,  in  shape  not  unlike  a  large 


THE  ANDROSCOGGIN  LAKES.  51 

auger,  and  hence  its  name.  This  canon,  as  one  may  appropriately 
term  it,  is  about  one  hundred  feet  in  length,  and  so  narrow  at 
some  points  that  one  can  leap  across  it.  Its  greatest  depth  cannot 
be  far  from  seventy  feet,  and  the  sides  are  as  smooth  as  polished 
marble.  Through  the  rock  run  veins  of  white  quartz,  mingled 
with  other  minerals. 

It  is  in  such  places  as  this  that  one  gets  some  idea  of  the  vast 
power  of  water ;  and  it  must  have  taken  years,  if  not  centuries,  to 
do  the  work  that  is  still  going  on  here. 

A  short  distance  beyond  the  falls  there  is  another  curiosity, 
close  beside  the  road,  on  the  left  hand,  but  half  hidden  by  the 
shrubbery,  known  locally  as  the  "  Jail."  It  is  an  abyss,  semi- 
circular in  shape,  the  sides  being  smooth  and  of  great  height ;  a 
place  into  which  one  can  fall  easily,  but  from  which  they  would 
find  considerable  difficulty  to  get  out.  Formerly  the  river  ran 
through  it,  wearing  this  great  cavity,  but  it  has  now  made  for  it- 
self a  new  channel  some  rods  to  the  westward.  About  a  mile  be- 
yond, you  reach  Grafton  Notch,  which  is  destined  to  become 
famous  in  the  eye  of  the  tourist. 

A  short  distance  from  the  "Jail"  you  cross  Bear  River,  the 
stream  sweeping  to  the  right.  In  this  vicinity,  by  careful  in- 
spection, you  may  perceive  two  figures  on  the  precipitous  side 
of  Speckled  Mountain,  —  one  being  the  profile  of  a  man's  face 
turned  toward  the  sky,  as  it  would  appear  if  he  were  lying  flat 
on  his  back ;  the  other  is  that  of  an  old  woman  sitting  in  a  chair 
facing  you.  While  it  may  require  a  slight  stretch  of  the  imagi- 
nation to  see  these  figures  clearly,  they  are  a  great  deal  plainer 
than  many  similar  sights  that  I  have  had  pointed  out  to  me  at 
other  summer  resorts. 

As  you  enter  the  Notch  the  forest  sweeps  down  on  both  sides, 
inclosing  you  in  its  leafy  bosom,  while  the  stream  murmurs 
faintly  far  below  you  on  the  right.  You  are  completely  sur- 
rounded by  the  grand  old  woods,  and  your  view  for  several 
miles  is  limited  to  a  few  rods  of  the  gravelly  road,  except  occa- 
sionally, as  you  make  a  sharp  turn,  a  bit  of  the  mountain  high 
above  your  head  is  discovered  -for  a  moment,  and  is  then  ob- 
scured by  its  mantle  of  green. 

In  the  narrowest  part  of  the  Notch  you  find  Bear  River  dwin- 
dled to  a  noisy  brook,  that  rushes  and  roars  hoarsely  along  the 


52  FAERAR'S  ILLUSTRATED  GUIDE. 

ravine.  The  road  crosses  the  stream,  that  through  the  Notch 
turns  to  every  point  of  the  compass  some  half-dozen  times,  the 
bridges  being  mostly  built  of  logs,  with  a  protecting  rail  along 
the  sides.  At  one  point  the  road  passes  between  two  immense 
boulders  called  the  "  Twin  Rocks,"  there  being  just  room  enough 
for  one  team  to  drive  through. 

A  little  farther  on,  a  short  distance  from  the  road  to  the  right, 
is  another  wonderful  exhibition  of  the  wear  of  water  through 
solid  rock.  It  is  known  as  Moose  Cave,  and  derives  its  name 
from  the  fact  that  a  wounded  moose  once  took  refuge  in  the  cav- 
ern worn  by  the  struggling  waters.  As  a  curiosity,  it  is  a  worthy 
companion  to  Screw-Auger  Falls. 

A  mile  beyond  the  cave  the  road  leaves  the  Notch,  disclosing 
a  heavily-wooded  country,  with  mountains  in  all  directions.  A 
glance  backward  from  time  to  time  gives  you  fine  views  of  the 
mountains  you  have  just  left. 

The  Bear  and  Cambridge  Rivers  rise  in  the  Notch  within  a 
short  distance  of  each  other,  the  road  separating  them ;  the  for- 
mer flowing  south  to  the  Androscoggin;  and  the  latter  north, 
emptying  into  Lake  Umbagog.  It  has  two  branches,  one  called 
the  "  Swift,"  and  the  other  the  "  Dead"  Cambridge. 

A  few  miles  from  the  Notch  you  pass  the  Grafton  Hotel  and 
post-office,  the  road  in  this  locality  for  a  mile  or  two  being  as 
level  as  a  floor.  Leaving  this  plain  you  ascend  a  hill,  passing  on 
the  right  an  old-fashioned  house,  once  the  Union  Hotel  and  now 
the  home  of  a  thriving  and  energetic  lumberman  by  the  name 
of  Brown.  Looking  back,  after  passing  this  house,  you  obtain 
by  far  the  most  lovely  and  complete  view  of  Saddleback  and 
Speckled  Mountains  to  be  had  from  any  point  in  your  ride.  Con- 
tinuing on  your  climb  a  long  hill,  bringing  you  to  the  top  of  a 
high  plateau,  from  which  you  catch  the  first  glimpse  of  the 
narrow  and  tortuous  lake.  As  you  turn  to  the  west,  toward  the 
lake,  you  pass  on  the  right  a  road  that  crosses  the  mountains  to 
Andover,  a  distance  of  fifteen  miles. 

A  short  distance  from  the  junction  of  the  roads  you  pass  the 
Upton  post-office,  and  continuing  straight  on,  a  drive  of  a  trifle 
over  a  mile  brings  you  to  the  Lakeside,  a  new  hotel  charmingly 
located  in  Cambridge,  N.H.,  at  the  foot  of  Umbagog  Lake. 
This  house  sets  on  a  terrace  on  the  left  side  of  the  road,  directly 


54  FARRAR'S  ILLUSTRATED  GUIDE  TO 

in  front  of  the  lake,  and  but  a  short  distance  from  it.  Back  of 
the  house  the  land  rises  gradually,  until  at  the  distance  of  a  mile 
the  hill  has  become  a  mountain.  A  large  part  of  the  lake  is  seen 
sweeping  away  to  the  northward,  entirely  surrounded  with  high 
mountains  covered  with  a  thick  growth  of  forest.  In  all  direc- 
tions the  view  is  fine ;  and,  setting  on  high  land  as  the  hotel  does, 
it  is  always  exposed  to  what  breeze  there  is,  and  is  cool  the 
hottest  days  in  summer,  while  flies  and  mosquitoes  for  the  same 
reason  are  seldom  troublesome  even  in  their  season. 

The  Ljikeside  was  built  new  during  the  Spring  of  1883,  and 
has  a  nice  office,  cosy  parlor,  pleasant  dining-room,  and  sleep- 
ing-rooms,—  some  containing  open  fire-places,  and  nearly  all 
overlooking  the  lake.  Roomy  piazzas  extend  around  the  house, 
and  in  the  immediate  vicinity  is  plenty  of  level  ground  for 
croquet,  or  lawn-tennis,  sets  for  both  games  being  kept  at  the 
hotel  for  the  use  of  guests.  The  house  is  well-furnished 
throughout,  and  the  parlor  contains  a  very  fine  piano,  with  full 
key-board.  Especial  care  has  been  given  to  the  sleeping-rooms, 
each  one  containing  the  best  spring-beds  and  hair  mattresses  to 
be  bought.  An  excellent  table  is  also  set  at  this  house,  and  is 
one  of  its  leading  features.  Row-boats  may  be  hired  from  the 
manager  of  the  hotel,  and  the  lake,  but  a  few  rods  away,  offers 
splendid  chances  for  boating.  Beside  the  pickerel  and  trout 
fishing  in  the  lake,  there  are  some  of  the  finest  trout  streams  in 
New  Hampshire  or  Maine  near  the  hotel,  the  Molnichowoc,  one 
of  the  best,  being  within  easy  walking  distance.  The  roads  in 
the  vicinity  are  excellent,  and  offer  beautiful  drives.  The 
steamer  Parmachenee  lands  but  a  few  rods  from  the  hotel, 
and  makes  daily  trips  (excepting  Sunday)  on  the  lake  during 
the  entire  season  of  navigation.  A  post-office  has  been  estab- 
lished in  the  house,  and  there  is  a  daily  mail  from  and  to  Boston. 

The  Bethel  stage  stops  at  the  house  over  night,  and  leaves 
for  Bethel  each  morning.  The  steamer  Parmachenee  leaves 
her  wharf  each  morning  for  Wentworth's  Location,  on  the 
Magallowat  River,  stopping  on  her  way  at  Sdndat  Cove, 
from  whence  teams  run  to  the  Middle  Dam,  on  Lake  Weloken- 
NEBACOOE,  where  connection  is  made  with  steamers  for  Upper 
Dam,B£mis  Stream,  Haines'  Landing,  Indian  Rock,  Rangelet 
CiTT,  and  Kennebago  Lake,  and  at  Ebbol  Dam,  where  teams 


THE   ANDROSCOGGIN  LAKES.  55 

are  in  waiting  to  convey  those  who  wish  to  go  to  Dixville  Notch. 
Also  with  stages  for  Colebrook,  Milan  Corner,  Berlin  Falls, 
and  GoRHAM.  The  steamer  leaves  the  Lakeside,  Cambridge, 
at  7.30  A.M.;  returning,  reaches  the  hotel  at  6.00  P.M.,  fur- 
nishing to  guests  of  the  house  one  of  the  most  delightful  sails  in 
the  world. 

Guides  for  camping-out,  or  fishing  trips,  will  be  engaged  for 
parties  by  the  manager  of  the  hotel.  Their  terms  are  $2.50  per 
day,  and  board.  Parties  wishing  to  engage  them  in  advance 
should  address;  "Manager  Lakeside  Hotel,"  Lakeside  P.O., 
Cambkidge,  N.H. 

Duck-shooting  in  the  fall,  at  the  lower  end  of  Umbagog  Lake, 
is  very  fine,  and  the  Lakeside  offers  convenient  and  commodious 
quarters  for  sportsmen  visiting  the  lake  in  October  for  that 
purpose. 

Lake  Umbagog  is  the  lower  of  the  chain  of  Androscoggin 
Lakes,  and  is  1,256  feet  above  the  sea  level.  The  Androscoggin 
River  serves  as  an  outlet  to  this,  as  well  as  all  otf  the  other 
lakes. 


CHAPTER  IV. 


iiom  laic  imbagog  to  thi^  WMk  j]am. 


GOOD  night's  rest  at  the 
Lakeside,  and  you  will  be 
ready  in  the  morning,  after 
partaking  of  a  hearty  break- 
fast (for  one  is  always  hungry 
in  this  country),  to  proceed. 
You  will  also  find  it  to  your 
advantage  to  procure  a  guide 
here  before  starting,  for 
whose  services  you  pay  $2.50 
per  day,  and  board.  The 
little  steamer  "  Parmachenee" 
is  at  your  service,  and  nothing  can  be  more  delightful  on  a 
pleasant  morning  than  a  sail  across  the  lake. 

You  embark,  the  whistle  is  sounded  to  hurry  up  the  laggards, 
the  fasts  are  cast  off,  and  with  the  j)leasant  captain  at  the  wheel, 
the  boat,  with  its  jolly  company  of  sportsmen  and  tourists,  leaves 
the  wharf  in  Cambridge. 

Heading  north-west  at  first,  the  steamer  passes  B  Point  on 
the  right,  and  soon  afterwards  the  Big  Island  on  the  left. 
Should  she  continue  her  present  course,  she  would  bring  up  in 
Heywood's  cornfield ;  but  after  passing  Bear  Island,  on  the 
right,  the  boat  makes  a  sharp  turn  toward  the  east,  heading  for 
Tyler  Cove.  A  short  run,  however,  and  her  course  is  again 
changed,  her  bow  pointing  north  now,  and  running  between  the 
Narrows  on  the  left,  and  Metalluc  Island  on  the  right,  she 
sweeps  by  the  mouth  of  the  beautiful  expanse  of  water  known 
as  Tyler  Cove.  At  the  head  of  this  cove  is  a  fine  sand-beach 
and  a  small  clearing,  the  remains  of  a  farm ;  there  is  a  good 
157} 


58  FARRAR'S  ILLUSTRATED  GUIDE  TO 

spring  of  water  here,  and  plenty  of  berries  in  their  season ;  it  is 
also  one  of  the  best  places  in  the  lake  for  trout,  and  camping 
parties  often  pitch  their  tents  here  for  a  few  days. 

Beyond  Ttler  Cove,  the  steamer  passes  B  Brook  Point  on 
the  right,  and  a  short  distance  farther,  on  the  same  side,  B  Bbook 
Cote,  laic  the  head  of  this  cove,  empties  B  Brook,  the  outlet 
of  B  Pond,  and  around  the  inlet  some  trout  are  taken. 

Continuing  on  a  northerly  course,  Moll's  Rock,  a  large, 
shelving  ledge,  sweeping  into  the  water,  is  the  next  object  of 
interest  passed.  This  is  on  the  left-hand  or  western  side  of  the 
lake  Of  all  the  camping-grounds  around  the  lake  this  is  the 
gretitest  favorite,  and  it  is  no  uncommon  sight  to  see  three  or 
fjar  tents  pitched  here  at  the  same  time.  There  is  a  good  spring 
of  water  near,  and  plenty  of  firewood,  and  the  place  is  in  close 
proximity  to  the  fishing  in  summer,  and  the  shooting  in  the  fall, 
and  is  also  but  an  eighth  of  a  mile  from  Moll's  Carry,  a  short 
cut  from  the  lake  to  theMAOALLOWAT  River. 

Steaming  onward,  perhaps  for  a  mile  farther,  and  the  outlet  of 
the  lake  is  passed  on  the  left  side.  If  the  water  in  the  lake  is 
low  you  can,  perhaps,  by  the  aid  of  the  captain,  make  out  where 
the  river  leaves ;  but  if  the  lake  is  high  you  can  discern  nothing, 
as  then  the  river  banks  are  six  feet  under  water,  and  it  would 
puzzle  a  Philadelphia  lawyer,  unless  he  knew  the  exact  location, 
to  be  able  to  find  in  the  submerged  forest  the  particular  point 
where  the  entrance  to  the  river  is  effected.  During  the  high 
water  the  steamer  on  her  trips  between  the  lake  and  the  Magallo- 
way  takes  a  short  cut  by  crossing  over  a  piece  of  submerged 
meadow-land,  known  when  out  of  water  as  the  Richardson 
Carry. 

Beyond  the  outlet  you  pass  Pine  Point,  a  rocky  headland  on 
the  right,  where  is  another  good  camping-ground,  and  where 
berries  are  thick  in  season ;  and  then  on  the  left,  a  low,  grassy 
point,  known  as  Moose  Point,  but  which  is  only  visible  at  a 
medium,  or  low  stage  of  the  lake. 

Above  Pine  Point  you  reach  the  widest  part  of  the  lake,  and 
oflE  to  the  eastward,  on  the  right-hand  side,  is  the  Inlet,  where  the 
Rapid  River  ends  its  wild  career.  Crossing  this  broad  bay,  the 
steamer  heading  about  north-east,  you  pass,  at  some  distance 
away,  Stubdivant  Cove,  with  its  lovely  beach  of  sand ;  then  a 


THE  ANDROSCOGGIN  LAKES.  59 

rocky  headland,  sweeping  up  almost  perpendicularly  from  the 
shore  to  a  height  of  thirty  feet.  In  front  of  this,  and  near  it,  is 
the  deep  fishing-ground,  where  specimens  of  the  Salmo  Fontinalis, 
weighing  from  three  to  eight  pounds,  are  taken  from  their  natural 
element,  to  find  themselves  eventually  in  the  frying-pan,  or  the 
baking-oven. 

At  the  entrance  of  Sunday  Cove  you  pass  Eagle  Point  on 
the  right,  with  its  attractive-looking  rocky  shore,  and,  following 
along  the  right-hand  side  for  a  mile,  the  steamer  reaches  the 
Sdnday  Cove  landing,  where  connection  is  made  with  a  two- 
horse  buckboard,  for  the  Middle  Dam  Camp,  five  miles  distant. 
This  style  of  vehicle  is  admirably  adapted  to  the  forest  road 
between  the  lakes,  and  will  carry  five  passengers,  beside  the 
driver,  and  a  large  amount  of  baggage.  The  Richardson- 
RA.NGELEY  Lakes  Tkansportation  COMPANY  Contemplate  build- 
ing a  light  narrow-gauge  steam  railroad  across  this  carry,  and  we 
hope  before  another  year  it  may  be  done. 

Lake  Umbagog  is  a  long,  narrow,  crooked  lake,  surrounded 
for  the  most  part  by  dense  forests,  and  walled  in  by  mountain 
peaks  from  one  to  five  thousand  feet  in  height. 

The  distance  from  Cambridge  to  Sunday  Cove  is  twelve 
miles,  fare  ^1.00;  and  during  the  trip,  if  the  weather  is  clear,  a 
very  fine  view  of  the  mountains  in  the  vicinity  may  be  had. 

The  view  of  the  White  Mountains  from  Umbagog  far  excels 
that  from  any  otiier  point  in  the  lake  region,  and  the  three  highest 
peaks,  Washington,  Jefferson,  and  Adams,  are  visible  more  than 
half-way  to  their  base.  Other  prominent  peaks  seen  betweexi 
Cambridge  and  Sunday  Cove  from  the  steamer  are  Saddlb- 
back  and  Speckled  Mountains,  between  which  you  have  passed 
on  your  ride  from  Betuel,  the  Hampshire  Hills,  Mount  Saw- 
yer, Mount  Blue,  Errol  Hill,  Moose  Mountain,  Mount 
Dustan,  and  Aziscohos,  the  last  the  highest  mountain  iu  the 
lake  region. 

During  the  latter  part  of  August,  and  during  the  months  of 
September  and  October,  the  hunting  is  excellent  about  the  shores 
of  Lake  Umbagog.  Ducks  of  several  varieties,  "  yellow-legs," 
partridges,  quail,  woodcock,  rabbits,  deer,  bears,  foxes  otters, 
musk-rats,  and  other  animals,  are  plenty,  and  are  shot  iu  large 
numbers.    Moose  also  are  occasionally  seen. 


Middle  Dam  and  Rapid  Eiver. 


THE  ANDROSCOGGIN  LAKES.  61 

Leaving  the  steamer,  you  take  a  seat  on  the  buckboard,  which 
runs  daily,  excepting  Sunday,  between  Lake  Umbagog  and  the 
Middle  Dam.  The  fare  is  .$1.00,  or  you  can  walk,  and  pay  for 
having  your  baggage  hauled  at  the  rate  of  75  cents  per  100  lbs. 
Most  people,  however,  prefer  to  ride. 

The  road  from  lake  to  lake  runs  through  the  woods  the  entire 
distance,  and  is  very  pleasant.  In  some  places  it  lies  near  the 
river,  giving  beautiful  views  of  rapids  and  falls.  About  three 
miles  from  Sunday  Cove  you  pass  on  the  left  a  two-story-and-a- 
half  building,  the  camp  of  the  Oxford  Club.  It  is  prettily 
situated  on  the  bank  of  the  river.  The  stream  furnishes  good 
fishing,  as  does  also  B  Pond,  a  mile  and  a  half  distant,  from  the 
opposite  bank  of  the  river.  The  club  numbers  twenty  gentlemen, 
most  of  whom  are  Boston  men.  Opposite  the  club-house  is  a 
peculiar  bridge,  if  we  may  so  call  it.  A  wire  rope  is  stretched 
across  the  river,  which  at  this  point  is  very  rapid,  from  a  high 
tree  on  either  bank.  Attached  to  the  cable  is  a  loose  pulley,  and 
from  this  hangs  a  swinging  seat,  which  is  worked  back  and  forth 
by  the  person  who  wishes  to  cross.  A  person  at  all  inclined  to 
dizziness  finds  his  first  trip  across  the  river  by  means  of  this 
cable  anything  but  pleasant.  But  one  soon  gets  accustomed  to 
the  novelty  of  this  means  of  transportation. 

A  short  distance  beyond  the  club  camp,  on  the  same  side  of 
the  road,  is  a  smaller  camp,  known  as  Forest  Lodge,  which  is 
also  the  property  of  the  Oxford  Club.  A  few  minutes'  ride 
from  this  point,  and  you  catch  a  glimpse  on  your  right  of  a 
large  pond,  —  an  expansion  of  the  river.  In  this  vicinity  the  lum- 
bermen, when  driving  logs,  set  up  their  "  wangun,"  and  the  spot 
has  been  known  for  years  as  a  "driver's"  camping-ground.  A 
mile  and  a  half  from  here,  the  first  glimpse  of  the  lake  is  caught 
through  the  trees  on  your  right,  and  a  moment  later,  the  team 
reaches  the  clearing,  and  draws  up  at  the  New  Middle  Dam 
Camp;  the  word  "New"  being  used  to  distinguish  it  from  the 
old  camp,  standing  in  a  somewhat  dilapidated  condition  nearer 
the  dam.  The  new  camp  is  a  great  improvement  over  the  old  one 
in  all  respects,  and  its  accommodations  are  more  than  doubled. 
It  is  situated  a  short  distance  north  of  the  old  camp,  and  stands 
fronting  the  lake,  which  is  but  a  few  rods  from  the  house.  The 
building  is  two  and  a  half  stories  high,  with  pitch  roof,  and  has 


62  FARRAR'S  ILLUSTRATED  GUIDE  TO 

a  piazza  in  front  and  on  each  end.  The  view  from  the  front 
piazza  is  very  fine,  nearly  the  whole  of  the  lower  lake  being  in 
sight,  beside  quite  a  number  of  mountains. 

The  house  contains  a  large  and  spacious  office,  a  commodious 
dining-room,  kitchen,  pantry,  wash-room,  twenty  sleeping-rooms, 
and  a  ladies'  sitting-room,  besides  several  other  rooms  for  various 
purposes.  All  the  sleeping-rooms,  and  the  hall  in  the  second 
story,  are  lathed  and  plastered. 

The  New  Middle  Dam  Camp  has  already  become  a  favorite 
stopping-place  with  the  ladies,  not  only  on  account  of  its  superior 
accommodations  and  beautiful  location,  but  also  for  its  nearness 
to  the  fishing-ground,  and  the  facilities  offered  for  walking,  boat- 
ing, and  bathing. 

The  steamers  Wblokennebacook  or  MoLECHUKKAMnNK 
make  two  trips  daily  between  the  Sodtii  Arm  and  the  Uppeb 
Dam,  stopping  each  day  at  the  Middle  Dam  when  there  are  pas- 
sengers, thus  giving  those  who  stop  at  the  new  hotel  a  chance  to 
visit  the  Upper  Dam  in  the  morning,  have  a  day's  fishing,  take 
dinner,  and  return  to  the  Middle  Dam  late  in  the  afternoon. 

The  proprietor  of  the  Middle  Dam  Camp  will  furnish  boats  and 
guides  at  regular  prices  to  all  who  need  them,  and  will  also 
supply  camping  parties  with  provisions  and  other  outfits  if 
desired.  An  excellent  table  has  always  been  set  here,  and  the 
cuisine  will  compare  favorably  with  more  pretentious  hotels.  A 
post-office  is  established  in  the  house  during  the  season,  and 
parties  wishing  to  engage  rooms  in  advance  should  address 
"Proprietor  Middle  Dam  Camp,"  Middle  Dam,  Oxford  Co., 
Maine,  via  Bethel. 

Arrived  at  the  camp,  you  will  find  a  number  of  fishermen  and 
tourists  from  all  parts  of  the  country,  who  are  generally  first-rate 
fellows,  and  with  whom  you  will  soon  find  yourself  on  terms  of 
friendly  intimacy.  No  man  is  better  than  his  neighbor  here,  and 
it  is  "  hail  fellow,  well  met,"  with  everybody.  There  is  nothing 
like  life  in  the  woods  to  take  the  foolish  airs  out  of  a  man. 

If  you  are  an  enthusiastic  fisherman,  you  will  be  anxious  to 
have  a  try  at  the  trout  before  dinner,  and,  accompanied  by  your 
guide,  with  rod  and  landing-net,  flies,  and  worms,  —  now  don't 
turn  up  your  nose  at  the  word  "  worms,"  my  scientific  fly-caster, 
for  a  trout  will  often  bite  at  a  worm,  when  he  will  wink  all  day 


THE  ANDROSCOGGIN  LAKES.  63 

at  a  fly  and  never  rise  to  it  (trout  hare  their  fancies,  you  know), 
—  you  walk  out  to  tho  dam,  and  secure  an  eligible  place  for 
fishing. 

The  Middle  Dau,  entirely  rebuilt,  and  raised  eight  feet 
during  the  fall  and  winter  of  1880,  holds  back  the  waters  of 
MoLECHUNKAMUNK  and  Wblokennebacook  Lakes.  Weloken- 
NEBACOOK  is  sccoud  in  the  chain,  starting  from  Cambridge.  It 
is  1,456  feet  above  the  sea  level. 

Among  the  good  places  for  fishing  to  which  parties  resort 
when  making  their  head-quarters  at  the  Angler's  Retreat,  as 
the  camp  is  called,  are  the  Dam,  situated  a  few  rods  south  of  the 
house ;  the  Pond  in  the  River,  half  a  mile  from  the  house ; 
Smooth  Ledge,  three  miles  distant,  where  you  can  obtain  one  of 
the  finest  views  to  be  seen  on  the  river;  the  Hop  Yard,  three 
and  a  half  miles  from  the  house;  and  the  Cold  Spring,  four 
and  a  half  miles  from  the  camp,  on  the  north  side  of  the  river. 

With  all  these,  and  other  places,  your  guide  will  be  familiar, 
and  will  tell  you  the  best  time  of  day  to  visit  each  place. 

Between  Lake  Wblokennebacook  and  Lake  Umbagog  flows 
the  Rapid  River,  or  Five-Mile  Falls,  as  the  loggers  term  it, 
one  of  the  most  picturesque  streams  in  Maine,  and  from  the  bank 
of  the  river,  near  Forest  Lodge,  it  appears  to  its  best  advan- 
tage. Here  you  may  stand  and  drink  in  the  wild  beauty  of  the 
scene,  while 

"  Far  down,  through  the  mist  of  the  felling  river, 
Which  rises  up  like  an  incense  ever, 
The  splintered  points  of  the  crags  are  seen, 
,  With  water  howling  and  vexed  between, 
While  the  scooping  whirl  of  the  pool  beneath 
Seems  an  open  throat,  with  its  granite  teeth  I  " 

The  great  Northern  Diver,  or  Loon,  as  the  bird  is  commonly 
called,  is  a  yearly  habitue  of  this  and  the  other  lakes.  Speaking 
of  loons,  Theodore  Winthrop  says,  "No  being  has  ever  shot  a 
loon,  though  several  have  legends  of  some  one  who  has.  Sound 
has  no  power  to  express  a  profounder  emotion  of  utter  loneliness 
than  the  loon's  cry.  Standing  in  piny  darkness  on  the  lake's 
bank,  or  floating  in  dimness  of  mist  or  glimmer  of  twilight  on  its 
surface,  you  hear  this  wailing  note,  and  all  possibiUty  of  human 


64  FARRAR'S  ILLUSTRATED   GUIDE. 

tenancy  by  the  shore  or  human  voyaging  is  annihilated.  You 
can  fancy  no  response  to  this  signal  of  solitude  disturbed,  and 
again  it  comes  sadly  over  the  water,  the  despairing  plaint  of  some 
companionless  and  incomplete  existence,  exiled  from  happiness  it 
has  never  known,  and  conscious  only  of  blank  and  utter  want. 
Loon-skins  have  a  commercial  value ;  so  it  is  reported.  The  Ba- 
rabinzians  of  Siberia,  a  nation  '  up  beyond  the  River  Ob,'  tan 
them  into  water-proof  paletots  or  aquascutums.  How  they  catch 
their  loon,  before  they  skin  their  loon,  is  one  of  the  things  yet  to 
be  revealed  about  that  unknown  and  incomprehensible  realm." 

In  spite  of  Winthrop's  statement,  however,  I  have  known  of  a 
number  of  loons  being  shot  in  the  lake  region.  I  once  saw  one 
shot  on  Lake  Umbagog,  from  the  steamer  Diamond,  by  Luman 
Sargeant,  one  of  the  lake  guides.  It  was  killed  instantly  at  the 
fourth  fire  by  a  rifle-ball.  The  steamer  was  stopped,  Mr.  Sar- 
geant rowed  ofif  and  picked  up  the  bird,  and  brought  it  back  to  the 
boat.  On  examination  it  was  found  that  the  ball  went  directly 
through  its  head.  A  large  fish-hook  was  found  in  its  mouth,  just 
back  of  its  bill,  showing  that  some  time  or  other  the  loon  had  been 
fishing.  The  hook  was  rusty,  and  had  the  appearance  of  having 
been  in  the  bird's  mouth  a  long  time.  The  loon  was  given  to  a 
Boston  gentleman,  who  forwarded  it  to  the  city  to  have  it  prop- 
erly preserved.  The  plumage  of  these  birds  is  very  handsome, 
the  feathers  being  thick  and  close.  Their  color  is  pure  white  on 
the  breast,  and  mottled  green  and  black  on  the  neck.  Their 
wings  are  speckled  black  and  white.  A  person  must  be  careful 
in  capturing  one  when  it  is  only  wounded ;  for  a  loon  is  a  very 
powerful  bird,  and  will  fight  as  long  as  it  can  breathe.  They  will 
give  a  tremendous  bite  with  their  bill,  and  the  safest  way  to  handle 
one  is  to  get  a  firm  hold  of  his  neck,  near  his  head.  This  is  like 
putting  salt  on  a  pigeon's  tail ;  but  then,  if  you  don't  succeed  in 
doing  it,  you  need  not  tell  anybody  of  it. 

Samuel  Betton,  J.  F.  Merrill,  J.  H.  Rhodes,  and  several  others 
that  I  might  mention,  have  also  shot  loons  on  the  Andkoscoggix 
Lakes  within  the  past  few  years.  Thomas  Stearns,  a  young 
gentleman  from  Brooklyn,  N.Y.,  caught  a  young  loon  alive,  on  the 
large  Richardson  Pond,  one  night  in  August,  1878.  But  the 
queerest  loon  incident  I  ever  heard  or  knew  of  happened  at  Lakk 
MoLECHUirKAHUNK  during  the   summer  of  1877.     At  the  time 


66 


FARRAR'S    ILLUSTRATED   GUIDE. 


there  was  a  camping-out  party  tenting  near  the  mouth  of  the 
river.  One  morning,  one  of  the  number,  who  couldn't  hit  a  barn- 
door five  rods  distant,  was  amu.sing  himself  on  the  lake  siiore  at 
the  mouth  of  the  river,  with  a  rifle,  by  skipping  bullets  across  the 
water.  A  loon  was  .swimming  about  the  lake,  five  or  six  hundred 
yards  from  the  shore.  Suddenly  the  loon  dived,  and  while  he 
was  under  water,  the  marksman  sent  another  bullet  skipping 
across  the  lake,  which  was  as  smooth  as  a  mirror.  The  bullet 
struck  the  water  a  hundred  yards  from  shore,  ricochctting  two  or 
three  times,  and  at  a  distance  of  about  five  hundred  yards  went 
directly  through  the  neck  of  the  loon,  who  popped  up  his  head 
just  in  time  to  meet  his  fate,  killing  him  instantly.  I  consider 
this  about  the  luckiest  chance  shot  on  record,  and  the  story  is 
well  authenticated  by  several  eye-witnesses,  who  saw  him  shot 
and  examined  the  loon  after  he  was  brought  on  shore. 

The  Bethel  and  Lake  Umbagog  Route  properly  ends  at  the 
Middle  Dam,  as  from  there  one  can  take  the  steamers,  which 
call  twice  a  day,  and  go  on  up  or  down  t)ie  lake  as  they  see  fit. 
The  lakes  and  country  above  will  be  described  in  their  proper 
place. 


CHAPTER   V. 


|;kl  Irpnt's  ;|cm(l  and  InHowr   ||outc. 


FROM  BOSTON  TO  ANDOVER,  MAINE. 

HIS  route  is  one  of  tlie  shortest  and  most  di- 
rect approaclies  to  tlie  lakes.  You  may  go 
from  Boston  to  Portland  by  either  way,  as 
described  in  Chapter  III.,  then  take  the  Grand 
Trunk  Railroad  for  Bryant's  Pond,  which 
place  you  roach  at  8.30  P.M.  Alighting  from 
the  cars,  you  find  awaiting  j'ou  at  the  depot 
one  of  Tuttle's  four-horse  first-class  Concord 
coaches,  by  which  you  talvc  passage  for  Andovek,  21  miles 
distant. 

Those  wishing  to  stop  in  Bryant's  Pond  for  a  few  days,  and  try 
the  black  bass  fisliing  in  the  pond  near  the  railroad  station,  will 
find  excellent  acconnnodation  at  the  Gi-en  Mountain  House, 
directly  opposite  the  depot.  John  Bicknell  is  the  present  pro- 
prietor, and  under  liis  management  the  house  is  kept  belter  than 
it  has  been  for  years  before.  The  rooms  are  neat  and  clean,  pro- 
vided with  good  mattresses  and  spring-beds,  and  the  table  is  well 
furnished.  The  terras  are  .$2.00  per  day,  with  reduction  by  the 
week. 

The  Andover  Stage  Line  has  been  very  much  improved  for  the 
present  season.  A  fine  new  Concord  coach,  and  several  private 
carriages,  and  six  lieavy  horses,  have  been  added  to  the  property, 
making  tliis  one  of  the  best-equipped  stage  lines  in  tJie  State. 
With  two  Concord  coaches,  a  number  of  smaller  vehicles,  and 
plenty  of  good  horses,  the  company  are  prepared  to  transport  a 
large  number  of  passengers  this  summer,  with  safety  and  despatch. 
If  the  day  is  pleasant  don't  fail  to  procure  an  outside  seat,  if 
(67) 


THE  ANDROSCOGGIN  LAKES.  69 

you  can  get  one,  for  the  ride  is  lovely,  and  during  the  months  of 
June,  July,  and  August  you  will  reach  Andover  before 

"Darkness  casts  her  sable  mantle  down." 

What  is  more  exhilarating  than  a  ride  on  top  of  an  old-fashioned 
stage-coach,  drawn  by  four  spirited  horses,  and  managed  by  a 
good-natured  driver,  surrounded  as  you  are  by  an  agreeable  co- 
terie of  companions?  The  sweet-scented  aromas  of  field  and 
forest  wafted  in  your  face ;  the  dust  rolling  in  clouds  behind  you, 
like  the  smoke  of  a  locomotive ;  the  rattle  of  the  wheels ;  the 
bounce  over  some  inequality  in  the  road;  the  dash  on  a  down 
grade,  and  the  wild  gallop  up  the  next  hill ;  the  excitement  of 
passing  some  old  farm  wagon  in  the  narrowest  part  of  the  road ; 
the  shouting,  laughing,  and  joking  of  those  around  you ;  the 
"  Ahs  !  "  and  the  "  Ohs  !  "  that  are  safety-valves  to  your  wrought- 
up  feelings, —  all  combined  make  the  trip  an  oasis  in  the  desert  of 
life,  an  ever-welcome,  and  never-forgotten  memory  of  that  sum- 
mer's vacation  in  Maine. 

You  will  find  "  Deacon  "  Tuttle,  or  his  son  George,  good  whips 
and  pleasant  companions,  as  they  keep  in  stock  a  vast  number  of 
entertaining  stories,  which  they  are  not  at  all  backward  in  relating. 
For  a  first-class  story-teller  commend  me  to  a  New  England  stage- 
driver. 

The  road  turns  to  the  north-west,  and  we  drive  through  the  neat 
little  village  of  Bryant's  Pond, — apart  of  tlie  town  of  Woodstock; 
a  beautiful  landscape  unrolls  before  us,  and  just  at  the  right  time 
of  day  to  appreciate  all  of  its  wonderful  beautiee-  The  road  is 
hard  and  level ;  but  few  tiresome  hills  for  the  horses  to  climb,  it 
following  the  valleys  of  the  Androscoggin  and  Ellis  Rivers 
nearly  the  entire  distance,  and  you  are  consequently  at  ease  to 
enjoy  the  scenery. 

Close  to  the  road  are  the  fertile  meadows  of  the  interrale,  while 
in  the  distance  mountain  after  mountain  appears,  some  bold  and 
striking,  and  others  soft  and  gentle,  in  their  outline. 

You  will  be  pleased  with  the  neat  appearance  and  thrifty  aspect 
of  the  farms  along  the  road,  and  many  of  the  houses  are  superior 
to  those  usually  found  in  a  farming  country. 

Two  miles  distant  from  Bryant's  Pond  is  the  village  of  "Pin 
Hook,"  and  we  stop  at  the  local  post-offlce  a  moment  for  the  deliv- 


70  FARRAR'S  ILLUSTRATED   GUIDE  TO 

ery  of  the  mail.  Continuing  on,  the  stage  crosses  a  mill-stream, 
spanned  by  a  little  wooden  bridge,  the  road  now  bearing  slightly 
to  the  left. 

One  of  the  legends  of  this  locality  is,  that  the  village  derived 
its  name  from  the  fact  that  an  old  chap,  when  the  place  was  first 
settled,  used  to  fish  from  this  bridge,  and  catch  trout  from  the 
stream  with  a  pin-hook,  before  fancy  flies  and  six-ounce  rods 
were  thought  of. 

If  the  afternoon  is  pleasant  you  will  get  a  beautiful  sunset  dur- 
ing this  ride,  the  road  commanding  a  grand  and  picturesque  view 
of  mountain  ranges  nearly  the  entire  distance,  and  when  the  God 
of  Day  slowly  vanishes  behind  some  lofty  peak,  tinging  the  light 
clouds  which  float  lazily  in  the  sky  with  a  golden,  dreamy  light, 
and  throwing  shadows  from  base  to  summit  of  the  noble  old  hills 
by  which  you  are  surrounded,  you  may  perhaps  wonder  that  peo- 
ple should  visit  the  Old  World  to  view  scenery,  when  that  in  the 
New  is  unsurpassed. 

Occasionally  you  pass  over  some  rustic  bridge,  spanning  a 
small  stream  that  crosses  the  road,  its  sparkling  waters  and  bright 
sands  suggestive  of  trout,  and  the  murmur  of  whose  gentle  ripple, 
borne  to  your  ear  in  the  quiet  air  of  evening,  sounds  like  the  soft 
strains  of  ^olian  music. 

Before  reaching  Rumford  the  road  runs  for  several  rods  along 
a  high  ridge,  which  is  known  by  the  local  sobriquet  of  the 
Whale's  Back.  It  is  formed  of  sand,  and  is  just  wide  enough 
on  top  for  a  road ;  it  sets  in  a  level  plain,  some  eighty  feet  above 
the  other  land,  its  sides  being  steep  and  precipitous,  and  is  a  queer 
freak  of  nature. 

Just  before  reaching  the  village  of  Rumford  you  pass  a  road 
on  your  right  that  leads  to  Mexico  and  Dixfield,  and  passengers 
for  points  "down  the  river"  change  stages  at  this  corner. 

About  half-past  five  you  reach  the  Rumford  Hotel,  where 
horses  and  drivers  are  changed,  and  where  you  procure  supper. 
The  charge  is  fifty  cents  each,  and  they  give  you  a  very  good  meal 
for  your  money,  and,  after  your  ride,  you  have  the  appetite  to 
appreciate  it. 

About  three-quarters  of  an  hour  is  spent  for  supper  and  change 
of  team,  and  then  you  climb  aboard  the  stage,  the  driver  snaps 


THE  ANDROSCOGGIN  LAKES.  71 

his  whip,  and  away  you  rattle  down  the  slight  declivity  that  leads 
to  the  ferry  over  the  Androscoggin  River. 

Here  you  will  probably  meet  with  a  new  experience,  as  the 
river  is  crossed  by  means  of  a  rope  ferry,  very  few  of  which  are 
to  be  seen  in  the  North.  Our  artist  has  given  us  a  good  illustra- 
tion of  this  peculiar  kind  of  navigation. 

On  each  side  of  the  river  are  a  high  post  and  ladder,  something 
like  those  on  a  pile-driver.  A  heavy  hemp  cable  is  stretched 
across  the  river  from  the  top  of  these  two  posts.  The  ferry-boat, 
which  is  simply  a  common  flat-boat  decked  over,  is  fastened  to  the 
cable  by  two  smaller  ropes,  one  at  each  end  of  the  boat.  At  the 
end  of  the  smaller  cables  are  grooved  blocks,  containing  a  wheel, 
so  that  they  will  travel  back  and  forth  along  the  large  cable.  The 
boat  is  on  the  lower  side  of  the  cable,  and  is  propelled  entirely  by 
the  current.  The  boats  are  so  shallow  at  each  end  that  they  are 
run  up  on  the  banks  of  the  river,  and  teams  drive  off  without  any 
difficulty. 

Crossing  the  river,  the  stage  is  driven  up  a  little  ascent  to  the 
post-office,  where  the  mail  is  changed  and  express  matter  left,  and 
then  away  you  go  again. 

You  are  now  at  quite  a  height  above  the  river,  and  have  a 
pretty  view  of  the  stream,  where  the  Ellis  empties  into  it.  A  few 
rods  beyond,  the  road  divides,  one  branch  running  to  Andover  on 
the  east  side  of  the  river.  The  stage  follows  the  left-hand,  or 
western  side,  which  is  the  best  road,  and  you  cross  the  Ellis 
River  over  a  covered  bridge,  obtaining  a  view,  almost  a  mile  away, 
of  a  picturesque-looking  cliff,  on  the  left  side  of  the  road,  in 
which  a  horse's  head  is  formed  by  a  vein  of.  white  rock.  It 
reminds  one  of  the  "  White  Horse  "  in  North  Conway. 

For  the  rest  of  the  distance  you  follow  the  Ellis  River,  which  is 
scarcely  ever  out  of  sight,  as  it  twists  and  turns  among  the  beau- 
tiful meadows,  which  are  a  charming  feature  of  the  landscape  in 
this  part  of  the  country. 

On  the  left  may  be  seen  the  Lead  Mountain,  with  its  buildings 
on  top,  and  many  other  peaks  in  that  vicinity ;  the  mines  here 
were  worked  for  several  years,  but  were  finally  given  up,  from 
the  difficulty  in  getting  the  ore  down  the  mountain  and  to  market. 

Far  away  to  the  right  White  Cap  rears  its  huge  summit  to  the 
sky,  and  from  its  top  on  a  clear  day  Portland  la  plainly  to  be  seen. 


THE   ANDROSCOGGIN  LAKES.  73 

Farther  south  Mount  Zircon  rears  its  lofty  head,  the  highest 
mountain  in  that  locality.  At  its  base  is  a  celebrated  mineral 
spring,  and  on  its  summit  once  stood  a  large  hotel,  a  fashionable 
resort  in  summer  for  wealthy  people.  A  number  of  years  ago 
the  house  burned  down,  and  the  property  changing  hands,  it  has 
never  been  rebuilt. 

Continuing  on,  the  stage  soon  reaches  the  store  in  which  the 
South  Andover  post-office  is  located,  two  miles  from  Andover 
Corner.  The  mail  is  left  here,  and  with  but  a  moment's  stop  the 
horses  are  again  put  on  a  trot  for  the  last  two  miles,  or  the 
"home  stretch,"  as  the  drivers  sometimes  say.  Off  to  the  right 
before  us  we  obtain  a  view  of  Farmer's  Hill, — a  noted  lo- 
cality, —  and  numerous  other  mountains  whose  names  have  not 
been  handed  down  to  posterity. 

A  half  mile  from  the  hotels  you  pass  the  charming  residence 
of  Sylvanus  Poor,  Esq.,  on  the  left-hand  side  of  the  road;  it  is 
one  of  the  most  popular  of  the  summer  boarding-houses.  A  few 
rods  beyond  you  will  notice  the  Andover  Trotting  Park.  The 
houses  now  increase  in  number,  the  stage  rolls  along  a  wide,  level 
street,  and  in  a  few  moments  more  reaches  the  centre  of  the  vil- 
lage, and  leaves  passengers  at  French's  Hotel,  the  Andover 
House,  or  at  either  of  the  boarding-houses  kept  by  Cushman  and 
Clark.  The  houses  are  all  good,  and  need  no  especial  recom- 
mendation. 

At  Andover  you  stop  over  night,  securing  a  good  night's  rest, 
after  your  three  hours'  stage-ride.  In  the  morning  you  partake 
of  a  hearty  breakfast,  then  get  your  traps  together,  and  take  a 
seat  on  the  spring-board,  or  "buck-board,  "  as  the  natives  have  it, 
by  which  you  are  to  continue  your  journey.  For  mountain-rid- 
ing these  teams  cannot  be  excelled,  and  are  at  once  a  favorite  with 
all  classes,  ladies  taking  to  them  as  readily  as  gentlemen. 

These  vehicles  are  made  of  three  or  four  spruce  boards,  about 
twelve  feet  long  and  four  feet  wide,  fastened  to  dead  axles,  all 
the  spring  being  in  the  boards.  They  have  two  or  three  seats  on 
each,  which  are  box-shaped,  the  top  of  the  seat  lifting  up,  and 
serving  as  a  cover  for  the  box.  They  liave  covered  tops,  and  side 
coverings  that  roll  up  in  pleasant  weather.  Two  horses  are  at- 
tached to  them,  and  they  rattle  over  the  ground  at  a  lively  pace. 

A.  W.  &  F.  P.  Thomas  run  a  daily  team  between  Andover 


74  FAREAR'S  ILLUSTRATED   GUIDE. 

and  the  South  Akm  of  Lake  Welokennebacook,  from  the  time 
the  ice  goes  out  to  the  middle  of  October.  It  leaves  the  An- 
DOVER  House  at  half-past  eight  each  morning,  arriving  at  the 
South  Arm  at  noon,  in  time  for  dinner  at  the  Lakeview  Cot- 
tage, and  connection  with  steamers  Molechunkamunk  or 
Welokennebacook,  for  Middle  and  Upper  Dams,  Bemis 
Stream,  Haines*  Landing,  Indian  Rock,  and  Rangeley.  The 
local  fare  from  Bryant's  Pond  to  Andover  is  $1.50,  and  from 
Andover  to  the  South  Arm,  $1.50. 

A  few  days  may  be  advantageously  spent  in  Andover,  in  brook- 
fishing,  and  viewing  the  splendid  scenery  in  the  locality,  either  in 
going  to  or  coming  from  the  lakes.  The  proprietors  of  the  hotels 
are  familiar  with  the  location  of  all  the  trout-brooks,  and  will 
take  you  to  streams  where  a  good  day's  sport  is  the  rule  rather 
than  the  exception. 

Parties  leaving  Boston  at  night  by  Portland  steamers  can  take 
the  morning  train  between  Portland  and  Bryant's  Pond  (which 
from  June  1  to  October  1  is  a  fast  express),  and  reaching  Bry- 
ant's Pond  at  11  A.M.,  be  carried  through  to  the  South  Arm, 
reaching  the  lake  between  five  and  six  o'clock.  At  the  Lakeview 
Cottage  they  can  obtain  supper,  lodging,  and  breakfast,  and, 
leaving  the  Arm  at  7.30  the  next  morning,  arrive  at  the  Upper 
Dam  by  nine  o'clock,  thus  making  a  gain  of  about  six  hours  over 
the  all-rail  routes. 

By  making  the  trip  in  this  way  the  journey  between  Boston  and 
the  Androscoggin  Lakes  is  made  practically  in  one  day,  as  the 
night  on  the  steamer  may  as  well  be  spent  in  that  way  as  any  other. 

For  the  benefit  of  persons  visiting  the  Androscoggin  Lakes 
by  way  of  Andover,  we  publish  the  names  of  the  following  guides, 
whose  post-office  address  is  Andover,  Oxford  Co.,  Maine. 

Georob  Thomas,  Ferdinand  Thomas, 

Frank  P.  Thomas,  Samuel  Leonard, 

Milton  Cutting,  Charles  E.  Marston, 

Charles  Cutting,  Ezra  Morton, 

Eli  Cutting,  John  Hewey, 

George  Newton,  John  C.  Merrill, 

Harvey  Newton,  Gbeenleap  Avebill. 
John  Newton, 


CHAPTER  VI. 


Jrom  ^itioDcr  to  tl)c  ^rmof  t\)t  Cake. 


HE  ride  from  Andover  to  the 
Arm  of  the  Lake  is  very  pleasant. 
Leaving  the  hotel  the  road  runs 
down  to  the  Ellis  River,  which  is 
crossed  over  a  substantially  built 
covered  bridge,  then  turns  sharply 
to  the  riglit,  climbing  a  little  hill, 
and  makes  another  siiarp  turn, 
this  time  to  the  left ;  reaching  the 
top  of  this  hill,  you  have  a  mag- 
nificent view  of  Andover  and  the 
surrounding  country. 

White  Cap,  Lead  Mountain, 

'  Bai.d    Pate,     Dunn's      Notch, 

Farmer's  Hill,  Sawyer  Notch,  Blue  and  Sawyer  Mountains, 

a  large  part  of  the  Ellis  River  Valley,  and  various  otiier  places 

of  interest,  may  be  seen  from  this  point  in  the  road. 

The  horses  trot  gayly  along ;  you  soon  pass  the  last  house  on 
the  road  to  the  Arm,  and,  descending  a  hill,  you  cross  Black 
Brook,  over  a  little  wooden  bridge,  and  shortly  leave  the  county 
road,  which  continues  on  to  the  town  of  Byron. 

From  the  village  of  Andover  to  where  you  leave  the  Byron 
road  is  three  miles,  and,  turning  to  the  left,  you  enter  what  is 
called  the  Lake  road,  running  for  nine  miles  through  an  unsettled 
wilderness.  Years  ago  tiiis  road  was  rough  and  muddy,  but  of 
lute  years  a  large  sum  of  money  is  annually  spent  on  it,  and  it  is 
now  in  as  good  condition  as  any  ordinary  road  in  the  country. 
In  the  fall  of  1878  the  County  Commissioners  laid  out  the  road 
as  a  public  road,  and  assessed  the  land-owners  along  the  route  a 
IZ2] - 


THE   ANDROSCOGGIN   LAKES. 


sufficient  sum  to  make  the  road  first-class.  In  the  future  the 
road  will  not  be  excelled  by  any  in  the  county  or  State. 

The  trees  grow  close  to  the  road  on  either  side ;  there  are  no 
clearings,  and  you  can  only  get  a  peep  at  the  sky  by  looking 
directly  overhead ;  and  at  times  you  cannot  even  do  that,  as  the 
branches  of  some  of  the  venerable  monarchs  of  the  forest  meet 
above  your  head,  forming  a  beautiful  and  fantastic  archway,  com- 
pletely hiding  the  sky  and  sun. 

Arriving  at  Smith's  Mill,  you  stop  some  thirty  minutes  to  visit 
the  Devil's  Den,  Hermit  Falls,  and  Silvek  Ripple  Cascade. 
Crossing  the  sunny  glade  where  the  teams  are  halted,  you  walk 
down  the  path,  passing  a  spring  of  excellent  water,  cross  a  little 
rivulet,  and  ascend  a  hill,  where  you  reach  the  first  curiosity,  the 
Devil's  Den.  It  is  certainly  a  wonderful  place  and  a  queer  freak 
of  nature. 

The  den  is  a  large  excavation  in  the  granite  rock,  and  has  been 
formed  by  the  action  of  the  water  during  the  fearful  freshets  that 
take  place  in  that  region  in  spring,  assisted  occasionally  perhaps 
by  some  of  the  heavy  thunder-storms,  whose  powerful  electricity 
crumbles  the  edges  and  tears  off  pieces  of  the  rock,  which  are 
swept  away  by  the  rapid  current  of  the  freshet.  It  is  from  sixty  to 
eighty  feet  deep,  and  about  thirty  feet  across  the  top.  Formerly 
a  mill,  owned  by  a  man  named  Smith,  stood  over  it.  At  that 
time  the  waters  of  Black  Brook  emptied  into  the  Den  over  the 
wall  of  solid  rock  which  formed  the  back,  and  made  their  escape 
through  an  opening  in  the  rock  at  the  lower  end.  The  shape  of 
the  Den  inside  was  like  a  letter  U  turned  sideways,  with  the  bot- 
tom of  the  letter  towards  the  brook.  The  wheel  was  hung  in  the 
Den  under  the  mill,  and  so  near  the  precipice  over  which  the 
water  fell  as  to  be  driven  by  the  force  of  its  fall.  But  the  mill 
has  long  since  fallen  to  decay,  and  the  waters  of  Black  Brook 
have  been  turned  from  the  Den,  and  have  worn  a  new  channel 
through  the  rocks  a  few  yards  beyond.  The  bottom  of  the  Den  is 
now  partially  covered  with  rubbish  and  broken  timbers,  that  have 
fallen  in  as  the  building  has  succumbed  to  the  ravages  of  time  and 
the  elements.  Across  the  top  of  the  Den  wliere  the  mill  stood 
there  yet  remains  one  large  timber  that  spans  the  awful  chasm. 
Upon  this  one  may  walk  out,  and  get  a  better  view  of  the  gorge 
through  which  the  waters  escaped.     If  you  are  troubled  with  diz- 


78  FARRAR'S   ILLUSTRATED   GUIDE  TO 

ziness,  however,  you  had  better  keep  off  of  it,  as  a  fall  would  be 
very  likely  to  spoil  your  trout-fishing  at  the  lakes. 

Like  all  romantic  places  of  the  kind,  this  locality  has  its  legend. 
It  runs  thus :  — 

"  Many  years  ago,  a  man  by  the  name  of  Brown,  who  was  more 
of  a  huntef  and  trapper  than  anything  else,  came  down  to  An- 
dover  from  Canada.  After  stopping  in  the  village  a  few  weeks, 
he  came  out  here  in  the  wilderness,  and,  with  the  assistance  of 
some  of  the  village  people,  built  him  a  log-house.  At  that  time 
Indians  were  thick  about  the  lakes,  and  hunting  and  trapping  was 
anything  but  safe  business.  Here  Brown  lived,  miles  from 
other  houses,  without  any  companions  but  a  dog  and  a  horse. 
Occasionally  he  would  make  a  visit  to  the  town,  trade  his  furs  at 
the  stores  for  necessaries  in  the  way  of  groceries  and  ammunition, 
and  then  return  to  his  log-cabin,  not  to  be  seen  for  another  long 
spell.  One  winter  and  spring,  two  years  after  he  had  built  his 
cabin,  the  Indians  were  particularly  troublesome  and  daring,  and 
Brown  had  not  made  his  appearance  at  Andover  for  a  long  time. 
At  the  principal  store,  o^e  day,  a  number  of  the  villagers  had  ac- 
cidentally met,  and  were  wondering  what  had  become  of  the  eccen- 
tric hunter,  when  Brown's  dog  walked  into  the  store,  so  thin' and 
lank  they  scarcely  knew  him.  He  was  almost  famished,  and 
Mudge,  the  store-keeper,  gave  him  something  to  eat.  After  the 
dog  had  eaten  he  acted  very  strangely,  —  would  go  to  the  door 
and  look  out,  then  come  back,  and,  looking  the  men  wistfully  in 
the  face,  would  give  utterance  to  a  mournful  howl.  Those  pres- 
ent thought  something  had  happened  to  Brown,  for  the  dog  was 
never  known  to  come  to  the  village  before  alone.  After  talking 
the  matter  over,  they  raised  a  company  of  twenty  men,  and  the 
next  morning,  well  armed,  they  started  for  Brown's  cabin,  the 
dog  taking  the  lead,  just  as  if  he  understood  all  that  was  going 
on.  When  they  arrived  here  they  found  the  cabin  burned  to  the 
ground,  and  the  bones  of  Brown,  which  had  been  picked  clean  by 
the  wolves,  were  all  there  was  left  of  the  unfortunate  hunter. 
Near  by,  beneath  a  rudely  constructed  grave,  they  found  the 
remains  of  four  Indians,  showing  that  Brown  must  have  sold 
his  life  dearly.  They  dug  a  grave  and  buried  the  bones,  and 
then  returned  home,  Mudge  keeping  the  dog,  who  lived  for  some 


THE  ANDROSCOGGIN  LAKES.  79 

years  after  his  master's  death.  The  horse,  and  everything  else 
of  any  value,  the  redskins  had  taken  away  with  them." 

A  few  yards  beyond  the  Den,  and  you  reach  Black  Brook,  an 
excellent  trout  stream,  and  here  are  Heemit  Falls  and  Silver 
Ripple  Cascade. 

On  each  side  of  the  brook  are  heavy  masses  of  rock,  and  be- 
tween these  the  water  comes  foaming  and  swirling  down,  tumbling 
over  two  or  three  huge  rocks,  forming  the  falls,  and  then  plunges 
into  a  black-looking  pool  of  unfathomable  depth.  From  this  it 
pours  down  over  a  solid  bed  of  granite,  forming  a  lovely  cascade, 
and  empties  into  a  basin,  nearly  circular  in  shape,  and  some  thirty 
feet  wide.  It  is  not  unlike  Garnet  Pool,  near  the  Glen  House, 
but  is  larger,  and  more  beautiful  in  its  surroundings. 

An  hour  may  be  profitably  spent  in  this  charming  placn,  and 
one  unconsciously  lingers,  as  if  loath  to  tear  himself  away  from 
its  attracting  features. 

After  leaving  this  lovely  spot  the  road  rises'  fast,  the  elevation 
between  Andover  and  Lakeview  Cottage  at  the  South  Arm 
being  950  feet.  As  you  ride  along  through  the  leafy  solitudes 
your  ears  are  soothed  with  harmonious  sounds  arising  from  Black 
Brook,  as  its  waters  leap  with  a  merry  ripple  from  rock  to  rock, 
to  continue  their  flight  until  swallowed  up  by  the  Ellis,  into 
which  stream  they  empty. 

Soon  after  leaving  Smith's  Mill  occasional  glimpses  are  ob- 
tained, through  the  tops  of  the  trees,  of  Old  Blue,  whose  ragged 
sides  form  one  of  the  walls  of  the  Notch.  Three  miles  from  the 
Devil's  Den  the  road  winds  over  Cedar  Hill,  from  whose  sum- 
mit you  look  down  into  Black  Brook  Notch  ;  at  this  point  you 
have  a  splendid  view  of  Sawyer  and  Blue  Mountains,  which 
come  together  below  you,  leaving  just  room  to  allow  a  team  to 
pass  between  them,  but  not  without  the  hubs  of  the  wheels  scrap- 
ing on  the  rough  sides  of  the  rocks. 

On  your  right  a  frightful  precipice  looms  eight  hundred  feet 
above  you,  its  sides  seamed  and  scarred  by  the  war  of  the  ele- 
ments, and  in  many  places  it  looks  as  if  the  rocks  would  fall  into 
the  road  at  any  moment.  Slides  often  occur  here,  the  last  one 
being  in  the  spring  of  1880.  On  the  left  Sawyer  Mountain 
towers  into  the  air,  an  occasional  huge  cliff  peeping  out  from  the 
dense  mass  of  woods  with  which  it  is  covered.     This  is  a  great 


80 


FA KH Airs    ILLUSTRATED   GUIDE   TO 


place  for  thunder-showorti,  and  when  you 
arc  caiifjlit  in  one  you  do  not  forget  it  in 
a  hurry.  Tlie  sun  disainiear.-*,  and  the  sky 
is  covered  with  dull  leaden  clouds,  the 
rain  pours  in  torrents,  the  thunder  rolls 
heavily  from  mountain  to  mountain,  and 
the  fearful  flashes  of  lightning  that  illu- 
minate the  inky  clouds  are  all  a  fitting 
addition  to  the  grandeur  of  the  scene. 

At  the  foot  of  Cedar  Hill  a  sluice  dam 
is  thrown  across  the  hrook,  and  this  raises 
the  water  sufficiently  in  the  spring  to  float  j 
down  the  logs,  when  lumhering  operations  ; 
are  carried  on  here.  We  present  our  'i 
readers  with  an  engraving  of  Mount  Saw-  i 
VER  and  the  Sluice  Dam. 

After  leaving  the  Notch  the  road  winds 
a'ong  the  valley  of  Black  Brook,  the 
landscape  presenting  many  interesting 
features.  A  short  distance  frixh  the  dam 
^ou  reach  a  heautiful  crystal  sprinjf, 
w  Inch  bubbles  up  from  a  bed  of  sparkling 
<«cind,  from  under  an  inunense  boulder  on 
the  right-hand  side  of  the  road.  The 
warmest  day  in  sunmier  this  water  is  as 
told  as  ice,  and  all  travelers  to  the  lakes 
<stop  a  few  moments  to  obtain  a  draught  of 
this  invigorating  elixir.  This  spring  has 
been     appropriately"  termed     the     Cold 


Spring,  by  which  name  it  is  generally  known.      A  few  rods  b^- 


THE   x\NDKOSCOGGTN  LAKES.  81 

yoncl  the  spring  you  will  notice,  on  the  right-hand  side  of  the 
voad,  an  immense  hole  in  the  side  of  the  mountain,  whose  base 
V'ou  are  skirting.  It  is  near  the  summit  of  the  peak,  at  the  bot- 
tom of  an  overhanging  cliff.  It  has  been  christened  by  some  one 
(he  Devil's  Oven.  And  certainly  it  seems  that  if  his  Satanic 
Majesty  ever  has  occasion  to  do  any  baking  he  could  not  have 
chosen  a  more  fitting  place. 

About  two  miles  beyond  here  you  cross  a  small  brook,  that  is  a 
fery  good  trout  stream ;  and  a  short  distance  beyond  the  first 
brook  you  cross  another,  whose  waters  are  also  fished  for  trout 
(vith  good  success.  Between  these  two  brooks,  on  the  right-hand 
side  of  the  road,  stood,  some  years  ago,  a  birch  guide-board,  that 
marked  a  road  leading  to  the  old  Richardson  Farm.  This  old 
road  is  now  overgrown,  and  it  is  not  safe  for  a  stranger  to  at- 
tempt to  follow  it. 

Passing  the  second  brook,  a  short  ride  brings  you  to  a  foot-path 
that  leaves  the  main  road  on  the  left-hand  side,  crossing  the 
mountains  to  Andovek,  and  by  which  the  distance  between  the 
Hotels  and  the  Arm  op  the  Lake  is  shortened  some  three  miles. 
The  writer,  in  company  with  several  other  gentlemen  and  their 
i^uides,  walked  from  the  Aiui  or  the  Lake  to  the  village,  by  the 
mountain  path,  some  three  years  ago,  and  found  it  a  very  pleasant 
jaunt.  The  party  numbered  fourteen  men  and  two  dogs,  — the 
largest  party  that  had  ever  walked  out  over  the  mountains.  On 
our  way  one  of  the  guides  called  my  attention  to  a  huge  white 
birch-tree  near  the  path,  with  which  was  connected  a  story.  He 
said,  "  One  winter  a  man  from  the  village  had  attempted  to  walk 
out  to  the  lake  to  join  a  party  who  were  fishing  for  trout,  and  he 
lost  his  way.  The  snow  was  deep,  and  for  two  days  and  nights  he 
hunted  for  the  path  in  vain,  and,  finally,  believing  he  could  not 
survive  much  longer,  he  tore  out  a  leaf  from  a  pocket-diary,  and 
wrote  a  few  farewell  lines  to  his  wife  and  family,  which  he  fast- 
ened to  that  birch-tree.  After  that  he  wandered  aimlessly  about, 
and  accidentally  chanced  upon  the  path.  He  arrived  home  in  the 
middle  of  the  night,  half-starved  and  nearly  frozen,  but  soon  re- 
covered from  the  ill  effects  of  his  adventure.  The  next  spring 
I  found  the  paper  pinned  to  the  tree." 

In  walking  in  or  out  across  the  mountains,  one  has  a  fine  view 
of  Sawyer  Notch,  and  the  Moody  Ledge,  so  called  from  an 


j    82  FARRARS    ILLUSTRATED   GUIDE   TO 

I   accident  which  once  befell  a  man  of  tliat  name  while  after  wolves 

I   on  the  mountain. 

I       One  evening  Moody,  and  several  others  who  were  in  the  viein- 

'  ity,  hoard  the  howling  of  wolves  on  the  mountain  above  the  ledge. 
They  .started  up  ths  mountain,  intending  to  make  it  hot  for  the 
wolves.     Moody  led  the  way,  and,  when  just  iil)ove  the  ledge,  a 


Natural  Arch,  Lake  Roai!,  C  Township,  Me. 

small  tree  that  hv  had  hold  of  gavo  way,  and  before  he  cotild  t-ateh 
at  anything  else  down  he  went.  He  .struck  first  on  a  little  shelf 
of  the  ledge  about  a  third  of  the  way  down,  which  broke  his  fall 
and  some  of  his  bones  at  the  same  time.  Refore  he  could  secure 
himself,  over  he  went  again,  and  landed  about  a  third  further 
down,  on  a  little  spur  projecting  from  the  main  precipice,  upon 


THE   ANDROSCOGGIN  LAKES.  83 

which  grew  a  few  small  bushes.  Before  he  could  get  hold  of 
these,  he  again  fell,  striking  heavily  at  the  bottom  of  the  rock. 
His  companions  made  a  stretcher  and  took  him  out  to  the  village. 
A  doctor  was  called,  and  it  was  found  that  the  unfortunate 'man 
had  broken  both  his  arms  and  legs,  and  his  collar-bone,  and  from 
a  fearful  cut  on  his  head  some  of  his  brains  were  oozing.  Yet,  in 
spite  of  this,  he  managed  to  get  well,  went  to  sea,  and  was 
drowned.  This  is  no  mere  fancy  sketch,  but  the  facts  are  sub- 
stantially as  we  have  written  them,  and  there  are  men  still  living 
in  Andover  who  helped  bring  Moody  out  of  the  woods.  But  the 
wonderful  circumstances  of  the  case  bring  to  mind  the  old  adage, 
"  A  man  who  is  born  to  be  drowned  will  not  be  hanged." 

Between  the  mountain  path  and  the  Arm  nothing  occurs  worthy 
of  special  mention ;  a  few  minutes'  ride  brings  you  in  sight  of  the 
lake ;  the  team  is  driven  to  the  steamboat  wharf  a  few  rods  from 
Lakeview  Cottage,  and  you  bid  farewell  to  the  buckboard. 

The  Richardson  (Rangeley)  Lakes  Transpohtation  Co., 
to  provide  for  their  fast-increasing  travel  at  the  lakes,  have  built 
an  elegant  new  steam  yacht,  the  Molechunkamunk,  and  placed 
it  on  the  Androscoggin  Lakes.  It  will  run  in  connection  with 
the  Welokennebacook,  between  the  South  Arm  and  Upper 
Dam,  touching  at  the  usual  landings.  When  not  otherwise  en- 
gaged it  can  be  hired  by  private  parties.  The  boat  is  built  in  a 
superior  manner,  and  furnished  with  a  steel  boiler,  and  other 
fittings   of  equal   excellence. 

The  company  also,  during  the  spring  and  summer  of  1882, 
erected  a  neat  little  hotel,  three  stories  and  a  half  high,  at  the 
South  Arm.  The  house  is  called  Lakeview  Cottage,  and  is 
pleasantly  located  on  the  lake  shore,  near  the  steamboat  landing, 
and  commands  a  very  fine  and  extensiTe  view  up  the  lake.  It 
has  wide  piazzas  on  all  sides  ;  that  fronting  the  lake  being  on  the 
second  story  of  the  house,  and  for  rest  and  promenade  they  can- 
not but  be  appreciated  by  the  guests  of  the  hotel.  The  upper 
story  is  finished  in  wood,  sheathed  and  oiled;  the  lower  stories 
are  plastered.  All  the  floors  are  of  hard  wood  finished  in  oil. 
The  hotel  is  well  furnished,  the  sleeping-rooms  being  provided 
with  the  best  spring-beds  and  hair  mattresses  that  money  could 
buy,  and  in  this  respect  the  house  is  not  equalled  by  any  in  the 
lake  region,  excepting  the  Lakeside,  at  the  foot  of   Umbagog 


84  FARRAR'S    ILLUSTRATED   GUIDE. 

Lake,  in  CAAfBRiDOE,  which  hotel  also  belongs  to  the  com- 
pany. 

A  telegraph  line  runs  from  South  Arm  to  Boston  via  Andover, 
Byrant's  Pond,  and  Portland,  the  Lake  office  being  in  the  hotel. 
The  Bryant's  Pond  and  Andover  Route  is  the  only  approach  to 
the  lake  region  having  telegraph  communication  its  entire  length, 
—  a  fact  that  business  men  must  appreciate.  Messages  can  be  sent 
from  Indian  Rock,  Richardson's  Hotel,  Upper  Dam  or  Middle 
Dam,  by  the  morning  boats,  reaching  the  South  Arm  at  noon,  and 
by  evemng  be  received  in  almost  any  part  of  the  United  States. 

The  rates  at  Lakevikw  Cottage  are  §2.00  per  day;  dinners  50 
cents  each.  All  the  eleeping-rooms  in  the  house  but  two  are 
corner  rooms,  and  are  unusually  pleasant  on  that  account.  Al- 
though the  South  Arm  is  more  free  from  flies  and  mosquitoes 
than  many  points  in  the  lake  region,  the  Company  have  provided 
the  hotel  with  the  finest  wire  screens  manufactured,  for  the  win- 
dows and  outside  doors,  and  each  sleeping-room  is  furnished  with 
a  lai'ge  mosquito  canopy,  surrounding  the  entire  bed,  for  use  dur- 
ing fly-time,  so  that  guests  can  stop  at  the  house^ith  some  degree 
of  comfort. 

The  table  will  be  supplied  with  the  best  that  the  local  markets 
afford,  and  no  pains  will  be  spared  by  the  Company  to  make  the 
stay  of  guests  at  the  Lakeview  pleasant  in  every  respect. 

Especial  attention  has  been  paid  to  drainage,  and  in  this  respect 
the  hotel  cannot  be  surpassed  by  any  in  the  country.  Pure 
spring  water  is  brought  into  the  house  and  is  used  for  all 
purposes. 

The  fishing  at  the  South  Arm  from  the  time  the  ice  goes  out, 
up  to  about  the  middle  of  July,  is  as  good  as  at  any  other  point 
in  the  lake  region,  and  trout  weighing  from  half  a  pound  to  five 
pounds  are  taken  there.  The  company  have  bought  a  number  of 
new  row-boats  the  present  season,  and  these  may  be  hired  from 
the  manager  of  the  hotel  for  fishing  and  other  purposes. 

Gentlemen  visiting  the  lakes  accompanied  by  their  families 
will  find  the  Lakeview  a  very  desirable  house  to  stop  at,  on  ac- 
count of  its  home-like  appearance,  and  the  inducements  it  offers 
for  rest  and  pleasure.  Ladies  and  young  people  can  here  indulge 
in  boating  with  less  danger  than  at  any  other  point  on  the  lakes, 
as  there  are  several  coves  and  bays,  sheltered  by  islands  and  the 


8() 


FARRAKH    ILLUSTRATED    GUIDE. 


mainland,  always  free  from  rough  water.  There  arc  also  fine 
chances  for  hathing  but  a  short  distance  from  the  house. 

There  are  also  pleasant  walks  in  the  vicinity,  offering  a  chance 
for  lovers  of  woodland  patlis  to  take  any  amount  of  pedestrian 
exercise;  good  trout  streams,  furnishing  brook  trout  in  abun- 
dance, arc  within  two  miles  of  the  house.  The  steamers  leave  the 
hotel  for  points  up  the  lake  at  7.00  .A.M.,  and  1.00  P.M.,  return- 
ing at  noon  and  .").00  P.M. 

In  addition  to  the  telegraph  there  is  a  daily  mail  to  the  house 
from  Andover,  and  also  from  points  up  the  lake.  Parties  wish- 
ing to  order  rooms  in  advance  can  do  so  by  mail  or  telegraph, 
addressing  "  Manager  Lakeview  Cottage,"  South  Arm,  Ando- 
ver, Oxford  Co.,  Maine. 


^ 


CHAPTER  VII. 


Jfrom   tf}e  ^outij  ^rm    to  t\)t  Slpper    I9am. 


a*:' 


NE    of   tlie   new  steamers  Welo- 

KENNAHACOOK     OF     MOLECHtTNKA- 

MUNK  makes  two  trips  daily  be- 
tween the  South  Arm  and  the 
Tpper  Dam  Landing,  touching 
each  way  at  the  Middle  Dam. 
The  steamer  leaves  the  South 
Arm  at  7.00  A.M.,  and  1.00  P.M., 
and  the  Middle  Dam,  at  7.30 
A.M.,  and  2.00  P.M.,  arriving  at 
the  Upper  Dam  Landing  at  8.30 
A.M.,  and  3.00  P.M. 

Embarking  on  the  steamer  you  find  it  an  agreeable  change  after 
your  ride.  Leaving  tlie  wharf  the  boat  gUdes  up  the  lake,  the 
whisstle  severing  the  last  connection  between  yourself  and  the 
outer  world.  The  distance  from  the  South  Arm  to  the  Middle 
Dam,  where  the  steamer  makes  her  first  landing,  is  four  miles. 
Tlie  sail  from  here  to  the  L'pper  Dam  Landing  is  delightful. 

A  short  distance  above  the  wharf,  a  little  way  beyond,  you  pass 
on  the  right  hand  Lakeview  Cottage,  cosily  nestled  under  a 
mountain  but  a  few  steps  from  the  lake ;  on  the  left  or  western 
side  of  the  lake  you  will  notice  a  small  opening  leading  to  an  in- 
let behind  an  island  ;  this  place  is  known  as  Poke-Logan.  On 
the  same  side,  about  a  mile  from  the  wharf,  you  pass  another 
little  cove  known  as  Saint's  Re.st.  Beyond  this  is  Loon  Bay. 
A  mile  above  the  wharf,  on  the  right  (eastern  shore),  you  pass  a 
sand  spit,  on  which  grow  a  few  ragged  pines,  known  as  Bailey's 
Point.  Loon  Island  (a  sunken  reef,  which  is  not  visible  at  the 
highest  stage  of  water)  is  passed  just  above  the  point,  and  a  half 
mile  farther  the  rocky  shores  of  Spirit  Island  are  noticed.   Two 

m 


THE   ANDROSCOGGIN   LAKES.  89 

weather-beaten  pines,  long  shorn  of  their  foliage,  adorn  the  upper 
part  of  the  island,  which  is  otherwise  covered  by  a  growtli  of 
white  birch.  A  weather-beaten-looking  point,  known  as  Hakd- 
ScRABBLE,  next  attracts  attention  on  the  right.  This  has  always 
been  the  terror  of  oarsmen,  when  pulling  up  the  lake  against  the 
heavy  north-west  winds  that  prevail  a  great  part  of  the  time  dur- 
ing June  and  September.  Many  a  ' '  hard-scrabble  "  has  the  writer 
had,  years  ago,  when  trying  to  pass  the  point  in  a  row-boat.  In  a 
north-west  gale  the  sea  runs  very  heavy  off  this  point,  making  the 
passage  on  some  days  dangerous  for  small  boats.  On  all  sides  the 
mountains,  thickly  wooded,  descend  to  the  water,  the  shores  curv- 
ing and  twisting  in  irregular  lines.  As  you  pass  Hard-Scrabble 
tlie  lake  opens  to  its  fullest  width  before  you,  and  far  in  the  north, 
across  the  mountains  at  the  head  of  the  lake,  is  seen  the  wedge- 
shaped  summit  of  Mount  Dustan,  also  the  highest  peak  of  old 
AziscoHos,  the  monarch  of  the  Magalloway. 

Welokennebacook  is  one  of  the  prettiest  lakes  of  the  Andros- 
coggin chain.  Seen  under  any  aspect,  its  waters  slightly  ruffled 
by  a  gentle  south  wind,  or  stirred  into  billowy  waves,  with  frothy 
caps,  by  a  north-wester,  or  entirely  placid  when 

"  The  Bolcran  pines  along  its  shore, 
The  firs  wliich  hang  its  gray  roclss  o'er, 
Arc  painted  on  its  glassy  floor," 

it  is  beautiful,  and  will  hold  a  place  among  your  pleasant  memo- 
ries. 

As  you  cross  from  Hakd-Sckabble  to  the  Middle  Dam  the 
view  behind  you,  looking  toward  the  Arm,  ia  very  fine.  It  re- 
sembles the  head  of  Loch  Katrine,  in  Scotland,  only  the  scene  is 
more  beautiful.  Nearing  the  Middle  Dam,  we  obtain  a  fine  view 
of  the  New  Middle  Dam  Camp,  standing  back  a  few  rods  from 
the  shore,  and  fronting  tlie  lake.  As  Ave  run  in  to  the  wharf  we 
pass  EiFLE  Point,  and  the  "Hun,"  the  outlet  of  the  lakes,  on  the 
left.  The  steamer  arrives  at  the  Middle  Dam  at  half-past  one. 
A  few  minutes'  stop  only  is  made  here,  and  again  the  fasts  are 
cast  off,  the  whistle  sounds  the  departure,  and  we  are  under  way 
for  the  LIrrER  Dam  Landing,  eight  miles  distant. 

Our  course  lays  diagonally  across  tl)c  lake,  and  we  pass  Jack- 
son Point,  midway  between  the  wharf  and  tlie  Narrows.     As  we 


90 


FAKHAH'S    ILLISTRATEI)    GUIDE   TO 


enter  tlic  passage  connectinf?  the  lakes  you  pass  Portland  Point 
on  tlie  right,  and  Boston  Point  on  the  left.  A  range  of  moun- 
tains, known  as  the  Farm  RiD«iK,  extends  along  tlie  entire  eastern 
shore  of  the  lower  lake  and  the  Narrows,  and  finally  joins  the 
Bemis  Mountain  Uanok  at  tlie  foot  of  Moosellcmagcntic 
Lake. 


Wooding  up  on  Lake  Welokennebacook. 

Looking  hack  from  the  mouth  of  the  Narrows  you  have  one  of 
the  finest  mountain  views  to  he  ohtained  anywhere  in  the  lake 
region.  Tn  the  soutli  Bam>  Pate, — a  familiar  acquaintance  to 
those  who  have  heen  in  .Vndover,  —  and  Speckled  Mountain. 
may  he  seen  forming  tlie  walls  of  Grafton  Notch.  In  the 
south-west,  nearly  on  a  line  with  the  old  Middle  Dam  Camp,  ap- 
pear several  of  the  White  Mountain  peaks :  Washington,  Jefferson, 


THE   ANDKOSCOGGIN  LAKES.  91 

and  Adams  being  the  only  ones  visible.  The  view  down  the 
lake  from  the  foot  of  the  Nakrows  is  unsurpassed  by  any  similar 
landscape  in  the  country.  The  Narrows  are  two  miles  long,  and 
from  a  few  rods  to  half  a  mile  wide.  In  some  places  the  rocks 
are  very  thick,  but  are  not  troublesome  except  late  in  the  season, 
when  the  water  is  low.  The  sail  through  this  narrow  strait  is 
quite  a  change  from  the  lake  ;  and,  although  the  scene  differs  from 
that  below,  it  is  still  as  charming  as  ever.  One  of  the  peculiar 
features  of  the  Narrows  is  the  wall  of  rock  running  along  the 
northern  shore,  not  visible,  however,  in  extreme  high  water.  It 
resembles  the  stone  walls  on  a  farm ;  and  at  first  sight  one  would 
Jilmost  imagine  that  it  had  been  built  purposely.  A  very  amus- 
ing story  occurs  to  me  in  connection  witli  this  rocky  wall. 

Some  years  ago  a  party  of  ladies  and  gentlemen  was  going  up 
the  lakes,  and  one  of  the  ladies  asked  the  only  gentleman  of  the 
party  who  had  visited  the  lakes  before,  what  that  wall  was  for, 
she  supposing  it  to  have  been  built.  He  gravely  told  her  that 
several  years  before  the  Indians  had  built  that  wall  to  prevent  the 
bull-frogs  from  jumping  out  on  the  land  and  frightening  the  deer. 
The  lady  took  his  statement  for  fact,  and,  a  few  years  afterwards, 
while  at  a  party  in  New  York  city,  she  was  relating  to  a  little  knot 
of  interested  listeners  the  story  of  her  trip  to  the  Androscoggin 
Lakes  ;  "  and  the  funniest  thing  I  learned  there,''  said  she,  "  was 
that  the  Indians  had  built  a  wall  along  the  Narrows  to  prevent  the 
bull-frogs  from  jumping  out  on  the  land  and  frightening  the  deer." 
The  gentleman  who  had  given  her  that  wonderful  piece  of  in- 
formation was  also  at  the  party,  and  happened  to  overhear  her 
story.  He  could  not  help  laughing,  and  attracted  the  attention  of 
the  lady,  who  saw  from  the  expression  in  his  face  that  something 
was  wrong.  "  I  am  sure  you  told  me  so  !  "  she  exclaimed.  "  I 
acknowledge  that,  madam,"  he  replied;  "  but  I  did  not  expect 
you  to  accept  the  statement  as  a  literal  fact;  "  and  the  little  circle 
of  friends  joined  in  a  laugh  at  the  expense  of  the  fair  story-teller. 
Deer  are  sometimes  seen  on  the  shores  at  the  lower  part  of  the 
Narrows,  there  being  very  good  feeding-ground  for  them  for  half 
a  mile  on  each  side. 

As  you  approach  Lakk  Molechunkamunk,  you  pass  Metalic 
Point  on  your  right.  Here  is  a  splendid  sand  beach  and  a  fine 
chance  for  bathing.     The  chance  for  bathing  is  as  good  as  ever ; 


THE   ANDROSCOGGIN   LAKES.  93 

but  since  the  raising  of  the  Middle  Dam  the  beach  is  under  water 
most  of  the  time.  During  the  fall  fishing  fair-sized  trout  are  often 
found  oft' this  point.  "Old  MetaJuk,"  an  Indian  chief,  for  whom 
tliis  point  was  named,  lived  here  with  his  squaw  for  many  years, 
and  the  place  has  quite  a  romantic  history;  the  story  is  too  long 
to  tell  here,  but  it  may  be  found  in  a  book  entitled  "Eastward 
Ho  !  "  that  can  be  obtained  at  any  bookstore.  A  path  leads  up  from 
Metalic  Point  to  a  clearing,  where  used  to  stand  two  old  barns, 
often  made  use  of  for  shelter  by  persons  who  were  camping  out. 
The  barns  were  taken  down  in  the  winter  of  1877,  and  used  in  the 
construction  of  the  new  building  at  the  Middle  Dam.  They  have 
long  been  a  guide  to  the  voyager  up  and  down  the  lakes,  and  it 
will  be  regretted  by  many  that  this  ancient  landmark  has  been 
removed.  Several  summers  ago  the  writer  of  this  book  and  a 
party  of  friends  were  encamped  at  the  Hichardson  Farm,  as  the 
place  is  called,  for  two  weeks,  and  found  it  a  very  pleasant  spot. 
Theodore  Winthrop  has  thus  written  of  this  lake  :  — 

"  As  evening  came,  the  sun  made  another  effort,  Avith  the  aid  of 
west  winds,  at  the  mist.  The  sun  cleft,  the  breeze  drove.  Sud- 
denly the  battle  was  done,  victory  easily  gained.  We  were  cheered 
by  a  gush  of  level  sunlight.  Even  the  dull  gray  vapor  became  a 
transfigured  and  beautiful  essence.  Dull  and  uniform  it  had  hung 
over  the  land;  now  the  plastic  winds  quarried  it  and  shaped  the 
whole  mass  into  individuals,  each  with  its  character.  To  the 
cloud-forms,  modeled  out  of  formlessness,  the  winds  gave  life  of 
motion,  sunshine  gave  life  of  light,  and  they  hastened  through  the 
lower  atmosphere,  or  sailed  lingering  across  the  blue  breadths  of 
mid-heaven,  or  dwelt  peacefully  aloft  in  the  region  of  the  cirri ; 
and  whether  trailing  gauzy  robes  in  flight,  or  moving  stately,  or 
dwelling  on  high  where  scope  of  vision  makes  travel  needless, 
they  were  still  the  brightest,  the  gracefulest,  the  purest  beings 
that  Earth  creates  for  man's  most  delicate  pleasure. 

"  When  it  cleared,  —  when  it  purveyed  us  a  broadening  zone  of 
blue  sky  and  a  heavenful  of  brilliant  cloud-creatures,  we  were 
sailing  over  Lake  Mollychunkamug.  Fair  MoUychunkamug  had 
not  smiled  for  us  until  now  ;  — now  a  sunny  grin  spread  over  her 
smooth  cheeks.  She  w  as  all  smiling,  and  presently,  as  the  breeze 
dimpled  her,  all  a  '  snicker '  up  into  the  roots  of  her  hair,  up 
among  her  forest-tresses.     Mollychunkamug!     Who   could    be 


m 


FAUKAH-.S    ILLUSTUATEl)   GUIDE   TO 


Riigfht  bnt  ffay,  gay  even  to  the  farcical,  when  on  such  a  name?  Is 
it  In<lian?  HewiUlered  Indian  we  deem  it,  —  transmogrified  some- 
what from  Hitoriginai  s«oimd  by  the  fonil  ima!,'ination  of  some  lum- 
berman, findinpr  in  it  a  sweet  memorial  of  liis  Mary  far  away  in 
tlie  kitchens  of  the  Kennebec,  his  Mary  so  rotund  of  blooming 
cheek,  his  Mollv  of  the  ehunkv  nniir.     To  him  whotrnlv  loves,  all 


fk 


Lake  Molechunkamunk  from  Metalic  Point. 

Naluro  is  filUnl  with  Amiiryliidian  echoes.  Every  sight  and  every 
sound  rtiall  her  who  ncid  nut  be  recalled,  to  a  heart  that  has 
never  dislodged  hi-r. 

"  We  lingered  over  our  interview  with  Mollyehunkamug.     She 
may  not  be  numbered  among  the  great  beauties  of  the  world; 


THE   ANDROSCOGGIN   LAKES.  95 

nevertheless  she  is  an  attractive  squaw,  —  a  very  honest  bit  of 
flat-faced  prettiness  iii  the  wilderness." 

About  three  miles  from  the  clearing  is  a  sheet  of  water  called 
Metalic  Pond,  which  is  a  great  place  for  game.  Ducks  of  sev- 
eral kinds,  deer  and  caribou,  and  sometimes  moose,  are  quite 
plenty  about  the  shores  of  this  pond.  A  trail  runs  from  the  clear- 
ing to  this  pond.  It  starts  just  beyond  where  the  barns  stood,  and 
follows  up  the  brook  on  the  right-hand  side  for  some  distance. 
When  you  reach  the  place  where  the  brook  divides,  follow  the 
left-hand  branch  and  you  will  reach  the  pond.  But  the  path  is 
overgrown  with  bushes  in  many  places,  and  you  will  find  it  a  hard 
jaunt.  A  little  above  Metalic  Point  a  stream  runs  into  the 
lake,  known  as  Metalic  Brook.  This  is  one  of  the  best  trout- 
streams  about  the  lakes,  and  fish  are  taken  in  it  weighing  from 
half  a  pound  to  two  pounds.  It  furnishes  excellent  sport  in  July 
and  August,  a  time  when  the  fishing  is  dull  on  the  lakes.  The 
places  to  secure  the  larger  fish  are  several  pools  that  are  situated 
quite  a  distance  up  the  brook,  about  five  miles  from  its  mouth,  on 
the  right-hand  branch.  Gentlemen  who  have  fished  this  brook 
have  usually  been  very  successful  at  these  deep  holes. 

Passing  this  stream,  you  will  notice  Black  Point  on  the  right. 
This  was  formerly  thickly  wooded,  but  Mr.  Whitney  had  it 
cleared,  in  order  to  obtain  a  more  extended  view  from  his  camp. 
Beyond  the  point,  bur  course  lies  between  Ship  Island  on  the 
right,  and  Half  Moon  Island  on  the  left,  both  of  which  are  now 
mostly  submerged  a  good  part  of  the  time.  Beyond  the  Islands, 
to  your  right,  can  be  seen  Camp  Whitney,  situated  in  a  charming 
locality,  at  the  mouth  of  Mosquito  Brook  which  empties  into  the 
lake.  In  the  spring  and  summer  small  trout  are  taken  a  short 
distance  up  this  brook.  During  September  the  fishing  ofl"  the 
mouth  of  the  brook  is  generally  excellent.  In  the  month  of 
December,  a  year  or  two  ago,  Harvey  Newton,  of  Andover,  who 
was  then  in  charge  of  Camp  Whitney,  shot  a  caribou  that  was 
swimming  across  the  lake,  and  still  later  in  the  season  he  saw  a 
herd  of  nineteen  oq  the  ice  near  the  camp. 

A  few  years  ago.  Captain  Cole,  the  old  and  valued  Superin- 
tendent of  Camp  Whitney,  stepped  out  on  the  piazza  one  morning, 
and  was  surprised  to  see  a  magnificent  caribou  walk  out  of  the 
woods  on  the  point  above  the  mouth  of  Mosquito  Brook.     The 


THE  ANDROSCOGGIN   LAKES.  97 

animal  stood  upon  the  shore  a  moment,  looking  about  cautiously, 
and  then  stepped  into  the  water  and  waded  across  the  mouth  of  the 
brook.  He  followed  the  sand-bar  at  the  entrance,  which  was  cov- 
ered with  water  about  two  feet  deep.  Reaching  the  beach  directly 
in  front  of  the  camp,  he  paced  leisurely  along,  stooping  occasion- 
ally to  look  around.  This  was  too  much  for  the  captain.  To  be 
defied  in  this  manner  by  one  of  the  largest  caribou  he  had  ever 
seen  was  more  than  human  flesh  and  blood  could  endure.  The 
captain  hurried  into  the  house,  and  upstairs,  where  at  that  time 
unfortunately  the  fire-arms  all  were,  caught  up  a  rifle,  hastily  loaded 
it,  and  rushed  down  to  the  piazza.  But  the  game  had  flown,  or, 
in  other  words,  walked  off",  and  the  last  the  captain  saw  of  the 
animal  was  when  he  turned  partly  round,  just  on  the  edge  of  the 
woods  south  of  the  clearing,  and  shook  his  head,  as  much  as  to  say, 
"  Good  day,  sir !  Did  you  think  I  was  such  a  fool  as  to  stand  on  the 
beach  until  you  were  ready  to  shoot  me?"  The  captain  sighed, 
stepped  back  into  camp,  and  set  the  rifle  behind  the  door,  where  it 
could  be  reached  a  little  quicker  in  future.  The  next  day  the 
captain  and  myself  examined  the  print  of  the  animal's  hoofs  on  the 
beach,  and  found  they  would  measure  over  a  foot  from  the  back 
part  of  the  dew  claw  to  the  front  part  of  the  lioof. 

Camp  Whitney  fronts  the  lake  and  stands  about  eight  rods  from 
shore.  From  it  the  eye  takes  in  the  whole  upper  part  of  the 
lake,  with  its  winding  and  irregular  shores.  The  building  is  thirty 
by  fifty  feet  on  the  ground,  two  stories  and  a  half  high,  and  cov- 
ered with  a  sharp  pitch  roof.  An  eight-feet  wide  piazza,  with  its 
sloping  roof,  extends  the  entire  distance  in  front,  and  on  the  south 
side,  furnishing  a  delightful  place  for  promenading  and  lounging. 

In-doors,  on  the  lower  floor,  in  front,  is  the  sitting  and  dining- 
room  combined,  a  generous  apartment  over  twenty-eight  feet 
square.  A  space  five  feet  wide,  directly  back  of  the  sitting-room, 
is  divided  into  a  closet,  a  pantry,  and  stair-way  leading  to  the 
chambers  on  the  second  floor,  all  of  which  are  accessible  from  the 
sitting-room.  The  kitchen  takes  up  the  remainder  of  the  first 
floor.  There  is  also  an  excellent  cellar.  On  the  north  side  of 
the  sitting-room  is  an  enormous  brick  fireplace,  that  will  take  in 
at  one  mouthful  a  good  half  cord  of  wood.  The  room  is  filled 
with  comfortable,  and  what  in  some  cases  might  be  termed  luxu- 
rious, furniture  for  a  camp  in   the  backwoods.     On  one  side  is  a 


98  FARRAR'S  ILLUSTRATED  GUIDE   TO 

well-filled  library,  containing,  besides  works  of  fiction,  travel,  and 
adventure,  all  of  the  best  known  books  on  sporting  matters. 
Over  the  fireplace  is  a  rack  made  of  deer's  feet,  elegantly 
mounted,  on  which,  in  the  fishing-season,  the  rods  are  hung  when 
not  in  use,  and  the  walls  are  decorated  with  pictures  and  sets  of 
mounted  deer  and  caribou  horns.  The  whole  camp  is  plastered, 
and  is  painted  inside  and  out.  In  the  fall  of  1881  Mr.  Whitney 
erected  near  the  main  camp  a  neat  little  cottage  for  his  guides 
and  servants,  a  store-house  and  woo'^-house.  The  land  south  of 
the  camp  was  put  in  an  improved  condition  by  a  landscape  gar- 
dener, who  made  several  flower-beds,  and  set  out  a  number  of 
ornamental  trees  and  shrubs.  A  well-filled  ice-house  and  a 
large  new  boat-house,  containing  half-a-dozen  boats  of  various  de- 
scriptions, stand  near  the  camp.  Mr.  Whitney  has  also  a  very 
handsome  centre-board  cat-rigged  sail-boat,  that  has  proven  a 
very  fast  craft  for  one  of  her  size.  A  trail  through  the  woods 
leads  to  Trout  Cove  on  Lake  Mooselcchaountic,  a  mile  and  a 
third  distant  from  camp.  At  the  cove  Mr.  Whitney  has  another 
boat-house,  containing  four  fishing-boats.  A  second  trail,  running 
through  the  woods  in  a  difierent  direction,  leads  to  the  Upper 
Dam,  two  miles  north  of  the  camp. 

The  camp  was  christened  Camp  Whitnet,  in  honor  of  its  prin- 
cipal owner,  J.  Parker  Whitney,  Esq.,  formerly  of  Boston,  but 
now  a  resident  of  San  Francisco.  Mr.  Whitney  visits  the  camp 
every  season,  and  has  only  missed  one  year  out  of  the  last  twenty- 
three,  being  one  of  the  oldest  habitues  of  these  lakes.  He  has 
fished  some  forty  other  lakes  in  Maine,  as  well  as  the  waters  of 
Colorado  and  the  Pacific  Coast,  and  has  taken  many  a  basket 
from  the  streams  of  England  and  lochs  of  Scotland.  He  has 
bagged  game  in  all  these  places,  and  shot  twenty-three  deer,  as 
well  as  other  large  animals.  He  has  an  inexhaustible  fund  of 
interesting  anecdotes  at  his  tongue's  end,  and  is  an  entertaining 
companion. 

Associated  with  him  in  the  ownership  of  the  camp  are  George 
T.  Rice,  Esq.,  of  Worcester,  Mass.,  and  P.  Adams  Ames,  Esq., 
of  San  Francisco,  formerly  of  Boston.  Both  of  these  gentleman 
have  visited  the  lakes  for  many  years.  Capt.  Benjamin  Cole,  of 
Byron,  Maine,  one  of  the  oldest  and  best  guides  in  the  lake 
region,  was  superintendent  of  the  camp  for  nine  years.     He  re- 


THE  ANDROSCOGGIN  LAKES.  99 

signed  his  position  in  the  spring  of  1878.  He  was  an  excellent 
fisherman,  a  fine  cook,  and  a  capital  fellow,  and  will  long  be  re- 
membered by  the  visitors  at  Camp  Whitney.  His  successor  is 
Rufus  B.  Porter. 

During  the  winter  of  1882-3  Mr.  Whitney  had  built,  at  the 
large  Richardson  Pond,  a  very  comfortable  log-camp  cook-house 
and  boat-house,  for  the  use  of  himself  and  friends,  when  fishing 
and  hunting  in  that  locality.  The  fishing  at  the  ponds  during  the 
summer  is  unusually  good,  and  one  can  always  be  sure  of  a  catch 
there  when  the  lake  fishing  is  dull.  Although  not  absolutely 
necessary,  a  small  boat  on  the  pond  is  desirable,  as  it  assures 
better  fishing,  and  as  the  distance  from  the  lake  to  the  pond  is 
only  a  mile  and  a  half,  by  a  good  path,  two  persons  can  easily 
carry  a  light  boat  to  the  pond  in  about  an  hour. 

At  Whitney's  the  lake  makes  a  bend  to  the  north-west ;  so  we 
change  our  course  a  little  to  the  left,  and  a  mile  farther  on  pass 
the  New  Boston  Club  Camp.  The  Boston  Club  has  been  one 
of  the  institutions  at  the  Androscoggin  Lakes  for  many  years. 
During  the  fall  of  1877  the  club  was  reorganized,  many  of  the 
old  members  having  died,  and  the  vacancies  were  filled  by  newly 
elected  members, —  the  club  now  numbering  twenty.  In  the  spring 
of  1878  a  new  building  was  erected,  a  short  distance  below  Camp 
Belle vue,  more  roomy  and  commodious  than  their  old  camp. 
This  is  known  as  Camp  Aziscohos.  On  account  of  the  rise  in 
the  water,  by  the  rebuilding  of  the  old  Middle  Dam,  this  camp, 
during  the  fall  of  1880,  was  moved  back  some  distance  farther 
from  the  lake,  and  two  new  buildings  were  added.  The  whole 
were  tastily  painted  outside,  and  other  improvements  planned, 
tending  to  make  this  one  of  the  handsomest  and  most  convenient 
camps  in  the  region.  Hales  W.  Suter,  Esq.,  a  prominent  Boston 
lawyer,  who  spends  a  portion  of  each  summer  with  his  family  at 
this  camp,  is  the  master-spirit  of  the  Boston  Club ;  and  it  is  in  a 
great  measure  due  to  his  untiring  exertions  that  the  club  are  now 
in  possession  of  their  new  and  comfortable  quarters. 

A  few  moments'  sail  from  here  brings  us  to  the  steamboat 
wharf,  which  is  a  few  rods  to  the  right  of  Camp  Bellevue,  the 
property  of  Messrs.  Betton,  McKean,  and  Borie,  of  Philadelphia. 
The  cluster  of  buildings  forming  this  camp  was  also  moved  far- 
ther back  from  the  water,  and  very  much  improved,  during  the  fall 


100 


FARRAR'S   ILLUSTRATED   GUIDE. 


of  1880.     During  the  summer  of  1882  Mr.  Boric  eregted  a  new', 
and  attractive  camp,  tiiut  was  very  nicely  furnished.     It  stands 
fronting  the  lake,  in  a  line  with  the  other  buildings. 

Leaving  tlie  steamer,  a  short  walk  brings  you  to  the  Upper 
Dam,  and  crossing  this,  you  reach  the  camp,  which  sets  just  be- 
yond the  dam,  and  faces  south.  There  is  a  charge  on  this  carry 
of  81. tK)  per  load,  for  all  baggage  transferred  by  team  between 
the  steamers,  as  the  carting  is  done  by  tlie  Union  Water  Power 
Co. 


,««-/«"  ""^ 


f 


CHAPTER    VIII. 


(3\)t  SEpprr  ©am  anU  tfje  Eicfjartison  ponUs, 


HE  old  camps  at  the  Upper  Dam  are  among 
the  things  that  arc  past,  having  outlived  their 
day  of  usefulness.  The  new  hotel  built  during 
the  winter  and  spring  of  1882,  by  the  Union 
Watek  Power  Company  of  Lewiston,  Me.,  and 
opened  in  July  of  that  year,  stands  on  the  site 
of  the  old  camps,  facing  the  dam.  It  is  a 
picturesque  two-story  structure  of  modern  architecture,  and  is 
undoubtedly  the  finest  hotel  in  the  lake  region.  A  broad  piazza 
extends  along  the  entire  front  of  the  house,  and  contains  a  row 
of  settees.  The  office  is  a  large,  pleasant  room,  and  has  a  huge 
fireplace,  in  which  four-foot  wood  is  burned.  This  fireplace  is 
the  largest  in  any  of  the  houses  about  the  lakes,  and  is  the  most 
ornamental.  The  hotel  has  good  accommodations  for  seventy- 
i:ve  guests,  and  the  terms  are  §2.00  per  day  to  the  public  and 
$1.50  per  daj'  for  guides.  Baggage  for  the  guests  of  the  house 
is  brought  from  and  taken  to  the  steamers  free  of  charge.  The 
interior  of  the  hotel  is  mostly  finished  in  natural  woods,  sheathed 
and  oiled,  and  both  the  inside  and  ovitside  of  the  house  are  very 
tastily  painted.  A  post-office  is  established  in  the  house  during 
the  summer  season,  and  daily  mails  are  received. 

Beside  the  hotel,  the  company  have  erected  several  other  build- 
ings, including  a  large  barn,  a  store-house,  ice-house,  and  saw- 
mill. 

The  old  Boston  Club  Camp,  standing  on  the  south  side  of  the 
dam,  is  owned  by  the  company,  and  is  let  during  the  summer  to 
camping  parties. 

The  company  are  also  provided  with  a  large  number  »f  row- 
boats,  which  are  let  to  tourists  or  sportsmen  at  50  cents  per  day. 
Q-Ol) 


Rapids  below  Upper  Dam  and  Aziscohos  Modntain. 


THE  ANDROSCOGGIN  LAKES.  103 

Parties  wishing  to  engage  rooms  in  advance  should  address 
John  Chadwick,  Superintendent,  Upper  Dam,  Oxford  Co.,  Maine, 
via  Andover. 

The  Upper  Dam  is  one  of  the  largest  and  most  substantially 
built  in  the  State ;  it  was  commenced  in  1845,  and  took  two  years 
to  build  it.  It  is  built  of  the  heaviest  kind  of  timber,  bolted  with 
iron,  ballasted  with  immense  rocks,  and  is  fifteen  hundred  feet 
long.  In  the  spring,  when  the  water  is  held  back  for  the  purpose 
of  running  the  logs  down  the  Androscoggin,  the  pressure  against 
it  is  immense.  It  is  carefully  watched  day  and  night,  and  there 
is  no  possibility  of  its  ever  being  swept  away.  It  is  so  con- 
structed that,  should  any  leak  happen  underneath,  the  stones  with 
which  the  piers  are  ballasted  would  drop  down  into  the  holes  worn 
by  the  water  and  stop  the  leak.  Tliere  is  no  doubt  but  that  the 
strength  of  the  dam  is  fully  equal  to  any  strain  that  can  be 
brought  to  bear  on  it.  The  company,  in  order  to  get  an  idea  of 
the  consequences  of  a  "break,"  one  spring  had  alltlic  gates  lifted 
half  up,  with  a  full  head  of  water  on.  The  water  started  from 
the  dam  in  a  volume  of  about  twelve  feet  deep  and  a  hundred 
feet  wide.  The  result  of  the  experiment  was,  that  the  two  lakes 
below  the  Upper  Dam  were  filled,  the  water  flowing  back  into 
the  woods,  at  a  depth  in  some  places  of  four  feet.  The  surplus 
poured  over  the  Middle  Dam  at  the  foot  of  Lake  Welokenne- 
BACOOK  without  starting  a  timber,  filled  the  Umbagog  Lake, 
and  flowed  through  the  Errol  Dam  six  miles  below  the  outlet 
of  Umbagog,  causing  but  little  inconvenience,  and  no  dam- 
age. Allowing  that  the  dam  should  ever  go  out,  the  lakes  being 
so  widely  separated,  there  would  be  so  much  water  lost  in  flowing 
back  as  to  materially  lessen  the  force  and  depth  of  the  body  of 
water  in  motion,  and  hence  no  disastrous  result  could  possibly 
happen.  Some  years,  logs  to  the  value  of  .$2,000,000  are  run 
through  this  dam,  and  down  the  Androscoggin  River,  to  market. 

The  illustration  in  our  book  is  taken  from  below  the  dam  in  the 
month  of  September,  when  the  water  was  low.  When  the  water 
is  raised  to  drive  the  logs  it  makes  a  difference  of  from  ten  to 
fifteen  feet  in  the  depth  of  the  lakes.  The  shores  of  the  lakes 
are  much  prettier  when  the  water  is  low  than  when  it  is  high ; 
for  during  the  high  water  many  little  points  and  curves  in  the 
shore,  and  all  the  beautiful  sand  beaches,  are  entirely  obliterated. 


104  FARBAR'S   ILLUSTRATED   GUIDE. 

The  view  from  the  Uppeb  Dam,  down  the  river,  is  very  fine. 
(See  illustration  on  page  105.) 

If  persons  visit  the  lakes,  especially  for  fishing,  they  should  go 
cither  in  June  or  the  early  part  of  July,  when  the  water  is  high ; 
but  if  they  wish  to  become  acquainted  ¥rith  the  beauties  of  the 
place,  they  should  make  their  trip  in  August  or  September.  Then 
the  varied  outline  of  the  shores,  the  little  nooks  and  coves,  may 
be  seen  to  their  best  advantage,  and  you  experience  some  conso- 
lation in  the  fact  that  if  the  trout  are  not  so  plenty  as  in  June  or 
July,  they  are  considerably  larger. 

Some  of  the  best  fishing-places  at  the  Upper  Dam  are  on  the 
piers  and  apron  of  the  dam,  at  the  mouth  of  the  river,  a  short 
distance  below  the  dam,  and  Trodt  Cove  about  half  a  mile  above 
the  dam.  It  will  also  jjay  you  to  take  a  row-boat  or  the  steamer, 
and  go  up  to  the  head  of  the  lake  and  throw  a  fly  around  the 
mouth  of  RicuAUDsoN  Brook  and  Beaver  Brook,  and  in  the 
West  Arm  behind  the  islands.  There  is  also  good  fishing-ground 
around  a  sunken  reef  at  the  head  of  the  lake,  it  being  a  favorite 
resort  for  trout.  The  reef  is  located  about  in  the  centre  of  the 
lake,  and  nearly  opposite  of  a  long  point  making  out  from  the 
eastern  shore.  A  tall  pine  formerly  stood  on  this  point,  and  was 
an  excellent  mark  for  the  fishing-ground ;  but  recently  some 
vandal  has  cut  it  down.  There  is  no  better  spring  fishing  in  the 
entire  lake  region  than  that  about  the  head  of  Lake  Molechunk- 
AMUNK,  as  sportsmen  wlio  have  tried  it  know. 

If  you  wish  to  go  beyond  the  Upper  Dam  you  take  passage  on 
tlic  little  steam-launch  Oquossoc,  which  connects  regularly  with 
the  steamers  Welokennebacook  or  MoLEcnuNKAM[;xK.  A  team 
can  be  hired  at  the  Upper  Dam  Camp,  to  haul  your  baggage 
across  the  carry,  at  a  charge  of  §1.00  per  load.  For  several 
years  the  Upper  Dam  Camp  has  been  in  charge  of  Mr.  John 
Chadwick,  who  has  performed  his  duties,  we  believe,  in  a  manner 
satisfactory  both  to  his  employers  and  the  public. 

A  number  of  years  ago  the  lumber  company  employed  a  cook 
here  who  was  a  character  in  his  way.  He  was  a  French  Canadian, 
Joseph  Bourgogne  by  name,  and  was  a  splendid  cook.  The  writer 
remembers  one  never-to-be-forgotten  Sunday,  when,  in  company 
with  four  other  gentlemen,  wc  rowed  to  the  Upper  Dam  from  the 
RicuARDSOK  Farm,  where  we  were  "camping-out,"  and  ordered 


! 


i'"iii' 


II    1 


106  FARRAR'S  ILLUSTRATED  GUIDE  TO 

Joe  to  get  us  up  a  dinner.  The  meal  was  furnished,  Joe  intend- 
ing it  also  for  the  men  who  were  working  about  the  dam.  Our 
party  sat  down  to  the  table,  and  made  such  havoc  with  tlic  eat- 
ables as  to  astonish  Joe,  who  soon  began  to  cry  out,  ^'Sacrel" 
from  between  his  set  teeth  at  each  new  order.  The  clima.x  was 
reached  when  we  went  to  feed  a  dog  accompanying  us.  With 
horror  depicted  on  his  countenance,  Joe  rushed  to  the  table,  and 
exclamcd,  "i/o/i  Dieu!  Don't  feed  de  dog;  my  men  have  no 
had  their  dinner  yet!  "  and,  laughing,  we  left  the  table. 

In  making  a  trip  across  the  lakes,  some  years  ago,  Theodore 
Winthrop  fell  in  with  "  Joe,"  and  thus  relates  his  experience :  — 

"  Our  new  friends,  luxurious  fellows,  had  been  favored  by  Fate 
with  a  French-Canadian  cook,  himself  a  Three  of  Freres  Provin- 
ciaux.  Such  was  his  reputation.  We  saw  by  the  eye  of  him, 
and  by  his  nose,  formed  for  comprehending  fragrances,  and  by 
the  lines  of  refined  taste  converging  from  his  whole  face  towards 
his  mouth,  that  he  was  one  to  detect  and  sniff  gastronomic  possi- 
bilities in  the  humblest  materials.  Joseph  Bourgogne  looked  the 
cook.  His  phiz  gave  us  Faith  in  him :  eyes  small  and  discrimi- 
nating ;  nose  upturned,  nostrils  expanded  and  receptive ;  mouth 
saucy  in  the  literal  sense.  Ills  voice,  moreover,  was  a  cook's, — 
thick  in  articulation,  dulcet  in  tone.  He  spoke  as  if  he  deemed 
that  a  tliroat  was  created  for  better  uses  than  laboriously  manu. 
facturing  words, —  as  if  the  object  of  the  mouth  were  to  receive 
tribute,  not  to  give  commands, —  as  if  that  pink  stalactite,  his 
palate,  were  more  used  by  delicacies  entering  than  by  rough 
words  or  sorry  sighs  going  out  of  the  inner  caverns. 

"  When  we  find  the  right  man  in  the  right  place  our  mind.s  are 
at  ease.  The  future  becomes  satisfactory  as  tlie  past.  Anticipa- 
tion is  glad  certainty,  not  anxious  doubt.  Trusting  our  gastro- 
nomic welfare  fully  to  this  great  artist,  we  tried  for  fish  below  the 
dam.  Only  petty  fishlings,  weighing  ounces,  took  the  bit  between 
their  teeth.  We  therefore  doffed  the  fisherman  and  donned  the 
artist  and  poet,  and  chased  our  own  fancies  down  the  dark  whirl- 
pooling  river,  along  its  dell  of  evergreen,  now  lurid  with  the  last 
glows  of  twilight.  Iglesias  and  I  continued  dreamily  gazing  down 
the  thoroughfare  towards  Mollycbunkamug  only  a  certain  length  of 
time.  Man  keeps  up  his  highest  elations  hardly  longer  than  a 
danseiue  can  poise  in  a  pose.    To  be  consciooB  of  the  highest 


THE  ANDROSCOGGIN  LAKES.  107 

beauty  demands  an  involuntary  intentness  of  observation  so  fanat- 
ically eager  that  presently  we  are  prostrated  and  need  stimu- 
lants. And  just  as  we  sensitively  felt  this  exhaustion  and  this 
need,  we  heard  a  suggestive  voice  calling  us  from  the  front-door 
of  the  mansion-house  of  Damville,  and  '  Supper '  was  the  cry. 

"  A  call  to  the  table  may  quell  and  may  awaken  romance.  When, 
in  some  abode  of  poetized  luxury,  the  '  silver  knell '  sounds 
musically  six,  and  a  door  opens  toward  the  glitter  that  is  not 
pewter  and  Wedgewood,  and,  with  a  being  fair  and  changeful  as  a 
sunset  cloud  upon  my  arm,  I  move  under  the  archway  of  blue 
curtains  toward  the  asphodel  and  a  nectar,  then,  O  reader !  O 
friend !  romance  crowds  into  my  heart,  as  color  and  fragrance 
crowd  into  a  rose-bud.  Joseph  Bourgogne,  cook  of  Damville  on 
Moosetocmaguntic,  could  not  offer  us  such  substitute  for  aesthetic 
emotions.  But  his  voice  of  an  artist  created  a  winning  picture 
half  veiled  with  mists,  evanescent  and  aff'ectionate,  such  as  linger 
fondly  over  Pork-and-Beans. 

Fancied  joy,  soon  to  become  fact.  We  entered  the  barrack. 
Beneath  its  smoky  roof-tree  was  a  pervading  aroma ;  near  the  cen- 
tre of  that  aroma,  a  table  dim  with  wefts  of  incense  ;  at  the  inner- 
most centre  of  that  aroma  and  that  incense,  and  whence  those 
visible  and  viewless  fountains  streamed,  with  their  source,  —  a 
dish  of  Pork-and-Beans. 

"  Topraostly  this.  There  were  lesser  viands,  buttresses  to  this 
towering  triumph.  Minor  smokes  from  minor  censers.  A  circle 
of  little  craterlings  about  the  great  crater,  —  of  little  fiery  cones 
about  that  great  volcanic  dome  in  the  midst,  unopened,  and  burst- 
ing with  bounty.  We  sat  down,  and  one  of  the  red-shirted  boldly 
crushed  the  smoking  dome.  The  brave  fellow  plunged  in  with  a 
spoon  and  heaped  our  plates. 

"  ^  priori  we  had  deduced  Joseph  Bourgogne's  results  from  in- 
spection of  Joseph.  Now  we  could  reason  back  from  one  experi- 
mentum  crucis  cooked  by  him.  Effect  and  cause  are  worthy  of 
each  other. 

"The  average  world  must  be  revenged  upon  Genius .  Greatness 
must  be  punished  by  itself  or  another.  Joseph  Bourgogne  was  no 
exception  to  the  laws  of  misery  of  Genius.  He  had  a  distressing 
trait,  whose  exhibition  tickled  the  dura  ilia  of  the  reapers  of  the 
forest.     Joseph,  poet-cook,  was  sensitive  to  new  ideas.     This 


108  FARRAR'S  ILLUSTRATED  GUIDE. 

sensitiveness  to  the  peremptory  thought  made  him  the  slave  of 
the  wags  of  Damville.  Whenever  he  had  anything  in  his  hands, 
at  a  stern,  quick  command  he  would  drop  it  nervously.  Did 
he  approach  the  table  with  a  second  dish  of  pork  and  beans, —  a 
yellow  dish  of  beans,  browned  delicately  as  a  Sevres  vase, —  then 
would  some  full-fed  rogue,  waiting  until  Joseph  was  bending  over 
some  devoted  head,  say  sharply,  '  Drop  that,  Joseph  ! '  —  where- 
upon down  went  the  dish  and  contents,  emporridging  the  poll  and 
person  of  the  luckless  wight  beneath.  Always,  were  his  burden 
pitcher  of  water,  armful  of  wood,  axe  dangerous  to  toes,  mirror, 
or  pudding,  still  followed  the  same  result.  And  when  the  poet- 
cook  had  done  the  mischief,  he  would  stand  shuddering  at  his 
work  of  ruin,  and  sigli,  and  curse  his  too  sensitive  nature." 

Camp  Pkospect,  the  summer  retreat  of  W.  J.  Reynolds,  Esq., 
of  Edgartown,  Mass.,  who  has  spent  many  seasons  at  the  Andros- 
coggin Lakes,  is  situated  on  a  point  running  out  from  the  eastern 
shore  of  the  lake,  about  half  a  mile  above  the  mouth  of  the  river. 
Mr.  Reynolds  puts  in  an  appearance  at  camp  several  times  during 
each  season,  and  has  proved  himself  an  expert  angler  and  skilful 
hunter. 

Birch  Lodge  is  situated  at  the  head  of  Lake  Molecucnkahunk, 
and  is  the  property  of  J.  A.  L.  Whittier,  of  Boston,  who  spends 
much  of  the  fisliing-season  at  the  lakes.  The  main  house  is  a 
frame  cottage,  thirty-five  feet  front,  and  is  connected  by  a  piazza 
with  a  frame  building,  used  especially  for  a  dining-room,  which 
is  very  handsomely  finished  in  natural  woods,  and  a  log  kitchen, 
about  twenty-four  feet  square.  The  piazzas  surround  the  house 
on  three  sides,  and  furnish  a  promenade  of  nearly  one  Imndred  and 
fifty  feet.  The  interior  is  divided  into  sitting  and  sleeping  rooms, 
and  the  buildings  were  erected  by  Charles  H.  Goodwin,  from  plans 
drawn  by  George  R.  Clarke,  a  Boston  architect.  The  outbuild- 
ings are  a  boat-house,  ice-house,  and  guide-house.  The  establish- 
ment is  well  equipped  with  boats,  and  there  is  a  safe  landing 
accessible  at  all  times  in  tlie  cove  on  the  west  side.  Boats  also 
land  in  fair  weather  in  front  of  the  house.  The  steamer  touches 
here  twice  daily  when  Mr.  Whittier  is  in  camp.  The  forest  sur- 
rounds the  building  on  all  sides,  except  in  front,  where  it  has 
been  judiciously  thinned  out,  giving  from  the  piazza  a  superb  view 
of  both  shores  and  the  entire  length  of  the  lake  and  of  the  Elephant 


110         FARRAR'S  ILLUSTRATED  GUIDE  TO 

Mountain,  in  the  distance.  This  view  has  been  painted  for  Mr. 
Whittier  by  W.  H.  Hilliard,  a  well-known  artist  of  Boston,  and 
the  painting  was  much  admired  when  on  exhibition  in  Boston,  in 
the  winter  of  1878-9.  This  is  probably  the  most  complete  camp  in 
arrangement  and  equipment  of  any  in  the  lake  country,  and,  dur- 
ing the  fishing-season,  is  much  visited  by  the  friends  of  the  owner, 
and  by  other  gentlemen  who  enjoy  the  fishing.  Mr.  Whittier  is 
always  glad  to  welcome  and  be  of  service  to  any  gentlemen  who 
care  to  call  on  him. 

The  spring  fishing  around  Birch  Lodge  is  believed  to  be  the 
finest  on  the  lower  lakes.  Some  of  the  largest  trout  on  record  have 
been  taken  in  the  waters  front  of  the  house,  and  good  sport  can 
always  be  found  in  Richardson  Brook,  which  flows  into  the  lake  a 
few  rods  from  the  house.  There  are  some  large  trout  also  in  the 
West  Arm  and  Beaver  Brook,  both  of  which  places  are  near  by. 

Mr.  Betton,  of  Camp  Bellevce,  and  Mr.  Whittier,  have  greatly 
improved  the  path  to  the  Richardson  Ponds,  which  begins  on  the 
shore  of  the  lake  at  the  mouth  of  the  brook,  and  ladies  can  now 
make  the  trip  to  the  ponds  without  difficulty.  A  fine  boat-house 
and  camp  combined,  the  joint  property  of  Messrs  Borie,  Betton, 
and  Whittier,  has  lately  been  built  at  the  second  pond.  The  fly- 
fishing at  the  ponds  has  been  very  good  the  past  year. 

No  tourist  who  desires  to  know  all  the  beauties  of  the  lake 
should  fail  to  see  the  view  from  Birch  Lodge. 

Several  very  fine  excursions  may  be  made  from  the  Upper 
Dam,  which  is  the  grand  centre  of  the  entire  lake  region,  and 
where  many  of  the  sportsmen  stop. 

Take  a  row-boat  and  pull  up  to  the  mouth  of  the  Richardson 
Brook,  a  little  trout  stream  at  the  head  of  the  lake ;  or,  what  is 
preferable,  take  passage  by  steamer,  a  distance  of  three  miles, 
and  land  just  below  the  old  dam,  on  the  right-hand  shore,  by  two 
large  pines.  Then  a  walk  through  the  woods  of  a  mile,  over  a 
well-worn  trail,  brings  you  to  the  first  and  smallest  of  the  West 

Richardson  Ponds. 

This  sheet  of  water  is  not  more  than  half  a  mile  long,  and  is 
nearly  circular  in  shape.  The  bottom  is  muddy  in  some  parts, 
and  pebbly  in  others,  and  the  shores  are  lined  with  grasses  and 
lily-pads,  furnishing  excellent  feeding-ground  for  deer,  which  are 


THE  ANDROSCOGGIN  LAKES.  Ill 

plenty  in  the  vicinity.     This  is  also  an  excellent  pond  for  ducks, 
and  many  are  shot  there  after  the  first  of  September. 

The  trail  crosses  the  stream  at  the  outlet  of  the  small  pond, 
and  half  a  mile  beyond  you  reach  the  larger  pond,  a  sylvan  gem 
decorating  the  bosom  of  the  wilderness.  Its  situation  i3  romantic 
and  picturesque  in  the  extreme,  lying  as  it  does  at  the  base  of 
Mount  Observatory,  whose  wooded  crest  towers  for  1,500  feet 
above  it.  A  little  further  south,  Aziscohos  Mountain  raises  its 
bare  and  ragged  top  still  higher,  its  formation,  color,  and  general 
appearance  strongly  resembling  Mount  Washington.  Our  engrav- 
ing, on  the  following  page,  shows  a  part  of  this  pond,  with  the 
camp  and  boat-house  of  Messrs.  Betton,  Borie,  and  Whittier. 

Several  small  islands  in  the  pond  add  materially  to  its  beauty. 
The  shores  are  heavily  wooded,  thus  forming  an  excellent  cover 
for  game ;  deer  and  caribou  may  always  b6  found  there  by  a  per- 
son who  is  at  all  famiUar  with  hunting.  A  large  number  of  deer 
are  shot  on  the  shore  of  this  pond  every  season.  They  are  hunted 
at  night,  with  a  boat,  in  which  is  a  jack  securely  fastened  at  the 
bow,  which  throws  a  light  ahead,  attracting  the  curiosity  of  the 
deer,  until  the  hunter  has  a  chance  to  fire.  Samuel  Betton,  Esq., 
and  W.  J.  Reynolds,  Esq.,  who  have  camps  on  Molechunkamunk 
Lake,  have  both  shot  deer  at  this  place. 

The  Richardson  Ponds,  while  being  in  favor  with  those  who 
depend  on  their  rifle  for  their  sport,  are  also  attracting  the  atten- 
tion of  fishermen.  Persons  who  have  visited  these  ponds  in  former 
seasons  have  had  fine  luck  fishing,  and  the  writer  saw  one  very 
handsome  trout  taken  there  with  a  fly,  by  J.  H.  Smith,  Esq.,  of 
New  York  city,  that  weighed  six  and  a  half  pounds.  Mr.  Smith 
also  took  several  others  of  from  two  to  four  pounds'  weight.  J. 
A.  L.  Whittier,  Esq.,  proprietor  of  Birch  Lodge,  has  also  had 
excellent  sport  at  the  larger  pond,  taking  several  fine  strings  of 
trout,  some  of  the  fish  weighing  four  and  five  pounds  each.  A 
small  house,  situated  at  the  head  of  the  lake,  near  Richardson  or 
Beaver  Brooks,  is  needed  for  the  accommodation  of  those  visit- 
ing the  Richardson  Pond  and  Parmachenee  Lake,  and  it  is 
hoped  that,  before  another  season  opens,  one  will  be  erected. 

From  the  larger  Richardson  Pond  to  the  top  of  Aziscohos 
Mountain  is  only  five  miles,  and  the  magnificent  view  to  be  ob- 
tained from  its  summit  well  repays  any  person  for  the  toil  and 


THE   ANDROSCOGGIN   LAKES.  113 

time  spent  in  making  the  ascent.  To  the  north-east  the  whole  lake 
country  is  spread  before  you  like  a  map,  and  Deer  Mountain, 
East  and  West  Kennebago  Mountains,  loom  up  like  sentinels 
on  duty.  To  the  west  the  Magalloway  Settlement  lies  almost 
beneath  you,  and  some  twenty  miles  north-west  the  ragged  walls  of 
Dixvii-LE  Notch  conceal  from  your  sight  the  village  of  Cole- 
URooK,  which  lies  ten  miles  beyond.  South  and  south-east  you 
obtain  a  view  of  the  Richardson  Lakes,  Lake  Umbagog,  and 
the  White  Mountain  Range,  while  towns  and  villages  dot  the  land- 
scape here  and  there.  In  fact,  you  obtain  a  charming  and  varied 
view  whichever  way  you  turn. 

The  East  Richardson  Ponds  are  a  cluster  of  small  ponds  ly- 
ing near  Mooselucmaguntic  Lake.  To  reach  them  you  go 
over  the  same  ground  that  you  do  in  going  to  the  West  Ponds,  as 
far  as  the  dam  at  the  outlet  of  the  small  pond ;  then  turn  to  the 
right,  and  a  walk  of  about  a  mile  will  bring  you  to  the  first  pond. 
These  ponds  are  well  stocked  with  trout,  weighing  from  about  six 
ounces  to  a  pound  and  a  half  each.  There  are  no  boats  about 
the  ponds,  which  makes  the  fishing  somewhat  difficult.  With 
an   axe  and   auger,  however,    a  raft   can  easily  be   constructed. 

The  Cranberry  Bog,  so  called,  — a  small,  marshypond,  noted 
for  being  a  favorite  haunt  of  the  deer,  moose,  and  caribou,  —  is 
only  two  miles  from  the  West  Arm,  and  is  often  visited  by  the 
Nimrods  wlio  come  up  into  this  wilderness,  and  who  seldom  re- 
turn from  the  locality  without  a  supply  of  venison. 

Beaver  Pond,  a  small  circular  pond,  is  I'cached  from  the  West 
Arm  by  following  up  Beaver  Brook  for  a  mile.  It  contains  a 
large  number  of  small  brook  trout,  and  furnishes  good  fishing 
during  the  summer  months. 

In  connection  with  the  Upper  Dam  I  would  state  that  persons 
who  can  visit  this  well-known  resort  in  June  will  see  one  of  the 
most  exciting  parts  of  the  immense  lumbering  business  that  is 
carried  on  in  these  wild  regions.  The  logs  that  are  brought  down 
across  the  upper  lakes  reach  the  Upper  Dam  generally  from  the 
10th  to  the  20th  of  June.  At  this  time  the  gates  are  all  closed 
down,  and  the  sluice-way  battened  up  with  logs  and  planks, 
holding  the  water  above  the  dam  at  a  height  of  from  ten  to 
fifteen  feet.  When  the  logs  reach  Trout  Cove  the  barricade 
of  the   sluice   is   cut   away,    and   the   water,    with   an   immense 


114  FARRAU'S  ILLUSTRATED   GUIDE  TO 

pressure,  leaps  through  the  sluice  with  a  roar  like  Niagara, 
piling  up  at  the  bottom  of  the  sluice  some  twenty  feet  high; 
then,  rolling  over,  the  tumultuous  current  flows  down  the  rocky 
bed  of  the  narrow  river,  boiling  and  seething,  crested  with 
white  foam,  sweeping  everything  before  it,  until  it  pours  into  the 
lake  below.  ^^Vfter  the  first  onset  the  water  quiets  down  a  little, 
assuming  the  form  of  rapids,  that  will  compare  favorably  with  those 
of  the  St.  Lawrence  River.  Then  comes  the  most  dangerous  act  in 
this  sensational  drama.  The  huge  bateaux,  pulled  by  ten  or  a 
dozen  stalwart  foresters,  and  guided  by  two  others,  who  must  be 
very  giants  in  strength,  stationed  in  the  bow  and  stern,  with  heavy 
steering-paddles,  cool  and  collected,  not  the  least  trace  of  fear  shad- 
owing their  sunburnt  faces,  their  eyes  directed  to  the  narrow  open- 
ing ahead  through  which  they  are  to  pass,  come  sweeping  down. 
Tlie  bateaux  usually  start  a  quarter  of  a  mile  or  more  above  the 
dam,  the  men  at  the  oars  pulling  a  long,  powerful  stroke,  paying 
no  attention  to  their  boat,  which  is  guided  by  the  steersmen  in  the 
bow  and  stern,  both  of  whom  face  down  the  river.  Aided  by  a 
powerful  current,  the  boats  have  attained  an  almost  frightful  speed 
by  the  time  tlioy  reach  the  upper  end  of  the  sluice ;  the  oars  are 
trailed,  and  like  an  arrow  from  a  bow  the  boats  shoot  into  that 
narrow  passage  which  perhaps  leads  straight  to  death.  As  it  passes 
through  you  obtain  a  glimpse  of  it  like  that  of  some  object  seen  from 
the  car- window  of  a  lightning  express-train  that  is  traveling  fifty 
miles  an  hour.  Your  eyes  follow  it  as  in  a  second  more  it  makes 
the  fearful  plunge  at  the  lower  end  of  the  sluice,  and  you  involun- 
tarily hold  your  broatii  as  it  darts  into  the  boil,  ten  feet  or  more  in 
height.  •  Rising  on  this,  perhaps  half  filled  with  water,  the  boat 
slides  over  its  crest,  and  jumps  another  boil  of  perhaps  half  the 
height  of  the  first ;  then  the  sturdy  backwoodsmen  bend  to  their  oars 
and  their  light  crafts  shoot  down  the  rapids,  dodging  Immense  boul- 
ders, jumping  miniature  falls,  amid  the  din  of  the  vexed  waters,  and 
finally  emerge  on  the  broad  bosom  of  the  lake,  safe  for  the  present. 
Then  the  strained  nerves  relax,  the  tightened  muscles  become  pliant 
once  more,  and  a  deep  sigh  of  thankfulness  wells  up  from  the  heart 
of  each  of  the  crew,  who  have  once  more  run  the  sluice  in  safety. 
But  accidents  often  happen,  someilnies  of  a  laughable  character, 
and  then  of  a  nature  to  throw  a  gloom  for  days  over  the  merry  crew 
who  follow  this  exciting  business.     Occasionally  a  boat  capsizes  in 


THE  ANDROSCOGGIN  LAKES.  115 

the  first  boil,  and  several  of  the  crew  are  drowned ;  or  one  strikes 
a  rock  in  the  middle  of  the  rapids,  is  stove  to  flinders  in  an  instant, 
and  the  crew  are  left  in  the  turbid  waters  to  shift  for  themselves, 
when,  with  good  luck,  they  will  all  reach  the  shore  and  be  subject 
for  days  to  the  good-natured  jokes  of  their  companions.  After  the 
bateaux  are  all  run  through  the  sluice  the  logs  follow.  They  pass 
through  the  sluice  singly,  in  twos  and  threes,  and  sometimes  a 
dozen  at  a  time.  Below  the  sluice  they  cut  all  sorts  of  capers. 
Some  stand  on  end,  some  are  thrown  clear  out  of  the  water,  others 
roll  over  and  over;  then  they  get  twisted  and  snarled,  and  piled 
upon  each  other,  forming  a  jam,  that  is  only  straightened  by  the 
dexterous  use  of  an  axe  in  the  hands  of  some  red-shirted  hero ;  for 
clearing  a  jam  is  one  of  the  most  dangerous  acts  in  the  business, 
and  is  really  putting  one's  head  into  the  lion's  mouth.  To  be  at 
the  Upper  Dam  in  June,  and  see  the  scenes  I  have  poorly  at- 
tempted to  describe,  is  worth  all  the  expense  incurred  for  a  trip 
there,  and  then  you  have  the  fishing  besides. 

Catches  of  Trout  and  Landlocked  Salmon. 

As  there  have  been  .some  very  fine  catches  of  trout  made  at  the 
Middle  .and  Upper  Dams,  we  propose  to  mention  a  few  of  them 
at  this  time. 

In  September,  187G,  B.  Frank  Morse,  Marlborough,  Mass.,  took 
a  trout  from  below  the  Upper  Dam  that  weighed  9^  pounds. 
This  fish  was  27^  inciies  long  and  IG  inches  in  circumference. 

About  the  same  time  William  J  Reynolds,  Edgartown,  Mass., 
took  home  seven  trout  that  weighed  36  pounds.  These  fish  were  all 
taken  from  the  moutli  of  the  river,  near  the  steamboat  wharf, 
and  from  the  lower  side  of  the  Upper  Dam.  We  have  also  memo- 
randa of  five  ditferent  trout  taken  at  the  Upper  Dam  and  the 
mouth  of  the  river,  by  different  gentlemen,  that  weighed  respec- 
tively 7  pounds,  7i  pounds,  8i  pounds,  S|  pounds,  and  9^  pounds, 
which  we  call  a  pretty  fair  record.  Several  good-sized  trout  were 
also  taken  during  tlio  month  of  September  from  the  head  of 
Molechunkamdnk  Lake. 

Edward  Stearns,  Esq.,  Boston,  Mass.,  took  at  the  Upper  Dam 
in  September,  1876,  in  a  few  days'  fishing,  88  lbs.  of  trout,  the 
smallest  of  which  weighed  3  lbs.  and  the  largest  9^  lbs.  He  also 
took  a  large  number  of  trout  weighing  from  1  to  2|  lbs.,  in  addi- 


c 


THE  ANDEOSCOGGIN  LAKES.  117 

tion  to  the  88  lbs.,  making  his  entire  net  catch  not  far  from  130 
or  140  pounds. 

James  F.  Rogers,  Esq.,  Jamaica  Plain,  Mass.,  during  the  last 
two  seasons,  caught  on  Moleciiunkamunk  Lake  several  trout 
weighing  from  li  to  8  lbs.,  also  many  smaller  ones. 

Some  of  the  catches  for  1877,  at  the  Upper  Dam,  during  the 
month  of  September,  were  as  follows  :  — 

W.  A.  Taylor,  Hinsdale,  Mass.,  one  trout  weighing  6i  lbs. 

Richard  Rowe,  Boston,  Mass.,  three  trout,  weighing  3i  lbs.,  6i 
lbs.,  and  6  lbs. 

Albert  Eames,  Bridgeport,  Conn.,  six  trout,  weighing  3^,  4i,  5, 
4|,  7|  and  5|  lbs.,  the  lot  averaging  over  five  pounds  each. 

Frank  E.  Taylor,  Brooklyn,  N.Y.,  and  J.  H.  Rhodes,  New  York 
City,  took  twenty-seven  trout,  weighing  108  lbs.,  an  average  of 
four  pounds  each.  This  is  one  of  the  finest  catches  of  trout  ever 
taken  at  the  Upper  Dam.  The  separate  weights  were,  6^,  6i,  4i, 
2i,  3i  3i,  3,  4,  53,  4,  4^,  3|,  6,  3i,  4,  3,  3^,  5^,  3,  2i,  «i,  4,  2i, 
2i,  3|,  2,  and  5  lbs.  each. 

Many  of  the  older  visitants  to  the  Androscoggin  Lakes  will 
remember  the  late  John  A.  Bird,  Esq.,  of  Brookline,  Mass.,  who 
was  in  the  habit  of  making  a  yearly  trip  to  the  Upper  Dam.  On 
one  of  his  regular  annual  fishing  excursions  he  was  the  hero  of 
a  trouting  adventure  that  deserves  to  be  perpetuated  in  print  as 
being  one  of  the  most  wonderful  streaks  of  piscatory  luck  on 
record,  for  the  truth  of  which  we  can  furnish  indisputable  proof. 

One  day  he  went  out  to  Morrill's  Rock,  a  favorite  resort  of  his, 
to  give  the  trout  a  trial.  He  was  alone  on  this  occasion.  He  had 
indifferent  success  at  first,  but  finally  made  a  cast  and  struck  two 
fish  at  the  same  time.  They  were  both  good  ones,  and  he  found 
that  he  had  his  hands  full.  For  an  hour  he  struggled  and  fought 
with  two  of  the  finest  specimens  of  the  Salmo  Fontanalis  that 
ever  tickled  a  fisherman's  fancy,  and  at  the  end  of  that  time  suc- 
ceeded in  getting  both  of  the  fish,  which  weighed  respectively  five 
and  a  half  and  seven  and  a  half  pounds,  making  together  thirteen 
pounds  of  trout  at  one  catch.  Both  of  them  were  very  handsome 
trout,  and  Mr.  Bird  thought  so  much  of  his  beautful  prize  that  he 
had  an  oil-painting  of  the  fish  made  by  Brackett ;  the  picture  is 
still  in  the  possession  of  Mr.  Bird's  family,  and  will  stand  forever 
a  lasting  monument  of  his  skill  as  an  angler,  and  a  proof  of  the 


118  FARRAR'S   ILLUSTRATED  GUIDE. 

marvelous  size  nnd  beauty  of  the  Androscoggtn  Lakes  spotted 
brook  trout. 

The  following  trout  were  caught  at  the  Upper  Dam  during  the 
fall  of  1878  :  — 

Richard  Rowe,  Newton,  Mass.,  one  trout,  weighing  7  lbs. 

W.  J.  Reynolds,  Edgartown,  two  trout,  weifjhing  6i  and  7 
lbs. 

The  superiority  of  the  Androscoggiii 'Lakes  over  any  other 
fishing  waters,  for  size  and  beauty  of  trout,  is  well  known  and 
admitted  by  those  who  are  familiar  with  the  different  fishing 
localities  in  the  United  States  and  Canadas. 

The  weight  of  several  thousand  trout  taken  from  these  waters  in 
various  seasons  of  the  year,  by  J.  P.  Whitney,  Esq.,  who  has  a  fine 
camp  at  the  mouth  of  Mosqcito  Brook,  on  Lake  Molechunka- 
HDNK,  who  for  a  number  of  years  kept  a  careful  account  of  his 
catches,  as  well  as  those  of  his  friends,  averaged  one  and  one- 
tenth  pounds  each,  and  from  some  localities  Mr.  Whitney  found 
liis  weights  to  average  one  and  one-third  pounds,  the  latter  from 
the  Magalloway  River. 

Not  far  above  the  Esconos  Falls,  on  the  right-hand  side  of  the 
river,  is  Beaveu  Brook,  which  is  a  famous  fishing-place  in  the 
montits  of  August  and  September.  At  times  hundreds  of  trout 
may  be  seen  lying  close  to  the  clear  sand  at  the  mouth  of  this 
brook,  all  headed  toward  the  cool  and  life-giving  waters  of  this 
stream.  Mr.  Wliitney,  a  year  or  two  ago,  in  the  month  of  August, 
took  at  this  place  three  hundred  and  twenty-seven  trout  in  one 
afternoon,  and  left  while  the  fishing  was  still  good.  The  same 
gentleman  took,  one  forenoon,  from  the  Big  Pool,  a  short  distance 
above  the  mouth  of  the  Little  Magalloway,  on  the  main 
stream,  si.\ty-two  trout,  weighing  78  lbs.,  eight  of  the  largest 
weighing  2(5  lbs. 

In  July,  1875,  Mr.  William  Brooks,  Jamaica  Plain,  Mass., 
caught  at  Sniootli  Ledge,  a  short  distance  from  the  Middle  Dam 
Camp,  fifteen  trout,  weighing  3G  lbs.,  the  two  largest  weighing 
15  lbs.     These  were  taken  with  a  common  fly-rod. 

One  season  a  gentleman  by  the  name  of  Gile,  from  Brooklyn, 
N.y.,  who  was  over  sixty  years  of  age,  took  a  trout  from  the  lake, 
at  the  head  of  the  run,  in  front  of  the  Middle  Dam  Camp,  that 
weighed  six  and  a  half  pounds.     Two  other  trout  were  also  cap- 


120 


FARRAR'S   ILLUSTRATED   GUIDE   TO 


tared  by  another  gentleman  at  the  same  place,  the  two  weighing 
twenty-three  pounds.     This  was  in  September,  1876. 

In  September  ami  October,  1878,  the  Fish  Commissioners  of 
Maine  took  the  following  large  strings  of  trout  for  hatching  pur- 
poses :  — 

At  the  outlet  of  Oquossoc  Lake,  — 


October 

2, 

11   trout,  average 

43  pounds. 

Largest, 

10  pounds. 

it 

3, 

4      " 

5.i       " 

7i        " 

" 

4, 

12      " 

;>            ■' 

8 

.' 

5, 

17      " 

4i        - 

9 

.' 

7 

10      '• 

3 

7 

«» 

8 

4      " 

55        " 

9 

" 

9 

5      " 

5 

8 

At  Upper  Dam,  Lake  Molechunkamunk 

— 

September 

22,  11  in  car, 

average  3i  pounds. 

23,    5  trout, 

" 

3i       " 

Largest,  7  pounds 

24,    3     " 

" 

4i      " 

(< 

6      " 

25,    5     " 

n 

81      " 

5i     " 

26,  13     " 

(< 

3i      " 

4i     " 

27,    3     " 

l( 

5i       " 

6       " 

28,    7     " 

«• 

4i      " 

6       " 

30,    9     " 

" 

5 

7       " 

October 

1,  9     " 

2,  5     " 

3,  7     " 

■■ 

3 
3 
6  6-7  " 

51     '• 

6       " 

10       " 

" 

6,    7     " 

" 

4i       " 

6      " 

" 

7,    6     " 

" 

H     '■ 

9i     " 

10,    6     '-' 

" 

6 

8       " 

It  will  be  noticed  that  the  largest  average  catch  was  that  of  Oc- 
tober 3d,  at  the  Upper  Dam,  Lake  MoLEcnuNKAMUNK. 

The  fishing  during  the  season  of  1879,  both  in  the  spring  and 
fall,  was  excellent,  and  many  large  trout  were  taken. 

Dana  J.  Flanders,  Gen.  Ticket  Agent,  B.  &  M.  R.R.,  took  one 
trout  at  the  Upper  Dam,  in  September,  weighing  6  lbs. 

Frank  E.  Taylor,  Brooklyn,  N.Y.,  and  J.  H.  Rhodes,  New 
York  City,  had  their  usual  good  luck,  and  in  two  weeks  in  Sep- 


THE   ANDROSCOGGIN  LAKES.  121 

tember  captured  the  following  string  of  fish  :  three  trout,  weight, 
1  lb.  each;  one  trout,  li  lbs.;  one  trout,  2  lbs.;  seven  trout,  2i 
lbs.  each ;  one  trout,  2'\  lbs. ;  seven  trout,  3  lbs.  each ;  four  trout, 
3i  lbs.  each;  two  trout,  3|  lbs.  each;  three  trout,  4  lbs.  each;  one 
trout,  44  lbs. ;  one  trout,  4i  lbs. ;  one  trout,  4|  lbs. ;  throe  trout, 
5  lbs.  each;  three  trout,  5^  lbs.  each;  one  trcut,  5|  lbs.;  two 
trout,  7  lbs.  each.  Total,  45  trout,  weighing  150^  lbs.  Average 
weight  per  fish,  3J  lbs.  Fifteen  of  these  trout  average  5  lbs. 
each. 

The  fishing  at  the  Androscoggin  Lakes  during  the  spring 
and  fall  of  1880  was  remarkably  good,  and  many  large  trout 
were  taken  at  the  Upper  Dam.  Among  them  was  one  captured 
by  Messrs.  N.  Frank  Marble  and  Frank  Fallon,  of  Boston,  who 
had  Steve  Morse  with  them  for  guide,  on  the  29th  of  September, 
at  the  Upper  Dam,  that  weighed  eleven  pounds.  It  was  caught 
about  eight  o'clock  in  the  morning,  and  killed  about  noon,  'i  ho 
same  day  it  was  sent  to  Bradford  &  Anthony,  of  Boston,  for 
exhibition;  was  afterwards  bought  by  M.  A.  Dennison,  Esq., 
and  presented  to  Prof.  Spencer  F.  Baird,  of  the  Smithsonian 
Institute,  Washington,  D.C,  and  there  cast  in  plaster.  This 
trout  was  seen  for  ten  days  before  he  was  caught,  and  his  mate, 
a  female,  was  taken  about  a  week  before  him,  and  weighed  85  lbs. 
He  was  almost  netted  at  the  time  the  female  was  caugiit,  by  keep- 
ing so  close  to  her  when  she  was  landed. 

In  June,  1881,  E.  A.  Samuels,  Esq.,  of  Boston,  took  seven  trout 
at  the  Middle  Dam,  that  weighed  36^  lbs.,  —  an  average  of  nearly 
5  lbs.  each. 

In  June,  1882,  he  caught  on  Lake  Welokennebacook  sixty 
trout,  weighing  108  lbs.,  some  of  which  ran  from  3  to  5  pounds. 

W.  A.  Chase,  Esq.,  Agent  of  the  Holyoke  Water  Power  Co., 
who  has  made  several  fishing-trips  to  the  Androscoggin  Lakes, 
was  there  in  June,  1882,  with  a  party  of  four  ladies  and  seven 
gentlemen,  and  had  very  good  luck.     lie  says  :  — 

"I  caught,  at  the  head  of  the  Narroavs,  on  Saturday,  June  3d, 
between  the  hours  of  4.30  and  6.35  P.M.,  five  trout,  all  nearly  of 
same  size,  weighing  23  lbs.  and  11  oz.  Also  twenty-two  trout, 
nine  of  which  weighed  about  21  lbs.,  and  the  remainder  ran  from 
14  to  1|  lbs.  each.  These  were  all  taken  trolling ;  part  of  the 
time  with  two  rods,  until  it  was  so  difficult  managing  them  that 


122  FARBAR'S   ILLUSTRATED    GUIDE  TO 


one  had  to  be  abandoned  —  a»d  all  within  a  t-ircle  of  one  hun- 
dred and  fifty  feet  radius. 

"  At  tlie  time  of  my  stopping  fishing.  6.30  P.M.,  the  trout  were 
biting  as  rapidly,  and  of  the  larger  sort,  as  when  I  first  struck  in, 
and  it  was  only  because  of  exhaustion  of  myself  and  guide  that  I 
stopped.  I  cannot  explain  to  you  the  excitement  which  I  expe- 
rienced in  having,  at  three  different  times,  five-pounders  on  both 
rods,  and  you  can  imagine  my  feelings  as  the  larger  ones  (of 
course),  three  in  succession,  took  French  leave,  as  the  landing- 
net  was  about  to  enclose  them.  It  won't  do  for  me  to  write  any 
more  about  it,  or  I  shall  holler !  The  largest  fish  taken  by  either 
of  our  party  was  caught  by  M.  H.  Whitcomb  and  W.  S.  Loomis, 
weight  5  lbs.  4  oz.  My  wife  claims  the  largest  single  catch,  it 
being  a  trout  weighing  \i  lbs.,  with  eight  minnows  in  him. 

"  I  wish  I  could  give  you  a  detailed  account  of  our  day's  work. 
Suffice  it  to  say,  however,  it  was  far  beyond  our  expectauoiis, 
and  bids  us  take  an  early  start  next  year." 

There  is  not  the  shadow  of  a  doubt  but  that  within  a  year  or 
two  landlocked  salmon  will  be  as  freely  taken  at  the  Androscog- 
gin Lakes  as  trout  now  are.  For  the  past  three  years  a  few  salm- 
on have  been  taken  every  season,  an  increasing  number  each 
year,  the  fish  running  from  2  to  G  pounds  in  weight.  Most  of 
them  have  been  taken  at  the  Upper  Dam,  and  on  Moosellxma- 
GCNTic  Lake  ;  but  in  July,  1882,  Mr.  Kit  Clarke,  the  manager  of 
J.  H.  Haverly's  amusement  enterprises,  who  generally  visits  the 
lakes  several  times  each  season,  caught,  at  the  Middle  Dam, 
a  landlocked  salmon  weighing  3i  pounds.  This  fish  was  taken 
with  a  fly.  Smaller  ones  had  been  taken  at  the  same  place  be- 
fore, also  some  on  the  Rapid  River,  and  several  have  been  seen 
in  Lake  Umbaooo. 

The  stock  in  the  lakes  is  kept  up  by  artificial  hatching,  and 
during  the  last  two  years  six  hundred  thousand  young  trout  have 
been  turned  into  the  water,  besides  some  thirty  thousand  land- 
locked sal Jion.  This  year  there  is  an  addition  of  one  hun- 
dred thousand  landlocked  salmon,  and  five  hundred  thousand 
trout.  This  season  a  large  number  of  young  landlocked  salmon 
were  placed  in  Lake  Usibagoo,  and  this  is  to  be  continued  each 
year,  until  the  lake  is  thoroughly  stocked  with  that  splendid  fish. 

Several  years  ago,  G.  W.  Bentley,  Esq.,  Gen.  Supt.  of  the  New 


THE   ANDROSCOGGIN    LAKES.  123 

London  Northern  Railroad,  was  at  the  Richardson  Lakes  on  a 
fishing-trip,  and  while  stopping  at  the  Upper  Dam  went  down  to 
the  m(  uth  of  the  river  one  morning  to  try  his  luck.  Uncle  Julin 
Merrill  was  his  guide.  At  the  lake  they  took  a  boat,  and  anchored 
at  the  foot  of  the  rapids.  Not  having  an  idea  that  trout  were  very 
plentj',  he  put  three  flies  on  his  leader  and  commenced  whipping 
away.  Soon  he  had  a  rise,  but  did  not  succeed  in  striking  his 
fish.  He  worked  away  diligently,  however,  and  soon  some  more 
trout  I)roke  water  near  him.  He  cast  over  the  spot ;  another  trout 
rose,  and  he  struck  him  successfully.  He  had  hardly  commenced 
playing  the  first  trout,  when  another  hungry  fellow  took  the  second 
fly,  and  shortly  after  the  third  fly  also  had  a  trout  on  it.  The 
excitement  now  was  intense.  "  Jupiter  Pluvius  !  John  !  I  have 
hooked  three  trout!  "said  Mr.  Bentley.  "You  don't  mean  it?" 
cried  John,  his  eyes  as  large  as  saucers.  "  As  sure  as  you  are  a 
live  man.  And  how  in  the  dickens  am  I  going  to  save  them?" —  I 
don't  know,  sir;  they  will  smash  your  rigging,  sure." — "Take 
your  net,  and  stand  ready,  John,  and  I'll  see  what  I  can  do." 
By  careful  work  Mr.  Bentley  succeeded  in  getting  the  smallest 
trout  that  had,  fortunately,  taken  tlie  upper  fly,  near  enough  to 
the  boat,  so  that  Uncle  John  placed  his  net  under  it,  and  with  one 
quick  stroke  of  his  knife  severed  the  fly  from  the  leader,  thus 
saving  the  trout,  which  weighed  two  jrounds.  After  i)hiving  the 
other  two  a  while,  they  were  also  netted,  and  found  to  weigh,  sev- 
erally, five  and  six  pounds.  He  fished  for  some  time  after  making 
this  glorious  catch,  and  took,  altogether,  sixty  pounds  of  trout, 
about  as  big  a  load  as  Uncle  John  wanted  to  back  up  to  camp. 
This  feat  was  the  more  wonderful  from  the  fact  that  this  was  Mr. 
Bentlcy's  first  trip  to  the  lakes,  and  when  he  reached  Andover  on 
his  return,  and  told  some  gentlemen  of  it  who  were  on  their  way 
in,  they  had  half  a  mind  to  start  that  night. 

Mrs.  J.  p.  Whiiniy,  of  Camp  Whitney,  is  one  of  the  most  en- 
thusiastic and  successful  anglers  who  visit  the  lakes,  and  can 
handle  a  rod,  cast  a  fly,  or  land  a  five-pound  trout,  with  as  much 
ease  and  grace  as  any  of  the  men. 

The  number  of  fisherworaen  visiting  the  lakes  the  past  year  or 
two  seems  to  be  decidedly  on  the  increase,  and  some  of  them  have 
a  strong  penchant  for  the  gentle  sport. 

The  occupants  of  Birch  Lodge,  at  the  head  of  Lake  Molechunk- 


THE   ANDROSCOGGIN  LAKES.  125 

amunk,  were  startled  one  morning,  during  the  season  of  1879,  by 
discovering  a  deer  swimming  across  the  lake  in  front  of  the  camp, 
about  a  quarter  of  a  mile  from  shore. 

Instantly  all  was  excitement.  Two  of  the  guides  started  in  one 
boat,  and  the  cook,  and  two  of  the  fishermen,  Drs.  Whittier  and 
Whittemore,  in  another,  each  crew  doing  their  best  to  reach  the 
animal  first.  As  the  first  boat  neared  him  the  deer  turned  in  the 
direction  of  the  second  boat,  and,  seeing  it,  became  confused, 
and  began  to  swim  around  in  a  circle.  The  boats  now  closed  in 
upon  him,  and  after  some  difficulty  a  rope  was  thrown  over  his 
head,  and  he  was  towed  to  the  shore.  He  was  taken  to  the  camp 
alive,  and  found  to  be  a  fine  buck  a  year  or  more  old. 

The  gentlemen  had  hoped  to  keep  him  alive,  but  he  had  been 
injured  some  way  in  the  struggle  on  the  lake,  and  it  was 
found  necessary  to  kill  him.  Had  the  animal  swam  straight  to 
shore  when  he  first  saw  the  boats  he  would  have  escaped,  as  none 
of  the  party  took  fire-arms  with  them.  The  proprietor  of  Birch 
Lodge,  J.  A.  L.  Whittier,  Esq.,  had  the  head  preserved  and 
mounted,  as  a  souvenir  of  the  adventure. 

During  the  spring  of  1882  Mr.  Whittier  received  a  supply  of  wild 
rice  from  Canada,  and  had  it  planted  in  tlie  shallow  places  around 
the  head  of  the  lake,  near  Birch  Lodge,  for  the  purpose  of  im- 
proving the  duck-shooting  in  the  fall.  -  All  species  of  ducks  are 
very  fond  of  wild  rice,  and  it  is  said  will  resort  in  large  numbers 
to  places  where  it  grows. 

During  the  month  of  October,  1880,  as  the  steamer  Molechunka- 
MUNK  was  making  her  morning  trip  to  Birch  Lodge,  the  captain 
sighted  an  animal,  which  afterward  proved  to  be  a  two-year-old 
caribou,  feeding  on  lily-pads  at  the  mouth  of  Mill  Brook.  In- 
stantly all  was  excitement.  A  double-barrelled  spy-glass,  some- 
thing less  than  twenty  feet  long,  was  levelled  at  the  innocent  and 
hungry  caribou,  and  the  person  who  squinted  through  it  saw  the 
animal  raise  his  head  and  look  warily  around.  This  increased  the 
nervousness,  if  possible,  of  all  on  board,  and  a  sportsman  present, 
who  was  accompanied  by  a  four-legged  dog,  offered  tiie  captain  a 
five-dollar  counterfeit  note  if  he  would  put  the  steamer  to  Whit- 
tier's  Landing  in  time  for  him  to  get  a  shot.  The  captain  pocketed 
the  note,  spit  a  few  mild,  briny  oaths  out  of  his  mouth,  that  were 
interfering  with  his  digestion,  then,  seizing  the  speaking-trumpet, 


126  FARRAR'S  ILLUSTRATED   GUIDE  TO 

yelled  to  the  engineer  to  let  her  go.  The  engineer  declared  he 
was  not  hindering  her.  Then  three  reefs  were  shook  out  of  the 
smoke-stack  and  the  anchor  hove  overboard,  whidi  considerably 
accelerated  tlie  boat's  speed.  Then  the  captain  rubbed  salt  pork 
all  around  the  outside  of  the  boat  along  the  water-line,  and  the 
way  that  steamer  went  through  the  water  was  a  caution  to  snakes. 
The  log  was  hove,  and  tlie  mate  reported  the  speed  at  thirty  knots. 
When  the  captain  heard  it  his  hair  stood  on  end  so  quickly  that 
it  shot  his  hat  up  through  the  hurricane  deck  and  it  sailed  away 
into  infinite  space.  "Great  Caesar's  Ghost!"  he  exclaimed,  "I 
shall  lose  my  money  at  this  rate.  Tie  ten  knots  more  in  that  log- 
line  and  throw  it  over  again  ;"  and  at  a  speed  of  forty  knots  a  minute 
the  steamer  tore  through  the  water  and  landed  high  and  dry  on 
the  beach.  All  hands  immediately  made  tracks  for  the  caribou,  the 
sportsman  and  his  dog  taking  the  lead,  covering  twenty  feet  of 
ground  at  a  stride.  The  entire  crew  of  the  steamer  followed,  the 
engineer  armed  with  a  double-barrelled  gun, —  one  barrel  straight 
and  the  other  crooked,  so  he  could  shoot  easily  around  corners,  — 
the  rest  of  the  crew  frantically  waving  handspikes,  belaying-pins, 
and  feather-dusters.  They  were  joined  in  their  flight  by  several 
from  the  camp,  and  in  a  few  moments  reached  Mill  Brook,  and, 
oh,  joy !  there  beheld  the  caribou.  The  sportsman,  with  his  rifle, 
and  the  engineer,  with  his  peculiar  gun,  both  blazed  away.  The 
caribou  was  not  hit,  altliough  the  distance  was  only  twenty-five 
yards;  but  the  bullet  from  the  crooked  barrel  of  the  engineer's 
gun  did  good  execution,  as  it  circled  around  to  the  west  sliore  of 
the  lake  and  went  through  the  brain  of  an  elephant  that  was  in  the 
act  of  climbing  a  tall  maple  to  gather  spruce-gum.  Then  the 
party,  with  a  lofty  disdain  of  the  danger  they  incurred,  waded 
Mill  Brook,  which  at  this  time  was  a  raging  torrent  two  inches 
deep,  and  charged  on  the  caribou.  This  was  more  than  any  well- 
trained  animal  could  stand ;  so  lie  bowed  to  his  would-be  captors, 
and  trotted  leisurely  into  the  woods.  At  this  the  party  divided, 
half  following  the  animal  into  the  woods,  the  rest  remaining  on 
the  beach.  Soon  the  caribou  appeared  again,  further  along  on 
the  beach,  and  one  of  the  thirsters  for  blood  walked  up  to  within 
ten  feet  of  the  animal.  The  party  in  the  woods  now  obtained  a 
squint  at  him,  and,  crawling  through  the  underbrush  towards  the 
beach,  they  stopped  six  feet  from  the  caribou,  and,  resting  their 


THE  ANDROSCOGGIN  LAKES. 


127 


rifles  carefully  over  a  stumi>,  pulled  trigger  and  missed.  The 
caribou,  with  a  taunting  laugh  and  a  parting  bow,  said  '^Good 
day ! "  and  was  off  like  tlie  wind.  The  same  day  he  was  tracked 
to  the  first  Richardson  pond,  and  shot. 

Samuel  Betton,  Esq.,  of  Philadelphia,  spent  nearly  all  of  the 
winter  of  1882-83  at  his  camp  Bellevue,  on  Lake  Molechunka- 
munk,  and  during  the  open  season  for  large  game  shot  several 
deer,  beside  five  caribou,  and  reports  large  game  of  all  kinds  very 
plenty. 

Two  at  a  Time. 

T.  B.  Stewart,  Esq.,  of  New  York  City,  is  one  of  the  most 
enthusiastic  and  successful  anglers  whom  we  know.  He  generally 
finds  time  from  the  cares  of  business  to  spend  a  few  weeks  each 
summer  at  the  Richardson  Lakes.  During  his  fishing  trip  in 
September,  1883,  he  took,  in  one  day,  one  trout  weighing  4  lbs. ;  two 
weighing  5  lbs.  each  ;  one  of  7  lbs. ;  one  of  8  lbs.  On  another  day  he 
caught  three  trout,  weighing,  respectively,  3i,  4,  and  5i  lbs.  On  the 
29th  of  the  same  month  he  accomplished  the  greatest  piscatorial 
feat  that  has  ever  come  under  our  notice.  He  was  fishing  in  the 
rapids  below  the  upper  dam,  with  a  six-ounce  rod,  from  the  leader 
of  which  dangled  two  flies,  known  as  the  "  Silver  Doctor." 
Making  a  cast,  he  soon  had  two  trout  securely  hooked,  and  from 
the  play  of  his  rod  he  knew  they  were  both  large  ones.  His 
guide  stood  near  him,  on  a  pile  of  logs,  and  with  much 
skill  and  patience  lie  succeeded  in  working  the  trout  toward  the 
guide,  who,  with  rare  good  luck,  netted  one,  and  secured  him. 
The  other  fisli,  after  an  hour  and  a  half  of  hard  labor,  was  also 
netted,  without  injuring  his  rigging  a  particle.  One  of  these 
trout  weighed  eight,  and  the  other  eight  and  a  quarter,  making 
sixteen  and  a  quarter  pounds  of  trout  caught  at  one  time  on  a 
six-ounce  rod.  When  any  one  can  beat  that  record  we  should 
like  to  be  informed  of  it. 


CHAPTER  IX. 


Jfrom   t\}t   dipper    ©am   to    Bemts   ^trram, 
?^aiues'  Hantrins  antr  Intiian 
EocL 


'HE  steamer  Oqcossoc  leaves  the  Upper  Dam 
Landing  twice  a  day,  on  arrival  of  the  steamers 
from  the  South  Arm,  at  about  ten  o'clock  in 
the  forenoon,  and  three  o'clock  in  the  afternoon. 
At  high  water  she  sails  from  the  Upper  Dam, 
quite  near  the  hotel ;  at  low  water  from  Scow 
Landing,  at  Trout  Cove,  a  few  minutes'  walk  from  the 
house. 

Gliding  out  of  the  cove,  the  steamer  skirts  the  rock- 
bound,  forest-girt  shore,  passing  several  eligible  places  for 
camping,  on  the  right-hand  side  of  the  lake,  where  wood 
and  water  are  plenty,  and  not  a  great  way  from  good  fishing- 
ground.  Before  reaching  Tootiiaker's  Island,  the  view 
opens  on  the  left,  disclosing  a  fine  view  of  the  lake,  which 
sweeps  away  to  the  north  until  it  finally  unites  with  Cupsuptic. 
Passing  to  the  right  of  the  island  you  enter  a  broad  bay,  and 
after  a  run  of  seven  miles  arrive  at  the  landing  near  the  Bema 
camps.  At  the  foot  of  the  bay  the  Bemis  Stream  empties  into 
the  lake,  and  here  is  a  splendid  sand  beach,  semicircular  in 
shape,  and  over  a  mile  in  extent. 

The  clearing  here  was  made   and  the   log-cabins  built  by  the 
Oquossoc  Angling  Association  about  ten  years  ago,  and  for  sev- 
eral years  some  of  the  members  visited  the  place  every  summer. 
At  one  time  there  was  a  hatching-house  three  miles  up  the  stream, 
(123) 


130         FABBAR'S  ILLUSTRATED  GUIDE  TO 

and  a  large  niunber  of  trout  were  artificially  propagated  each 
season.  This  business,  however,  is  now  done  at  the  foot  of 
Oqdossoc  Lake. 

The  camps  and  land  at  Bemis  Stream  are  now  leased  by  Capt. 
Fred  C.  Barker.  The  buildings  include  nine  log-cabins,  and  a 
new  frame  house  containing  six  rooms.  Each  building  has  an 
open  fireplace,  and  the  rooms  are  all  well  and  comfortably  fur- 
nished. These  camps  are  now  used  as  a  hotel  by  Capt.  Barker, 
who  has  good  accommodations  for  thirty  people.  His  terms  are 
$2.00  per  day,  and  he  sets  a  very  good  table.  Parties  wishing 
row-boats  can  hire  them  of  Capt.  Barker,  who  has  some  good 
ones. 

The  camps  are  pleasantly  situated,  standing  a  few  rods  from 
the  lake,  facing  west,  and  command  a  fine  landscape  view.  In 
front  of  the  camps  is  a  huge  boulder,  split  in  two  by  some  con- 
vulsion of  nature,  known  as  Cleft  Rock.  Away  to  the  right 
Bald  Mountain  is  just  visible  in  the  distance,  its  crest  appearing 
above  several  lower  hills  that  intervene.  On  the  left  the  Bemis 
Mountain  Bange  stretches  away  for  miles,  and  directly  in  front 
is  the  vast  expanse  of  water,  with  Toothaker's  Island  and 
Student  Island  prominent,  and  far  beyond  are  the  mountains 
that  lie  along  the  Maoallowat  River. 

The  land  through  which  the  Bemis  Stream  flows  is  flat  for 
some  little  distance  back  from  the  lake,  and  in  the  spring,  when 
the  gates  are  down  at  the  Upper  Dam,  the  water  flows  back  a  long 
way,  and  the  mouth  of  the  stream  and  the  sand  beach  are  com- 
pletely covered. 

During  the  spring  and  fall  the  fishing  is  good  at  Bemis  ;  but 
there  is  no  part  of  the  summer  when  you  cannot  catch  fish 
enough  to  eat.  The  time  for  the  appearance  of  the  trout  varies ; 
some  years  they  come  several  weeks  earlier  than  others. 

Leaving  Bemis  Stream  the  boat  heads  north-west,  and  wc 
soon  reach  Toothaker's  Island,  or  the  Big  Island,  as  it  is  some- 
times called,  which  is  over  a  mile  long,  and  on  whose  soil  some 
immense  trees  have  grown.  A  few  years  ago  a  large  gang  logged 
on  this  island  all  winter,  and  some  of  the  largest  logs  were  cut 
that  ever  grew  in  the  State.  There  has  also  been  considerable 
logging  done  at  different  times  on  Gut  Island.  On  the  east  shore 
of  the  bay,  opposite  Toothaker's  Island,  there  is  an  immense 


THE  ANDROSCOGGIN  LAKES.  131 

rock,  in  which  is  quite  a  cave,  making  it  worth  a  visit  from  the 
curious. 

A  mile  further  on  we  turn  into  the  Gct,  with  Gut  or  Student 
Island  on  your  left.  Sailing  through  this  strait,  which  is  thickly 
sprinkled  with  rocks,  you  reach  the  broadest  part  of  the  lake,  and 
shortly  pass  Long  Point,  or  the  cape,  on  the  right,  with  Bald 
Mountain  directly  ahead.  Continuing  on  up  the  lake,  a  few 
miles'  run  brings  us  to  Bugle  Cove,  twelve  miles  distant  from 
Bemis  Stream. 

From  Bugle  Cove  to  Bkandt  Point  is  the  widest  part  of  the 
lake,  and  is  a  distance  of  about  five  miles. 

The  late  R.  G.  Allerton,  Esq.,  of  New  York  City,  built  a  camp 
at  this  place,  known  as  Allerton  Lodge.  It  was  built  in  1875, 
and  is  one  of  the  prettiest  buildings  in  the  lake  region.  Its  situ- 
ation is  most  romantic,  setting  as  it  does  on  a  huge  rock  which 
towers  above  the  water  to  a  height  of  fifty  feet,  commanding  a 
fine  view  of  the  widest  part  of  the  lake.  Directly  behind  it  Bald 
Mountain  rears  its  thickly  wooded  and  precipitous  side  to  a 
height  of  1,000  feet.  From  the  piazza  of  the  house  a  fine  view 
is  obtained  of  the  Bemis  Mountain  Range,  the  Elephant's 
Hump  being  one  of  the  prominent  landmarks.  This  range  of 
mountains  is  about  twelve  miles  south-east  from  the  Lodge. 
Looking  westerly  across  the  lake,  the  frowning  peak  of  AziscHO- 
nos  is  seen  towering  above  the  other  mountains  by  several  hun- 
dred feet.  From  its  summit  may  be  obtained  the  most  extensive 
view  to  be  found  in  the  lake  country. 

George  M.  Allerton,  Esq.,  of  Naugatuck,  Conn.,  is  now  the 
owner  of  Allerton  Lodge,  and,  with  his  family,  spends  a  part 
of  each  summer  there.  Mr.  Allerton  has  been  quite  successful 
in  capturing  the  large  trout  that  abound  in  the  neighborhood  of 
his  camp,  and  is  very  fond  of  the  sport. 

The  ascent  of  Bald  Mountain  may  be  easily  made  from 
Allerton  Lodge,  the  distance  to  the  summit  being  a  little  short 
of  a  mile.  Mr.  Ellis,  who  formerly  had  charge  of  the  house, 
bushed  out  and  cleared  up  a  path  that  is  not  at  all  difficult  to 
follow.  At  the  same  time  he  cut  away  the  trees  and  imderbrush 
in  four  difierent  places  on  top  of  the  mountain,  furnishing  some 
very  charming  landscapes.  The  first  commands  the  lower  end  of 
Lake  Mooselucmagcntic,  including  Bema  Bat,  Student  and 


THE  ANDROSCOGGIN  LAKES.  138 

TooTHAKER  ISLANDS,  part  of  the  lower  Androscoggin  Lakes, 
part  of  the  town  of  Cambridge,  the  distant  peaks  of  the  White 
Mountains,  and  a  bit  of  Lake  Umbagog.  Following  Mr.  Ellis' 
trail,  we  move  along  the  top  of  the  mountain,  bearing  to  the  east, 
and  reach  the  second  cut-out.  This  gives  us  a  view  of  Bema  Bay 
and  Stream,  and  the  camps  there.  Then,  turning 'a  little  to  the 
left,  we  see  a  part  of  Oquossoc  Lake,  including  South  Cove 
and  South  Bog  Island  ;  the  farms  along  its  shores  also  look  very 
pretty  from  this  point.  The  Saddleback  Range  and  Mount 
Bigelow,  seen  in  the  distance,  also  add  to  the  beauty  of  this  pict- 
ure. Another  short  walk  brings  us  to  the  third  place,  where  Mr. 
Ellis  so  judiciously  wielded  an  axe  in  the  interests  of  tourists,  and 
discloses  nearly  the  whole  of  Oquossoc  Lake,  with  Rangeley 
Village  and  adjacent  farms.  Far  away,  looming  up  against 
the  blue  sky,  are  East  and  West  Kennebago  Mountains. 
Oquossoc  Outlet,  and  the  hotel  at  the  foot  of  the  lake,  lie  just 
below  us,  the  hotel  being  diminished  to  Liliputian  size.  Turning 
westward,  another  short  walk  brings  us  to  the  fourth  and  last  of 
these  vistas.  This  final  picture  is  perhaps  the  prettiest  of  the 
whole,  as  it  commands  an  extensive  view  of  the  northern  wilder- 
ness stretching  away  to  Canada :  the  upper  part  of  Mooseluc- 
maguntic  Lake,  with  its  cluster  of  islands,  Cupsuptic  Narrows, 
Haines'  Landing,  with  Richardson's  Camp,  Frye's  Camp,  Eaglb 
Point  just  above,  the  whole  of  Cupsuptio  Lake,  Birch  Island, 
the  clearing  at  Indian  Rock,  with  Camp  Kennebago  nestled  amid 
the  woods,  West  Kennebago,  and  several  of  the  Boundary 
Mountains,  the  line  between  American  and  British  possessions. 
Observatory  Mountain,  and  the  giant  peaks  of  Azisoohos,  the 
monarch  of  the  hills  in  this  region,  are  also  brought  within  range 
of  vision  from  this  point  of  observation.  From  here  a  walk  of 
fifteen  or  twenty  minutes  brings  you  to  Allerton  Lodge.  Many 
ladies  make  the  ascent  of  the  mountain  from  the  Lodge,  and  it 
is  not  at  all  tiresome. 

Leaving  Bugle  Cove,  and  coasting  along  the  shore,  we  pass 
two  private  camps,  cosily  nestled  among  the  woods  on  the  east 
side  of  the  lake.  The  first  of  these  is  Camp  Haverhill,  and 
the  second.  Camp  Houghton.  Just  beyond  these  the  steamer 
makes  a  landing  at  Richardson's. 

Richardson's  Camps,  ob  Hotel,  are  the  largest  and  most 


134  FARRAR'S  ILLUSTRATED   GUIDE. 

complete  of  any  on  Mooselucmagdntic  Lake,  and  stand  a  few 
rods  from  the  water,  at  a  point  known  as  Haines*  Landing.  The 
steamer  touches  here  several  times  a  day,  making  it  a  very  con- 
venient place  to  stop  at.  A  carry  road  leads  from  this  house  to 
Oqcossoc  Outlet,  — a  distance  of  two  miles,  —  where  connec- 
tion is  made  with  the  steamer  on  Oqcossoc  Lake.  A  team  is  run 
on  the  carry  for  the  transportation  of  baggage  and  small  boats. 

The  buildings  consist  of  a  handsome,  modern-built,  two-story- 
and-a-half  house,  with  two-story  piazza  in  front  and  on  the  south 
side,  containing  twenty  rooms,  lathed  and  plastered,  and  newly 
furnished.  Two  other  camps,  somewhat  smaller,  adjoin  the  main 
house,  the  whole  making  accommodations  for  about  sixty  people. 
A  large  fleet  of  comfortable  row-boats  belong  to  the  establish- 
ment, and  may  be  liired  at  reasonable  prices.  The  terms  at  this 
house  are  $2.00  per  day.  Messrs.  Ellis  and  Adams  have  bought 
out  Mr.  Richardson,  who  has  retired  from  the  management  of 
the  house.  Mr.  Amos  Ellis  will  take  charge  this  spring,  and 
devote  his  wliole  time  to  the  business,  and  under  his  charge  the 
house  will  no  doubt  be  as  successful  in  the  future  as  it  has  been 
in  the  past. 

Large  trout  are  plenty  in  the  immediate  vicinity  of  Richardson's, 
and  many  are  taken  with  bait  by  trolling  and  deep  fishing,  from 
the  time  the  ice  goes  out  to  about  the  middle  of  August.  There 
is  also  good  fly-fishing  for  three  or  four  weeks  from  the  middle 
of  June,  and  through  September. 

The  view  from  the  piazza  of  Richardson's  Hotel  is  one  of  the 
finest  in  the  upper  section  of  the  lake  region,  and  commands  an 
unobstructed  view  of  the  largest  part  of  the  lake,  the  sheet  of 
water  in  sight  being  about  eight  miles  long  and  two  wide.  All 
the  mountain  ranges  southward  stand  out  prominent,  and  the 
sunsets  from  this  spot  are  beautiful. 

Leaving  Haines*  Landing  the  steamer  soon  passes  Pink 
Point,  on  which  the  Buckfield  Camp  is  located,  owned  by  an  asso- 
ciation of  gentlemen  from  Buckfield,  Me.  In  high  water  the 
boat  runs  up  the  cast  side  of  the  lake,  crossing  the  bar,  and  enters 
the  river,  the  outlet  of  Oquossoc  and  Kennebago  Lakes.  Contin- 
uing on  for  two  miles  you  reach  the  junction  of  the  Kennebago 
and  Rangeley  Streaus,  and  land  opposite  Indian  Rock. 

The  generally  traveled  route  betvveen  the   Uppeb  Dam  and 


136  FARRAR'S  ILLUSTRATED   GUIDE  TO 

Indian  Rock  is  shorter  and  more  direct  than  the  one  just  de- 
scribed, the  distance  being  only  ten  miles. 

By  the  more  direct  route  the  steamer,  after  clearing  Tkout 
Cove,  takes  a  north-east  cotirse,  passing  Sandy  Cove  and 
Brandt  Point  on  the  left,  good  fishing-ground  ih  this  vicinity, 
and  running  between  Brandt  Point  and  Student  Island.  As 
you  emerge  from  Trout  Cove  the  view  looking  east  is  very  fine. 
There  is  a  large  number  of  mountains  in  that  direction,  the 
BioELOW  Twin  Peaks  being  the  mc/«t  conspicuous. 

Above  Brandt  Point  the  lake  makes  a  curve  to  the  left,  form- 
ing a  bay  that  is  filled  with  small  islands,  adding  materially  to  the 
beauty  of  that  locality.  In  front  of  you  Richardson's  Hotel 
looms  up  prominently  against  the  dark  background  of  forest. 
Beyond  may  be  seen  the  Kennebaoo,  Spotted,  and  other  moun- 
tains that  overlook  the  lake  in  that  direction.  Following  the 
west  side  of  the  lake,  this  time,  we  soon  reach  Cupsuptio  Nar- 
rows, through  which  the  steamer  runs  at  low  water,  passing  on 
the  left  Frye's  Camp,  —  a  picturesque  little  building,  standing  on 
a  high  rock  that  rises  abruptly  from  the  water  near  Eagle  Point. 
It  is  the  property  of  Hon.  William  P.  Frye,  of  Lewiston,  Me., 
the  distinguished  member  of  Congress  representing  the  district 
of  which  Franklin  County  forms  a  part ;  he  is  also  one  of  the 
Executive  Committee  of  the  Oquossoc  Angling  Association. 
Crossing  the  foot  of  the  lake  we  enter  the  river,  and  are  soon  at 
Indian  Rock,  which  is  nothing  but  a  flat  ledge  on  the  opposite 
side  of  the  river  from  the  association's  camp. 

There  is  no  "  carry  "  between  Cupsuptio  and  Mooselucma- 
ouNTic  Lake,  the  two  sheets  of  water  being  connected  by  a  strip 
of  "  narrows  "  ;  and  thus  you  have  one  unbroken  expanse  of  water 
for  a  distance  of  fifteen  miles,  situated  in  the  midst  of  a  vast  wil- 
derness, and  surrounded  on  all  sides  by  hills  and  mountains, 
many  of  which  are  grand  and  picturesque. 

A  local  tradition  explains  the  elongated  name  of  this  lake  as  fol- 
lows :  A  hunter,  who  was  out  after  moose,  met  with  such  poor  suc- 
cess that  he  almost  famished.  He  said,  "I  had  been  four  days 
without  game,  and  naturally  without  anything  to  eat,  except  pine 
cones  and  green  chestnuts.  There  was  no  game  in  the  forest. 
The  trout  would  not  bite,  for  I  had  no  tackle  or  hook.  I  was 
starving.     I  sat  down,  and  rested  my  trusty  but  futile  rifle  against 


THE  ANDROSCOGGIN  LAKES.  137 

a  fallen  tree.  Suddenly  I  heard  a  tread,  turned  ray  head,  saw  a 
moose, — took  —  my  —  gun  —  tick!  he  was  dead.  I  was  saved. 
I  feasted,  and  in  gratitude  named  the  lake  Moosetookmyguntick." 
The  name  has  undergone  some  modifications  since  its  origin ;  but 
it  cannot  be  misunderstood. 

At  the  foot  of  CuPSOPTic  Lake,  in  the  vicinity  of  the  narrows 
and  the  mouth  of  the  river,  is  excellent  fishing-ground,  furnishing 
good  sport  to  those  stopping  at  Indian  Rock  or  Richardson's. 

CopsuPTic  Lake  is  1,486  feet  above  tide-water,  and  is  the  most 
northerly  of  the  chain.  Capt.  Barker  runs  a  small  open  steam 
launch  three  times  a  week  between  Indian  Rock  and  Cupsuptic 
Falls.  Fare  $1.00  each  way.  Leaving  Indian  Rock  about  eight 
o'clock  in  the  morning,  we  run  down  to  the  mouth  of  the  river, 
and  a  turn  to  the  right  brings  us  in  to  the  lower  part  of  the  lake ; 
and  running  northward  we  pass  Eagle  Point  on  the  right,  a 
barren  ledge,  stowing  well-defined  traces  of  many  a  camp-fire. 
Bald  Mountain,  omnipresent  in  this  part  of  the  region,  towers 
up  behind  the  southern  bank  of  the  river.  The  passage  between 
Eagle  Point  and  the  western  shore  of  the  lake  is  narrow ;  an 
inward  sweep  of  the  shore  from  the  mouth  of  the  river  to  Eagle 
Point  makes  a  large  cove,  or  bay,  whose  shores  are  dotted  with 
boulders,  and  fringed  with  a  dense  forest,  continuing  back  as  far 
as  the  eye  can  see.  The  peninsula  known  as  Eagle  Point 
is  an  island  during  high  water.  West  Kennebago  Mountain, 
a  sharp,  symmetrical  peak,  which  has  been  in  sight  on  our  right, 
disappears  from  view  as  we  round  Eagle  Point. 

Passing  tlie  point,  the  entire  length  of  the  lake  is  seen,  with 
Pine  and  Bmcn  Islands,  the  larger  of  the  two  in  the  distance. 
Above  Eagle  Point,  on  the  east  side,  a  deep  indentation  in  the 
shore,  known  as  Tootiiakek  Cove,  attracts  attention  from  its 
picturesque  setting.  From  the  deepest  part  of  the  cove,  across 
the  wood  to  Kennebago  Lake,  is  only  six  miles,  in  an  air-line, 
that  would  end  near  Kennebago  Outlet.  If  a  trail  were  cut 
across  here  this  would  by  all  means  be  the  quickest  and  most 
direct  route  to  Kennebago  Lake,  and,  before  another  season 
opens,  a  carry  between  Cupsuptic  and  Kennebago  will  undoubt- 
edly be  made. 

Cupsuptic,  although  the  smallest  of  the  Androscoggin  Lakes, 
is  one  of  the  prettiest,  surrounded  as  it  is  by  "shapely  hills,  gradu- 


138  FARRAU'S  ILLUSTRATED   GUIDE. 

ally  sweeping  up  to  mountain  heights,  covered  to  their  summits 
with  a  dense  and  unbroken  forest  of  hard  and  soft  timber.  Oppo- 
site Pine  Island,  on  the  western  shore,  one  of  the  guides  has 
built  a  little  log  camp  for  the  accommodation  of  fishermen.  A 
short  distance  above,  on  the  same  side  of  the  lake,  is  the  outlet  of 
CopsupTic  River.  This  is  navigable  for  the  steamer  at  high 
water  as  far  as  the  falls.  At  the  mouth  of  the  stream  George 
Soule  has  a  small  camp. 

The  mouth  of  the  river  is  close  iii  by  the  western  shore  of  the 
lake.  From  here  it  twists  and  turns  for  several  miles,  through  a 
meadow  or  swamp,  dotted  with  dead  trees,  and  covered  with  tall, 
rank  grass,  and  various  kinds  of  bushes,  which  are  under  water 
part  of  the  year.  This  was  once  a  favorite  feeding-ground  for 
moose,  and  they  are  still  occasionally  met  with  in  the  vicinity. 

Nothing  can  be  more  romantic  or  picturesque  than  a  sail 
on  this  winding  and  crooked  river.  A  mile  oi*more  from  the 
lake  dead  trees  are  scattered  sparsely  along  either  bank.  These 
increase  for  a  while  as  you  go  up  the  river,  until  live  ones  begin 
to  mingle  with  them.  As  you  sail  farther  up  the  stream,  a  live 
forest  appears,  a  pleasant  change  from  the  dead  growth ;  and  the 
banks  of  the  river  rise  gradually,  until  they  reach  a  height  of  six 
or  eight  feet.  Half  way  to  the  falls,  on  the  left  bank  of  the  river, 
Soule  has  a  birch-bark  camp,  where  any  wandering  fishermen  can 
take  shelter. 

A  mile  or  two  below  the  falls,  on  the  right  hand  going  up,  a 
New  York  gentleman  has  had  a  comfortable  camp  constructed, 
consisting  of  two  log-cabins,  and  here  he  spends  the  greater  part 
of  the  summer.  One  of  the  novelties  of  the  establishment  is  a 
female  guide,  who  has  been  with  the  owner  of  the  camp  in  that 
capacity  for  a  number  of  seasons. 

The  distance  from  Indian  Rock  to  Cupsuptic  Falls  is  nine  miles  : 
five  from  the  rock  to  the  mouth  of  the  river,  and  four  up  the 
river  to  the  falls ;  dead  water  all  the  way.  The  carry  around  the 
rapids  is  about  1,100  yards  long;  it  leaves  the  stream  on  the  left 
bank,  following  an  old  "tote  "  road.  The  walking  is  good.  Above 
the  rapids  you  take  a  row-boat,  and  continue  on  eight  miles  to 
the  Parmachenee  carry.  The  river  is  swift,  crooked,  and  shallow 
the  entire  distance;  the  greater  part  of  the  way  you  can  row,  but 
you  will  find  many  places  where  you  can  use  a  setting-pole  to 


140 


FARRAU'S    ILLUSTRATED   GUIDE. 


better  advantage  than  oars,  and  a  few  where  you  will  liave  to  get 
out  and  drag  your  boat,  the  water  is  so  shallow. 

The  Parmachenee  carry  begins  on  the  west  bank  of  the  river, 
opposite  two  small  grass  islands.  It  extends  across  the  range  of 
mountains  lying  between  the  Cupsdptic  and  Magalloway  Rivebs  ; 
at  the  latter  river  it  ends  just  below  Black  Cat  Brook.  There  is 
boating  on  the  river  and  lake  up  to  Daxforth's  Ca.mp,  on  Treat's 
Island,  in  Parmachenee,  —  a  distance  of  three  miles.  The  length 
of  the  carry  is  variously  estimated,  Interested  parties  calling  the 
distance  five  miles,  while  some  of  the  sportsmen  claim  it  is  ten. 
From  hearing  various  opinions,  we  should  judge  that  it  was  about 
eight  miles.  It  is  up  hill  and  down,  quite  steep  in  some  places, 
and  very  good  walking  most  of  the  way.  Fred  Barker  will  fur- 
nish guides  from  Indian  Rock  to  Parmachenee,  when  he  cannot 
act  in  that  capacity  liimself.  In  summer  tiie  mail  is  carried  once 
a  week,  each  way,  Saturday  out,  Monday  in,  between  Camp  Cari- 
bou (Danforth's)  and  Camp  Kennebago,  Indian  Rock. 

Capt.  Barker  carries  passengers  bound  for  Parmachenee  up 
Cupsuptic  River  in  the  steamer  Oquossoc.  The  boat  has  no  regular 
day  for  running,  but  will  take  parties  up,  or  go  up  to  meet  parties 
and  bring  them  down,  whenever  he  receives  notice  to  that  effect. 


CHAPTER  X. 

jFrom    Intitan    Eock    to    (©quossoc    ©utlet, 
Eangeleg  Utllagc,   ^reenfaale,   antr  tijc 
ijeatr  of  ©quossoc  ^afte* 

;EFORE  leaving  Indian  Rock  some  information  in 
regard  to  the  club  who  have  their  head-quarters 
here  will  not  come  amiss. 

Camp  Kennebago,  the  head-quarters  of  the 
Oquossoc  Angling  Association,  is  situated  on 
rising  ground,  a  few  rods  from  the  junction  of  the 
Kennebago  and  Rangeley  streams.  This  camp 
is  kept  open  from  May  15th  to  October  1st,  and  is  under  the 
charge  of  Mr.  I.  N.  Packard. 

Many  years  ago  an  old  hermit,  by  the  name  of  Smith,  camped 
at  Indian  Rock,  and  cleared  up  a  small  space  of  land.  He  af- 
terwards sold  out  his  interest  in  the  place  to  Mr.  Richardson,  who 
built  a  rough  camp  by  the  river-side  for  the  accommodation  of 
fishermen,  which  was  burned  down,  and  a  handsome  and  commo- 
dious boat-house  was  erected  on  the  site.  Mr.  Richardson,  after 
some  years,  disposed  of  his  interest  in  the  place  to  the  Oquossoc 
Angling  Association,  who  built  a  fine  camp,  now  used  by  the 
members,  and  made  many  valuable  improvements  on  the  ground. 
Mr.  Richardson  was  engaged  by  the  club  as  superintendent, 
which  position  he  held  until  the  fall  of  1880,  when  he  resigned, 
to  embark  in  the  hotel  business. 

The  Oquossoc  Angling  Association  was  incorporated  Feb.  oth, 
1870,  and  now  numbers  one  hundred  members.  The  value  of 
their  property  and  improvements  at  Camp  Kennebago  is  about 
$25,000.  The  Association  own  several  buildings  besides  their 
large  camp,  which  is  a  building  40  X  100  feet ;  they  also  own  a 
Oil} 


THE  ANDROSCOGGIN  LAKES.  143 


fleet  of  thirty  boats.  The  meetings  of  the  Association  are  held 
at  Camp  Kennebago,  in  June  of  each  year.  A.  D.  Lockwood, 
President;  Weston  Lewis,  Vice  President;  and  James  A.  Wil- 
liamson, Secretary  and  Treasurer. 

All  fishing  and  shooting  by  members  of  the  Association  is  con- 
ducted strictly  in  accordance  with  the  game  artd  fish  laws  of 
Maine,  and  the  Association  has  been  largely  instrumental  since 
its  organization  in  preventing  the  breaking  of  the  fish  laws  by 
wandering  fishermen  and  others  who  have  no  regard  for  the  pres- 
ervation of  the  fishing. 

The  Oquossoc  Angling  Association,  assisted  by  others  of  the 
visiting  sportsmen,  who,  although  not  members  of  the  club,  have 
generally  camps  of  their  own,  during  the  past  five  years  have 
stocked  the  water  in  the  immediate  vicinity  of  the  club-house 
with  many  thousand  of  the  famous  landlocked  salmon,  and  they 
are  now  being  captured :  one  was  taken  near  Camp  Kennebago, 
weighing  two  pounds ;  another,  of  about  the  same  weight,  was 
also  caught  by  one  of  the  Andover  guides  at  the  Upper  Dam  ; 
and  a  third  one  was  caught  in  the  Oquossoc  Lake  by  a  gentleman 
from  Boston.  Each  season  some  of  these  fish  are  captured, 
showing  that  they  are  on  the  increase,  and  the  last  that  I  heard 
of  weighed,  according  to  report,  four  and  a  half  and  six  pounds. 

The  Association  Camp  is  not  open  to  the  general  public ;  but 
persons  who  arc  suflBciently  well  acquainted  with  the  members 
can  obtain  permission  to  stop  there  during  July  and  August; 
for  the  months  of  June  and  September  it  is  reserved  for  mem- 
bers. 

There  are  good  accommodations  for  ladies  at  Camp  Kennebago 
during  the  months  of  July  and  August,  as  at  that  time  there  are 
very  few  members  of  the  Association  in  camp. 

A  new  building,  designed  to  give  better  accommodation  to  ladies, 
was  built  during  the  winter  of  1878.  It  stands  on  the  old  site  of 
the  Bald  Eagle  Camp,  the  latter  having  been  moved  farther  to  the 
west.  The  building  is  30  X  56  feet  on  the  ground,  two  stories 
high,  and  contains  eighteen  sleeping-rooms,  besides  a  large  sit- 
ting-room. The  rooms  are  ceiled  with  matched  boards,  and  com- 
fortably furnished. 

The  dining-room  in  the  main  camp  has  been  enlarged,  and  most 
of  the  beds  in  the  large  room  have  been  removed,  and  that  is  now 


144  FARRAR'S   ILLUSTRATED  GUIDE. 

used  as  a  common  sitting-room  Other  improvements  have  Been 
made  which  add  to  the  attractions  and  comforts  of  this  beautiful 
place. 

The  regular  rate  of  board  in  the  camp  is  $2.00  per  day.  Guides' 
board  (which  is  always  paid  by  the  party  engaging  the  guide), 
.$1.00  per  day.  The  Superintendent  will  furnish  guides  at  $2.00 
per  day,  and  boats  at  50  cents  per  day. 

The  managers  of  the  Oquossoc  Angling  Association  have  re- 
tained all  the  charming  semi-aboriginal  character  in  their  camps, 
grounds,  and  appointments.  While  the  furniture  is  sufficiently 
comfortable  to  suit  the  most  fastidious,  yet  the  contrast  between 
Camp  Kennebago  and  the  hotels  is  everything  that  the  two  terms 
indicate.  The  true  idea  of  a  "  lodge  in  the  vast  wilderness  "  is 
here  seen  and  enjoyed.  The  members  are  not  confined  to  Camp 
Kennebago  alone.  The  Association  own  camps  on  Birch 
Island,  near  the  mouth  of  Cupsuptic  Stream  ;  on  Kennebago 
Stream,  seven  miles  from  the  main  camp ;  and  on  Little  Ken- 
nebago Pond.  Among  the  highly  appreciated  but  unusual 
adjuncts  of  a  camp  in  the  wild  woods  are  two  cows,  a  horse, 
poultry,  etc.,  a  fine  vegetable  and  fruit  garden,  ice-house,  and 
bath-room. 

Parties  going  through  the  lakes  should  by  all  means  visit  Camp 
Kennebago,  and  inspect  the  buildings  and  premises.  The  Su- 
perintendent is  courteous  and  pleasant,  and  will  give  you  any 
information  required. 

"We  present  our  readers  with  two  views  of  Camp  Kennebago. 
The  first  is  made  from  the  "  Rock,"  showing  the  camp  in  the 
distance.  The  second  is  an  interior,  showing  the  main  apart- 
ment of  the  building,  which  is  used  for  a  sleeping-room  and 
sitting-room.  This  is  a  very  comfortable  room,  with  a  row  of 
beds  on  each  side,  a  long  table  in  the  middle,  and  an  immense 
fireplace  in  one  corner,  which  is  capable  of  holding  half  a  cord 
of  wood  at  a  time,  and  is  of  itself  quite  a  curiosity.  Books, 
papers,  and  a  cabinet  organ,  help  the  members  to  while  away  the 
time  in  unpleasant  weather.  The  dining-room  opens  out  of  the 
large  room,  and  tables  can  be  set  for  about  forty  people  at  once. 

We  would  also  speak  of  the  famous  brook  trout,  captured  in 
1867  at  the  outlet  of  Rangeley  Lake,  retained  a  captive  for  three 
weeks,  transported  alive  in  a  large  tank  of  water,  lined  with 


146  FARRAR'S  ILLUSTRATED   GUIDE  TO 

sponge,  and  supplied  with  fresh  air  by  an  air-pump,  to  the  pond 
of  George  Shepard  Page,  Stanley,  N.J.  The  tank  also  contained 
a  female  brook  trout,  weighing  eight  and  one  quarter  pounds. 
These  trout  both  died.  The  former  weighed  ten  pounds  after  his 
death.  It  is  a  matter  of  regret  that  his  weight  when  captured 
was  not  taken.  Professor  Agassiz  and  Professor  Baird  have 
stated  that  he  must  have  weighed  eleven  and  a  half  pounds. 
But,  at  the  weight  of  ten  pounds,  he  challenges  the  admiration  of 
anglers  as  being  one  of  the  largest  brook  trout  on  record.  His 
stuffed  skin  forms  a  prominent  ornament  of  the  office  of  Mr. 
Page,  in  New  York. 

From  Indian  Rock  to  Oquossoc  Outlet  is  a  distance  of  two 
miles  through  the  forest.  This  carry  you  will  have  to  walk, 
but  you  can  hire  your  baggage  transported  by  team.  Arriving  at 
the  lake  you  can  cross  over  to  the  Mountain  View  House, 
which  is  in  sight  from  the  wharf,  by  row-boat  or  steamer,  passing 
on  your  way  Lake  Point  Cottage,  built  by  Theodore  Page, 
but  now  the  property  of  R.  A.  Tuttlc,  Esq.,  of  Jamaica  Plain, 
Mass.  It  is  very  prettily  situated  on  a  little  point  that  makes 
into  the  lake  near  the  outlet. 

A  new  hatching-house  for  the  propagation  of  trout  has  been 
built  by  several  parties  interested  in  the  preservation  of  the  fishing 
at  Oquossoc  Outlet,  and  is  now  in  successful  operation. 

About  one  million  of  the  spotted  brook  trout  are  hatched  at  this 
house  each  winter,  and  distributed  among  the  different  lakes  in 
the  Androscoggin  chain.  For  several  years  past  from  two  to  five 
hundred  thousand  landlocked  salmon  eggs  have  been  hatched 
here  each  winter,  and  this  last  winter  one  hundred  thousand  white- 
fish  eggs  have  been  hatched.  This  hatching-house  is  supported 
and  kept  running  by  subscriptions  from  the  fishermen  who  fre- 
quent the  lakes. 

The  house  is  taken  care  of,  and  the  hatching  carried  on,  by  Mr. 
Frank  Hewey,  one  of  the  oldest  guides  in  the  region. 

The  Mountain  View  House  was  built  at  Oquossoc  Outlet, 
on  the  old  site  of  Soule's  "  Camp  Henry,"  during  the  winter  of 
1875,  by  Henry  T.  Kimball,  and  is  a  popular  resort  for  tourists 
and  sportsmen.  We  present  our  readers  with  views  of  the  old 
camp  and  the  new  house.  Additions  were  made  to  the  house 
during  the  winter  of  1877,  and  it  now  has  good  accommodations 


THE   ANDROSCOGGIN   LAKES.  147 

for  about  seventy-five  guests.  The  terms  at  this  house  are  $2.00 
per  day.  A  livery  stable  is  connected  with  the  house,  and  Mr. 
Kimball  has  some  good  horses  and  teams  to  let.  It  is  only  seven 
miles  to  Rangeley  Village  from  the  Outlet,  and  those  wishing 
teams  can  have  them  at  any  time.  A  large  number  of  row-boats 
are  kept  at  the  liotel,  and  may  be  hired  at  reasonable  prices. 

Some  of  the  best  fishing-places  near  the  hotel  are  over  to  the 
South  Bog,  at  the  dam,  and  in  the  lake  at  the  Outlet. 

The  Mountain  View  Hocse  is  kept  open  from  June  1  to  Oct.  1. 

June  and  September  are  the  two  best  months  for  fishing  here, 
although  trout  may  be  found  in  July  and  August. 

Bald  Mountain,  which  stands  directly  opposite  the  Mountain 
View  House,  commands  a  fine  view  of  tJie  surrounding  country. 
Its  ascent  is  not  very  difficult,  and  the  beautiful  landscape  it 
overlooks  Avill  well  repay  any  one  for  the  time  and  trouble  spent 
in  making  it.  A  guide  is  not  really  necessary,  although  perhaps 
it  would  be  better  to  take  one  with  you. 

Embarking  on  the  jaunty  little  steamer  Molly-Chunkamunk 
(a  corruption  of  the  name  of  one  of  the  lower  lakes),  you  leave 
the  outlet,  and  in  a  few  minutes  pass  a  pretty  cottage  on  the  left 
hand,  the  property  of  John  R.  Toothaker. 

The  distance  to  Greenvale,  at  the  head  of  the  lake,  is  nine 
miles.  Passing  out  of  the  cove  you  descry  South  Bog  Island 
in  the  distance,  and  in  its  vicinity  the  fishing  is  good.  Gradually 
the  boat  heads  to  the  east,  and  you  obtain  a  fine  view  of  the  Sad- 
dle-back, and  other  mountain  ranges  surrounding  the  lake. 
Nearly  all  of  the  land  on  the  northern  side,  and  a  large  part  of 
the  southern  side,  of  Oquossoc  Lake  has  been  cleared  up  and  put 
into  farms ;  and,  while  these  are  a  pretty  and  quiet  feature  in  the 
landscape,  they  detract  from  its  wildness  and  romance,  and  the 
scenery  is  inferior  to  that  on  the  lakes  below,  where  are  unbroken 
forests  entirely  free  from  farms. 

The  boat  follows  the  northern  shore  of  the  lake,  and  a  few 
miles  from  the  outlet  you  pass  on  the  left  a  pretty  little  cottage 
standing  at  the  edge  of  the  water,  built  for  a  summer  residence, 
by  a  Mr.  Ellis,  of  Gardiner,  Me.  Beyond  on  your  right  is  Ram 
Island,  purchased  several  years  ago  by  an  association  of  Boston 
gentlemen,  who  talked  of  building  a  hotel  on  it;  but  nothing 
toward  the  erection  of  a  building  has  yet  been  done.     The  island 


148  FARRAR'S  ILLUSTRATED  GUIDE. 

is  seen  in  our  engraving  of  the  lake.  The  distance  to  Rangeley 
Village,  or  the  *'  City,"  as  it  has  been  nicknamed,  is  six  miles,  and 
the  steamer  lands  at  the  head  of  a  small  cove,  that  heads  north- 
east from  the  lake.  Passengers  who  wish  to  stop  here  are  mot  by 
teams  and  taken  up  to  the  hotels,  there  being  two  in  the  town. 
Both  of  the  houses  are  but  a  few  minutes'  walk  from  the  lake. 
The  smallest,  the  Oqcossoc  House,  was  built  by  the  late  Abner 
Toothaker,  and,  as  its  accommodations  are  limited,  it  ia  resorted 
to  mostly  by  the  country  people.  Mr.  Edward  Grant  is  the  present 
proprietor. 

Rakoeley  is  quite  a  village,  it  containing  about  thirty  dwelling- 
houses,  two  stores,  a  post-office,  carriage-shop,  two  blacksmith's 
shops,  a  boat-builder's  shop,  a  saw-mill,  shoe-shop,  and  the  two 
hotels  already  mentioned,  the  Raxgeley  Lake  House  being  the 
latest  built. 

This  new  and  spacious  house  is  one  of  the  largest  and  finest 
hotels  in  the  lake  region,  as  will  be  seen  from  our  engraving. 
It  is  three  and  a  half  stories  high,  with  a  two-story  ell,  and  con- 
tains about  fifty  rooms.  There  is  a  cupola  on  the  top  of  the  main 
house,  from  which  beautiful  and  extensive  views  of  the  lake  and 
surrounding  country  can  be  obtained,  and  the  broad  piazzas  fur- 
nish an  excellent  promenade.  This  hotel  was  built  and  newly 
furnished  during  the  winter  of  1877,  by  John  A.  Burke,  Esq  ,  and 
has  superior  accommodations  for  some  seventy-five  guests.  It  is 
the  most  popular  hoiiso  in  this  vicinity,  and  under  Mr.  Burke's 
careful  and  judicious  management  continues  to  grow  in  favor 
with  summer  visitors.  The  terms  are  .$2.00  per  day.  Mr.  Burke 
can  always  furnish  guides  and  boats  to  all  who  desire  them,  and, 
having  a  good  livery-stable,  can  supply  his  guests  witli  teams  at 
any  time.  The  Pliillips  stage  puts  up  at  the  house,  and  Messrs. 
Burke  and  Rogers  are  the  proprietors  of  the  line.  The  distance 
from  Rangeley  to  Phillips  is  twenty-one  miles. 

Returning  to  the  steamer,  we  start  for  Greenvale,  three  miles 
distant.  All  the  way  along  we  have  a  fine  view  of  the  mountains 
towering  up  in  every  direction.  As  we  approach  the  head,  the 
lake  decreases  in  width,  forming  a  long,  narrow  arm,  and  at  the  end 
of  this  the  steamer  lands.  The  settlement  here  is  small,  consist- 
ing of  the  hotel,  post-office,  and  a  few  other  buildings.  You 
walk  up  to  the  Gkeenvalb  House,  a  well-kept  and  comfortable 


150  FARRAll'S   ILLUSTRATED   GUIDE. 

hotel,  managed  by  Mr.  George  Esty.  You  can  procure  a  good 
dinner  here  for  fifty  cents,  and  if  you  are  going  to  Phillips  the 
stage  will  call  here  for  you.  The  fishing  in  the  spring  is  very 
good  at  the  head  of  the  lake,  and  the  hotel  at  that  time  is  gener- 
ally well  filled.  Mr.  Esty  has  a  good  livery-stable,  and  persons 
who  wish  to  spend  a  few  days  here  can  obtain  teams  to  take  them 
in  any  direction. 

From  a  high  hill,  in  a  pasture  near  the  hotel,  a  splendid  view  of 
Lake  Oquossoc  may  be  obtained,  Including  some  fine  mountain 
scenery.  The  extensive  and  varied  landscape  spread  out  before 
you  when  standing  on  the  top  of  this  hill  and  overlooking  the 
lake,  will  well  repay  for  the  tiresome  climb  to  its  summit. 

A  short  distance  from  the  Greenvale  House  is  a  little  moun- 
tain stream,  not  only  noted  for  its  excellent  fishing,  but  also  for 
its  fine  scenery.  Follow  it  up  for  a  quarter  of  a  mile  from  the 
road,  and  you  will  come  to  a  deep  ravine  cut  out  of  the  solid  rock 
by  the  powerful  action  of  water  during  the  spring  freshets.  This 
ravine  extends  up  the  stream  for  quite  a  distance,  the  brook  being 
broken  all  through  it  by  rapids,  cascades,  and  falls.  Along  its 
sides,  where  the  water  has  washed  out  all  the  earth,  huge  crevices 
are  found  in  the  rocks,  and  from  several  of  these,  in  the  last  of 
June,  1876,  we  took  some  splendid  ice,  many  of  the  pieces  being 
two  or  three  pounds  in  weight.  It  is  a  wild  and  romantic  place, 
and  one  which  is  eagerly  sought  after  by  lovers  of  nature.  The 
dark  rocks,  the  water  flashing  in  the  sunlight,  the  numerous  nat- 
ural bridges,  caused  by  trees  which  have  been  uprooted  by  tem- 
pests and  have  fallen  across  the  ravine,  the  roar  of  the  cataract, 
the  grateful  shade  to  be  had  under  the  old  forest-trees,  are  all 
congenial  to  one  who  wishes  to  walk  in  nature's  solitudes,  and 
who  can  appreciate  such  a  wild  country.  When  visiting  the 
Greenvale  House,  by  all  means  spare  half  a  day  to  visit  this 
brook,  as  we  are  confident  you  will  be  well  satisfied  with  the  time 
so  spent.  We  publish  several  stereoscopic  views  which  we  made 
in  this  vicinity. 


CHAPTER  XI. 


Eattgelra  Ftllage,  l^cnnetiago  Hafte,  ant*  tfjc 
.Seben  Pontrg. 


*«v-»*'*  — 


QUOSSOC  Lake  is  the  highest  in 
the  Androscoggin  chain,  and  is 
1,513  feet  above  tide-water.  It  is 
nine  miles  long,  and  from  one  and 
a  half  to  three  miles  wide.  The 
town  of  Rangeley  nearly  surrounds 
the  lake,  and  is  mostly  on  liigh 
land. 

We  take  the  following  extract 
from  "  Harper's  Magazine  "  :  — 
*'  Rangeley  perpetuates  the  name 
of  an  eccentric  but  thrifty  English  squire,  who  penetrated  the  wil- 
derness thus  far  many  years  ago,  and  laid  the  foundations  of  the 
prosperous  plantation  which  is  his  monument  to-day.  His  story 
is  a  romantic  and  interesting  one. 

"  Mr.  Rangeley,  for  a  time  after  coming  to  this  country,  was  a 
merchant  in  Philadelphia,  and  later  a  land  speculator  in  Virginia, 
with  all  parts  of  which  State  he  was  very  familiar.  He  is  de- 
scribed as  having  the  substantial  build  and  florid  countenance  of 
the  traditional  English  squire,  witli  a  corresponding  hearty  man- 
ner, but  an  exceptional  degree  of  politeness  and  polish  for  a  man 
of  his  kind;  he  also  dressed  well,  and  was  given  to  hospitality. 

"  To  his  early  life  he  seldom  referred ;  and  what  led  him  to  this 
remote  corner  of  the  wilderness  of  Maine  can  only  be  conjectured. 
Perhaps  it  was  the  scent  of  mineral  values,  for  he  was  known  to 
claim  the  existence  of  gold  ore  upon  his  township;  and  he  was  a 
man  who  knew  wliat  iron  pyrites  were.  The  townsliip,  as  lie 
owned  it,  comprised  somewhere  from  65,000  to  70,000  acres,  and 

m) 


152  FARRAR'S   ILLUSTRATED   GUIDE. 

he  had  large  plans  for  its  development.  The  present  extensive 
and  growing  system  of  navigation  and  lumber  portage  scema  to 
have  been  a  dream  of  his  own,  for  he  fully  foresaw  the  resources 
and  capabilities  of  his  domain.  He  built  various  mills,  some  of 
which  remain  to  this  day.  These  were  superintended  by  his 
sons,  wlio  had  tlie  look  of  huntsmen ;  and  he  lived  with  his  wife 
and  two  daughters  in  what  was  then  the  only  good  house  of  the 
region.  This  house  is  believed  to  be  still  in  existence,  but  in  a 
decayed  and  squalid  condition. 

"Mr.  Rangeley  and  his  wife  were  reputed  to  possess  between 
them  a  considerable  fortune ;  but  his  plans  were  on  so  great  a 
scale,  and  his  ability  to  deal  with  the  rude  and  the  shrewd  so 
limited,  that  he  worked  at  nc  small  disadvantage,  at  heavy  cost, 
and  finally  with  serious  loss.  This  led  him  to  sell  his  plantation 
for  $50,000 ;  but  financial  disturbances  so  crippled  the  purchaser, 
who  had  made  but  part  payment,  that  the  property  fell  back  into 
Mr.  Rangeley's  hands.  Subsequently,  with  the  return  of  better 
times,  he  succeeded,  however,  in  disposing  of  it,  and  removed  to 
Portland.  He  was  there  established  as  early  as  1842,  and  there 
lie  died  not  later  than  1862.  Members  of  his  family  are  said  to 
be  still  living  in  Virginia. 

"  Mr.  Rangeley  had  been  followed  into  his  forest  paradise  by  a 
score  or  two  of  families,  one  after  the  other,  and  for  tlieir  accom- 
modation he  built  a  small  church  or  chapel,  which,  distinguisihed 
by  its  simple  coat  of  red  paint,  has  probably  been  preached  in  by 
some  of  the  '  ruling  elders '  of  the  present  time.  It  is  in  the 
record  that  the  worthy  English  squire  did  not  himself  attend  the 
services  in  this  secluded  house  of  prayer,  but  caused  worship 
therein  to  be  held  after  the  manner  of  the  Episcopal  Church,  for 
the  sake  of  his  wife,  who  is  spoken  of  as  a  most  kindly  and 
benevolent  person. 

'♦  Mr.  Rangeley's  greatest  public  work  was  a  road  constructed 
through  '  a  grand  and  savage  pass  '  of  the  Saddleback  range.  Its 
cost  was  set  down  at  $30,000;  but  the  road  itself  is  now  wholly 
obliterated.  The  new  road  is  spoken  of  as  '  wholly  uninterest- 
ing'in  comparison.  The  present  writer  can  say  nothing  as  to 
the  location  of  this  ancient  highway,  but  repeats  the  tradition 
respecting  it  as  received  from  a  gentleman  of  Boston  wlio  person- 
ally knew  Mr.  Rangeley,  aud  who  visited  him  in  his  retreat  several 


IJ^i  FARRAli'S   ILLUSTUATED   GUIDE   TO 

times  prior  to  1840  —  who  is,  indeed,  the  authority  for  all  these 
interesting  particulars  concerning  this  really  notable  and  agreable 
character." 

Kennebago  Lake. 

A  pleasant  excursion  may  be  made  from  the  Ranoblbt  Lake 
-HonsB  to  Lake  Kennebago,  eleven  miles  distant,  three  of  which 
may  be  done  by  team  and  eight  on  foot.  Leaving  the  hotel  you 
drive  down  below  the  village  for  perhaps  a  mile,  then  turning  to 
the  right  drive  two  miles  farther,  the  carriage-road  ending  on  top 
of  a  high  hill,  from  which  you  get  a  very  extensive  view.  From 
this  point  you  can  see  nearly  the  whole  of  Oquossoc  Lake,  Gull 
Pond,  the  west  side  of  Modnt  Saddleback,  and  some  twenty 
other  prominent  peaks  which  have  not  been  christened. 

Leaving  your  team  you  pass  through  a  wide  gate,  the  road  run- 
ning through  several  pastures  and  fields,  and  before  striking  into 
the  woods  you  climb  over  or  walk  by  seven  of  these  gates.  The 
road  bears  to  the  right  most  of  the  time,  and  is  easily  followed. 
On  reaching  the  woods  you  will  find  a  well-worn  path,  and  you 
will  have  no  difficulty  in  keeping  in  it.  On  your  way  you  pass 
several  ponds  on  the  left  of  the  road,  where  good  trout-fishing  may 
be  had  in  the  fall.  Three  hours  is  considered  the  ordinary  time 
in  which  to  make  the  walk.  The  road  is  rough  the  whole  of  the 
way,  and  you  will  not  care  to  do  it.  even  if  you  can,  much  under 
that  time.  Arriving  at  the  head  of  the  lake  you  will  find  Grant 
and  Richardson's  Camp,  known  as  the  Forest  Retreat  House. 
It  is  two  stories,  with  a  piazza,  and  contains  about  twenty  rooms. 
Transient  board  is  $2.00  per  day.  There  is  a  daily  mail  in  summer 
between  Rangeley  and  Kennebago,  the  post-office  being  in  the 
hotel.  The  camp  is  pleasantly  located,  commanding  a  fine  view 
down  the  lake.  They  have  also  several  other  camps  about 
Kennebago  Lake,  and  one  at  Little  Kennebago. 

The  fishing  is  pretty  fair  here  the  entire  season ;  but  the  fish  do 
not  run  as  large  as  in  the  lakes  below.  While  we  were  stopping 
here  one  summer,  Mr.  L.  T.  Reed,  of  the  Oquossoc  Angling 
Association,  cauglit,  while  trolling,  a  very  pretty  trout,  that 
tipped  the  scales  at  four  and  one-half  pounds.  This  was  an 
unusually  large  trout  for  this  lake;  but  small  fish,  that  will 
weigh  from  a  quarter  of  a  pound  to  a  pound  and  a  half,  are  very 


THE   ANDROSCOGGIN   LAKES.  155 

plenty.  Some  of  the  best  places  for  fishing  at  Kennebago  are  at 
the  Outlet,  at  the  foot  of  the  lake,  and  the  Big  Inlet  on  the 
opposite  shore  of  the  lake  from  Crosby's  lower  camp.  About  a 
mile  above  the  Big  Inlet,  on  the  same  side  of  the  lake,  is  a  good 
place  for  trolling.  Blanchard  and  Flat  Iron  Ponds,  within  a  short 
distance  of  the  hotel,  are  well  stocked  with  small  trout,  averaging 
from  a  quarter  to  a  half  pound  each. 

In  going  to  Kennebago  it  is  unnecessary  to  take  a  guide,  as 
you  can  procure  one  after  arrival,  and  if  you  have  any  baggage 
to  carry  you  can  get  it  hauled  in  by  the  buckboard,  that  now 
runs  regularly,  each  day  in  summer.  If  you  do  not  object  to  get- 
ting well  shaken,  you  can  ride  on  the  team ;  but  a  saddle-horse  is 
preferable.  Also  take  our  advice,  and  don't  go  until  August  or 
September.  "We  were  there  the  very  last  of  June,  and  the  black 
flies  and  mosquitoes  were  a  perfect  nuisance.  They  were  the  worst 
at  Kennebago  that  we  ever  found  them  anywhere  in  the  lake  re- 
gion. Tar  and  oil  were  of  no  use,  and  nothing  but  smoke  would 
clear  them.  We  present  our  readers  with  two  views  of  Kenne- 
bago Lake,  one  from  the  head,  embracing  Snowman's  Point,  the 
other  from  a  spot  at  the  foot  of  the  lake  near  Crosby's  old  camp. 
Steamer  "  Caribou  "  has  been  purchased  by  Captain  Thomas,  and 
in  future  will  ply  upon  Kennebago  Lake. 

The  Union  Water  Power  Company  are  talking  of  building  a 
twenty-five  foot  dam  at  the  outlet  of  Kennebago  lake.  If  this 
should  be  done  the  appearance  of  this  sheet  of  water  would  be 
entirely  changed,  as  the  flowage  would  extend  back  as  far  as  Lit- 
tle Kennebago,  making  the  lake  as  wide  as  it  is  long.  The  growth 
around  the  shores  for  some  ways  back  would  also  be  ruined. 

The  Seven  Ponds 

lie  about  a  mile  north  of  Kennebago,  and,  although  difficult  to 
reach,  have  been  visited  by  quite  a  number  of  sportsmen.  There 
is  good  fishing  in  all  the  ponds,  and  the  surrounding  locality  is  an 
excellent  hunting-ground.  Messrs.  Grant  and  Richardson  have  a 
new  camp  at  Beaver  Pond,  and  there  is  also  another  camp  that 
can  be  used  at  Big  Island  Pond.  The  easiest  way  to  reach  them 
is  to  go  up  the  Kennebago  Stream,  and  across  Little  Kenne- 
bago in  a  boat.  Then  a  walk  of  about  seven  miles  will  bring  you 
to  the  first  pond,  and  from  this  it  is  easy  to  reach  the  others. 


15G  FARRAB'S   ILLUSTRATED   GUIDE  TO 

Shooting  a  Moose  on  the  Magallo-way. 

On  the  morning  of  October  4.  1883,  Messrs.  William  B.  Gar- 
field and  William  A.  Canghey,  of  Waltham,  Mass.,  who  were  on 
their  tenth  annual  tour  to  Lake  Umbagog,  left  the  Lakeside  Hotel, 
in  Cambridge,  for  a  trip  up  the  Magalloway  to  Parmachenee  Lake. 
Embarking  on  the  fleet  little  steamer  "  Parmachenee,"  with  their 
boat  in  tow,  they  were  landed  at  the  lower  Magalloway  settlement 
at  noon.  On  their  way  across  the  lake  and  up  the  rivers  they 
were  fortunate  enough  to  shoot  ten  black  ducks,  these  water-fowl 
being  very  plenty,  all  of  which,  through  the  kindness  of  the  captain 
of  the  steamer,  they  were  enabled  to  secure. 

At  the  steamboat-landing  at  Magalloway  a  team  met  them  and 
took  their  stores  and  baggage  to  the  Upper  Settlement,  while  the 
gentlemen  paddled  up  river  in  their  boat.  They  reached  Fred 
Flint's  early  that  afternoon,  and  stopped  at  his  house  over  night. 

The  next  morning,  having  been  joined  by  their  guide,  Mr.  F.  F. 
Mason,  their  boat  and  luggage  were  loaded  on  a  double  team,  and, 
crossing  the  carry,  they  reached  the  dead  water  at  ten  o'clock. 

Launching  their  boat  their  things  were  stowed  in  it  to  the  best 
advantage,  and  a  few  moments  later  the  boat,  propelled  by  Mason's 
sinewy  arms,  was  rapidly  making  her  way  up  river,  and  about  the 
middle  of  the  afternoon  they  reached  the  Lower  Metaluc  Pond, 
and  went  into  camp.  Several  days  were  spent  here,  the  time 
being  passed  pleasantly  in  hunting  and  fishing  excursions  around 
the  neighborhood,  and  with  the  best  results,  as  the  party  did  not 
return  to  camp  a  single  time  without  either  game  or  fish.  One 
evening  Garfield  proposed  that  they  start  for  Parmachenee  the 
next  day,  and,  his  friend  and  the  guide  being  willing,  arrangements 
were  made  for  the  trip. 

The  following  morning,  after  an  early  breakfast,  they  started  up 
river.  "  Now,  boys,"  cried  the  guide,  as  the  boat  rippled  through 
the  water,  "  have  your  guns  in  readiness ;  for  we  are  liable  to  run 
across  a  deer,  caribou,  or  moose,  or  some  other  wild  animal  that 
we  may  be  compelled  to  shoot  in  self-defence." 

At  this  suggestive  remark  Garfield  laid  the  forefinger  of  his 
left  hand  thoughtfully  along  the  left  side  of  his  nose,  rubbing  that 
member  slightly,  while  Caughey,  turning  a  look  of  amazement 
upon  the  guide,  wiggled  his  starboard  ear.     It  is  quite  a  trick  to 


THE   ANDROSCOGGIN   LAKES.  157 

wiggle  one  of  your  ears  without  touching  it ;  if  you  don't  believe 
it,  practise  before  a  looking-glass. 

What  has  that  to  do  with  the  moose?  Oh,  nothing,  nothing. 
I  beg  pardon;  it  is  wholly  irrelevant. 

Placing  their  arms  in  readiness,  they  kept  a  sharp  lookout  for 
game,  and  about  noon,  as  they  were  turning  one  of  the  sharp 
bends  for  which  the  Magalloway  River  is  famous,  they  saw  a 
large  animal,  at  the  water's  edge,  on  the  left  bank  of  the  stream, 
about  two  miles  above  the  Upper  Metaluc  Pond.  It  seemed  to  bo 
feeding,  and  the  sight  almost  paralyzed  the  sportsmen. 

"  Spruce  tops  and  beaver  dams  !"  whispered  the  guide,  "if  that  ere 
aint  a  moose  I'll  never  sight  a  rifle  ag'in."  Catching  up  their  rifles, 
the  gentlemen  opened  fire  on  the  monarch  of  the  Maine  woods,  and 
after  standingfive  shots,  the  moose  turned  and  rushed  into  the  forest. 

A  few  rapid  strokes  of  the  paddle  sent  the  boat  to  the  river's 
bank,  and,  jumping  on  shore,  the  three  sportsmen  started  on  ,the 
trail,  the  guide  in  advance.  As  there  were  no  blood-marks  visi- 
ble the  doubt  and  excitement  of  the  party  were  intense. 

They  followed  the  tracks  a  number  of  rods,  and  had  about 
concluded  they  had  shot  wild,  when  Caughey,  who  now  had  the 
lead,  gave  a  regular  war-whoop,  and  leaped  into  the  air  some 
twenty  feet,  more  or  less,  and  as  became  down  exclaimed,  "  Here 
he  is,  dead  as  a  hammer !  "  A  shot  through  the  heart,  and 
another  through  the  lungs,  had  effectually  terminated  the  career 
of  this  particular  moose. 

The  party  then  proceeded  to  skin  and  cut  up  the  annnal.  Some 
of  the  meat  was  taken  up  to  the  camp  at  Parraachenee,  and  what 
the  gentlemen  did  not  need  themselves  during  their  stay  in  the 
wilderness  they  gave  to  hunters  and  trappers,  and  distributed 
among  the  people  of  the  Magalloway  settlements. 

The  head  of  the  moose,  which  was  adorned  by  a  fine  pair  of 
antlers,  was  taken  home  by  Mr.  Caughey,  and,  after  being  properly 
set  up,  was  placed  on  exhibition  at  a  Fair  held  in  Waltham,  by 
the  Waltham  Watch  Factory  Band,  and  now  ornaments  the 
dining-room  in  Mr.  Caughey's  house. 

The  estimated  wciglit  of  this  animal  was  from  one  thousand  to 
fourteen  hundred  pounds,  and  the  taxidermist  who  set  up  the 
head  said  it  was  one  of  the  largest  he  had  ever  seen.  We  publisli 
an  engraving  of  the  head,  also  an  illustration  of  the  shooting. 


CHAPTER    XII. 

E\)t  pijilltpis  antr  jTarmingtoit  Eoute^     JFrom 
Boston  to  (^rcenfaale,  ©possoc  Hake, 
anti  iEtangcleg  iJtllage* 

AKP]  the  cars  in  the  morning  at  the  Eastern  or  Bos- 
ton and  Maine  Railroad  depots,  and  on  arrival  at 
Porthind  change  to  the  Maine  Central  train.  If 
you  leave  Boston  on  the  Boston  and  Maine  Rail- 
road, you  will  leave  the  train  in  Portland  at  the 
Boston  and  Maine  Transfer  Station,  just  out  of 
tlie  city.  If  you  go  by  Eastern  Railroad,  you  will  change  cars  in 
the  Eastern  and  Maine  Central  depots  in  Portland.  You  will 
have  ample  time  for  dinner  both  ways.  Or  you  may  leave  Boston 
at  night  by  steamer,  reaching  Portland  early  next  morning,  and 
liave  half  a  day  in  the  city. 

The  Maine  Central  train  leaves  Portland  at  1.15  P.M.,  for 
Farmington,  ninety  miles  distant.  The  cars  stop  a  few  moments 
at  the  Transfer  Station,  and  those  who  came  from  Boston  over  the 
Boston  and  Maine  Railroad  join  the  other  passengers  on  the  train. 
Woodford's,  a  thickly  settled  suburb  of  Portland,  is  the  next 
station,  and  beyond  this  Westbrook,  where  connection  is  made 
with  tlie  Portland  and  Rocliester  Railroad.  You  are  now  fairly 
outside  the  city,  having  nearly  circled  it  on  the  back  side ;  the 
road  runs  through  a  comparatively  level  farming  country,  and  you 
l)ass  successively  the  stations  of  Falmouth,  Cumberland,  Walnut 
Hill,  Gray,  and  New  Gloucester.  From  this  point  the  line  of  the 
road  gradually  draws  near  the  Grand  Trunk  Railroad,  crossing  it 
at  Danville  Junction,  twenty-nine  miles  from  Portland.  From 
here  a  short  run  of  six  miles  brings  you  to  the  large  manufact- 
uring cities  of  Auburn  and  Lewiston.  Stopping  at  the  first- 
named  a  few  moments,  the  train  then  crosses  the  Androscoggin 

(l-'^9) 


160  FARRAR'S   ILLUSTRATED   GUIDE   TO 

River,  over  a  handsome  and  well-constructed  iron  bridge,  from 
which  you  obtain  very  satisfactory  views  of  the  river,  the  falls, 
and  tlie  numerous  mills,  whose  walls  send  forth  a  busy  clamor 
from  morn  till  night.  Here  you  change  cars,  and  have  some  fif- 
teen minutes  to  wait.  At  3.00  o'clock  the  Farmington  train  starts, 
and,  turning  north,  passes  the  stations  of  Greene,  Leeds  Junction, 
Curtis's  Corner,  Leeds  Centre,  where  there  is  a  large  pond.  It 
lies  off  to  the  right  of  the  railroad.  A  small  excursion  steamer 
runs  on  the  pond  in  summer,  vititing  Winn  Village,  on  the 
opposite  shore,  daily.  North  Leeds  and  Strickland's  Ferry  on 
the  Androscoggin  River  are  the  next  stopping-places.  The  dis- 
tant mountains  to  the  North  now  begin  to  grow  bolder,  and  look 
larger  with  every  mile  that  you  ride.  Between  North  Leeds  and 
Jay  Bridge,  for  the  most  of  the  way,  the  road  follows  the  Andros- 
coggin valley,  the  river  being  on  your  left,  and  in  this  vicinity 
(lie  landscape  is  charming.  With  the  sparkling  river  in  the  fore- 
ground, and  the  bare-topped  mountains  in  the  distance,  pretty 
pictures  are  formed  with  every  curve  of  the  road. 

East  Livermore  is  the  ne.xt  station  beyond  Strickland's  Ferry, 
then  come,  in  the  order  named,  Livermore  Falls,  Jay  Bridge, 
North  Jay,  Wilton,  East  Wilton,  and  West  Farmington.  While 
the  cars  are  crossing  the  trestle-work  over  the  river  and  intervale, 
you  can  see  for  miles  up  the  Sandy  River  Valley,  until  the  dis- 
tant mountains  shut  off  the  view.  The  bridge  and  trestle-work 
connecting  West  Farmington  and  the  "hill"  is  about  thirty  feet 
high,  and  curved  to  a  half  circle,  as  shown  in  our  illustration. 

You  arrive  at  the  Farmington  depot  at  5.15  P.M.,  and,  if  j'ou 
are  going  through  to  Phillips  the  same  night,  change  to  the  Sandy 
River  Railroad,  narrow  gauge,  whose  cars  are  in  waiting  in  the 
depot.  The  time  between  Farmington  and  Phillips  by  the  nar- 
row gauge  is  about  an  hour  and  twenty  minutes,  and  the  fare  is 
one  dollar. 

If  you  prefer  to  stop  over  night  in  Farmington,  and  go  up  on 
the  morning  train,  you  will  find  good  hotel  accommodations  at 
the  Hotel  Marble,  kept  by  J.  B.  Marble,  and  the  Stoddard 
HoDSE,  by  J.  W-  Withee.  Both  of  the  landlords  are  young  men, 
and  pleasant  and  attentive  to  their  guests.  Both  of  these  hotels 
run  a  free  coach  to  and  from  the  depot.     The  transient  rate  at 


THE  ANDROSCOGGIN  LAKES.  161 

both  of  these  hotels  is  §2.00  per  day,  and  they  each  make  a 
reduction  by  the  week. 

Tourists  who  wish  to  drive  from  Farmington  to  Phillips,  a  dis- 
tance of  eighteen  miles,  can  procure  excellent  teams  at  D. 
Clark  &  Sons'  livery-stable.  They  will  also  furnish  drivers  when 
desired.  Sportsmen  who  have  time  to  stop  over  in  Farmington, 
and  who  Avish  to  get  an  idea  of  how  split  bamboo  fishing-rods  are 
made,  should  call  at  the  manufactory  of  C.  E.  Wheeler,  on  Broad- 
way, who  will  show  them  some  fine  rods  of  his  own  workman- 
ship. 

Farmington  is  situated  mostly  on  high  land,  pleasantly  located 
overlooking  the  Sandy  River  Valley,  and  the  views  from  many 
parts  of  the  town  are  beautiful.  Its  streets  are  hard,  and  free 
from  superfluous  dust,  and  nearly  all  of  them  can  boast  of  a 
double  row  of  shade-trees,  thus  combining  beauty  and  comfort. 

The  fine  drives  in  the  vicinity  will  enable  strangers  to  spend  a 
few  days  to  advantage,  if  they  have  the  time  to  spare. 

A  fine  landscape  view  may  be  obtained  from  the  top  of  Court 
street,  looking  west.  Powder  House  Hill  also  furnishes  a  mag- 
nificent view  up  and  down  the  valley  for  miles.  From  a  hill 
near  the  Elm  House  in  West  Farmington  a  fine  view  of  the  inter- 
vale, the  railroad  bridge,  and  the  east  part  of  the  town,  may  be 
obtained. 

The  State  Normal  School  at  Farmington  consists  of  two  build- 
ings, one  of  brick,  the  other  of  wood,  located  near  the  centre  of 
the  town,  on  the  corner  of  Academy  and  Main  Streets.  There  was 
formerly  a  young  ladies'  seminary  here,  known  as  the  '.'  Willows," 
but  the  school  has  become  defunct,  and  the  buildings  are  now 
empty.  They  are  very  eligibly  situated,  on  an  eminence  near  the 
centre  of  the  village,  commanding  a  broad  south-west  view  of  the 
intervale  and  country  beyond.  The  willows  in  front  of  the  school 
by  that  name  originated  in  a  peculiar  manner.  Many  years  ago 
an  old  gentleman  by  the  name  of  Hiram  Belcher,  who  had  been 
to  Augusta,  cut  some  willow  switches  on  the  way  home  to  touch 
his  horse  with.  When  he  arrived  home  he  stuck  them  down  in  a 
row  near  his  house,  and  they  grew  to  be  the  trees  from  which  the 
"  Willow  School"  derived  its  name.  There  is  a  beautiful  maple 
grove  on  the  main  street  in  front  of  the  Forest  House,  where  a 


THE   ANDROSCOGGIN  LAKES.  163 

band-stand  is  erected,  and  here  the  "band  plays"  on  summer 
evenings. 

Clear  "Water  Pond. 

This  beautiful  sheet  of  water  is  situated  in  the  town  of 
Industry,  about  five  miles  from  the  Stoddai-d  House,  Farmington. 
The  pond  is  about  a  mile  and  a  half  long  by  half  a  mile  wide,  and 
is  bordered  by  a  heavy  growth  of  forest  on  all  sides,  which  forms 
splendid  grounds  for  picnic  parties.  The  western  shore  of  the 
pond  is  a  regular  semicircle,  while  the  eastern  shore  is  indented 
with  several  little  bays,  that  add  materially  to  the  beauty  of  its 
outline.  A  fine  view  of  the  pond  and  the  country  beyond  may 
be  obtained  from  the  road,  near  the  outlet.  But  the  best  view  of 
the  pond  is  obtained  from  a  high  hill  back  of  Mr.  Tibbetts's  house, 
two  miles  from  the  outlet. 

At  this  place  you  may  not  only  get  a  perfect  view  of  the  beau- 
tiful sheet  of  water  below  you,  but  in  the  far  distance,  forming 
a  fitting  background  for  so  romantic  a  picture,  are  some  of  the 
most  commanding  mountains  in  this  section  of  the  country;  and 
Saddleback  has  the  prominence  over  all  the  others.  The  drive 
to  this  pond  is  lovely,  and,  if  you  wish  to  try  your  luck  with  a  rod, 
we  assure  you  that  trout  have  been  caught  there  weighing  from 
twelve  to  fifteen  pounds ;  but  it  is  not  every  fellow  that  can  catch 
them.  Boats  for  rowing  or  sailing  are  kept  on  the  pond  to  let, 
and  if  you  do  not  wish  to  exert  yourself  with  their  management 
a  boatman  will  accompany  you. 

Rainbo'w  Cascade 

is  situated  on  a  small  stream  known  as  Hillman's  Brook,  about  five 
miles  from  the  Forest  House.  The  drive  to  the  cascade  is  very 
pleasant.  You  follow  the  regular  stage-road  to  Phillips,  as  far  as 
Backus'  Corner,  then,  turning  to  the  right,  take  the  New  Vineyard 
road,  and  drive  for  about  three  miles,  until  you  reach  Mr.  Hill- 
man's  house.  Fasten  your  horse  here,  then  walk  down  to  thfe  mill, 
which  is  in  sight  from  the  house,  pass  through  it,  and  climb  the 
hill  beyond  for  a  short  distance,  until  you  reach  the  woods,  enter- 
ing the  wood  from  the  left,  and  walking  a  few  rods  farther,  you 
reach  a  cool  and  shady  dell  inviting  you  to  repose.  In  the  centre 
of  this  beautiful  valley  flows  Hillman's  Brook,  and  on  this  the  cas- 


164  FARRAR'S  ILLUSTRATED   GUIDE   TO 

cade  is  situated.  This  cascade  is  one  of  the  finest  we  have  ever 
seen.  The  waters  flow  over  a  ledge  fifty  feet  high.  At  the  top  it  is 
about  three  feet  across,  and  at  the  bottom  about  thirty  feet  wide. 
Over  this  rock  the  water  pours,  forming  a  sheet  of  silvery  spray 
that  widens  every  foot  in  its  descent,  until  at  the  bottom  it  covers 
the  whole  face  of  the  ledge.  As  the  water  leaps  from  crag  to  crag, 
it  shimmers  in  the  sunlight,  which  struggles  in  through  the  forest 
trees  by  which  the  cascade  is  surrounded,  and  forms  quite  a  well- 
defined  rainbow.  This  is  to  be  seen  only  on  the  right  side  of  the 
cascade,  looking  up  the  stream.  Below  the  cascade,  for  several  feet, 
are  semicircular  walls  of  rock.  At  the  top  of  the  fall  is  a  small 
rock,  which  divides  the  stream ;  it  starts  in  two  rivulets,  and  after  a 
fall  of  a  few  feet  these  join,  and  the  whole  stream  spreads  out,  like 
a  silvery  sheen,  covering  the  rude  ledge  with  a  bridal  veil.  The 
seclusion  of  this  lovely  place,  the  rays  of  sunlight  which  filter  in, 
the  dark-green  foliage  of  the  birches  and  maples,  the  surrounding 
rocks,  the  deep  gorges  through  which  the  waters  flow  after  their 
gentle  descent  from  the  cliffs  above,  — all  combine  to  make  one  of 
the  most  romantic  places  ever  seen,  and  you  should  not  fail  to 
visit  it.  Reclining  upon  a  mossy  bank,  and  watching  this  beautiful 
cascade,  a  sense  of  rest  and  peace  steals  over  you,  as  if  you  were 
shut  out  from  the  toils  and  troubles  of  the  world,  and  you  feel 
loath  to  leave  this  charming  spot. 

Little  Blue,  just  outside  the  village  of  Farmington,  the  former 
home  of  Mr.  Jacob  Abbott,  where  the  "  RoUo  Books,  "  and  other 
books  for  young  people,  were  written,  was,  in  1844,  made  the  seat 
of  the  widely  known  "  Abbott  Family  School  for  Boys,"  by  his 
brother,  Rev.  Samuel  Phillips  Abbott,  under  whose  management 
it  continued  till  1849,  when  it  passed  into  the  hands  of  Mr.  A.  H 
Abbott,  the  present  proprietor. 

You  leave  Farmington  for  Phillips  via  Sandy  River  Railroad, 
This  is  a  narrow-gauge  road,  the  rails  being  only  two  feet  apart, 
and  everything  used  in  its  construction,  and  all  its  rolling-stock, 
are  correspondingly  small  and  light.  The  rolling-stock  and  part 
of  the  rails  were  formerly  the  property  of  the  Bedford  &  Bil- 
lerica  (Mass.)  Narrow-gauge  Railroad  that  went  into  bankruptcy 
through  inefficient  management.  When  the  property  was  sold, 
the  Sandy  River  Railroad  Company  bought  it  for  a  mere  song, 


THE   ANDKOSCOGGIN   LAKES.  165 

and  this  made  a  great  difference  in  the  cost  of  construction  of 
their  road. 

From  the  Main  Central  depot  the  road  runs  north-west,  keep- 
ing well  up  on  the  hill-side,  to  avoid  the  heavy  freshets  that  the 
Sandy  River  occasionally  indulges  in.  A  mile  from  the  station  it 
crosses  the  old  Phillips  stage-road,  rising,  by  frequent  and  short 
grades,  sixty  feet  to  the  summit,  two  miles  from  the  village,  when 
a  like  succession  of  grades  brings  it  back  to  the  first  level. 

Fairbanks  Mills  is  the  first  station  of  any  importance,  and  is 
two  miles  and  a  half  from  Farmington  Village,  in  the  northern 
part  of  the  town.  This  part  of  the  road  furnishes  some  fine 
mountain  views.  A  mile  or  so  beyond  the  Mills  Village  the  road 
strikes  the  river,  and  fellows  it  up,  clinging  to  the  side  of  the 
higher  banks,  and,  crossing  a  large  number  of  gullies,  but  with  no 
heavy  grades,  it  reaches  South  Strong.  Leaving  this  station,  the' 
road  commences  an  up  grade  to  reach  the  high  bluffs  back  from 
the  river,  the  lower  land  being  always  in  danger  from  high  water. 
Here  are  the  heaviest  grades  on  the  line,  for  half  a  mile  reaching 
one  hundred  and  five  feet  to  the  mile.  Reaching  this  summit 
there  is  a  half  mile  of  nearly  level  road,  and  then  it  descends  to 
Strong  Village.  This  is  the  most  important  station  between  Farm- 
ington and  Phillips,  and  furnishes  a  fair  share  of  the  business 
of  the  road.  Strong  Village  contains  quite  a  number  of  nice 
dwelling-houses,  a  hotel,  excelsior  manufactory,  and  other 
industries.  It  is  one  of  the  most  thriving  towns  in  Franklin 
County. 

Leaving  Strong  Village  the  road  crosses  the  Porter  Stream, 
over  a  bridge  consisting  of  two  lattice  spans,  of  sixty  feet  each, 
approached  by  a  trestle,  making  the  whole  bridge  about  eight 
hundred  feet.  The  trestle-work  is  some  fifty  or  sixty  feet  high. 
Beyond  the  bridge  the  road  foUovrs  the  curves  of  the  hills,  keep- 
ing high  enough  up  to  avoid  danger  from  freshets,  and,  when 
within  three-quarters  of  a  mile  of  Phillips  Village,  crosses  the 
Sandy  River,  over  a  lattice  bridge  of  one  hundred  and  fifty  feet 
span,  there  being  trestles  at  each  end,  making  the  entire  length 
two  hundred  and  forty  feet.  The  road  then  follows  the  west  bank 
of  the  river  to  the  station,  which  is  conveniently  located  in  the 
centre  of  the  village,  but  a  short  distance  from  the  main  street, 
and  near  the  Elmwood  House.     There  are  two  passenger  trains 


THE   ANDROSCOGGIN   LAKES.  167 

a  day  over  the  road,  leaving  Farmington  at  9.15  A.M.,  and  5.15 
P.M.     Eeturning,  leave  Phillips  at  7.15  A.M.,  and  1.30  P.M. 

Mr.  C.  E.  Mansfield,  formerly  superintendent  of  the  Sandy 
River  Railroad  had  charge  of  the  construction  of  the  road,  and 
also  designed  the  cars  and  locomotives  that  run  on  it.  It  is 
through  his  energetic  and  well-directed  efforts  that  the  road  was 
successfully  completed,  and  brought  into  good  running  shape. 
Mr.  Nathaniel  B.  Beal  is  the  present  Superintendent  of  the  road, 
and  has  proved  an  efficient  manager.  The  late  Abner  Toothaker 
was  the  president,  and  one  of  the  heaviest  stockholders,  and  did 
much  towards  ensuring  the  success  of  the  enterprise.  This 
narrow-gauge  railroad  has  proved  a  complete  success,  and  Mr. 
Mansfield  has  since  built  another  between  Hiram  on  the  Portland 
and  Ogdensburg  Railroad,  and  Bridgton,  the  distance  being  about 
twenty  miles.  These  narrow-gauge  roads  furnish  abundant  means 
of  transportation  for  thinly  settled  localities,  and  there  is  no  doubt 
many  more  will  be  built  in  different  parts  of  the  State. 

Phillips  is  a  well-to-do  farming  town,  situated  in  the  midst  of 
some  fine  scenery.  It  has  post,  telegraph,  and  express  offices, 
about  a  dozen  stores,  two  or  three  churches,  two  hotels,  and 
several  private  boarding-houses.  Of  the  public  houses,  the  Elm- 
■woou  is  the  hotel,  par  excellence.  This  house,  well  and  favorably 
known  to  the  public,  for  many  years  under  the  management  of 
Mr.  E.  D.  Prescott,  was  purchased,  during  the  spring  of  1880,  by 
Theodore  Page,  Esq.,  of  Boston,  who  is  now  the  sole  proprietor 
and  manager.  Mr.  Page  has  made  many  improvements  in  the 
house,  added  to  the  number  of  sleeping-rooms,  rebuilt  the  dining- 
room  and  office,  and  considerably  enlarged  the  building.  The 
house  has  also  been  newly  furnished  and  carpeted,  and  is  a  first- 
class  hotel  in  every  respect.  Particular  attention  will  be  given 
to  the  cuisine,  and  the  bill  of  fare  will  be  above  reproach.  Mr. 
Page  has  also  built  a  large  livery-stable  in  connection  with  the 
hotel ;  and  parties  stopping  at  the  Elmwood  House  can  always 
be  sure  of  getting  a  first-rate  team.  The  transient  rates  at  the 
Elmwood  will  be  $3.00  per  day,  with  a  reduction  by  the  week; 
lodging  and  breakfast,  $1.50.  The  hotel  has  a  pretty  situation 
on  the  main  street  of  the  village,  and  near  to  the  business  part  of 
the  town.  The  advent  of  the  railroad,  and  the  probable  increase 
of  sumnrer  travel,  made  the  establishment  of  a  firsi-class  hotel  in 


168  FARRAR'S   ILLUSTRATED   GUIDE. 

Phillips  espcciably  desirable,  and  the  enterprise  in  Mr.  Page's 
hands  cannot  but  be  a  success.  The  stage  between  Phillips  and 
Oquossoc  Lake  calls  daily  at  the  house  to  take  or  leave  passengers. 

The  Barden  House,  Samuel  Farmer,  proprietor,  is  well  fur- 
nished, and  run  in  good  shape,  and  several  of  the  sleeping-rooms 
liiive  lately  been  enlarged.  The  hotel  is  eligibly  located  on  the 
main  street  of  the  village,  near  churches,  stores,  post,  telegraph, 
and  express  offices,  and  from  the  second-story  piazza  you  may 
obtain  a  fine  view  up  and  down  the  principal  street,  and  get  a 
glimpse  of  the  falls  near  the  bridge.  Away  to  the  north-west 
the  Saddleback  Mountains  lift  their  heads  to  the  clouds,  forming 
a  prominent  landmark. 

The  transient  rates  at  the  Barden  are  $2.00  per  day,  and  a 
lower  rate  by  the  week.  There  is  a  good  livery-stable  connected 
with  the  house. 

Persons  having  leisure  to  spend  a  few  days  or  weeks  in  Phii/- 
Lii'S  will  find  many  places  of  interest  to  attract  their  attention. 

The  Mammoth  Rock  is  one  of  the  curiosities  of  Phillips.  It  is 
situated  on  Daggett's  Farm,  about  three  and  a  half  miles  from  the 
Barden  House.  The  drive  there  is  very  pleasant,  and  from  the 
top  of  the  hill,  where  you  climb  to  see  the  rock,  you  will  get 
some  charming  views  of  mountain  and  valley.  This  rock  stands 
in  a  pasture,  about  one-eighth  of  a  mile  from  the  road,  on  the  side 
of  a  hill.  You  can  drive  a  team  close  up  to  the  rock.  This  immense 
boulder  has  a  split  entirely  through  it,  some  thirty  feet  wide  at  the 
top  and  two  feet  wide  at  the  bottom.  The  largest  half,  which  is 
the  lower  side,  has  also  been  split,  and  there  is  a  gap  in  it,  about 
fifteen  feet  wide  at  the  top  and  a  foot  at  the  bottom.  A  rude  ladder, 
planted  against  the  side,  enables  one  to  reach  the  top.  One  sum- 
mer a  fellow,  who  went  on  top  of  the  rock,  undertook  to  jump 
across  the  fifteen-foot  space.  He  just  managed  to  grasp  the  edge 
of  the  rock  with  his  hands,  and,  after  a  severe  struggle,  he  reached 
the  top.  If  his  hold  had  given  way  he  would  have  been  carried 
home  in  a  coffin.  Liquor  was  the  cause  of  this  foolish  and  dan- 
gerous act.  It  is  variously  estimated  that  the  rock  is  from  thirty- 
five  to  fifty  feet  high,  one  hundred  feet  through,  and  two  to  three 
hundred  feet  around  the  base.  How  it  came  there  is  a  mystery ; 
but  every  person  has  his  own  theory  in  the  matter,  and  some  are 
quite  amusing.     We  jiublish  a  stereoscopic  view  of  this\ock. 


170  FABRAR'S  ILLUSTRATED  GUIDE  TO 

Sandy  River  Falls,  in  the  town  of  Madrid,  are  well  worth  a 
visit.  They  are  about  eight  miles  from  the  Elmwood  House,  and, 
as  there  is  good  fishing  on  the  stream  above  and  below  the  falls,  it 
will  pay  you  to  take  a  fishing-rod  when  you  go  to  visit  them.  On 
your  way  to  and  from  the  falls  you  will  get  some  splendid  views 
of  the  Mount  Abram  and  Saddleback  ranges.  This  is  one  of  the 
most  pleasant  rides  in  the  vicinity  of  Phillips,  and  the  excursion 
will  take  a  day.  There  are  two  streams,  only  a  few  rods  apart,  and 
each  has  a  fine  fall.  An  amusing  incident  in  connection  with  this 
stream  is  told  of  a  gentleman  from  Providence.  He  was  fishing 
the  Sandy  River  down  one  day,  expecting  to  reach  Madrid  in 
time  to  stop  over  night ;  but  darkness  overtook  him  while  he 
was  fishing  from  a  large  rock  in  the  middle  of  the  stream,  and 
at  this  place  he  was  surrounded  by  woods.  Being  afraid  of  losing 
his  way,  or  being  attacked  by  wild  beasts  in  the  woods,  he  spent 
the  night  on  the  rock,  a  prey  to  mosquitoes,  black  flies,  and  a  dis- 
ordered mind,  his  imagination  picturing  a  great  many  horrors  that 
the  morning  light  dispelled.  He  scarcely  slept  a  wink  all  night, 
but  when  he  reached  the  village  the  next  day  he  had  a  good 
hearty  laugh  over  his  nocturnal  adventure. 

We  publish  a  stereoscopic  view  of  the  falls  on  each  stream. 

A  fine  excursion,  occupying  a  day,  may  be  made  from  the 
hotels  to  Mount  Blue.  Taking  a  team  you  ride  to  within  a 
mile  of  the  top  of  the  mountain,  and  then  walk  up  by  a  good  path 
through  the  woods.  The  view  from  this  mountain  is  very  exten- 
sive, embracing  the  whole  country  from  Phillips  to  the  ocean,  and 
a  trip  to  its  summit  will  well  repay  the  tourist  for  the  time  and 
expense  of  making  it.  There  is  a  hotel  at  the  base  of  the  moun- 
tain where  you  can  get  dinner,  and  where  you  can  have  your 
team  provided  for  also.  We  publish  several  stereoscopic  views  of 
Mount  Blue. 

There  is  a  sulphur  spring  a  short  distance  from  the  hotels,  whose 
waters  are  taken  by  many  people  for  a  cure  for  rheumatism.  The 
water  contains  both  lime  and  sulphur,  has  many  medicinal  prop- 
erties, and  is  extremely  disagreeable  to  the  taste. 

The  brook-trouting  in  the  vicinity  of  Phillips  is  unsurpassed, 
and  all  necessary  information  in  regard  to  the  streams  and  ponds 
may  be  obtained  from  the  proprietors  of  the  hotels. 

In  the  morning  the  comfortable  stages  owned  by  Burke  and 


THE   ANDROSCOGGIN   LAKES.  171 


Rogers  leave  Phillips  at  half-past  seven  for  Geeenvale,  eigh- 
teen miles  distant.  Fare,  $1.50.  Parties  who  wish  to  go  in  a  pri- 
vate team  can  procure  one  from  the  hotels  at  a  reasonable  price. 

The  road  follows  the  Sandy  River  Valley  the  most  of  the 
way,  and  six  miles  from  Phillips  we  pass  through  the  little 
village  of  Madrid,  crossing  the  river  at  this  point.  A  few  miles 
beyond,  the  road  crosses  a  high  range  of  land  known  as  Beech 
Hill,  which  is  one  of  the  spurs  of  Mount  Saddleback,  and  is 
about  twelve  hundred  feet  above  Phillips.  From  the  top  of  this 
hill  a  magnificent  view  of  the  surrounding  country  may  be  obtained, 
including  the  Sandy  River  Valley  and  Ponds,  and  numerous 
mountain  peaks  and  ranges. 

Descending  the  hill  towards  Greenvale,  a  short  ride  brings 
you  to  the  Sandy  River  Ponds,  all  lying  near  each  other,  on 
the  right  side  of  the  road.  Passing  these  you  come  to  Long 
Pond,  the  source  of  the  Androscoggin.  It  is  only  a  stone's 
throw  between  Long  Pond  and  Sandy  liivER  Ponds,  and  thus 
the  Androscoggin  and  Kennebec  Rivers  come  within  an  ace  of 
being  connected.  In  all  of  these  ponds  and  streams  along  tlie 
road  the  trout-fishing  in  the  summer  is  excellent,  and  one  can 
stop^  if  going  by  private  conveyance,  and  catch  a  string  of  fish 
to  take  along  with  hira. 

Long  Pond,  the  source  of  the  Androscoggin,  is  a  very  pretty 
sheet  of  water,  situated  in  the  middle  of  the  woods,  and  furnishes 
excellent  trout-fishing.  An  arm  of  it  extends  to  within  a  few  feet 
of  the  stage-road,  and  it  is  only  about  two  miles  from  Greenvale. 
If  one  wishes  to  make  a  business  of  fishing  there,  he  will  be 
obliged  totake  a  boat  with  him,  as  there  are  none  on  the  pond. 
We  publish  a  fine  stereoscopic  view  of  this  pond. 

Continuing  on,  we  reach  Greenvale,  at  the  head  of  Oqdossoc 
Lake,  after  a  ride  of  four  hours,  and  parties  who  wish  to  take  the 
steamer  here  are  left  at  the  hotel,  and  then  the  stage  goes  on  to 
Rangeley  Village,  three  miles  farther,  making  its  final  stop  at  tlie 
Rangeley  Lake  House. 


CHAPTER    XIII. 


Elje  ^orijam,  Berlin  jFalls,  antJ  (iHrrol  ©am 
l^ontt  to  tlje  ^ntiroscoggin 
Hafees,    . 


ROM  Boston  to  Portland  by  either  rail  or  steamer, 
and  continue  by  Grand  Trunk  Railway  to  either 
Gorham,  or  Berlin  Falls,  there  being  only  six  miles' 
distance  between  the  two  places.  The  morning  train 
from  Portland  reaches  Gorham  about  12.30  P.M. ;  Berlin  Falls, 
15  minutes  later.  The  afternoon  train  arrives  at  Gorham  about 
o.20f.'.M. ;  Berlin  Falls,  15  minutes  later. 

There  are  good  hotels  "at  both  places,  the  Alpink  being  the 
best  at  Gorham,  and  the  Cascade  House  the  best  at  Berlin  Falls. 
Teams  may  be  procured  at  either  hotel  to  carry  you  through  to 
Errol  Dam,  if  you  proceed  the  same  evening.  But  take  our 
advice,  and  stop  over  night  at  the  town  where  you  leave  the  cars, 
and  then  take  your  stage  ride  the  next  morning,  when  you  can 
see  something. 

There  is  no  regular  stage  line  from  Gorham  to  Errol  Dam  at 
present,  but  there  is  talk  of  one  being  established. 

There  is  a  stage  line  between  Berlin  Falls  and  Milan  Corner, 
and  one  from  Milan  Corner  to  Errol  Dam,  forming  a  through 
route  between  the  Grand  Trunk  Railway  and  the  steamers  of  the 
Richardson-Rangeley  Lakes  Transportation  Company. 

The  stage  between  Berlin  and  Milan  leaves  the  Grand  Trunk 
Depot  on  arrival  of  afternoon  train  from  Portland,  arriving  at 
Milan  Corner,  distance  eight  miles,  at  a  little  after  seven,  and 
the  traveller  stops  here  over  night.  The  fare  between  Berlin 
and  Milan  is  60  cents. 

om 


174  FARRAR'S  ILLUSTRATED  GUIDE. 

The  next  morning  you  leave  Milan  Comer  at  7.00  A.M.,  b; 
stage  for  Errol  Dam,  distance,  22  miles,  fare  $1.25,  arriving  at 
Errol  at  noon.  Procure  dinner,  and  in  the  afternoon  take  the 
steamer  for  Sunday  Cove,  or  Lakeside,  Cambridge,  at  the  foot 
of  Umbagog  Lake,  or,  if  you  are  going  up  Magalloway,  wait  until 
the  next  morning. 

The  carriage-drive  between  Gorham  and  Berlin  Falls  is  un- 
usually pleasant,  and  thoroughly  enjoyable  to  any  person  who  is 
at  all  fond  of  natural  scenery. 

The  road  from  Gorham  and  Berlin  Falls  to  Errol  Dam  is  an 
excellent  one,  and  follows  the  valley  of  the  Androscoggin  all 
the  way,  and  you  are  in  sight  of  the  river  nearly  all  the  time. 

The  road  passes  through  a  part  of  the  towns  of  Berlin,  Milan, 
Dummer,  and  Errol,  and  about  fourteen  miles  of  it  lie  through 
the  forest,  making  it  cool  and  comfortable  on  a  hot  summer 
day,  the  trees  throwing  an  appreciative  shade. 

This  ride,  if  taken  easy,  is  a  very  enjoyable  one,  and  the  best 
w^y  to  do  it  is  to  hire  a  private  team  (it  will  not  cost  much 
more  than  stage  fare),  take  your  dinner  at  Milan  Corner,  and 
reach  Errol  in  time  for  supper.  The  next  day  you  can  take  the 
steamer  for  any  part  of  the  lake  region.  ft 

There  are  no  Round  Trip  Tickets  issued  over  this  route  at 
present,  but  they  will  undoubtedly  be  put  on  within  a  year  or 
two. 


CHAPTER   XIV. 

Efje  (great  itortfjern  Eoute* 

From  New  York  and  Boston  to  the  Androscoggin  Lakes, 

Dixville  Notch,  and  Connecticut  Lake,  via  Boston 

Concord,  and  Montreal  Railroad. 

HIS  ROUTE  to  DixviLLE  Notch 
and  the  Andkoscoggin  Lakes 
takes  tourists  througli  the  heart  of 
New  England,  and  introduces 
them  to  some  of  the  finest  scen- 
?'.  ery  in  New  Hampshire.  SevlTal 
"^  different  forms  of  Round  Trip 
Tickets  are  sold  over  this  popu- 
lar route,  both  from  Boston  and 
New  York,  and  are  fully  de- 
scribed in  Chapter  XXIX. 

Between  New  York  and  Concord 
there  are  five  routes,  all  occupying 
about  the  same  time. 
I.  The  steamers  "  Massachu- 
setts "  and  "  Rhode  Island,"  of  the  Providence  Line,  leave  Pier 
29,  North  River,  at  5.00  P.M.,  arriving  in  Providence  the  follow- 
ing morning  at  6.00  o'clock,  connecting  with  the  White  Mountain 
Express  over  the  Providence  and  Worcester  Railroad  via  Worces- 
ter, Nashua,  and  Manchester,  arriving  at  Concord  in  time  to 
connect  with  the  Boston,  Concord,  and  Montreal  Railroad.  Par- 
lor cars  accompany  this  train.  Breakfast  at  Providence  or 
AVorcester. 

II.     The  steamers  "Stonington"  and  "  Narragansett "  of  the 
Stonington  Line  leave  Pier  33,  North  River,  at  5.00  P.M.,  arriv- 
ing at  Stonington  at  2.00  A.M.,  connecting  with  train  arriving  at 
Providence  at  6.00  o'clock,  making  connections  with  train  over 
(175) 


176  FARRAR'S  ILLUSTRATED  GUIDE  TO 

Providence  and  Worcester  Railroad  as  above.  Breakfast  at 
Providence  or  Worcester.  Or  passengers  may  go  direct  from 
Providence  to  Boston,  reaching  the  latter  city  at  6.00  A.M.,  by 
Stonington  Line,  and  7.00  A.M.,  by  Providence  Line,  in  ample 
season  to  connect  with  the  through  trains  over  the  Boston  and 
Maine  and  the  Boston  and  Lowell  Railroads.  Breakfast  in  Bos- 
ton. 

III.  The  "(teamers,  "  Bristol,"  "  Providence,"  and  "  Pilgrim" 
of  the  Fall  River  Line,  leave  Pier  28,  North  River,  at  5.00  P.M., 
arriving  at  Fall  River  at  4.00  A.M.,  connecting  with  the  tra.in  on 
the  Old  Colony  Railroad,  reaching  Boston  at  7.00  o'clock,  in  time 
to  connect  with  Northern  trains  over  the  Boston  and  Maine  and 
Boston  and  Lowell  Railroads.     Breakfast  in  Boston. 

Passengers  who  wish  to  proceed  to  the  White  Mountains  direct, 
and  without  change  of  cars,  will  take. an  express  train  at  Fall 
River  (elegant  parlor  cars  attached"),  and  proceed  over  the  North- 
ern Division  of  the  Old  Colony  Railroad,  via  Taunton,  Mansfield, 
Fropiingham,  Lowell,  Nashua,  Marchester,  and  Concord;  thence 
northward  by  early  White  Mountains  and  Montreal  express. 

IV.  The  steamers  "  City  of  Boston,"  "  City  of  Lawrence," 
•'  City  of  New  York,"  and  "  City  of  Worcester"  leave  Pier  40, 
North  River,  at  6.00  P.M.,  arriving  at  New  London  in  season  to 
connect  with  the  4.00  A.M.  train  on  tl^*  New  York  and  New  Eng- 
land Railroad,  arriving  in  Boston  (breakfast)  in  season  to  connect 
with  through  trains  over  the  Boston  and  Maine  and  Boston  and 
Lowell  Railroads.  Or  you  may  take  the  4.00  A.M.  train  at  New 
London  and  go  directly  to  Concord,  t;m  Worcester  (breakfast), 
Ayer  Junction,  Nashua,  and  Manchester,  arriving  at  Concord  in 
time  to  connect  with  the  White  Mountain  Express  over  the  Bos- 
ton, Concord,  and  Montreal  Railroad.  A  parlor  car  accompanies 
the  4.00  A.M.  train  from  New  London  via  Worcester. 

V.  The  Shore  Line  Express  between  New  York  and  Boston 
leaves  New  York  from  the  Grand  Central  Depot,  42d  street, 
daily,  at  10.00  P.  M.,  arriving  in  Boston  at  6.30  A.M.,  in  time  for 
breakfast  and  connection  with  Northern  trains  over  Boston  and 
Maine,  and  Boston  and  Lowell  Railroads.  Sleeping  cars  accom- 
pany this  train.  Passengers  who  wish  can  also  leave  this  train  at 
Providence,  and  take  cars  there  for  Concord,  as  mentioned 
above. 


THE  ANDROSCOGGIN  LAKES.  177 

Between  Boston  and  Concord  you  have  choice  of  two  routes  :  — 

I.  Leave  Boston  from  the  Boston  and  Maine  Depot  in  Hay- 
market  square,  at  7.30  A.M.,  by  Boston  and  Maine  Railroad  to 
Lawrence,  Manchester  and  Lawrence  Railroad  to  Manchester, 
and  Concord  Railroad  to  Concord,  arriving  at  Concord  in  time  to 
connect  with  the  up-train  on  the  Boston,  Concord,  and  Montreal 
Railroad.     A  through  car  accompanies  this  train  from  Boston. 

II.  Leave  Boston  from  the  Boston  and  Lowell  Depot,  Causeway 
street,  at  8.00  A.M.,  by  Boston  and  Lowell  Railroad  to  Lowell, 
Nashua  and  Lowell  Railroad  to  Nashua,  and  Concord  Railroad  to 
Concord ;  thence  north  over  the  Boston,  Concord,  and  Montreal 
Railroad.     Parlor  cars  accompany  this  train. 

A  second  train  leaves  the  Boston  and  Maine  Depot  at  12.30 
P.M  ,  and  Boston  and  Lowell  Depot,  at  12.00  noon,  uniting  at 
Concord,  and  running  as  far  as  Plymouth,  where  it  arrives  at 
5.00  P.M.  Passengers  stop  here  over  night,  and  continue  their 
journey  the  next  day.  Parlor  cars  accompany  the  train  on  the 
Boston  and  Lowell  Railroad. 

A  third  train  leaves  the  Bcf^ton  and  Maine  Depot  at  5.00  P.M., 
and  the  Boston  and  Lowell  Depot,  at  5.35  P.  M.,  uniting  at  Con- 
cord, and  running  to  Plymouth,  reaching  the  latter  place  at  10.57 
P.M.  Passengers  stop  here  over  hight,  and  continue  their  jour- 
ney the  next  morning. 

The  7.35  A.M.  up-tii,fein  from  Plymouth  reaches  Groveton 
Junction  at  12.25  P.M. ;  change  cars  here,  and  take  train  on  the 
Grand  Trunk  Railroad,  arriving  at  North  Stratford  at  1.20  P.M. 
Dine  at  Willard  House,  opposite  the  depot,  thence  to  Colebrook 
by  stage,  arriving  at  the  Parsons  House  at  4.00  P.M.  Stop  over 
night,  and  resume  your  journey  the  next  morning. 

One  of  the  most  pleasant  features  of  the  Great  Nortliern  Route 
is  the  large  number  of  streams  and  bodies  of  water  along  its  way, 
among  which  arc  the  Charles  and  Mystic  Rivers  ;  the  Merrimac, 
in  close  continuity  for  many  miles,  and  in  whose  praise  our 
Quaker  poet,  Whittier,  has  sung  some  of  his  sweetest  songs ; 
the  Suncook  and  Winnepesaukee  Rivers ;  Lake  Winnesquam, 
Little  Bay,  Lake  Winnepesaukee,  Waukawan  Lake,  Long  Pond, 
Pemigewasset  and  Baker's  Rivers ;  the  beautiful  Connecticut, 
the  boundary  line  between  New  Hampshire's  granite   lulls  and 


178  FARRAR'S  ILLUSTRATED  GUIDE  TO 

the  green  peaks  of  Vermont;  Wells  and  Ammonoosuc  Rivers, 
and  several  other  smaller  streams  and  ponds. 

At  Lawrence  or  Lowell  we  strike  the  Merrimac,  following  it 
beyond  Manchester  and  Concord,  crossing  it  several  times.  Its 
waters  are  broken  by  turbulent  rapids  and  picturesque  falls,  ma- 
terially adding  to  its  beauty  as  well  as  furnishing  a  large  amount 
of  improved  water-power.  Among  the  heaviest  and  most  striking 
of  the  falls  are  those  of  Lawrence,  Lowell,  Amoskeag,  and 
Hooksett. 

Lowell,  Lawrence,  Nashua,  Manchester,  and  Hooksett,  are  all 
smart  manufacturing  places,  prettily  located,  and  having  good 
railroad  communication  with  all  parts  of  New  England. 

Concord,  the  southern  terminus  of  the  Boston,  Concord,  and 
Montreal  Railroad,  is  the  capital  city  of  New  Hampshire, 
and  contains  about  13,000  inhabitants.  It  is  well  laid  out,  and 
contains  several  fine  public  buildings,  and  a  number  of  hotels,  of 
which  the  Eagle  and  the  Phoenix  are  the  best.  It  has  large  gran- 
ite quarries,  furnishing  an  important  industry,  and  makes  a  spe- 
cialty of  carriage  manufacturing,  /"he  popular  stages  known  as 
Concord  coaches  first  saw  the  light  of  day  in  this  enterprising 
city.  Concord  is  also  quite  an  important  railroad  centre,  some 
half-dozen  railroads  coming  together  at  this  point. 

The  White  Mountain  Express,  over  the  Boston,  Concord,  and 
Montreal  Railroad,  is  made  up  of  its  ^ivn  cars  and  those  of  the 
different  roads  from  Boston,  Providence,  Fall  River,  New  Lon- 
don, and  Worcester,  and  leaves  Concord  at  10.35  A.M.  With  this 
we  start. 

A  few  miles  above  Concord  the  road  bears  away  toward  Lake 
Winnepesaukee.  The  first  place  of  any  importance  reached  is 
Tilton,  the  seat  of  the  Methodist  Seminary.  The  town  possesses 
an  excellent  water-power,  and  some  manufacturing  is  done  here. 
The  river  which  runs  through  the  place  is  the  outlet  of  Winnepe- 
saukee Lake.  Tilton  and  other  neighboring  towns  are  fast  ac- 
quiring a  notoriety  as  pleasant  summer  resorts. 

Soon  after  leaving  Tilton,  we  pass  Lake  Winnesquam,  the  road 
skirting  its  eastern  shore.  It  is  a  lovely  sheet  of  water  and  is 
seen  to  the  left  from  the  cars.  The  next  station  is  East  Tilton, 
and,  passing  tliis,  we  reach  Laconia,  a  lively  and  enterprising  town 
twenty-seven  miles  from  Concord.     The  Belknap  Mills,  and  the 


THE  ANDROSCOGGIN  LAKES.  179 

extensive  works  of  the  Ranlet  Car  Company,  are  located  here. 
There  is  a  stage  line  between  this  place  and  Alton  Bay. 

Lake  Village,  an  important  manufacturing  place,  is  the  next 
station  reached.  The  construction  and  repair  shops  of  the  Bos- 
ton, Concord,  and  Montreal  Railroad,  as  well  as  many  other 
manufactories  and  mills,  form  a  part  of  the  business  of  this  little 
village,  and  give  employment  to  a  large  number  of  people.  The 
principal  hotel,  the  Mount  Belknap  House,  is  situated  near  the 
railroad  station.  Mount  Belknap,  from  whose  barren  summit  a 
fine  landscape  view  may  be  had,  is  easily  accessible  over  a  good 
road,  and  is  but  a  few  miles  from  the  village. 

Erom  Lake  Village  the  railroad  follows  the  western  shore  of 
Long  Bay,  seen  to  the  right,  a  part  of  Lake  Winnepesaukee.  At 
Weirs  we  stop  to  enable  passengers  to  take  the  steamer  "  Lady  of 
the  Lake,"  which  runs  from  this  point  to  Centre  Harbor  and  Wolf- 
boro'.  At  this  station  also  are  the  camp-grounds  of  the  New 
England  Methodists,  charmingly  laid  out,  and  containing  many 
handsome  cottages,  scattered  throughout  the  beautiful  grove  on 
the  border  of  the  lake.  T:  e  Lakeside  House  offers  a  home  to 
those  who  wish  to  spend  a  few  days  in  this  vicinity,  presenting 
many  attractions  to  tourists. 

From  Weirs'  Landing  the  road  follows  the  shore  of  the  lake, 
introducing  many  fine  pictures,  pleasant  to  the  eyes  of  the  trav- 
eler. The  next  stop  is  at  Meredith,  a  small  manufacturing  town, 
and  a  favorite  resort  in  summer.  Passing  this  station  we  bid 
adieu  to  Winnepesaukee,  and  soon  reach  Waukawan  Lake,  follow- 
ing the  south  shore  for  four  miles.  Long  Pond,  on  the  right,  is 
the  next  body  of  wa.ter  passed,  and  the  cars  glide  swiftly  around 
the  base  of  Ragged  Mountain,  whose  rocky  sides  have  been  lev- 
eled by  blasting  to  allow  the  passage  of  trains.  The  mountain 
is  on  the  left  of  the  road.  Near  here  the  Pemigewasset  and 
Squam  Rivers  unite,  furnishing  many  artistic  bits  of  landscape. 
The  latter  river  rises  in  Squam  Lake,  three  miles  above.  The 
lake  furnishes  good  fishing,and  there  are  numerous  trout  brooks 
in  its  vicinity.  The  Squam  Lake  House  offers  entertainment  to 
those  wishing  to  visit  this  pretty  little  sheet  of  water. 

Ashland,  the  next  station  on  the  railroad,  was  formerly  known 
as  Holderness.     It  has  some  importance  as  a  manufacturing  town. 


180  FARRAR'S  ILLUSTRATED   GUIDE  TO 

Above  Ashland  we  enter  the  lovely  valley  of  the  Pemigew asset, 
following  it  to  Plymouth. 

The  approach  to  Plymouth  is  striking  and  beautiful.  The 
course  of  the  road  is  near  the  banks  of  the  river,  which  flows, 
with  many  a  crook  and  turn,  through  green  meadows,  shaded  in 
many  places  by  graceful  and  wide-spread  elms.  On  either  side 
high-wooded  hills  sweep  by  a  gentle  grade  down  to  the  valley 
below;  thirty  miles  away  the  Franconia  Mountains  tower  towards 
the  sky,  effectually  closing  the  view  in  that  direction.  As  the 
train  rapidly  enters  the  town,  the  Pemigewasset  House  rises 
before  you,  a  large  and  well-constructed  hotel,  pleasantly  situated 
on  the  banks  of  the  Pemigewasset,  near  its  confluence  with 
Baker's  River,  and  in  close  proximity  to  the  business  part  of  the 
town.  The  railroad  station  is  in  the  hotel  building,  and  you  are 
consequently  landed  at  the  very  door  of  this  hospitable  home  for 
the  traveler.  A  short  flight  of  broad  stairs  leads  to  the  office 
and  dining-room  above,  and  here  you  are  furnished  with  a  good 
dinner,  and  allowed  ample  time  to  eat  it  in  comfort. 

Plymouth  is  a  popular  summer  roport,  and  annually  entertains 
thousands  of  visitors,  many  of  whom  find  a  home  during  the  sea- 
son at  the  Pemigewasset  House,  one  of  the  best-conducted  hotels 
in  New  England.  Mr.  P.  E.  Wheeler,  the  well-known  manager, 
has  been  connected  with  the  house  for  a  number  of  years.  Dur- 
ing the  summer  season  music  is  furnished  by  a  quadrille  band. 

Among  the  pleasant  drives  and  places  of  interest  in  the  vicinity 
of  Plymouth  are  Smith's  Bridge,  six  miles ;  Livermore  Falls, 
two  miles ;  Plymouth  Mountain,  ten  miles ;  Loon  Pond,  five 
miles ;  Squam  Lake,  six  miles ;  Mount  Prospect,  four  miles ; 
Centre  Harbor,  twelve  miles.  Mount  Prospect  has  an  elevation 
of  over  2,900  feet,  and  a  carriage-road  reaches  nearly  to  its  sum- 
mit.    The  view  from  the  top  will  well  repay  the  trouble  of  a  visit. 

The  stage  route  from  Plymouth  to  the  Franconia  Mountains  is 
one  of  the  finest  in  the  whole  White  Mountain  district.  The  road 
lies  along  the  Pemigewasset  Valley  through  tlie  towns  of  Camp- 
ton,  Thornton,  Woodstock,  and  Lincoln.  The  distance  to  the 
Flume  House  is  twenty-five  miles,  and  to  the  Profile  House  thirty 
miles.  This  ride  makes  a  very  interesting  side  trip  to  those  who 
can  spare  the  time  for  it.  The  "Pemigewasset  Valley  Railroad  " 
is  now  finished  from  Plymouth  to  Woodstock. 


THE   ANDEOSCOGGIN  LAKES.  181 

Leaving  Plymouth  after  dinner,  the  train  for  twenty  miles  fol- 
lows the  valley  of  Baker's  River,  passing  Quincy's  Station,  Rum- 
ney.  West  Rumney,  and  Wcntworth,  reaching  Warren,  eighteen 
miles  above  Plymouth,  a  beautiful  and  picturesque  town  situated 
in  a  romantic  and  mountainous  region.  Moosilauke  Mountain, 
4,800  feet  in  height,  in  the  neighboring  town  of  Benton,  is  five 
miles  from  the  station.  A  good  carriage-road  leads  to  the  sum- 
mit. A  fine  view  of  Moosilauke  may  be  obtained  from  the  right 
of  the  train  while  going  northward.  A  few  miles  above  Warren 
is  a  high,  barren  cliff  called  Owl's  Head,  lying  off  to  the  right. 

From  Warren  the  road  runs  through  some  of  the  finest  scenery 
in  the  Granite  State,  and  swings  toward  the  Connecticut  River, 
as  we  approach  the  town  of  Haverhill.  The  next  station  above 
is  Woodsville,  and  on  the  opposite  side  of  the  Connecticut,  in 
Vermont,  Wells  River,  where  connections  are  made  with  the  Pas- 
sumpsic  Railroad  for  Newport,  Lake  Memphremagog,  and  Mon- 
treal, and  the  Montpelier  and  Wells  River  Railroad  for  Montpelier, 
Burlington,  and  Lake  Champlain.  All  trains,  except  the  Through 
Fast  Express,  cross  and  recross  the  Connecticut  between  Woods- 
ville and  Wells  River. 

The  next  stations  above  are  Bath,  Lisbon,  and  North  Lisbon, 
pleasant  and  attractive  villages,  lying  along  the  Ammonoosuc 
River ;  and,  leaving  them  without  especial  remark,  the  train  soon 
stops  at  Littleton,  the  largest  and  most  populous  village  in  this 
section  of  the  State.  The  scenery  at  Littleton  is  most  enjoyable, 
and  from  the  upper  part  of  the  town  an  excellent  view  of  the 
White  and  Franconia  Mountains  may  be  obtained.  There  are 
many  hotels  and  boarding-houses  in  Littleton,  Thayer's  Hotel 
being  the  most  popular  and  better  known. 

Seven  miles  beyond  Littleton  the  Wing  road,  an  important 
branch  of  the  Boston,  Concord,  and  Montreal  Railroad,  curves  to 
the  right  from  the  main  line,  and  continues  past  Bethlehem,  Twin 
Mountain  House,  White  Mountain  House,  and  Fabyan's,  to  the 
base  of  Mount  Washington,  connecting  there  with  the  Mount 
Washington  Railway. 

At  Fabyan's  connection  is  made  with  the  Portland  and  Ogdens- 
burg  Railroad  for  the  Crawford  House,  White  Mountain  Notch, 
North  Conway,  Sebago  Lake,  and  Portland. 

At  Bethlehem  connection  is  made  with  the  Bethlehem  and  Fran- 


182  FARRAR'S  ILLUSTRATED  GUIDE. 

conia  Notch  Railroad,  narrow-gauge  (opened  during  the  summer 
of  1879),  for  the  Profile  House  and  Franconia  Notch. 

Whitefield,  the  next  stopping-place  on  the  main  line,  is  an  im- 
portant lumbering  town,  the  head-quarters  of  Brown's  Lumber 
Company,  whose  extensive  mills  may  be  seen  near  the  station. 
A  short  branch,  the  Whitefield  and  Jefferson  Railroad,  runs  from 
"Whitefield  to  Jefferson,  ten  miles  distant.  The  scenery  in  the 
vicinity  of  Whitefield  is  very  fine,  and  it  is  something  of  a  summer 
resort. 

Between  Whitefield  and  Dalton  the  Portland  and  Ogdensburg 
Railroad  swings  to  the  left,  and  ends  at  St.  Johnsbury,  from 
which  place  the  line,  under  the  name  of  the  St.  Johnsbury  and 
Lake  Champlain  Railroad,  runs  to  Maquan  Bay,  and  thence  to 
Ogdensburg.  At  Swanton,  Vt.,  connection  is  made  with  the 
Central  Vermont  Railroad  for  Montreal  and  other  places  in 
Canada. 

Dalton,  South  Lancaster,  and  Lancaster,  are  the  next  three 
stations  on  the  line,  the  latter  quite  a  thriving  and  busy  place, 
and  one  of  the  prettiest  villages  in  New  Hampshire.  A  stage 
route  connects  this  place  with  Jefferson,  eight  miles  distant. 
Lancaster  has  a  large  number  of  visitors  each  season,  it  having 
been  a  popular  summer  resort  for  a  number  of  years. 

It  is  the  shire  town  of  Coos  county,  and  is  a  busy  place  at  any 
time.  Israel's  River  passes  through,  and  the  Connecticut  near, 
the  town.  The  drives  in  the  vicinity  are  very  fine,  and  the  roads 
excellent.  On  the  opposite  side  of  the  river  is  Lunenburg,  Vt. 
The  view  from  Lunenburg  Hills  is  one  of  the  best  to  be  obtained 
in  this  section. 

The  express  arrives  at  Lancaster  at  4.35  P.M.,  and  runs  no 
farther.  From  this  point  we  continue  our  journey  on  the  mail 
train,  wliich  does  not  leave  until  6.15,  giving  us  a  little  rest,  and 
ample  time  for  supper.  If  you  neglect  to  get  supper  here,  you 
do  not  have  another  chance  until  you  reach  North  Stratford,  at 
seven  o'clock.  From  Lancaster  a  short  run  brings  us  to  Guildhall, 
a  farming  and  lumbering  town  pleasantly  situated  near  the  Con- 
necticut River. 

The  next  station  is  Gbovetok  Junction,  from  where  you  obtain 
a  fine  view  of  the  mountains.  This  is  the  present  terminus  of  the 
road,  and  here  connection  is  made  with  the  Grand  Trunk  Railway. 


184  FARRAR'S  ILLUSTRATED   GUIDE   TO 

The  village  of  Groveton  is  half  a  mile  below,  on  the  Grand  Trunk 
Railway,  and  is  spoken  of  more  particularly  in  Chapter  XVI. 

The  Boston,  Concord,  and  Montreal  Railroad  Company  have  a 
charter  to  build  their  road  to  Colebrook,  N.H.,  and  we  under, 
stand  that  work  will  commence  on  the  extension  this  summer. 

At  6.00  P.M.  we  leave  Groveton  Junction,  on  the  Grand  Trunk 
Railway,  and,  passing  rapidly  along,  soon  reach  Stratford  Hollow. 
A  moment's  stop  here,  and  also  at  Beattie's,  a  few  miles  distant, 
iand  we  draw  up  at  North  Stratford,  twelve  miles  from  Groveton 
Junction,  arriving  at  7.00  P.M.  Here  we  leave  the  railroad  for 
the  stage-coach.  The  Percy  Hodse  and  tlie  Willabd  House, 
both  near  the  depot,  stand  hospitably  open  to  those  who  wish  to 
procure  supper,  or  to  stop  over  night,  as  some  do,  and  go  on  to 
Colebrook  the  next  morning. 

North  Stratford,  two  hundred  and  thirty-one  miles  from  Boston, 
via  the  Boston,  Concord,  and  Montreal  Railroad,  is  pleasantly 
situated  on  the  eastern  bank  of  the  Connecticut  River,  which  at 
this  place  is  an  attractive  stream,  white  with  rapids  and  falls. 
The  town  has  important  lumbering  interests,  and  a  large  amount 
of  business  is  done  here.  The  place  contains  two  churches,  sev- 
eral stores,  and  two  hotels,  the  Percy  House  and  the  Willabd 
House.  The  former  hotel  has  lately  changed  hands,  and  under 
its  present  management  has  become  a  popular  house.  The  i)ro- 
prietor  is  Mr.  J.  W.  Tibbetts,  who  does  all  in  his  power  to  make 
the  house  comfortable  and  attractive  to  visitors.  The  hotel  has 
good  accommodations  for  tourists  and  sportsmen,  an  excellent  table 
is  set,  and  the  rooms  are  all  well  furnished.  The  parlor  is  roomy 
and  pleasant,  and  guests  who  visit  the  house  once  are  sure  to 
go  the  second  time.  A  well-stocked  livery-stable  is  one  of  the 
features  of  the  Percy  House,  and  parties  wishing  to  visit  objects 
of  interest  in  the  neigiiborhood,  or  travel  beyond  North  Strat- 
ford in  a  private  conveyance,  can  obtain  any  description  of 
vehicle  required.  It  was  at  North  Stratford  that  Paul  Boyton, 
the  celebrated  swimmer,  took  to  the  water  when  he  floated  down 
the  Connecticut. 

On  the  Vermont  bank  of  the  Connecticut  River,  a  short  distance 
from  North  Stratford,  are  the  Brunswick  Springs.  A  new  hotel 
has  been  recently  erected  here,  and  ofiPers  superior  accommo- 
dations to  those  seeking  rest  or  pleasure.     The   scenery  in  the 


THE   ANDROSCOGGIN   LAKES. 


185 


vicinity  of  this  house  is  charming,  and  many  beautiful  drives  and 
inviting  walks  are  to  be  found  in  the  neighborhood. 

Maidstone  Lake,  in  Vermont,  only  seven  miles  from  tlie  Wil- 
lard  House,  offers  splendid  lunge  fishing.  Camp  Willard  has  a 
sightly  elevation  on  the  shore  of  the  lake,  and  offers  good  accom- 
modations to  tourists  and  s])ortsnipn.     The  proprietor  has  boats 


Mount  Monadnock,  and  Colebrook,  N.H. 


to  let,  and  will  try  and  make  it  pleasant  for  those  who  give  iiim 
a  call. 

During  the  season  of  summer  travel  the  stage  runs  twice,  daily, 
between  North  Stratford  and  Colebrook,  thirteen  miles,  connect- 
ing with  both  up-trains  on  the  Grand  Trunk  Railroad.  The  night 
stage  leaves  North  Stratford   shortly  after  the   arrival   of   the 


186  FARRAR'S   ILLUSTRATED  GUIDE  TO 

train,  and  runs  to  Colebrook,  thence  on  to  Canaan  the  next  morn- 
ing. Our  route  lies  along  the  right  bank  of  the  Connecticut 
River  all  the  way ;  never  far  from  it,  and  sometimes  so  near  that 
one  could  jump  from  the  coach  into  the  hurrying  stream  with 
ease.  Five  miles  above  the  railroad  we  pass  through  Columbia, 
a  farming  town  of  no  special  importance.  The  road  is  smooth, 
with  but  very  few  hills,  although  there  are  mountains  in  sight  all 
the  time.  The  stage  reaches  the  Paesons  House,  Colebrook, 
at  ten  P.M.,  and  we  gladly  leave  it  for  a  sheltering  roof  and  a 
comfortable  bed.  E.  F.  Bailey,  the  courteous  proprietor  of  the 
hotel,  looks  personally  to  our  comfort,  and  we  seem  to  realize, 
on  retiring,  that  our  "  lines  have  fallen  in  pleasant  places." 

One  of  the  prettiest  places  in  New  England  to  spend  a  vacation 
is  the  beautiful  village  of  Colebrook,  N.H.  For  families  who 
are  looking  for  a  desirable  place  in  which  to  spend  the  summer 
months,  we  know  of  none  more  charming  and  healthy,  or  more 
likely  to  please.  It  is  pleasantly  situated  on  the  eastern  bank  of 
the  Connecticut  River,  with  Mount  Monadnock  directly  opposite, 
in  the  adjoining  State  of  Vermont.  It  is  in  the  centre  of  some 
of  the  finest  drives  in  New  England,  over  excellent  roads. 
North  Stratford,  Canaan,  Columbia,  Beaver  Falls,  Dixvillc 
Notch,  Connecticut  Lake,  —  a  beautiful  sheet  of  water,  —  Dia- 
mond Pond,  —  a  great  place  for  successful  trout-fishing,  —  being 
all  within  easy  driving  distance.  A  very  pleasant  ride  may  also 
be  had  by  driving  down  the  river  four  miles,  crossing  at  that 
point,  and  driving  back  on  the  Vermont  side,  recrossing  the  river 
a  short  distance  from  the  Parsons  House. 

Colebrook  is  a  thriving  little  town,  and  a  good  deal  of  lumber- 
ing and  other  business  is  done  in  it.  A  daily  mail,  telegraph, 
and  line  of  stages  connect  it  with  other  towns  and  cities.  The 
buildings  are  neat,  well  constructed,  and  kept  in  good  repair; 
there  are  two  printing-offices,  —  a  Republican  and  a  Democratic 
newspaper,  both  weekly, — and  a  large  number  of  stores,  rep- 
resenting every  variety  of  trade.  There  are  two  churches,  a 
public  hall  and  two  hotels.  The  better  known  of  the  two,  the 
Paesons  House,  is  kept  by  Mr.  E.  F.  Bailey,  a  gentleman  well 
known  to  the  traveling  public,  and  one  who  understands  how  to 
run  a  hotel,  in  every  acceptance  of  the  term.  The  Parsons 
House  fronts  on  the  main  street,  and  occupies  a  corner  lot  in  the 


THE   ANDROSCOGGIN   LAKES. 


187 


heart  of  the  village ;  it  is  centrally  located,  and  connnands  a  fine 
view  of  Mount  Monadnock,  which  towers  skyward,  directly  in 
front,  just  across  the  river.  The  hotel  is  tliri  e  stories  high,  with 
double  piazzas  on  the  front  and  side.  The  rooms  are  well  fur- 
nished, an  excellent  table  is  set,  and  one  hundred  people  can  be 
taken  care  of  beneath  its   liospitable  roof.     A  first-class  livery 


Beaver  Falls,  Colebrook,  N.H, 


stable  is  attached  to  the  house,  and  teams  of  all  kinds  may  be 
liired  at  reasonable  prices. 

Among  the  points  of  interest  in  the  vicinity  of  Colebrook  are 
Mount  Monadnock,  Ceaver  Falls,  Diamond  Pond,  and  Dixville 
Notch.  Simm's  Stream,  two  miles  from  the  village,  Mohawk 
River,  running  directly  through  the  village,  and  Tallant's  Stream 


188  FARRAR'S  ILLUSTRATED   GUIDE  TO 

on  the  opposite  side  of  the  river,  in  Vermont,  furnish  excellent 
trout-fishing.  Diamond  Pond  is  ten  miles  from  Colebrook.  It  is 
well  stocked  witli  trout,  and  offers  good  fly-fishing.  Mr.  Bailey 
will  furnish  guides  for  ^1.50  to  $2.00  per  day,  who  are  well  ac- 
quainted with  all  the  trout  streams  in  the  vicinity  of  Colebrook. 

There  is  anew  and  well-furnished  camp  at  the  Diamond  Ponds, 
that  offers  suitable  accommodations  for  small  parties  of  ladies  and 
gentlemen.  You  can  drive  the  entire  distance  from  Colebrook  to 
the  camp,  there  being  a  good  road  all  the  way. 

Nearly  every  summer  visitor  to  Colebrook  makes  a  point  of 
ascending  Mount  Monadnock.  From  the  Parsons  House  to  the 
summit  is  about  three  miles.  Leaving  the  hotel,  a  short  walk 
brings  you  to  the  river,  spanned  by  a  covered  bridge.  Crossing 
this  you  strike  across  the  field  directly  opposite,  and  at  the  edge 
of  the  woods  you  will  find  an  old  logging  road.  You  follow  this 
as  far  as  it  goes,  and  then  continue  by  a  path  that  Mr.  Bailey  has 
had  bushed  out  to  the  top  of  the  mountain.  The  road,  although 
tiresome,  is  neither  difllcult  nor  dangerous.  The  best  lookout  is 
obtained  from  a  barren  ledge  near  the  summit.  The  view  from 
this  peak  is  picturesque,  wild,  and  extensive,  and  will  well  repay 
one  for  the  time  spent  in  the  trip. 

To  Connecticut  and  Parmachenee  Lakes. 

During  the  summer  season  there  is  a  daily  stage  line,  under 
the  management  of  Mr.  Bailey,  from  the  Parsons  House  to  Con- 
necticut Lake.  The  fare  for  the  round  trip  is  .$4.00,  and  for  one 
way  §2.50.  The  distance  is  twenty-five  miles.  The  drive  is  an 
inviting  one,  the  road  running  up  the  Connecticut  Valley.  The 
road  follows  the  east  bank  of  tlie  river  as  far  as  Stewartstown ; 
there  you  cross  to  Canaan,  on  the  Vermont  side,  and  continue  on 
up  the  west  bank.  Passing  through  the  village  of  Pittsburg,  you 
reach  the  lower  and  larger  Connecticut  Lake.  The  post-office, 
store,  and  hotel  are  near  the  outlet.  The  hotel  is  a  good  one, 
having  been  lately  repaired,  and  is  owned  by  an  enterprising  gen- 
tleman, Asa  Smith,  who  carries  on  extensive  lumbering  opera- 
tions in  this  vicinity.  It  is  three  stories  high,  and  will  accommo- 
date fifty  people.  A  competent  person  is  in  charge,  who  runs  it  in 
good  shape,  and  the  terms  are  reasonable.    The  same  gentleman 


THE  ANDROSCOGGIN  LAItES.  189 

has  a  good  logging-camp  at  the  outlet  of  the  Second  Connecticut 
Lake,  where  sportsmen  can  be  accommodated. 

Connecticut  Lake  is  one  of  the  finest  sheets  of  water  in  New 
England,  and  is  situated  in  the  middle  of  a  far-reaching  wilder- 
ness. It  is  about  four  miles  long,  and  nearly  as  wide.  The  lake 
contains  trout  and  lunge,  some  of  which  have  been  caught  weigh- 
ing as  high  as  twenty  pounds.  There  are  several  ponds  and 
streams  in  this  vicinity,  well  stocked  with  the  spotted  brook- 
trout;  these  furnish  excellent  fishing.  The  surrounding  forests 
abound  in  wild  game  of  all  kinds,  and  offer  fine  sport  to  lovers 
of  the  gun.  Competent  guides  for  this  section  of  the  country 
may  be  hired  at  the  hotel,  also  row  and  sail  boats. 

Leaving  Connecticut  Lake  we  continue  on,  the  road  running  on 
the  north  side  of  the  lake  and  river,  and  reach  the  outlet  of 
Second  Lake,  six  miles  beyond.  A  trail  runs  from  here  half  a 
mile  above  to  a  camp  on  the  west  shore  of  the  lake.  This  is  kept 
by  Thomas  Chester,  a  first-rate  hunter  and  good  guide.  He  has 
accommodations  for  about  twenty  people,  and  will  entertain  them 
in  good  shape  at  a  cliarge  of  $1.50  per  day.  If  you  have  the 
time  to  spare,  a  few  days  may  be  pleasantly  spent  with  Mr.  Ches- 
ter, who  will  show  you  some  good  sport,  both  for  the  rod  and 
rifle.  He  has  boats  to  let  on  the  lake,  and  famishes  parties  with 
camp  stores. 

There  is  a  good  buckboard  road  all  the  way  from  the  First  to  the 
Second  Connecticut  Lake,  and  persons  can  ride  the  entire  distance. 

During  the  spring  of  1879  ten  thousand  young  landlocked 
salmon  were  put  in  the  Second  Connecticut  Lake,  and  in  a  year  or 
two  more  they  will  furnish  fine  sport. 

Third  Lake,  or  the  Upper  Connecticut,  is  five  miles  from  Second 
Lake,  and  but  a  short  distance  from  the  Canada  line.  The  fishing 
and  hunting  in  the  vicinity  are  good ;  but  you  cannot  do  much  with- 
out a  guide  who  is  thoroughly  conversant  with  the  country. 

From  Camp  Chester  across  the  lake  to  the  Parmachenee  Carry 
is  two  miles,  and  Mr.  Chester  will  take  you  over  in  a  boat. 
From  the  east  side  of  Second  Lake  to  the  Magalloway  Eiver, 
above  Parmachenee,  is  eight  miles,  and  a  good  trail  the  entire 
distance.  From  Second  Lake  the  ground  gradually  rises  until 
within  a  mile  of  the  little  Magalloway,  where  the  height  of  land 
is  passed,  and  then  gently  descends.     About  half-way  across  the 


190  FARRAR'S  ILLUSTRATED  GUIDE  TO 

Carry,  on  the  banks  of  the  Little  Magalloway,  John  Danf  orth  has 
built  a  small  camp,  where  you  can  stop  over  night  if  you  choose. 

Within  a  mile  of  the  Magalloway  River  a  spotted  line  leaves 
the  main  trail  and  runs  to  the  head  of  Parmachenee  Lake,  where 
persons  will  find  a  boat  to  take  them  to  Danforth's  Camp  Caribou, 
located  on  Treat's  Island,  a  short  distance  away.  A  description 
of  Parmachenee  Lake,  the  country  around,  and  Camp  Caribou, 
will  be  found  in  Chapter  XVII. 

At  7.00  A.M.  you  leave  Colebrook  for  Dixville  Notch,  ten  miles 
distant,  and  Errol  Dam,  twenty-one  miles,  on  one  of  Mr.  Bailey's 
fine  Concord  wagons,  drawn  by  four  horses.  The  road  is  first- 
rate  the  entire  distance,  the  part  through  the  Notch  being  kept  in 
repair  at  the  expense  of  the  State.  If  you  wish  to  connect  with 
the  morning  boat,  and  make  the  trip  up  the  Magalloway  River, 
you  make  no  stop  at  Dixville  Notch,  but  go  directly  to  Errol 
Dam,  where  connection  is  made  with  the  new  steamer  "Parma- 
chenee "  for  all  points  on  Lake  Umbagog.  The  steamer  arrives 
from  Cambridge  and  Sunday  Cove,  Middle  Dam  Carry,  at  10.30, 
and  leaves  the  Dam  at  11.00  A.M.,  runs  up  the  Androscoggin  and 
Magalloway  Rivers,  stops  one  hour  at  the  wharf,  allowing  time 
for  dinner  at  the  Berlin  Mills  House,  directly  opposite  the  steam- 
boat landing.  When  the  water  is  low  the  steamer  stops  at  the 
'*  Lower  Landing,"  six  miles  below  the  hotel  by  river,  and  two  by 
road,  and  passengers  are  met  by  a  team  and  carried  to  the  hotel 
by  land.  The  steamers  run  up  the  Magalloway  River  daily,  ex- 
cept Sunday.  At  2.00  P.  M.  the  boat  leaves  the  Berlin  Mills  House, 
and  retraces  her  course  to  Errol  Dam.  On  arrival  of  the  steamer 
the  stage  leaves  for  Dixrille  Notch  and  Colebrook,  reaching  the 
latter  place  at  7.00  o'clock.  The  steamer  leaves  Errol  Dam  at 
3.30  P.M.  for  Sunday  Cove,  Middle  Dam  Carry,  ten  miles  dis- 
tant, where  connection  is  made  with  teams  for  the  Middle  Dam, 
arriving  at  the  Dam  at  G.OO  P.M.,  and  connecting  next  morning 
with  steamers  "  Welokennebacook  "  or  "  Molechunkamunk,"  on 
Lake  Welokennebacook,  for  Upper  Dam  and  Indian  Rock.  At 
4.45  P.M.  the  steamer  leaves  Sunday  Cove,  arriving  at  Lake- 
side, Cambridge,  twelve  miles  distant,  at  G.  15,  where  she  stops 
over  night.  There  is  a  stage  line  between  Cambridge  and  Bethel 
oa  the  Grand  Trunk  Railway.     (See  Chapter  IV.) 

Persons  wishing  to  try  the  fishing  in  the  vicinity  of  Errol  Dam 


THE   ANDROSCOGGIN   LAKES.  191 

will  find  good  accommodation  at  Bragg's  Hotel,  one  mile  from 
the  Dam,  where  the  stage  puts  up. 

The  morning  stage  from  Colebrook  reaches  Dixville  Notch  at 
10.30.  If  you  would  see  the  beauties  of  this  celebrated  moun- 
tain pass,  the  most  wild  and  romantic  of  any  in  New  England, 
you  leave  the  stage,  and  stop  over  until  the  next  morning.  In  a 
day  you  can  visit  all  the  points  of  interest  in  this  vicinity.  Fare 
from  Colebrook  to  Dixville  Notch,  $1.50;  from  Dixville  Notch  to 
Errol  Dam,  $1.50;  from  Colebrook  to  Errol  Dam,  $2.50. 

The  mail-stage  line  is  owned  by  Mr.  George  Parsons,  of  the 
Dix  House,  and  his  teams  leave  Colebrook  every  Monday, 
Wednesday,  and  Friday  for  Dixville  Notch  and  Errol  Dam,  at 
9.00  A.M.,  and  return  every  Tuesday,  Thursday,  and  Saturday 
from  Errol  Dam,  at  11.00  A.M. 

Whether  you  stop  a  day  or  longer  you  will  find  good  accommo- 
dations at  the  Dix  House,  pleasantly  located  at  the  western  en- 
trance of  the  Notch.  Mr.  George  Parsons  is  the  proprietor  of 
the  hotel,  and  will  furnish  guides  for  this  locality  to  those  who 
wish  them. 

Nathan's  Pond,  the  Diamond  Ponds,  Clear  Stream,  and  several 
other  bodies  of  water,  within  easy  walking  distance  of  the  Notch, 
furnish  excellent  trout  fishing  to  the  disciples  of  Walton. 

Among  the  many  objects  of  interest  in  and  around  the  Notch 
may  be  mentioned  the  Silver  Cascade,  Flume,  Profile,  Pulpit 
Hock,  Columnar  Heights,  Jacob's  Ladder,  Snow  Cave,  and  Table 
Rock.  In  Chapters  XV.  and  XVI.  the  reader  will  find  a  more 
particular  description  of  Dixville  Notch. 


CHAPTER  XV. 


jFrom  tfte  (3ltn  H^amt,  aitti  jFafagan^s,  SEfjite 

JHountains,  to  tfje  ^ntiroscoggin  Hafte 

Eegion,  bta  ©txbille  i^otctj  anti 

€rrol  ©am. 


EAVING  the  Glen  House,  at  the  foot  of  Mount 
Washington,  at  eiglit  o'clock  A.M.,  a  beautiful 
stage- ride  of  eight  miles  brings  you  to  Gorham, 
where  you  connect  with  the  early  morning  up-train 
from  Portland.  The  fare  from  the  Glen  to  Gorham 
is  $1.50. 
Taking  the  cars  you  pass  rapidly  through  Berlin 
Falls,  Milan,  Stark,  Groveton,  Stratford  Hollow.  Beattie's,  to 
North  Stratfokd,  arriving  at  twenty  minutes  past  one.  Here 
you  have  dinner,  and  after  dinner  take  the  stage  for  Colebrook, 
thirteen  miles  distant.  A  ride  of  two  hours,  and  you  reach  the 
Parsons  House,  where  you  stop  over  night. 

The  ride  to  Colebrook,  up  the  Connecticut,  is  really  beautiful. 
From  time  to  time  a  view  of  a  broad  intervale,  with  the  glittering 
river  sweeping  through  it  in  a  stately  curve,  will  make  you  regret 
that  the  horses  were  not  slower,  that  you  might  tiie  more  leisurely 
feast  your  eyes  on  the  charming  panorama  unrolling  before  you. 
Or  you  may  leave  the  Glen  House  in  tlic  afternoon,  connecting 
at  Gorham  with  the  1.20  P.M.  train  from  Portland,  reaching 
North  Stratford  at  8.15  P.M.,  and  Colebrook  at  10.00  P.M.,  as 
the  Colebrook  stage  connects  with  both  the  morning  and  the  even- 
ing trains  on  the  Grand  Trunk  road ;  the  next  morning  you 
continue  your  iourney  by  Parsons'  or  Bailey's  stage  to  the  Dam. 
The  mail  stage  runs  Monday,  Wednesday,  and  Friday,  leaving 
Colebrook  at  9  A.M.,  down  through  the  Notch  to  Ekrol  Dam. 
(193) 


194  FARRAR'S   ILLUSTRATED   GUIDE. 

Leaving  Fabyan's  by  the  morning  or  afternoon  trains,  you  pass 
by  Wing  Road,  Whitefield,  Dalton,  Lancaster,  and  Northumber- 
land, arriving  at  Groveton  Junction  in  time  to  take  the  afternoon 
or  evening  trains  on  the  Grand  Trunk  Railway  for  North  Stratford, 
and  then  proceed  as  above. 

At  the  Dix  HoDSE  you  will  find  excellent  accommodations,  at 
$2.00  per  day.  The  house  is  kept  by  Mr.  Geobge  Parsons,  who 
also  runs  the  mail-stage  line  between  Colebrook  and  Errol  Dam, 
and  has  a  good  livery-stable  connected  with  it. 

This  hotel  was  built  new  during  the  summer  of  1875,  and  will 
accommodate  about  fifty  people.  It  is  considered  as  only  an  L  to 
the  main  house,  which  is  to  be  36  X  IfiO  on  the  ground,  and  three 
stories  high,  the  establishment  containing  when  finished  about  one 
hundred  and  fifty  rooms. 

The  Dix  House  was  formally  opened  to  the  traveling  public, 
on  Wednesday,  July  4,  1875.  The  township  in  which  the  build- 
ing is  located  was  formerly  owned  by  the  father  of  Ex-Governor 
Dix  of  New  York.  At  the  opening  several  distinguished  gentle- 
men were  present  as  guests  of  the  proprietor,  among  them  Ex- 
Governor  Dix,  in  whose  honor  the  house  was  named. 

Lovers  of  the  gun  and  rod  will  find  excellent  sport  in  this 
vicinity,  while  the  pleasure-seeker  and  tourist  will  be  delighted 
with  the  scenery  by  which  the  house  is  surrounded.  Raspberries 
grow  in  luxurious  profusion  near  the  hotel,  and  in  tlieir  season 
one  can  always  procure  plenty  of  this  delicious  fruit. 

In  this  connection  we  cannot  do  better  than  to  quote  from  that 
valuable  handbook  of  mountain  travel,  Eastman's  White  Moun- 
tain Guide.     Of  Dixville  Notch  the  author  says  :  — 

"The  first  view  is  very  impressive ;  it  opens  like  a  Titanic  gate- 
way to  some  region  of  vast,  mysterious  desolation.  The  pass  is 
much  narrower  than  either  of  those  in  the  White  Mountains,  and 
through  its  whole  extent  of  a  mile  and  a  quarter  has  more  the 
character  of  a  notch.  One  cannot  but  feel  that  the  mountain  was 
rent  apart  by  some  volcanic  convulsion,  and  the  two  sides  left  to 
tell  the  story  by  their  correspondence  and  the  naked  dreariness 
of  the  pillars  of  rotting  rock  that  face  each  other.  So  narrow  is 
the  ravine  (it  can  hardly  be  called  a  pass)  that  a  rough  and  pre- 
carious roadway  for  a  single  carriage  could  only  be  constructed  by 
building  up  against  the  mountain's  side  a  substructure  of  rude 


Q 


196  FARRAR'S   ILLUSTRATED    GUIDE  TO 

masonry,  vrhile  the  walls  slope  upward  so  sharply  on  either  hand 
that  a  considerable  outlay  is  demanded  of  the  State  every  year  to 
clear  it  of  the  stones  and  earth  which  the  frosts  and  rain  roll  into 
it  every  winter  and  spring. 

"No  description  can  impart  an  adequate  conception  of  the 
mournful  grandeur  of  the  decaying  cliffs  of  mica  slate  which  over- 
bang  the  way.  They  shoot  up  in  most  singular  and  fantastic 
shapes,  and  vary  in  height  from  four  hundred  to  eight  hundred 
feet.  A  few  centuries  ago  the  pass  must  have  been  very  wild ; 
but  the  pinnacles  of  rock,  which  gave  the  scenery  such  an  Alpine 
character,  are  rapidly  crumbling  away.  Some  have  decayed  to  half 
their  original  height ;  and  the  side  walls  of  the  Notch  are  strewn 
with  debris,  which  the  ice  and  storms  have  pried  and  gnawed  from 
the  decrepit  cliffs.  The  whole  aspect  is  one  of  ruin  and  wreck. 
The  creative  forces  seem  to  have  retreated  from  the  spot,  and 
abandoned  it  to  the  sport  of  the  destructive  elements.  One  might 
entertain  the  thought  that  some  awful  crime  had  been  committed 
there,  for  which  the  region  was  blasted  by  a  lasting  curse. 

"One  should  climb  the  highest  pinnacle,  called  Table  Rock, 
which  juts  out  from  the  southerly  wall  of  the  pass,  and  stands 
about  eight  hundred  feet  above  the  road.  It  is  no  easy  task  to 
keep  the  footing  in  the  steep  ascent  over  the  loose  and  treacher- 
ous ruins  of  slate  that  strew  the  way.  Hands  and  feet  are  neces- 
sary. Table  Rock  is  a  narrow,  projecting  ledge,  only  some  six 
or  eight  feet  wide  at  the  summit,  and  about  a  hundred  and  fifty 
feet  long,  rising  in  almost  unbroken  precipice  on  each  side  for 
several  hundred  feet.  Tiie  descent  is  even  more  arduous  than 
the  ascent.  It  will  be  found,  however,  that  the  view  from  the 
summit  repays  the  toil  of  the  scramble.  It  is  no  small  trial  for 
weak  nerves  to  walk  out  upon  the  side  of  the  Notch  upon  this 
cliff,  not  more  than  eix  feet  wide,  and  eight  hundred  feet  sheer 
down.  No  part  of  the  ride  up  Mt.  Washington  makes  the  head 
swim  so  giddily.  From  it  one  can  easily  see  into  Maine,  Ver- 
mont, and  Canada.  Only  a  few  miles  east  lies  Lake  Umbagog, 
where  the  moose  congregate  in  the  evening  to  stand  up  to  their 
neck  in  water  and  '  fight  flies,'  as  the  guides  express  it.  About 
ten  miles  north  is  Lake  Connecticut,  a  beautiful  sheet  of  water, 
mother  of  the  noble  river  which  is  the  pride  of  New  England.  A 
tourist  might  spend  a  few  days  very  profitably  in  exploring  the 


THE   ANDROSCOGGm  LAKES.  197 

novelties  of  the  districts  that  lie  around  the  Notch.  On  the  face 
of  this  cliff,  seen  from  below,  some  locate  the  usual  Profile, 
without  which  a  mountain  pass  is  regarded  as  incomplete. 

"  After  about  an  hour's  stay  upon  the  pinnacle  one  should  de- 
scend and  ride  through  the  pass  to  a  flume  just  before  the  east- 
ern gateway  is  reached.  Nearly  opposite  the  entrance  to  the 
flume  will  be  found  a  remarkably  cold  spring.  On  the  opposite 
side  of  the  road,  in  the  woods,  just  beyond  the  Notch,  there  is  a 
series  of  beautiful  cascades,  extending  nearly  a  mile,  surpassed  in 
beauty  and  volume  by  none  in  the  whole  White  Mountain  region. 

"The  grand  distinctive  features  of  Dixville  Notch  are  desola- 
tion and  decay.  How  charming,  then,  the  surprise,  in  passing 
through  the  Notch  eastward,  to  ride  out  from  its  spiky  teeth  of 
slate  into  the  most  lovely  plain,  called  '  The  Clear  Stream 
Meadows,'  embosomed  in  mountains,  luxuriantly  wooded  to  the 
crown.  It  is  something  like  descending  from  the  desolation  of  the 
Alps  into  the  foliage  and  beauty  of  Italy.  The  only  house  near 
was  accidentally  burned  a  few  years  since.  The  graves  of  the 
earliest  settler  and  his  wife  are  there,  fenced  off  rudely,  and 
overgrown  with  tall  weeds,  which  nature  wears  for  them.  How 
many  of  the  great  and  wealthy  of  our  land  will  find  such  a  ceme- 
tery ?  A  mountain  range  for  a  monument ;  a  luxuriant  valley  for  a 
grave ;  such  silence  to  sleep  in  as  no  Mt.  Auburn  can  assure,  and 
their  story  told  to  visitants  from  far-off"  portions  of  the  land !  " 

Having  spent  a  couple  of  days  at  Dixville  Notch,  you  take  a 
team  at  the  Dix  House,  after  dinner,  and  drive  easterly  through 
the  Notch,  across  the  Clear  Stream  Meadows,  and  thence 
through  a  lovely  country,  a  distance  of  eleven  miles,  arriving  at 
the  Errol  Dam,  on  the  Androscoggin  River,  at  three  o'clock, 
connecting  with  the  little  steamer  Parmachenee,  to  which  you 
transfer  yourself  and  sail  up  the  river  to  the  lake,  a  distance  of  six 
miles;  thence  across  the  lake  four  miles,  to  Sunday  Cove,  where 
you  change  to  a  two-horse  team.  The  balance  of  the  trip  is  made 
the  same  as  by  the  Bethel  and  Lake  Umbagog  Route,  reaching 
Middle  Dam  Camp  about  six  o'clock  in  the  evening.  This  is  one 
of  the  finest  trips  for  tourists  in  New  England,  and  we  cannot  too 
highly  recommend  it.  The  Profile  at  Dixville  Notch  is  equal, 
if  not  superior,  to  the  "  Old  Man  of  the  Mountain,"  atFranconia, 
over  which  so  many  writers  have   grown  enthusiastic,  and  the 


198 


FAHRAR'S    ILLl'STUATED   GUIDE. 


Flume  and  Cascadks,  on  tlu-  eastern  side  of  the  Notch,  are 
equal  to  anytliing  to  be  found  in  the  Wliite  or  Franconia  Moun- 
tains, while  the  seenery  along  the  road  the  entire  distance  from 
Colehrook  to  the  Erkol  Dam  is  one  succession  of  beautiful  pict- 
ures. 

Tlie  fare  from  the  Glen  House,  or  Fabyan's,  to  the  Middle  Dam 
Camp,  by  this  route,  will  be  about  ^10.00. 


CHAPTER  XVI. 


JFrom  Boston  to  tfje  ^nUroscoggin  iLaftes,  bia 

i^ortfj  ^tratfortr,  Coletook,  ©ixbtlle 

i^otri),  anU  (JHrrol  ©am. 


^0  PORTLAND,  by  boat  or  cars,  as  already 
described;  thence  by  Grand  Trunk  Railroad 
to  North  Stratford;  thence  to  Colebrook, 
DixviLLE  Notch,  and  Errol  Dam,  by  stage ; 
thence  by  Steamer  Parmachenee  across  Lake 
Umbagog  to  the  Middle  Dam  Carry;  then 
team  across  the  carry,  five  miles,  to  the  Middle 
Dam.     Time,  two  days  from  Boston. 

Leaving  Portland  from  the  Grand  Trunk  Railroad  Station,  at 
the  foot  of  India  street,  on  the  1.30  train,  we  pass  swiftly  across 
tlie  bridge  and  through  tlie  deep  rock-cutting  at  Fish  Point. 
Casco  Bay  then  opens  to  view,  and  for  a  mile  or  more,  while  pass- 
ing around  tlie  Neck  and  over  the  bridge  that  crosses  to  West- 
brook,  the  broad  bay  is  seen,  dotted  with  numerous  islands,  reced- 
ing to  the  dim  shores  of  Brunswick  and  Harpswell,  —  a  distance 
of  twenty  miles. 

The  train  sweeps  rapidly  through  the  easterly  portion  of  West- 
brook,  a  distance  of  nearly  two  miles,  presenting  some  pleasant 
views  of  land  and  water,  then  crosses  the  Presumpscot  River,  over 
a  substantial  bridge  three  hundred  feet  in  length,  and  a  mile  and  a 
half  farther  on  reaches  the  depot  at  Falmouth,  five  miles  from 
Portland.  This  is  a  farming  town,  although  on  the  eastern  side 
some  ship-building  is  carried  on.  Leaving  here,  we  pass  through 
an  undulating  farming  country,  pleasant  to  look  out  on  but  of  no 
especial  interest,  and  stop  for  a  moment  at  Cumberland,  nine 
miles  from  Portland-  This  place  is  similar  in  character  to  Fal- 
^99) 


200  FARRAR'S  ILLUSTRATED  GUIDE  TO 

mouth.  Moving  again,  obtaining  occasional  glimpses  of  the  land- 
locked bay,  a  few  minutes'  ride  brings  us  to  the  flourishing  seaport 
of  Yarmouth,  eleven  miles  from  Portland,  a  very  pleasant  old 
town,  where  considerable  ship-building  is  carried  on.  A  mile 
above  this  station  the  Grand  Trunk  Railroad  is  crossed  by  a 
branch  of  the  Maine  Central,  formerly  the  Portland  and  Kenne- 
bec road.  This  crossing  is  known  as  Yarmouth  Junction,  and 
both  of  the  roads  have  depots  here.  Tliis  branch  of  the  Maine 
Central  runs  from  Portland  to  Augi'sta;  from  Brunswick,  a  sta- 
tion on  the  road,  another  branch  diverges  to  Bath. 

Leaving  the  junction  we  rattle  northward  once  more  through 
an  agricultural  country  devoid  of  any  striking  features,  and  halt 
for  a  moment  at  North  Yarmouth,  fifteen  miles  from  Portland. 
Business  attended  to,  again  we  move,  and,  after  making  a  short 
run,  reach  Pownal,  nineteen  miles  from  Portland.  A  few  minutes 
here  suflBice,  and  on  we  go,  the  country  becoming  more  undulat- 
ing, presenting  many  charming  views  to  the  eyes  of  the  tourist, 
and  soon  slack  up  at  New  Gloucester,  twenty-two  miles  from 
Portland,  one  of  the  best  farming-towns  in  the  State ;  the  village 
lies  west  of  the  station,  on  elevated  land,  and  looks  very  pretty 
from  the  cars.  After  a  short  stop  the  whistle  is  heard  again,  and 
on  we  go  to  Danville  Junction,  twenty-eight  miles  from  Port- 
land. At  this  point  the  Grand  Trunk  is  crossed  by  the  Maine 
Central  Railroad,  running  from  Portland  to  Auburn,  Lewiston, 
Farmington,  Waterville,  Skowhegan,  and  Bangor, 

Leaving  the  "  crossing,"  a  few  moments'  ride  brings  us  to  Lewis- 
ton  Junction.  Here  a  short  but  important  branch  of  the  Grand 
Trunk  diverges  to  the  two  great  manufacturing  places  of  Maine, 
Lewiston  and  Auburn.  Stages  also  run  from  this  station  to  the 
celebrated  Poland  Springs.  Persons  visiting  Lewiston  will  find  in 
the  De  Witt  House  a  first-class  hotel,  elegantly  furnished,  with 
all  modern  conveniences.  Mr.  Frank  A.  Hale,  the  present  land- 
lord, is  also  proprietor  of  the  Lake  Auburn  Mineral  Spring  Hotel, 
situated  at  a  popular  summer  resort  five  miles  from  Lewiston. 
The  De  "Witt  has  been  repaired  and  refitted  under  their  care ;  it 
has  a  nice  billiard-hall  and  bath-rooms,  and  the  cuisine  is  unex- 
ceptionable. It  is  safe  to  say  that  there  is  not  a  more  popular  or 
better  kept  hotel  east  of  Boston  than  the  Db  Witt,  and  we  confi- 
dently recommend  it  to  tourists  and  business  men. 


THE  ANDROSCOGGIN  LAKES.  201 

Again  in  motion  and  flying  along,  passing  cultivated  fields  and 
green  pastures,  with  an  occasional  strip  of  woodland,  we  reach  the 
Empire  Road  station,  in  the  town  of  Poland,  thirty-two  miles 
from  Portland.  This  is  an  agricultural  country,  and,  requiring  no 
further  notice,  we  leave  it  as  the  steam-whistle  again  sends  forth 
its  warning  note,  and  speeding  merrily  away  we  get  one  stage 
farther  on  our  journey,  slowing  down  this  time  at  the  flourishing 
village  of  Mechanic  Palls,  situated  on  the  Little  Androscoggin 
river,  and  thirty-six  miles  from  Portland.  The  stream  mentioned 
above  furnishes  ample  water-power,  and  a  large  amount  of  manu- 
facturing is  done  here.  The  "  Rumford  Falls  and  Buckfield 
Railroad,"  connects  here  with  the  Grand  Trunk.  The  road  was 
opened  in  July,  1878,  and  runs  through  Mechanic  Falls,  Minot, 
Hebron,  Buckfield,  and  Sumner,  to  Canton,  its  present  terminus. 
At  Canton  stages  connect  daily  for  Dixfleld,  Mexico,  Roxbury, 
Byron,  and  the  Androscoggin  Lakes,  at  Bemis  Stream. 

Returning  to  the  train,  we  again  move  onvyard,  following  up  the 
valley  of  the  Little  Androscoggin  River,  — which  stream  we  cross 
several  times,  —  and  put  on  the  brakes  at  Oxford,  forty  miles 
from  Portland.  Here  our  stop  is  but  momentary,  and  at  the  sig- 
nal from  the  conductor,  who  shouts  "  All  aboard  I  "  we  rattle  on 
once  more.  From  this  point  the  landscape  improves  with  every 
mile,  and  the  tourist  notes  with  pleasure  the  beautiful  and  roman- 
tic views,  —  a  rolling  meadow,  where  browsing  kine  are  moving 
slowly,  looking  up  with  wonder  at  the  fiery  monster  rushing  by 
them ;  a  tranquil  bend  in  the  river,  overhung  with  drooping  elms 
and  graceful  maples ;  a  trout-fisher  standing  on  some  lone  rock 
or  fallen  tree,  watching  anxiously  for  the  onset  of  some  spotted 
beauty ;  distant  mountains,  whose  peaks  are  sharply  outlined 
againt  the  ethereal  blue,  —  all  lend  a  charm  to  the  ride,  and  you 
scarcely  notice  the  approach  to  the  next  station,  which  proves  to 
be  South  Paris,  forty-eight  miles  from  Portland.  The  village, 
which  is  large  and  flourishing,  lies  to  the  northward  of  the  station. 
Paris  Hill,  so  called,  is  about  two  miles  beyond,  and  is  thickly 
settled.  The  court-house  is  located  here,  Paris  being  the  shire- 
town  of  Oxford  County.  A  branch  of  the  Grand  Trunk  Railway 
runs  from  South  Paris  to  Norway,  a  mile  and  a  half  distant. 
Our  iron  steed,  having  taken  his  regular  rations  of  fuel  and 
water,  is  once  more  hurrying  onward.     OS  to  the  right  we  catch 


202  FARRAR'S  ILLUSTRATED   GUIDE  TO 

a  passing  glimpse  of  the  buildings  on  Paris  Hill,  with  the  farms 
and  orchards  mapping  its  southern  slope. "  The  grade  now  rises 
fast,  the  surrounding  hills  assume  loftier  proportions,  and  the 
scenery  begins  to  be  more  diversified  in  character.  While  you 
are  noticing  the  gradual  change  in  the  landscape,  the  engineer 
whistles  "  Down  brakes ! "  and  in  a  moment  more  the  train  comes 
to  a  halt  in  front  of  the  Wkst  Paris  station,  fifty-five  mil6s  from 
Portland.  You  have  scarcely  time  to  take  a  look  about  you  here 
before  the  train  is  again  in  motion.  Four  miles  from  this  station 
commences  the  heaviest  grade  on  the  whole  road,  being  n  rise 
of  sixty  feet  to  the  mile.  This  continues  until  you  arrive  at  the 
Bryant's  Pond  station,  in  the  town  of  Woodstock,  a  distance  of 
sixty-two  miles  from  Portland.  Tlic  track  has  now  attained  an 
elevation  of  seven  hundred  feet,  and  you  begin  to  realize  that  you 
are  getting  up  in  the  world.  A  granite  quarry  that  is  worked 
some  by  the  railroad  company  is  passed  just  before  reaching  the 
station.  While  on  the  train  one  day  in  June,  several  years  ago, 
the  writer  witnessed  a  singular  occurrence.  We  were  between 
West  Paris  and  Byrant's  Pond,  and  had  just  reached  the  steepest 
part  of  the  grade.  All  at  once,  without  any  warning,  the  speed 
of  the  train  began  to  slacken,  and  it  finally  came  to  a  stand-still. 
The  passengers  left  the  cars  to  ascertain  the  cause  of  this  sudden 
stop,  and,  to  their  wonder  and  surprise,  found  both  the  tracks  and 
road-bed  covered  with  millions  of  caterpillars,  wlio  were  travel- 
ing to  greener  fields  and  pastures  new.  So  many  of  these  dis- 
gusting insects  had  been  crushed  under  the  wheels  that  the  track 
was  covered  with  slime  and  grease,  and  the  wheels  of  the  engine 
refused  to  turn.  The  train  was  backed  a  short  distance,  while 
the  railroad  employes  on  the  train  took  brooms  and  cleared  the 
tracks  ahead,  which  were  then  covered  with  sand.  This  furnished 
our  iron  steed  a  foothold,  and  making  a  renewed  and  vigorous 
start,  we  passed  the  crawling,  wriggling  mass  of  insect  life,  and 
reached  the  station.  It  reminded  us  of  Western  stories  that  tell 
of  trains  being  frequently  stopped  on  the  i)lains  by  the  flights  of 
grasshoppers.  We  had  never  taken  much  stock  in  these  yarns ; 
but,  after  being  an  eye-witness  to  the  caterpillar  incident,  we 
were  prepared  to  believe  they  might  be  true.  The  village  of 
Bryant's  Pond  is  very  prettily  situated,  and  derives  its  name  from 
the  beautiful  and  romantic  sheet  of  water  in  sistht  of  the  station. 


THE   ANDROSCOGGIN  LAKES.  203 

On  the  opposite  side  of  the  pond  a  bold  and  rugged  highland, 
thickly  wooded,  rises  from  the  water  to  a  height  of  a  thousand 
feet.  It  is  called  Mount  Christopher,  taking  its  name  from  an 
early  settler  of  this  region,  one  Christopher  Bryant,  the  miniature 
lake  retaining  his  family  appellation.  This  mountain  is  easily 
ascended  from  its  western  side,  and  the  extensive  view  its  sum- 
mit commands  Avill  amply  recompense  the  tourist  for  the  time 
and  labor  of  the  ascent.  Goose-eye  mountain,  in  Newry,  and 
White  Cap,  near  Andover,  in  all  their  sterile  and  rugged  grandeur, 
may  be  seen  to  the  north-east  from  the  right-hand  side  of  the  cars 
as  you  approach  the  Bryant's  Pond  station.  At  this  place  pas- 
sengers who  are  intending  to  visit  the  Androscoggin  Lakes,  the 
paradise  of  sportsmen  and  tourists,  the  greatest  hunting  and  fish- 
ing district  east  of  the  Eocky  Mountains,  or  the  famous  new 
summer  resort,  the  romantic  village  of  Andover,  leave  the  cars 
here  and  go  over  the  Great  Central  Route  to  these  places. 
The  easy  and  commodious  four-horse  Concord  coaches  of  Messrs. 
Tuttle  and  Perkins  will  be  found  at  the  depot  in  waiting  to  convey 
travelers. 

It  may  not  be  generally  known  that  this  whole  region  was  sur- 
veyed by  the  railroad  company  before  the  railroad  was  built,  in 
hopes  of  finding  a  feasible  route  farther  north  than  the  present 
one,  but  without  success.  A  passable  route  to  the  Lake  Basin, 
by  following  the  Ellis  River  from  Andover  through  Dunn's  Notch, 
was  reconnoitred,  departing  from  the  present  line  at  Bryant's 
Pond ;  but  insurmountable  obstacles  interposed  between  the  lakes 
and  the  Connecticut  River,  the  only  depression  between  these 
points  showing  any  chance  of  a  route,  that  of  the  famous  Dix- 
viLLE  Notch,  being  1,968  feet  above  tide-water,  and  the  topog- 
raphy of  the  region  thence  being  of  such  a  character  as  to 
require  a  grade  of  eighty  feet  per  mile  for  over  ten  miles ;  while 
by  the  present  route  of  the  road,  the  greatest  elevation  east  of  the 
Connecticut  is  but  1,062  feet,  the  passage  of  the  general  summit, 
at  Island  Pond,  1,176  feet,  and  the  heaviest  grade  but  sixty  feet  to 
the  mile.  The  axis  of  the  elevation  of  the  whole  peninsula  east 
of  Lake  Champlain  is  in  fact  north  of  the  Umbagog  Basin,  in 
which  general  summit  the  Connecticut,  the  Androscoggin,  the  Ken- 
nebec, the  Penobscot,  the  Chaudiere,  and  the  St.  Francis  Rivers 
take  their  rise.     The  general  level  of  this  region  is  between  2,000 


204  FARRAR'S  ILLUSTRATED  GUIDE. 

and  3,000  feet  above  the  ocean,  and  its  dominant  peaks  of  the 
Camel's  Rump  and  Aziscohos  Mountains  vie  in  their  winter  dress 
with  the  white  summit  of  their  more  southern  neighbor.  Mount 
Washington. 

Leaving  Bryant's  Pond,  we  soon  strike  the  Alder  Stream,  fol- 
lowing it  down  to  the  main  Androscoggin  River,  a  distance  of 
eight  miles,  nature  unrolling  for  our  delight  a  panorama  of  moun- 
tain scenery  that  holds  our  close  attention,  until  our  arrival  at 
Locke's  Mills,  si.xty-five  miles  from  Portland,  a  village  possess- 
ing no  particular  interest.  High  hills  and  lofty  ridges  surround 
us  as  we  leave  the  station ;  but  in  a  short  time  we  emerge  from  the 
rugged  heights  so  close  at  hand,  coming  out  on  a  lovely  intervale 
of  the  Androscoggin,  presenting  some  of  the  finest  landscape 
views  the  road  commands,  and  stop  at  Bethel,  seventy  miles 
from  Portland,  another  point  of  departure  for  the  celebrated 
ANDROscoGGrN  Lakes.  Bethel  is  also  well  known  as  a  beautiful 
and  popular  summer  resort.  A  mail-stage  is  run  from  Bethel 
to  the  new  Lakeside  Hotel,  at  the  foot  of  Lake  Umbagoo,  in 
CiM BRIDGE,  N.H.,  daily,  excepting  Sunday.  It  leaves  the  hotels 
each  morning  at  eight  o'clock.  A  special  stage,  driven  by  Mr. 
Lane,  also  connects  with  the  afternoon  train,  and  runs  daily 
when  there  arc  passengers.  The  road  runs  through  the  celebrated 
Grafton  Notch,  introducing  the  tourist  to  some  of  the  wildest 
mountain  scenery  in  New  England.  Connection  is  made  at  Lake 
Umbagoq  with  steamer  Parmachenee,  and  parties  visiting  the 
Magalloway  River  and  Parmachenee  Lake  usually  go  by  this 
route.  A  full  description  of  this  route  is  given  in  Chapter  III. 
Bethel  is  a  very  attractive  place  in  summer,  and  is  annually  visited 
by  a  large  number  of  strapgers.  The  village  known  as  ' '  Bethel 
Hill  "  sits  on  a  commanding  height  west  of  the  railroad  depot.  It 
has  several  hotels,  the  Bethel  House  being  the  largest,  and  The 
Elms,  second  in  size. 

Again  we  are  speeding  up  the  Androscoggin  Valley,  scenes  of 
wild  grandeur  and  romantic  beauty  meeting  the  eye  on  every  side, 
a  short  ride  bringing  us  to  "West  Bethel,  a  station  of  but  little 
importance,  seventy-four  miles  from  Portland.  A  short  distance 
beyond  here  the  train  passes  over  Pleasant  River  bridge,  and 
about  a  mile  farther  on  you  obtain  a  fine  view,  far  up  the  valley,  of 
Mounts  Jefferson  and  Adams,  lifting  their  conical  summits  over 


Wild  River  Bkidge,  Grand  Trunk  Railway. 


206  FARRAR'S  ILLUSTRATED  GUIDE  TO 

the  shadowy  ridges  of  Moiint  Moriah.  Five  miles  from  West 
Bethel  we  cross  Wild  River,  over  a  bridge  two  hundred  and  fifty 
feet  in  length.     From  an  old  handbook  of  travel  we  quote  :  — 

"  This  river  is  a  child  of  the  mountains,  —  at  times  fierce,  impet- 
uous, and  shadowy  as  the  storms  that  howl  around  the  bald  heads 
of  its  parents,  and  bearing  down  everything  that  comes  in  its  path ; 
then,  again,  when  subdued  by  long  summer  calms,  murmuring 
gently  in  consonance  with  the  breezy  rustle  of  the  trees  whose 
branches  droop  over  it.  An  hour's  time  may  swell  it  into  a  head- 
long current;  an  hour  may  reduce  it  to  a  brook  that  a  child  might 
ford  without  fear. 

"This  vicinity  is  rife  with  legends  of  the  Indian  wars.  One  of 
the  last  acts  of  the  aborigines,  ere  their  strength  was  forever 
broken,  was  an  onset  on  the  defenceless  village  of  Bethel,  made 
by  a  party  of  the  St.  Francis  tribe,  who  had  followed  down  the 
State  line  from  Canada.  They  carried  away  captive  a  man  named 
Pettengill,  another  named  Sager,  and  two  by  the  name  of  Clarke. 

"Pettengill  and  one  of  the  Clarkes,  after  proceeding  a  few 
miles,  were  unable,  through  lameness,  to  go  on,  and  the  savages 
finally  consented  to  their  return,  advising  them  to  keep  to  the 
same  trail  they  had  followed  up,  pretending  that  there  were  hos- 
tile scouts  on  all  others.  Clarke,  who  was  well  acquainted  with 
the  Indian  character,  suspected  treachery  in  this  apparent  solici- 
tude for  their  safety,  and  as  soon  as  he  was  out  of  sight  struck 
into  the  woods,  and,  swimming  the  Androscoggin,  passed  down  the 
opposite  side  with  safety.  During  his  lonely  tramp  lie  heard  the 
report  of  the  gun  which  proved  the  death-note  of  his  friend,  who, 
taking  the  path  designated,  was  followed  back  by  the  savages  and 
shot  dead.  The  mutilated  body  of  poor  Pettengill  was  subse- 
quently found,  and  buried  on  the  bank  of  the  Wild  River,  just  by 
the  bridge." 

Beyond  the  bridge  the  railroad  is  almost  closed  in  on  either 
hand  by  rude  cliffs  towering  many  feet  heavenwards.  The  An- 
droscoggin River  is  still  to  be  seen  on  our  right,  turning  and 
twisting  through  the  narrow  strip  of  intervale  between  the  rail- 
road and  base  of  the  mountains.  This  land,  although  subject  to 
overflow  by  the  spring  freshets,  is  all  cultivated,  and  yields  good 
crops.  We  now  reach  Gilead,  eighty  miles  from  Portland,  and 
frith  but  a  moment's  halt  dash  on.     A  mile  or  more  above  this 


THE  ANDROSCOGGIN  LAICES.  207 

station  the  track  crosses  the  boundary  between  Maine  and  New 
Hampshire.  Here  bidding  farewell  to  the  Pine  Tree  State,  we 
soon  find  ourselves  at  Shelburne,  eighty-six  miles  from  Port- 
land. And  now  the  mountains  grow  higher  and  still  more 
rugged,  and  a  short  ride  brings  us  within  view  of  the  lofty  sum- 
mits of  Mounts  Washington,  Jefferson,  and  Adams,  that  burst 
upon  our  sight  from  behind  a  wooded  ridge  of  Mount  Moriah. 
For  the  next  few  miles,  till  we  arrive  within  a  short  distance  of 
the  depot  at  Gorham,  these  mighty  peaks  remain  constantly  in 
view.  Just  after  leaving  the  Slielburnc  station,  the  cars  pass 
near  a  high  bluff,  called  Granny  Htakbird's  Ledge.  An  im- 
mense granite  boulder,  many  tliousand  tons  in  weight,  a  great 
portion  of  which  has  been  blown  to  pieces  and  used  in  the  con- 
struction of  the  railroad,  formerly  rested  on  a  shelf  of  the  ledge. 
Under  this  rock,  it  is  said,  an  aged  matron,  named  Starbird, 
who  supplied  the  place  of  physician  to  the  section,  long  time  ago, 
found  refuge  during  one  of  the  wildest  storms  that  ever  smote 
the  mountains.  She  was  on  her  way  on  horseback,  alone,  to  visit 
a  patient,  where  her  presence  was  thought  to  be  indispensable 
(so  the  story  goes),  when  night  and  storm  overtook  her;  bewil- 
dered by  the  pelting  rain,  she  was  glad  to  avail  herself  of  such 
shelter  as  the  rock  could  afford.  House  there  was  none  for 
miles,  and  here  she  remained  cowering  all  the  long  night  with  a 
fearful  chorus  confusing  her  ear,  —  the  rushing  of  the  great  rain 
through  the  darkness,  the  A-oice  of  the  countless  streams  that 
flooded  every  cliff  and  ravine,  the  wail  of  the  great  trees  on  the 
ridges  as  they  writhed  and  struggled  and  swayed  in  the  merciless 
grasp  of  the  gale,  and  the  oft-repeated  howl  of  the  shivering 
wolf  driven  from  his  lair  by  the  incursions  of  the  storm,  com- 
mingled with  the  hoarse  boom  of  the  swollen  river  that  made 
the  very  earth  tremble.  The  laggard  morning  broke  at  last  above 
the  hills,  but  it  brought  no  cheer  to  that  "  weary  auld  matron." 
Many  a  noble  forest-giant  lay  shattered  on  the  acclivities  about 
her;  the  torrents  still  poured  their  turbid  floods,  and,  filling  the 
whole  valley  like  a  sea,  the  river  swept  onward,  grinding  and 
crashing,  noisy  and  tumultuous,  witli  its  debris  of  trees  and  tim- 
ber, gravel  and  rocks;  nor  was  it  till  noon,  when  tlie  clouds  re- 
tired to  tlie  higher  peaks,  the  sun  slione  out,  and   the  streams 


208  FARRAR'S  ILLUSTRATED  GUIDE. 

began  to  fall  as  suddenly  as  they  had  risen,  that  she  was  able  to 
resume  her  journey. 

Skirting  the  base  of  Mount  Moriah,  with  the  silvery  river  on 
our  right,  a  curve  in  the  road  suddenly  brings  us  in  sight  of  the 
station,  and  the  train  stops  at  GonnAU,  ninety-one  miles  from 
Portland.  At  this  place  passengers  en  route  for  the  "White 
Mountains  leave  the  train,  and  proceed  by  stage  to  the  Glen 
House,  eight  miles  distant,  at  the  foot  of  Mount  Washington. 
A  fine  new  hotel,  the  Alpine  Hofse,  was  built  during  1878  by 
the  Railroad  Company,  directly  opposite  the  depot.  It  will 
accommodate  about  one  hundred  people  comfortably,  and  the 
rooms  are  all  very  pleasant.  The  table  in  summer  is  furnished 
with  all  the  delicacies  of  the  season.  It  occupies  the  same  site 
as  the  old  hotel  of  that  name  which  was  destroyed  by  fire  a  few 
years  ago.  The  new  house  is  a  great  improvement  over  the  old 
one,  as  will'be  seen  by  our  engraving.  It  has  been  leased  for  a 
term  of  years  by  G.  D.  Stratton,  Esq.,  who  tlioroughiy  under- 
stands the  art  of  hotel-keeping,  and  who  can  give  satisfaction  to 
the  public,  if  any  man  can.  Gorliam,  situated  as  it  is  in  the 
heart  of  the  mountains,  is  a  delightful  place  to  spend  the  sum- 
mer in,  and  there  are  many  attractive  places  of  interest  and  fine 
drives  in  its  vicinity,  A  well-stocked  stable  is  connected  with 
the  Alpine,  and  parties  can  procure  teams  at  any  time.  Mount 
Hayes,  on  the  right  of  the  railroad,  is  one  of  the  finest  mountains 
in  the  vicinity  of  Gorham,  and  its  ascent  from  the  village  is 
comparatively  easy.  A  fine  view  of  Mount  Carter,  the  Imp,  and 
Mount  Moriah  is  to  be  obtained  from  Gorliam.  The  "Mascot" 
silver  mine,  located  on  the  side  of  Mount  Hayes,  is  one  of  the 
attractions  for  summer  tourists,  most  of  whom  pay  it  a  visit. 
The  main  entrance  is  in  sight  from  tlie  right-hand  side  of  the 
train. 

Leaving  the  depot,  the  road  crosses  Moose  River,  about  a  mile 
above,  and  soon  after  commences  the  long  grade,  overcoming  the 
summit  between  the  Androscoggin  and  Connecticut  Rivers.  In 
the  region  of  Berlin  Falls  the  river  descends  two  hundred  and 
thirty  feet  in  a  distance  of  two  miles.  At  this  point  the  Andros- 
coggin River  could  be  easily  turned  into  the  Connecticut,  the 
Upper  Ammonoosuc,  an  important  tributary  of  that  river,  taking 
its  rise  within  a  short  distance  of  the  Androscoggin,  and  descend- 


210  FARRAR'S  ILLUSTRATED   GUIDE  TO 

ing  thence  over  one  hundred  and  ninety  feet  into  the  Connecticut 
Valley  at  Groveton.  Reaching  the  Bkrlin  Falls  station,  ninety- 
seven  miles  from  Portland,  the  train  stops  again.  This  is  a  lum- 
bering village  of  considerable  importance  and  rapid  growth  ;  the 
mills  of  the  Berlin  Mills  Company  of  Portland  are  situated  on 
the  bank  of  the  Androscoggin  River,  a  mile  or  more  from  the 
depot.  A  branch  track  runs  from  the  road  near  the  station 
directly  to  their  mills,  necessitated  by  the  enormous  quantity  of 
lumber  that  they  annually  send  over  the  road  to  their  wharves  in 
Portland,  twenty  car-loads  per  day  being  the  average  number  for 
each  day  except  Sundays.  Sawed  and  planed  lumber  of  every 
description  is  manufactured  here,  and  in  the  busy  season  the  mills 
are  run  night  and  day,  two  gangs  of  men  being  employed.  This 
industry  furnishes  labor  to  a  large  number  of  men,  and  the  Com- 
pany have  a  store  and  boarding-house  of  their  own  near  the  mills. 

The  village  is  a  charming  place  to  stop  in  summer,  and  one  of 
the  finest  views  of  the  White  Mountains  to  be  obtained  in  any 
direction  may  be  had  from  the  road  near  the  Berlin  Company's 
store.  In  1877  a  new  miil  was  erected  here  for  the  manufacture 
of  paper  pulp,  from  poplar,  spruce,  etc. ,  and  a  great  deal  of 
business  is  done  in  it.  The  process  of  manufacturing  the  pulp 
is  a  very  interesting  one ;  but  we  cannot  take  simce  here  to 
describe  it. 

A  short  distance  below  the  mills  are  the  picturesque  rapids 
known  as  the  Berlin  Falls.  Here  the  entire  volume  of  the 
Androscoggin  River  pours  through  a  rocky  defile  about  fifty  feet 
in  width, — descending  in  the  space  of  a  hundred  yards  nearly 
twice  as  many  feet.  In  its  passage  from  the  lakes  it  receives  the 
waters  of  the  Diamond,  Magalloway,  and  Clear  Rivers,  besides 
several  streams  of  minor  importance,  so  that  at  this  point  it  is 
scarcely  inferior  in  volume  to  the  Connecticut  at  Groveton. 
Seething  and  plunging,  and  torturing  into  billows  of  snowy  foam, 
it  rushes  down  the  narrow  race,  — 

;  "  Rapid  as  the  light, 

The  flashing  mass  foams,  shaking  the  abyss," 

presenting  a  picture  at  once  grand  and  romantic,  and  on  which 
the  eye  of  an  artist  would  love  to  linger.     From  the  wooden  foot- 


THE   ANDllOSCOGGIN  LAKES.  211 

bridge  thrown  across  the  chasm  one  may  obtain  a  fine  view,  not 
only  of  the  falls,  but  up  and  down  the  river. 

Persons  lingering  in  this  vicinity  will  find  the  Cascade  House, 
under  the  charge  of  Mr.  H.  F.  Marston,  an  agreeable  place  to 
stop  at.  The  trout-fishing  about  the  village  is  also  very  good. 
The  Alpine  Cascade,  the  Jasper  Cave,  and  the  summit  of  Mount 
Forest,  are  usually  visited  by  tourists  stopping  at  Berlin.  No  more 
pleasant  drive  can  be  taken  in  New  England  than  from  the  village 
of  Berlin  Falls  to  Gorham,  a  distance  of  six  miles,  the  road  fol- 
loAving  the  river  the  whole  way. 

Again  in  motion,  we  find  that  a  short  distance  above  Berlin 
Falls  station  the  road  skirts  Dead  River  Pond,  then  striking  the 
valley  of  the  Upper  Ammonoosuc,  follows  it  down  (frequently 
crossing  that  erratic  stream)  to  the  Connecticut.  The  next 
stopping-place  is  Milan,  one  hundred  and  four  miles  from  Port- 
land. There  is  nothing  of  special  atti'action  here,  and  we  rattle 
on  to  West  Milan,  another  unimportant  station,  one  hundred 
and  nine  miles  from  Portland,  and  Stakk,  one  hundred  and 
fifteen  miles  from  Portland.  A  mile  or  so  from  hero  we  pass  by 
a  tremendous  circular  precipice,  called  the  Devil's  Slide,  whose 
perpendicular  walls,  shattered  and  torn  apparently  with  some 
mighty  convulsion,  rise  to  the  height  of  five  or  six  hundred  feet. 
The  Indians,  in  their  mythology,  peopled  all  these  mountain 
regions  Midi  invisible  spirits,  who  controlled  the  winds  and  storms, 
and  in  their  quarrels  hurled  the  gleaming  thunder-bolts  at  each 
other,  the  effects  of  which  were  seen  in  the  splintered  trees  and 
shivered  rocks ;  and  they  have  a  tradition  that  in  a  remote  age  a 
huge  mountain  barred  the  valley  where  now  the  railroad  passes, 
and  that  on  a  time  when  the  heavens  were  convulsed,  the  earth 
reeling,  and  the  atmosphere  blazing  with  the  terrible  warfare  of 
these  invisible  powers,  one  half  of  the  mountain  sank  down  into 
the  bowels  of  the  earth,  leaving  the  precipitous  sides  of  the  other 
bare  and  shattered,  as  they  have  remained  to  the  present  day. 
Just  beyond  this  locality  you  open  on  a  fine  view,  off  to  the 
right  of  those  remarkable  twin  mountains,  the  Stratford  Peaks, — 
generally  considered  to  be  the  most  symmetrical  elevations  of  the 
whole  mountain  region.  Standing  aside  from  the  dark  mountain 
ridges  which  swing  away  northerly,  their  white  cones  clearly 
defined,  the  tourist  cannot  mistake  them,  from  whatever  point 


THE  ANDEOSCOGGIN  LAKES.  213 

viewed ;  they  are  the  admiration  of  all  who  behold  tliem.  Having 
these  peaks  in  sight  iilraost  constantly  for  six  miles,  we  next  find 
ourselves  at  Groveton,  one  hundred  and  twenty-two  miles  from 
Portland.  This  is  quite  a  pretty  village,  and  opposite  the  railroad 
depot  will  be  found  the  Melchek  House,  a  good  hotel,  and  a 
pleasant  place  to  spend  a  few  weeks.  The  scenery  in  the  vicinity 
of  the  hotel  is  very  fine,  and  teams  may  be  hired  at  the  hotel  by 
those  who  wish  to  enjoy  the  beautiful  drives.  Half  a  mile  above 
here  is  a  station  known  as  Groveton  Junction,  the  terminus  in 
this  direction  of  the  Boston,  Concord,  and  Montreal  Kailroad, 
whose  trains  connect  with  those  of  the  Grand  Trunk. 

Leaving  the  junction  we  move  onward  again,  the  scenery  still 
occupying  our  attention,  and  make  short  stops  at  two  unimportant 
stations,  accommodating  the  farmers  in  the  vicinity.  The  first  of 
these,  Stratford  Hollow,  is  one  hundred  and  twenty-seven 
miles  from  Portland;  and  the  second,  Beattie's,  one  himdred  and 
thirty  miles  from  Portland.  Passing  on  from  the  last-named,  a 
short  ride  brings  us  to  North  Stratford,  one  hundred  and 
thirty-four  miles  from  Portland,  lying  on  the  eastern  bank  of  the 
Connecticut  Eiver ;  and  here  we  leave  the  railroad  and  continue 
our  journey  by  stage.  There  are  two  hotels  near  the  depot,  where 
the  tourist  can  procure  a  good  supper,  the  Willard  House, 
opposite  the  railroad,  being  the  most  popular.  This  house,  under 
the  management  of  Mr.  Geo.  Hilliard,  is  well  known  to  the 
traveling  public ;  it  has  an  excellent  livery-stable  connected  with 
it,  where  teams  may  be  hired  at  reasonable  prices.  The  stage 
leaves  for  Colebrook,  thirteen  miles  distant,  as  soon  as  the  mails 
and  passengers  are  ready.  The  road  follows  the  east  side  of  the 
Connecticut  River  the  entire  distance,  the  stream  favoring  us  with 
many  charming  views,  as  it  is  in  sight  the  most  of  the  way.  As 
we  ride  up  the  valley  our  attention  is  claimed  by  a  lofty  peak  some 
distance  ahead,  which  pops  into  view  every  now  and  then  as  the 
stage  follows  the  twists  and  turns  of  the  road.  This  is  Mount 
MoNADNOCK,  situated  on  the  Vermont  side  of  the  river,  directly 
opposite  Colebrook,  whose  summit  commands  views  both  up  and 
down  the  valley  of  the  Connecticut  for  many  miles.  Every  visitor 
to  Colebrook  should  be  sure  to  make  its  ascent.  Arriving  at  Cole- 
brook, the  stage  leaves  us  at  the  Parsons  House,  and  we  receive 
a  pleasant  greeting  from  mine  host  Bailey,  who  has  the  happy 


214  FARRAR'S  ILLUSTRATED  GUIDE  TO 

faculty  of  making  his  guests  feel  at  home.  There  are  many 
beautiful  drives  in  the  vicinity  of  Colebrook,  and  teams  may  be 
hired  of  Mr.  Bailey.  If  you  are  in  a  hurry  and  wish  to  push  on 
to  the  lakes,  in  the  morning  you  take  a  seat  in  one  of  Mr.  Bailey's 
fine  Concord  wagons,  and  are  driven  to  Errol  Dam,  wliere  you 
connect  with  the  steamer  Parmachenee  for  the  Middle  Dam,  on 
Lake  Welokennebacook.  Your  route  lies  through  the  cele- 
brated DixviLLE  Notch,  the  most  romantic  mountain-pass  in  New 
England.  This  is  ten  miles  distant  from  the  Parsons  House,  and 
there  is  a  hotel  here  known  as  the  Dix  House,  pleasantly  located, 
where  people  who  wish  to  take  leisure  to  examine  the  many  won- 
ders of  this  pass  may  stop.  Mr.  George  Parsons  is  the  proprietor 
of  the  house,  and  those  stopping  licre  will  find  excellent  ac- 
commodations. Mr.  Parsons  is  also  proprietor  of  the  mail-stage 
line  between  Colebrook  and  Errol  Dam.  His  stages  leave  the 
hotels  in  Colebrook  every  Monday,  Wednesday,  and  Friday 
morning,  at  nine  o'clock  and  passing  through  the  Notch  reach 
Errol  Dam  at  3.00  P.M.,  connecting  with  the  steamers  on  Um- 
bagog  Lake,  lleturning  stages  leave  the  boat  landing  at  11.00 
A.M.,  on  Tuesdays,  Thursdays,  and  Saturdays,  for  Dixville 
Notch   and  Colebrook. 

Dixville  Notch  is  an  immense  chasm  dividing  the  mountain- 
range  down  to  its  foundation,  whose  precipitous  ridges  rival  in 
wildness  and  sublimity  the  White  Mountain  Notch.  The  serrated 
cliffs  of  mica-slate  on  either  hand  shoot  upward  in  clean  and 
sharply  defined  pinnacles  and  lances,  to  the  height  of  a  thousand 
feet,  reminding  one  of  the  turrets  and  minarets  of  Saracenic 
palaces.  Here  and  there  along  its  walls,  on  some  knotty  spur, 
or  in  some  deep  fissure,  cluster  a  few  spruces  and  white  birches, 
forlorn  hopes  of  vegetation,  as  it  were,  struggling  against  the 
sliding  avalanche  and  almost  invulnerable  sterility ;  and  the 
bottom  of  the  defile  is  encumbered  with  shattered  rocks  and  the 
debris  from  the  bristling  crags  above.  The  locality  is  indeed  a 
second  Arabia  Petraea,  where  solitude  has  an  abiding-place.  A 
never-ceasing  gale  howls  its  mournful  anthems  among  its  sharp 
ledges,  and  tortured  fountains  winding  through  secret  glens  send 
out  a  gurgle  that  seems  ominous  of  evil.  Occasionally  some 
huge  fragment  of  rock,  loosened  from  the  mountain  by  the  frost 
or  storm,  comes  tearing  down  to  the  bottom  of  the  abyss,  awaken- 


THE   ANDROSCOGGIN   LAKES. 


215 


ing  solemn  echoes  that  sound  like  the  wail  of  some  lost  spirit. 
Passing  through  the  Notch  from  Colebrook,  the  celebrated  profile 
of  the  "  Old  Man  "  is  on  the  riglit  and  Pulpit  Kock  on  the  left. 
From  the  Notch  the  road  lies  over  the  Clear  Stream  meadows, 
and  is  level  and  free  from  stones  the  rest  of  the  distance,  eleven 
miles,  to  the  steamboat  landing  at  Errol  Dam.  From  the  dam 
the  routes  are  sufficiently  described  in  other  j  arts  of  the  book. 


-^£^-. 


J=0i^^?^£^^C-^f^^^ 


CHAPTER  XVII. 


Parmacfjeitce  Hake,  anti  tfje  JHagallolnag  i^tber. 

Routes      from      Boston,     Expense,      Scenery,      Fishing, 
Hunting,     etc. 


PORTSMEN  visiting  this  lake  have  a  choice 
of  routes  during  the  first  half  of  the  trip. 
Fi'om  Boston  to  Portland  by  either  route 
previously  described.  At  Portland  take 
the  cars  on  the  Grand  Trunk  Railroad  to 
Bryant's  Pond;  thence  via  Andover  by 
stage,  buckboard,  and  boat  to  the  Midulk 
Dam:  buckboard  across  the  "carry/'  to  Sundav  Cove,  where 
you  take  the  steamer;  thence  across  Lake  Uaibagog,  down  the 
Androscoggin,  and  up  the  Magai.loway  Rivkk. 

Second  Route.  This  is  the  more  direct,  and  three-quarters  of 
the  visitors  to  Parmachenee  go  this  way.  Leave  the  Grand 
Trunk  Railway  at  Bethel;  thence  by  stage  through  Gkafton 
Notch  to  the  Lakeside  Hotel,  at  the  foot  of  Umbagog  Lake, 
in  Cambridge,  N.H.  ;  then  by  steamer  across  Lake  Umbagog, 
down  the  Androscoggin,  and  up  the  Magalloway  River. 

Third  Route.  Leave  the  Grand  Trunk  Railway  at  Gorham, 
or  Berlin  Falls  ;  thence  by  stage  up  the  beautiful  and  romantic 
valley  of  the  Androscoggin  River  to  Errol  Dam,  where  connec- 
tion is  made  with  tlie  steamers  of  the  Richard.son-Rangeley 
Lakes  Transportation  Company,  and  thence  onward  up  the 
Androscoggin  and  Magalloway  Rivers. 

Fourth  Route.     Leave  the  railroad  at  North  Stratford,  and 
proceed  to  Ehrol  Dam  rin  CoLicmtooK  and  Dlwille  Notch.  At 
the  dam  connection  is  made  with  steamers  Diamond  or  Parma- 
chenee for  all  points  above. 
(217) ^ 


218  FARRAR'S   ILLUSTRATED   GUIDE  TO 

The  distance  from  L\kbsidb,  Cambbidge,  N.H.,  at  the  foot  of 
Umbagoo  Lake,  to  Parmachenee  Lake,  as  traveled,  is  about 
sixty  miles,  and  the  steamer  will  carry  you  to  the  Lower  Land- 
ing, or  the  Berlin  Mills  House,  according  to  the  height  of  the 
river.  The  steamers  of  the  Richardson-Rangelet  Lakes 
Transportation  Company  run  up  the  Mag  alloway  River  daily, 
except  Sunday,  from  the  time  the  ice  goes  out,  which  is  generally 
about  the  middle  of  May,  to  about  the  middle  of  October,  except 
occasionally  a  day  or  two  through  May  or  June,  when  navigation 
is  obstructed  by  logs  in  the  rivers.  On  those  rare  occasions 
passengers  are  forwarded  by  team. 

As  the  scenery  going  up  Umbagoo  Lake  has  been  described  in 
the  trip  to  Middle  Dam,  we  will  commence  at  Sunday  Cove,  and 
continue  it  from  that  point.  Leaving  the  cove,  you  have  a  fine 
view  of  Mt.  Dustan,  and  other  peaks  along  the  Magalloway 
River.  The  distance  from  the  head  of  Sunday  Cove  to  Errol 
Dam  is  ten  miles.  Passing  Eagle  Point  you  enter  the  lake  and 
head  south.  From  here  until  you  enter  the  river  you  have  a  fine 
view  of  mountain  towering  above  mountain,  the  lake  being  en- 
tirely surrounded  by  them.  Saddleback,  Speckled,  and  the 
White  Mountains  are  the  most  conspicuous,  the  two  first  lying 
off  to  the  south-east,  the  latter  in  the  south-west. 

If  the  water  is  high  the  steamer  runs  across  what  is  known  as  the 
"  Richardson  Carry,"  on  meadow  land,  bare  at  low  water.  When 
the  gates  are  shut  at  Errol  Dam  there  are  about  seven  feet  of  water 
on  this  carry.  If  the  water  is  low  the  boat  continues  down  the  lake 
until  opposite  "Glassby  Cove,"  when  it  enters  the  river  through 
the  regular  outlet.  The  view  from  the  outlet  looking  south-east  is 
one  of  the  finest  in  the  State,  Saddleback  and  Speckled  Moun- 
tains appearing  at  their  best  from  this  point.  The  farms  at  the 
foot  of  the  lake,  and  East  B  Hill,  also  lie  spread  out  before  you. 
To  the  south  the  Hampshire  Hills  and  the  town  of  Cambridge 
are  seen.  West  lies  Errol  Mountain,  and  other  sightly  peaks, 
and  to  the  north,  Mount  Dustan  and  Aziscohos.  The  land  about 
the  outlet  is  very  low,  and  was  once  thickly  wooded ;  but  the 
rise  of  the  water  has  destroyed  all  the  forest,  and  only  a  few  old 
stumps  and  picturesque  dead  trees  remain.  The  entrance  to  the 
river  is  very  blind,  and  strangers  might  hunt  for  hours,  as  indeed 
they  often  have,  without  finding  it.     This  is  a  great  locality  for 


THE   ANDROSCOGGIN  LAKES.  219 

ducks,  and  through  September  and  October  a  large  number  are  shot 
here.  The  most  common  kinds  are  the  black,  coot,  wood,  whistler, 
and  sheldrake ;  eagles  and  fishhawks,  and  several  varieties  of 
marsh  birds,  are  also  found  here,  and  musk-rat,  mink,  and  otter, 
are  plenty. 

Following  the  crooked  channel  of  the  river,  which  in  the  six 
miles  between  the  lake  and  the  dam  makes  about  thirty  distinct 
turns,  you  have,  as  the  steamer  twists  about,  views  from  all  points 
of  the  compass.  From  about  the  middle  of  July  to  the  first  of 
October  the  sides  of  the  river  are  carpeted  with  water-lilies,  that 
present  a  beautiful  sight,  and  fill  the  air  with  their  delightful  odor. 
The  captain  of  the  steamer  is  accommodating,  and  often  stops  to 
gather  them  for  the  lady  passengers,  and  thus  thousands  are  carried 
away  each  year ;  but  the  next  only  sees  them  more  abundant. 

A  little  over  a  mile  from  the  lake  you  reach  the  turn  where  the 
steamer  enters  the  river  from  the  "Richardson  Carry,"  and  round- 
ing this  the  banks  of  the  river  gradually  rise  in  height,  and  you  are 
in  the  midst  of  a  forest,  made  up  of  nearly  all  the  trees  indigenous 
to  New  England.  When  you  first  begin  to  meet  the  live  forest,  on 
the  right-hand  side  of  the  river,  you  pass  Leonard  Pond,  a  good 
fishi:)g-ground.  A  half  mile  below  the  pond  you  pass  "  Moll's 
Can  y ,"  on  the  left-hand  side  of  the  river.  The  steamer  cuts  across 
this  at  high  water  when  going  directly  down  the  lake,  and  saves 
several  miles  of  navigation.  A  short  distance  farther  down  you 
pass  the  mouth  of  the  Magalloway,  which  enters  the  Andros- 
coGGiiT  on  the  right.  It  is  two  miles  from  the  lake.  Nothing  can 
be  more  beautiful  than  the  sail  on  the  Androscoggin  and  Magal- 
loway Rivers,  tlie  banks  on  each  side  heavily  wooded,  and 
many  of  the  trees  bending  gracefully  over  the  water,  the  dark 
green  of  the  fir  and  spruce  intermingled  with  the  lighter  tints  of 
the  birch,  maple,  and  elm.  Many  of  the  firs  are  covered  with 
long  trailing  moss,  giving  them  a  decidedly  romantic  appearance. 
Dead  trees,  veritable  monarchs  of  the  forest,  are  met  with  at  in- 
tervals standing  boldly  out  from  the  green  woods,  presenting,  with 
their  scraggy  limbs  and  bare  trunks,  a  bit  of  the  picturesque  that 
would  quickly  cause  an  artist  to  bring  foi;th  his  sketchbook. 

Half  a  mile  below  the  Magalloway  an  abrupt  turn  takes  you 
around"Quick  Water  Point,"  on  the  right-hand  side  of  the  stream. 
The  river  here  is  very  shoal  and  somewhat  rocky,   and  at  low 


Steamer  Diamond  ox  Cambridge  River,  Lake  Umbagog. 


THE   ANDROSCOGGIN   LAKES.  221 

water,  as  a  matter  of  precaution,  steam  is  shut  partially  off  for  a 
short  distance,  and  the  captain  takes  extra  care  to  keep  in  the 
narrow  channel.  This  is  the  only  bad  piece  of  navigation  between 
the  lake  and  the  dam,  althougli  a  lookout  is  always  kept  for 
"snags"  and  "  sawyers,"  that  are  more  or  less  plenty  in  all 
fresh-water  rivers.  While  there  is  a  strong  current  in  the  river, 
the  water  is  so  deep  that  it  is  not  perceptible  on  the  surface,  ex- 
cept at  "  Quick  Water  Point.  "  Both  of  the  rivers  preserve  a 
nearly  uniform  width  of  from  thirty  to  fifty  yards,  the  Magallo- 
WAY  being  not  only  the  narrowest,  but  the  most  serpentine. 

A  short  distance  below  the  point,  on  the  left-hand  side  of  the 
river,  we  pass  a  shallow  pond,  of  considerable  size,  considered  by 
the  guides  a  good  place  to  float  for  deer,  and  many  have  been 
shot  there.  Still  farther  down,  on  the  right-hand,  is  the  "Big 
Meadow,"  so  called,  and  at  the  mouth. of  the  inlet  near  the  head 
is  a  first-rate  place  for  pickerel.  A  mile  below  the  meadow  you 
reach  the  dam,  which  does  not  show  until  you  are  a  few  rods 
from  it.  The  steamer  lands  at  her  wharf,  beside  the  road,  on  the 
right  bank  of  the  river,  a  short  distance  above  the  dam.  The 
boat  arrives  here  at  half-past  ten,  and  leaves  at  eleven.  It  is  met 
each  day  by  the  stages  from  and  to  Berlin  Falls,  Gorham,  Dix- 
ville  Notch,  and  Colebrook,  and  by  Mr.  Bragg's  team,  belonging 
to  the  Errol  House,  situated  a  mile  from  the  steamboat  land- 
ing. 

There  are  several  buildings  around  the  dam,  all  belonging  to 
the  Union  Water  Power  Company,  of  Lewiston,  Me.,  consisting  of 
a  nice  two  story  and  a  half  dwelling-house,  barn,  storehouse, 
blacksmith-shop,  grist-mill,  and  boat-house.  In  the  half  hour 
that  you  stop  here  you  will  liave  time  to  inspect  the  dam  and 
buildings  if  you  wish.  Some  trout  are  taken  in  the  quick  water 
below  the  dam,  and  down  the  river  as  far  as  the  bridge. 

At  eleven  o'clock  the  steamer  whistles,  and,  casting  off,  you 
are  soon  running  up  the  Androscoggin,  retracing  your  course  as 
far  as  the  Magalloavay,  and  a  turn  of  the  wheel  to  port  carries 
you  into  the  river.  A  run  of  a  quarter  of  a  mile  in  a  straight  line, 
and  then  "Hard  a  starboard !"  and  you  whisk  around  a  sharp 
angle  to  tlie  right,  and  from  this  point  until  you  land  it  is  a 
steady  twist  and  turn.  The  scenery  of  this  river  is  unsurpassed 
by  any  in  New  England,  and  I  have  been  told,  by  people  who  have 


222  FARUAR'S   ILLUSTRATED    GUIDE  TO 

done  Florida  thoroughly,  that  it  was  superior  to  any  in  that  State. 
As  the  stream  narrows,  in  some  places  the  trees  almost  meet  over- 
head, and  one  can  reach  out  and  touch  them  as  the  steamer  passes 
swiftly  along.  For  the  first  ten  miles  from  the  dam  not  a  sign  of 
civilization  intrudes  upon  you,  and  gazing  at  the  heavily  timbered 
forests,  where  an  occasional  giant  pine  rears  its  lofty  head  far 
above  the  other  trees,  you  are  tempted  to  exclaim  with  Long- 
fellow,— 

"  This  U  the  forest  primeval." 

On  your  sail  you  will  see  the  brown  and  bald  eagles, — the  latter 
tlie  typical  American  bird, — spreading  their  huge  wings,  in  pursuit 
of  some  unlucky  fish-hawk,  who,  having  worked  hard  to  procure  a 
dinner,  is  now  destined  to  lose  it.  The  bald-headed  eagles  in  this 
country  are  the  largest  I  have  ever  seen,  and  they  have  been  shot 
and  measured  nine  feet  from  tip  to  tip  of  wing.  Tlicre  are  many 
small  ponds  lying  contiguous  to  the  river  on  both  sides  and  con- 
nected witii  it  by  short  streams,  that  are  often  filled  with  ducks, 
with  blue  lierons  stalking  near  them.  Deer,  bear,  caribou,  and 
moose,  are  occasionally  caught  sight  of  along  the  river,  as, 
frightened  by  the  steamer,  they  plunge  into  the  leafy  cover  of  the 
Avoods.  The  banks  of  the  stream  vary  in  height  from  two  to  eight 
feet,  according  to  tlie  number  of  gates  open  at  the  dam,  and  a 
good  cami)ing-spot  may  be  found  readily. 

About  four  miles  up  the  Magallowav  you  pass  some  rocks  on 
the  left  side,  then  make  a  sharp  turn  to  the  right.  Looking  back 
as  you  make  this  turn  you  obtain  the  most  romantic  and  pictu- 
resque view  on  the  river.  About  half  a  mile  of  the  stream  can  be 
seen,  in  some  places  the  trees  almost  meeting  overhead,  and  the 
silvery  lane  of  water  through  this  vista  of  living  green  presents 
a  picture  thct  you  will  not  soon  forget.  The  country  people  who 
go  up  and  down  this  beautiful  thoroughfare  seem  generally  to  care 
nothing  about  the  scenery ;  but  one  day,  when  coming  down  the 
river,  as  we  turned  this  bend,  an  old  fellow  on  the  boat  who  caught 
the  view  just  at  the  right  moment  was  for  an  instant  brouglit  to  a 
realizing  sense  of  the  beauties  of  nature,  and,  looking  at  me,  said, 
"  I  snum  now.  Mister,  if  that  aint  the  purtiest  sight  I  ever  saw." 

A  mile  above  here  you  pass  Pulpit  Rock,  or  the  "Devil's 
Pulpit,"  as  some  of  the  lumbermen  call  it, —  a  large  boulder  rising 


THE   ANDROSCOGGIN   LAKES.  223 

abruptly  from  the  water's  edge,  on  the  right-hand  side  of  the  river. 
Nearly  opposite  this,  in  the  middle  of  the  stream,  is  a  large  flat 
ledge,  that  the  steamer  is  obliged  to  give  a  wide  berth  to,  as  tlie 
rock  is  covered  by  water  part  of  the  time.  The  ground  beside 
Pulpit  Rock  is  a  favorite  camping-place,  and  there  are  but  few 
weeks  throughout  the  summer  season  when  there  are  not  one  or 
more  tents  pitched  there.  There  is  a  good  spring  a  few  rods  back 
in  the  woods,  and  plenty  of  fuel  handy. 

About  a  mile  above  here  the  river  makes  a  complete  turn  in  the 
shape  of  the  letter  U,  and  across  the  narrow  neck  of  land  a  canal 
has  been  cut,  through  which  we  pass,  making  a  saving  of  many 
rods  in  distance,  and  a  few  minutes  in  time.  Beyond  this  you 
pass  Bear  Bkook,  on  the  left,  spanned  by  a  wooden  bridge, —  the 
first  sign  of  civilization  you  have  met  since  leaving  the  dam.  A 
short  distance  above,  you  pass  Bottle  Brook,  also  on  the  left. 
There  are  a  great  many  rocks  at  the  mouth  of  this  brook,  and  the 
steamer  hugs  closely  to  the  right  bank  of  the  stream.  A  primitive 
log-house  stands  by  the  bank  of  the  brook,  the  first  dwelling  seen. 
It  was  built  for,  and  inhabited  by,  an  Indian  squaw  for  several 
years,  who  made  her  living  by  peddling  home-made  baskets  and 
medicines.     A  white  family  occupies  it  now. 

A  mile  above  you  reach  the  lower  landing,  on  the  right-hand 
side  of  the  river,  in  Went  worth's  Location,  N.H.  The  lower 
Magalloway  Settlement  extends  from  Bottle  Brook  to  about  two 
miles  above  the  lower  landing.  From  the  wharf  a  good  road  follows 
the  right  bank  of  the  Magalloway  to  the  Upper  Settlement,  and 
from  there  a  rougher  road  runs  to  the  head  of  Aziscohos  Falls, 
ending  at  Fred  Flint's  Camp.  From  the  top  of  a  high  hill  near  the 
steamboat  wharf  an  extensive  view  is  obtained  of  the  valley  both 
up  and  down  the  river.  Mount  Dustan,  which  we  have  seen  so 
many  times  on  our  way  up,  has  been  run  to  earth  at  last,  and  is  now 
directly  opposite  of  us  in  the  west.  Some  distance  north,  old 
Aziscohos  still  frowns  down  upon  us,  and  it  will  be  a  long  time 
before  we  altogether  lose  sight  of  this  gigantic  peak.  From  the 
wharf  to  the  Berlin  Mills  House  is  a  distance  by  land  of  two 
miles,  while  it  is  six  on  the  water.  A  team  from  the  liotel  meets 
the  boat  daily  at  low  water,  and  you  ride  up  to  the  house  to  dinner. 

Leaving  the  lower  landing,  the  boat  steams  on  up  the  river, 
the  scenery  increasing  in  beauty  and   sublimity  as  the  valley 


224  FARRAR'S   ILLUSTRATED   GUIDE  TO 

narrows.  Mounts  Ddstan  and  Aziscohos  are  dodging  around  you 
continually  now,  first  on  one  side  and  then  on  the  other,  while  the 
peculiarly  shaped  Diamond  Peaks,  some  miles  above,  occasionally 
put  in  an  appearance.  In  making  this  last  six  miles  there  is  one 
part  of  the  stream  so  crooked  that,  by  making  a  canal  across  a 
narrow  neqk  of  land  but  a  few  rods  wide  two  miles  of  navigation 
might  be  saved.  After  a  lialf  hour's  sail,  which  to  my  mind 
is  the  prettiest  part  of  the  route,  the  steamer  shoots  by  a  large 
cluster  of  boulders  in  the  middle  of  the  stream,  and  turning  sharply 
to  the  right  glides  in  to  the  bank,  and  ties  up  directly  oppo-ite  the 
Berlin  Mills  House.  A  crook  of  the  river  has  brougiit  us  into 
Maine  again,  the  farm  being  located  in  Township  5,  Range  1. 
The  baggage  is  unloaded  and  taken  up  to  the  hotel,  and  the  pas- 
sengers follow  it  and  go  in  to  dinner.  Taking  the  down-river  pas- 
sengers on  board,  the  steamer  salutes  you  with  a  whistle,  and  is  off, 
reaching  Erbol  Dam  at  half-past  three,  Sunday  Cove  at  half-past 
four,  and  Lakeside,  Cambridge,  at  the  foot  of  the  lake,  at  six 
o'clock. 

This  hotel  is  situated  on  what  is  called  the  Brown  Farm,  owned 
by  the  Berlin  Mills  Company,  and  stands  on  highland,  overlook- 
ing the  Magalloway  River  and  valley  for  several  miles.  It  has 
accommodations  for  about  thirty  people.  The  rooms  are  well 
furnished,  kept  neat  and  clean,  and  a  good  table  is  set  at  this  house. 
Mr.  and  Mrs.  Ciiarles  Lowe  have  charge  of  it,  and  have  always 
done  all  in  their  power  to  make  their  guests  feel  at  home.  The 
terms  are  §2.00  per  day.  The  fishing  in  the  vicinity  is  first-rate, 
there  being  plenty  of  both  trout  and  pickerel.  The  pickerel  are 
caught  on  the  Magalloway,  a  few  miles  down  the  river.  The 
trout  are  caught  on  the  Diamond  Rivers,  emptying  into  the  Ma- 
galloway about  a  mile  above  the  hotel.  Sturtevant  Pond,  but 
a  short  distance  from  the  hotel,  contains  trout,  and  a  small  pond  be- 
yond, empyting  into  Sturtevant,  is  full  of  the  smaller  brook  trout. 
Trout  Pond  and  the  Diajiond  Ponds,  near  the  head  of  the  Swift 
Diamond  River,  are  well  supplied  with  trout.  A  trip  to  Diamond 
Pond  necessitates  stopping  over  night ;  but  this  you  can  do  com- 
fortably, as  Mr.  Lowe  will  give  you  permission  to  occupy  the  com- 
fortable lumber  camps  there,  belonging  to  the  Berlin  Mills  Com- 
pany. If  you  wish  to  make  short  trips  on  the  Magalloway,  Mr. 
Lowe  has  boats  that  you  can  liiro  for  50  cents  per  day. 


THE  ANDROSCOGGIN  LAKES.  225 

Between  the  mouth  of  the  Diamond  and  the  head  of  the  Azis- 
coHos  Falls  is  a  strong  current,  there  being  rapids  most  of  the 
way.  There  is  good  trout-fishing  on  the  Falls.  There  is  good 
partridge-shooting  on  the  Brown  Farm,  and  larger  game  near  by, 
several  deer  having  been  shot  in  and  around  Sturtevant  Pond 
the  last  year  or  two. 

Mount  Dustan,  before  spoken  of,  is  a  prominent  landmark 
from  the  piazza  of  the  hotel,  its  sloping  sides  covered  with  a 
growth  of  dark  spruce,  giving  it  a  sombre  appearance.  Its  alti- 
tude is  2,575  feet  above  the  sea  level.  The  wild  and  irregular 
Diamond  Peaks,  above  Mount  Dustan,  on  the  same  side  of  the 
river,  also  make  a  fine  appearance  from  the  house. 

Due  north  the  great  white  peak  of  Aziscohos  —  the  highest 
mountain  in  this  vicinity,  and  one  of  the  highest  in  Maine  —  rises 
almost  to  the  snow  line.  We  have  before  spoken  of  it  as  furnish- 
ing a  magnificent  view  of  the  entire  lake  region,  and  some  tour- 
ists think  the  view  from  its  summit  superior  to  that  from  Mount 
Washington.  Its  ascent  from  the  hotel  is  quite  easy,  and  you  can 
now  ride  within  two  miles  of  the  top.  From  its  summit  over  one 
hundred  sheets  of  water  may  be  counted.  We  quote  here  from 
a  private  journal,  giving  a  good  idea  of  the  time  and  labor  .spent 
in  reaching  its  summit.     The  writer  says  :  — 

"  We  went  up  through  the  settlement  and  turned  off  from  the 
road  to  the  east,  passing  through  the  pastures ;  about  two  miles 
from  camp  we  entered  the  forest  and  commenced  the  ascent  of  the 
mountain.  The  path,  if  it  can  be  called  such,  is  made  by  spotting 
the  trees  (hewing  small  places  on  their  trunks  to  guide  travelers 
on  their  way)  ;  but  even  this  was  so  obscure  that  it  was  with  con- 
siderable difficulty  that  we  could  keep  the  trail.  The  distance 
from  tlie  commencement  of  the  ascent  to  the  summit  is  two  miles, 
much  of  it  being  very  steep,  making  tlie  task  of  climbing  it  by  no 
means  an  easy  one.  After  toiling  up  the  steep  path  awhile,  the 
light  suddenly  came  streaming  through  the  thick  forest,  and  we 
soon  came  out  from  among  the  trees  over  beautiful  beds  of  thick 
green  moss,  covering  liug%square  masses  of  granite  of  which  this 
mountain  is  composed.  Many  of  the  blocks  were  as  square  and  as 
straight  as  though  split  by  art.  The  quality  is  rather  coarse,  and 
the  color  almost  white.  There  were  also  largo  quantities  of  the 
little  snow-white  cranberries,  Avhicli  grow  so  plentifully  in  these 


226  FARRAR'S  ILLUSTRATED   GUIDE. 

northern  latitudes  among  the  mosa.  They  were  covered  with  fruit 
just  ripe,  and  of  delicious  flavor.  Passing  these  we  soon  reached 
the  easterly  summit,  which  is  the  highest.  The  mountain  is  cov- 
ered with  forest,  all  but  about  one  thousand  acres  of  the  summit, 
which  has  been  burned  over,  and  is  one  immense  blueberry  field, 
except  a  few  acres  of  the  top,  which  is  bare  and  rugged  granite. 
The  view  from  the  top  amply  repaid  us  for  the  labor  of  the  ascent, 
and  is,  I  think,  the  finest  I  ever  saw,  not  even  excepting  that  seen 
from  Mount  Washington.  Standing  on  the  extreme  peak  the  eye 
takes  in  the  whole  horizon.  Away  in  the  south  lies  Umbagog 
Lake  ;  a  little  farther  east,  Welokennebacook  and  Molechunk- 
AHCNK  Lakes  ;  over  beyond,  and  connecting  with  them,  is  the 
MoosELUCMAGUNTic  Lake,  with  two  large  and  densely  wooded 
islands  in  the  centre.  Still  farther  in  the  north-east  is  Oqdossoc 
Lake,  with  its  little  town  of  the  same  name  lying  on  the  hill-side 
beyond,  and  there  were  others  whose  names  I  could  not  ascertain. 
In  the  south  could  be  traced  the  course  of  the  beautiful  Magal- 
LOWAY,  which  sparkled  in  the  sunlight,  a  silver  ribbon,  as  it  wound 
its  circuitous  course  up  through  the  forest-clad  country  until  lost 
to  view  under  the  mountain.  Over  it  could  be  seen  Mount  Wash- 
ington,'and  the  whole  chain  of  the  White  Mountains,  towering  up 
against  the  southern  sky  like  a  gigantic  barrier  between  us  and 
the  country  beyond  them.  In  the  east  Eatahdin  lifted  his  lofty 
peak,  far  away  in  the  distance,  the  noble  rival  of  Mount  Washing- 
ton, and  but  five  hundred  feet  lower.  Between  us  and  that  could 
be  seen  the  great  basin  of  Moosehead  Lake,  but  we  were  not  high 
enough  to  see  the  water.  From  this  point  around  to  the  north  and 
west  is  one  vast  forest,  extending  as  far  as  the  eye  can  reach,  the 
horizon  being  bounded  by  mountains.  The  blueberries  were  just 
in  their  prime,  and  we  feasted  upon  them  until  we  could  eat  no 
longer.  They  were  of  very  large  size,  and  the  ground  was  blue 
with  them.  I  had  the  curiosity  to  measure  one,  and  found  it  to  be 
one  inch  and  three-fourths  in  circumference,  and  I  counted  twen- 
ty-seven large  and  fully  ripe  berries  in  one  cluster.  The  wind 
was  very  strong  and  high  on  the  summit,  and  we  built  a  large  fire 
in  order  to  keep  comfortable.  We  stopped  on  the  summit  over 
an  hour,  and  returned  to  camp  about  five  o'clock,  exceedingly 
pleased  with  our  first,  but  by  no  means  last,  excursion  to  the  sum- 
mit of  AZISCOHOS." 


The  Flume,  Dixvillk  Xotch,  N.H. 


228  FARRAR'S  ILLUSTRATED  GUIDE   TO 

Ladies  often  ascend  this  mountain,  the  path  having  been  much 
improved  in  the  last  two  years.  You  should  take  about  a  day  for 
the  excursion,  the  team  taking  you  to  the  foot  of  the  mountain, 
and  calling  for  you  in  the  afternoon.  Take  provisions  from  the 
hotel,  and  have  a  picnic  dinner  on  the  summit,  and  I  will  guaran- 
tee that  you  cannot  pass  a  pleasant  day  more  agreeably. 

During  the  summer  of  1882  officers  connected  with  the  U.S. 
Coast  Survey,  erected  a  wooden  beacon,  about  thirty  feet  high, 
on  the  highest  peak  of  Azisconos.  On  a  fiar  day  it  can  be  seen 
from  the  steamers  on  the  Androscoggin  Lakes. 

Near  this,  under  a  small  caini  of  stones,  a  covered  tin  box  is 
placed,  containing  records  and  notes  left  by  different  parties  who 
ascend  the  mountains.  Nearly  every  person  ascending  the  moun- 
tain contributes  to  this  journal,  and  it  forms  interesting  reading 
for  each  new-comer. 

When  you  are  ready  to  continue  to  Parraachenee,  Mr.  Lowe 
will  carry  you  to  the  head  of  Aziscohos  Falls,  a  distance  of  seven 
miles,  at  a  reasonable  price,  it  depending  on  the  number  of  the 
people  in  the  party,  and  the  amount  of  luggage  you  have  with 
you. 

The  ride  up  the  valley  is  pleasant,  the  road  being  excellent  un- 
til you  strike  the  carry.  The  river,  valley,  and  mountains  en- 
gross your  attention  and  you  obtain  many  charming  views.  Passing 
through  the  Upper  Settlement,  the  road  turns  to  the  right,  runs 
through  a  pasture,  and  then  enters  the  woods.  Leaving  the  last 
frame-house,  Clark's,  you  have  only  the  great  wilderness  before 
you,  dotted  with  an  occasional  camp.  The  pasture  is  the  extreme 
limit  of  the  cleared  land  on  the  river.  At  this  place  the  Magal- 
LowAY  falls  over  a  long  succession  of  ledges  down  the  ravine 
between  Aziscohos  and  Parker  Hill,  so  called.  The  entire 
length  of  the  fall  is  variously  estimated  at  from  two  hundred  to 
three  hundred  feet. 

As  you  go  up  through  the  pasture  there  is  a  good  view  of  the 
river  valley  below,  and  of  a  great  semicircular  mountain  to  the 
west  of  it,  cftUed  the  Halfmoon.  The  upper  end  of  the  falls 
where  you  come  out  of  the  carry  road  is  a  very  wild-looking 
place. 

The  stream,  black  as  ink  and  overhung  with  straggling  spruce, 
rolls  tumultuously  down  over  huge  stones.     The  roar  is  heavy 


THE   ANDROSCOGGIN  LAKES.  229 

and  continuous.  Some  of  the  "pitches"  show  a  perpendicular 
fall  of  twenty  feet  or  more.  In  one  of  these,  some  years  ago,  a 
lumberman  was  drowned.  .  His  name  {Jack  Ahram)  is  cut  in  a 
spruce  trunk  at  the  foot  of  the  pitch.  Whether  his  spirit  wanders 
about  the  spot  at  midnight  we  know  not,  although  strange  sights 
and  sounds  are  sometimes  seen  and  heard  there. 

At  the  head  of  the  Falls  near  the  dam  Mr.  H.  W.  Fickett  has  a 
nice  camp  for  the  accommodation  of  the  public.  This  will  enable 
parties  who  wish  to  stop  over  night  at  the  Falls  to  secure  com- 
fortable quarters.  His  rooms  and  beds  are  comfortable,  and  he 
sets  a  good  table.  As  you  will  not  arrive  hero  until  late  in  the 
afternoon,  if  you  have  come  through  from  the  steamer,  you  will 
do  well  to  stop  here  until  morning.  The  lady  in  charge  is  an 
excellent  cook  and  house-keeper,  and  will  take  good  care  of  you. 

He  also  keeps  boats  to  let,  and  can  guide  parties  to  good  fishing 
in  the  vicinity.  The  next  morning  you  procure  a  boat,  and  make 
a  fresh  start.  From  here  to  the  Little  Magalloway  is  thirty-three 
miles. 

Above  the  Falls  there  is  smooth  water  to  the  Narrows,  ten 
miles ;  the  river  averages  from  six  to  ten  rods  in  width.  It  is 
deep  and  black,  an  aspect  enhanced  by  the  fir  forest  on  either 
bank,  dark  green,  sombre,  and  profoundly  quiet.  The  most  no- 
ticeable feature  about  the  stream  is  its  silence.  The  current 
creeps  on  steadily.  If  you  stop  rowing,  it  drags  you  slowly  back. 
The  crooks  and  bends  are  numerous.  The  peaks  of  moderately 
high  mountains  on  both  sides  of  the  river  valley  are  from  time  to 
time  to  be  seen  over  the  fir-tops.  Aziscohos  is  now  before  you, 
and  then  behind,  according  to  the  crooks  and  turns  of  the  river; 
then  to  the  left  and  rignt.  A  tall,  dark  hill,  known  as  Emery's 
MiSERV,  plays  similar  tricks.  Beaver  Hill,  a  pine-clad  ridge  to 
the  east  of  the  valley,  is  also  noticeable. 

There  are  many  excellent  camping-places  to  be  met  with  along 
the  banks  of  the  river,  and  one  can  make  a  choice.  Wood  and 
water,  the  great  requisites  for  camp  life,  are  plenty  at  every  point. 

Ducks,  partridges,  and  other  game  arc  to  be  met  with  along  the 
river,  and,  taken  in  addition  to  the  trout,  will  keep  the  larder  will 
supplied. 

Two  miles  above  the  Falls  you  pass  Beaver  Brook  on  your 
right,  —  a  good  fishing  point.    A  half  hour  spent  here  will  give  you 


230  FARRAR'S   ILLUSTRATED   GUIDE  TO 

a  good  mess  of  trout.  The  next  fisliing-places  are  Parker  Hill 
Pond  Eddy,  four  miles  from  the  Fulls,  and  Bog  Brook,  which 
comes  in  on  the  left,  five  miles,  f  he  XxrtRowa  is  also  a  good 
point  for  fishing.  The  current  in  the  Narrows  is  very  swift, 
and  a  good  long  rope  is  a  handy  thing  to  have  with  you,  as  you 
can  tow  your  boat  up  by  walking  along  the  shore,  keeping  one  in 
the  boat  to  fend  off  from  the  bank.  The  stream  here  is  not  more 
than  twenty  feet  wide,  with  a  high  ledge  on  each  side,  and  through 
this  narrow  channel  the  current  runs  like  a  mill-sluice. 

Five  miles  above  the  Narrows  you  reach  Hunter's  Camp,  a 
good  fishing-point,  and  a  mile  beyond  this  you  pass  the  Lower 
Metalic  Pond,  a  pretty  little  expanse  opening  into  the  Magal- 
LOWAT  by  abroad  outlet  on  the  west  side.  There  are  two  Metalic 
Ponds.  The  upper  one  is  on  the  east  side  of  the  river,  and  is  not 
in  sight  from  it. 

Four  miles  farther  up,  and  you  emerge  from  the  evergreen 
forest,  and  reach  the  Meadows,  which  extend  for  twelve  miles 
along  the  banks,  and  are  of  tliemsehes  worth  a  visit.  Scattered 
over  this  land  are  some  of  the  finest  elm-trees  you  ever  saw. 
Through  the  Meadows  the  current  is  very  swift,  and  the  stream 
more  crooked,  if  possible,  than  below.  Round  wood-berries  are 
very  thick  in  this  locality,  and  it  is  asserted  by  men  who  have 
logged  in  this  region  in  winter  that  robins  often  pass  the  winter 
here,  living  on  the  berries.  The  Uppicr  Metalic  Pond  is  about 
half  way  through  the  Meadows.  There  is  good  fishing  near  both 
the  ponds,  and  at  each  end  of  the  Narrows. 

Leaving  the  Meadows  behind,  you  once  more  enter  the  fir 
woods,  and  soon  strike  a  rapid,  that,  although  not  difficult  to  pass, 
will  tell  on  your  muscles  by  the  time  yot  get  to  the  end  of  it. 

About  a  mile  above  this  rapid  are  the  "  great  rips,"  and  as  the 
banks  on  both  sides  are  very  unfavorable  for  a  tow-line,  the  best 
thing  you  can  do  is  to  wade  up  the  bed  of  the  stream,  and  tow 
your  boat  behind  you,  the  water  not  being  over  two  feet  deep. 
Our  illustration  at  the  end  of  the  chapter  gives  an  idea  of  the 
way  you  do  it. 

Within  a  thiid  of  a  mile  of  the  "  big  rips,"  a  small  brook  enters 
the  river  on  the  right-hand  side.  From  the  mouth  of  this  brook  a 
spotted  trail  runs  directly  to  Lincoln  Pond,  a  beautiful  sheet  of 
water  about  two  miles  long,  and  one  wide.     The  pond  is  about 


THE   ANDROSCOGGIN   LAKES.    .  231 

four  miles  from  the  Forks  of  the  Magalloway ;  it  is  surrounded 
entirely  by  heavy  forests,  and  the  locality  is  one  of  the  prettiest 
throughout  the  length  and  breadth  of  the  State,  and  is  very  attrac- 
tive to  either  tourists  or  sportsmen.  The  pond  is  well  stocked 
with  the  spotted  brook  trout,  running  in  weight  from  a  few  ounces 
to  several  pounds ;  bait-fishing  is  good  here  in  May  and  June,  and 
fly-fishing  the  balance  of  the  season.  Most  kinds  of  game  that 
inhabit  the  northern  woods  is  to  be  met  with  in  the  vicinity  of 
Lincoln  Pond,  and  the  larger  animals,  such  as  deer,  moose,  and 
caribou,  are  frequently  shot  each  year  upon  its  shores.  There  is 
a  camp  at  the  pond  that  sportsmen  can  u§e,  but  if  you  want  a 
boat,  and  you  will  find  one  very  handy  there,  you  will  have  to 
carry  one  in.  If  you  carry  a  tent,  and  prefer  living  in  it  to  living 
in  a  log  hut,  you  will  find  a  plenty  of  very  pleasant  camping  sites 
all  around  the  shores  of  this  lovely  little  sheet  of  water. 

A  hundred  rods  or  so  above  the  "big  rips,"  are  the  Forks,  the 
Little  Magalloway  flowing  into  the  main  stream  from  the 
northwest  at  this  point. 

The  carry  road  runs  from  the  main  river,  a  short  distance  above 
the  Forks  to  Lakk  Parmachenee,  a  distance  of  about  three  miles. 
The  road  terminates  at  the  foot  of  the  lake,  a  short  distance  west 
of  the  outlet,  and  from  this  spot  our  artist  made  the  admirable 
sketch  of  the  lake  shown  on  page  233. 

If  you  wish  to  use  your  boat  on  Parmachenee  Lake,  it  is  pos- 
sible to  get  as  far  as  the  dam  by  wading  in  the  stream,  and  drag- 
ging the  boat  in  the  shallow  places. 

In  crossing  the  carry,  about  half  a  mile  from  the  river,  on  the 
left  hand  side  of  the  road  you  pass  Sunday  Pond,  a  sheet  of 
water  covering  a  few  acres ;  this,  like  all  the  other  ponds  in  the 
vicinity  contains  trout.  Near  the  pond  is  an  unoccupied  camp, 
that  offers  temporary  shelter  to  the  camper. 

Mr.  John  Danforth,  i)roprietor  of  Camp  Caribou,  is  building  a 
wooden  railroad  from  Parmachenee  Lake  to  the  Cupsuptic  River. 
It  leaves  the  Parmachenee  side  from  the  mouth  of  Black  Cat 
Brook,  and,  when  completed,  will  end  at  the  head  of  steamboat 
navigation  on  the  Cupsuptic  River,  a  distance  of  fifteen  miles. 
Three  miles  are  already  finished,  and  the  work  will  be  continued 
as  fast  as  possible. 

It  is  unnecessary  for  parties  visiting  Parmachenee  Lake  to  carry 


232  FARRAR'S  ILLUSTRATED   GUIDE  TO 

stores  with  them,  unless  they  prefer  it,  as  they  can  buy  everything 
they  desire  of  Mr.  Danforth,  at  reasonable  prices. 

At  the  end  of  the  carry  on  the  lake  shore  are  a  flagstaff  and  flag. 
If  you  arc  going  to  stopatDANFORTH's  Camp,  you  can  signal  him 
by  hoisting  the  flag  and  he  will  send  a  boat  down  to  meet  you. 
But  if  you  are  intending  to  camp  out  you  can  hire  a  boat  at  Flint's 
camp,  and  walk  over  to  the  river  and  embark  at  the  head  of  the 
rapids. 

Leaving  the  gorge,  you  pull  up  the  outlet  above  the  dam,  pass- 
ing a  large  brook  that  runs  into  the  main  stream  from  between 
two  hills  on  the  cast  side.  It  is  said  there  are  beaver  in  this 
stream,  but  we  cannot  vouch  for  them. 

From  the  dam  to  the  lake  proper,  at  Loon  Point,  is  about  a 
mile. 

On  the  east  side  of  the  outlet  a  forest  Are  has  killed  the  growth 
far  up  the  ridge,  and  the  dead  trunks  have  fallen  in  every  direc- 
tion. 

Near  the  lake  the  outlet  bends  sharply  to  the  west,  around  a 
bushy  point.  Doubling  this,  the  lake  in  all  its  beauty  lies  spread 
out  before  you,  and  it  certainly  is  one  of  the  most  beautiful  sheets 
of  water  I  have  ever  seen. 

It  is  not  so  large  as  Mooselucsi agcntic,  Umbagog,  or  perhaps 
a  score  of  others ;  but  it  is  prettier  than  them  all.  Its  entire 
length  is  not  more  than  five  miles ;  and  its  greatest  breadth,  from 
the  mouth  of  Moose  Brook  on  the  east  shore  to  the  foot  of 
BosE-BocK  Cove  at  the  south-west  corner,  is  not  over  three 
miles. 

Most  of  the  main  lakes  are  long  and  narrow ;  Parmacheneb 
is  an  exception.  It  fills  a  natural  basin,  walled  about  by  high- 
wooded  Mils,  some  of  which  are  mountains  of  note.  Bose-Buck, 
at  the  foot  of  the  cove  of  the  same  name,  is  one  of  the  finest  cone- 
shaped  peaks  in  New  England. 

Two  hunters,  with  their  dog  Bose,  were  skirting  the  lake,  —  as 
the  story  runs.  For  some  days  they  had  shot  nothing,  and  were 
suffering  for  food.  As  they  passed  the  foot  of  the  cove,  Bose 
started  a  buck,  which  ran  directly  up  the  side  of  the  mountain, 
till  the  dog  overtook  and  pulled  it  down.  So  they  named  the  peak 
Base's  Buck. 

In  the  north-east,  too,  a  very  high  blue  mountain  is  visible  over 


234  FAKRAR'S   ILLUSTRATED   GUIDE   TO 


the  nearer  peaks.  This  is  one  of  the  Boundary  Mountains.  Over 
all  the  hills  which  border  the  lake  shores  a  heavy  mixed  growth 
comes  down  to  the  water's  edge. 

On  the  west  side,  above  the  cove,  there  is  a  gradual  slope  leading 
up  from  the  shore  for  a  mile  to  the  height  of  land. 

There  are  no  islands  in  the  lower  part  of  the  lake.  Towards 
the  northern  end,  and  above  Indian  Field  Point,  there  is  a  chain 
of  three  wooded  islets  extending  down  in  a  line;  and  above  these 
there  are  numerous  curious  floating  islands,  some  of  an  acre  in 
extent,  which  rise  and  fall  with  the  lake  surface. 

An  hour's  rowing  will  bring  you  up  to  Indian  Point,  which 
from  the  south  side  seems  a  part  of  the  north  shore,  but  which  in 
reality  separates  the  lake  from  a  roomy  expanse  of  a  square  mile 
or  more,  known  as  Indian  Cove. 

Passing  between  the  second  and  third  of  the  wooded  islands, 
you  enter  the  inlet  where  the  Magallowat  enters  the  lake.  Fol- 
lowingthe  Magalloway  for  a  quarter  of  a  mile,  you  reach  the 
Bite  of  Cleveland's  lower  camp,  of  which  there  are  only  a  few 
ruins.  This  is  a  good  place  to  establish  your  head-quarters,  al- 
though of  course  there  are  plenty  of  other  places  where  you  may 
camp  if  you  choose.  A  mile  and  a  half  above  here  are  Little 
Boy's  Falls. 

Although  most  of  the  ponds  in  the  vicinity  of  Little  Bot's  Falls 
furnish  good  sport  to  anglers,  we  would  speak  particularly  of 
Dock  Pond  and  Romp  Pond.  The  latter  is  five  miles  above  the 
falls,  while  Dock  Pond  is  still  nearer.  Small  trout  are  also 
very  plenty  in  all  the  ponds  throughout  this  section.  A  spotted 
trail  over  an  old  "  tote  road"  runs  from  near  Little  Boy's  Falls 
across  the  forest  to  the  Second  Connecticut  Lake,  a  distance  of 
eight  miles,  the  road  being  plain  enough  for  any  person  to  follow. 
A  small  camp  has  been  built  on  this  carry  about  half-way  across, 
and  may  be  used  by  parties  wishing  to  stop  on  the  road  over  night. 
It  is  simply  a  shelter,  and  those  availing  themselves  of  its  pro- 
tection will  have  to  find  their  own  supplies  and  do  their  own  cook- 
ing. 

Camp  Caribou  is  located  on  Treat's  Island,  near  the  head  of 
Parmachenee  Lake.  The  proprietor,  John  Danfoeth,  is  one  of 
the  best  guides  in  the  region.  As  Mr.  Danforth  is  away  from  the 
camp  the  most  of  the  time,  guiding  different  parties,  he  employs 


THE  ANDROSCOGGIN  LAKES.  235 

Mr.  and  Mrs.  Lewis  Fickett  to  manage  the  establishment,  which 
they  do  to  the  satisfaction  of  all  who  stop  with  them. 

The  hotel  consists  of  four  buildings,  one  being  four  stories  high. 
The  different  camps  contain  a  kitchen,  dining-room,  ladies'  sitting- 
room,  gentlemen's  sitting  and  smoking-room,  single  and  double 
sleeping-rooms,  etc.  All  of  the  buildings  were  constructed  by 
Mr.  Danforth,  as  well  as  the  furniture  used  in  them,  and  are  as 
neat  specimens  of  wood-work  as  you  will  find  anywhere ;  they 
stand  there  in  the  northern  wilderness,  miles  from  civilization,  a 
monument  of  his  energy,  perseverance,  and  skill.  Mr.  Danforth 
has  an  embryo  museum,  containing  already  quite  a  large  number 
of  curiosities,  in  one  of  his  camps,  that  is  always  open  for  the 
inspection  of  guests.     Additions  are  constantly  being  made  to  it. 

Camp  Caribou  has  good  accommodations  for  fifty  guests.  The 
terms  for  sportsmen  are  $2.00  per  day,  and  $1.25  for  guides. 

As  Mr.  Danforth  makes  his  home  at  his  camp  all  the  year 
round,  he  has  spent  some  of  his  leisure  time  in  winter  in  building  a 
number  of  small  camps,  now  numbering  eight,  on  different  ponds 
and  streams,  in  the  vicinity  of  Parmachenee,  and  the  head-waters 
of  the  Magalloway.  Some  of  them  are  within  a  few  hours'  travel 
of  this  hotel;  others,  a  day's  tramp  or  more  away.  They  are  all 
furnished  with  an  ordinary  camp  kit,  and  are  for  the  exclusive 
use  of  Mr.  Danforth's  guests.  John  keeps  a  large  and  varied 
quantity  of  supplies  at  Camp  Caribou,  and  can  furnish  stores  and 
blankets  to  camping-parties  who  need  them.  He  also  furnishes 
boats  and  guides.  During  the  season  of  summer  travel  a  boat  is 
always  kept  at  the  Parmachenee  end  of  the  Connecticut  Lake  and 
Cupsuptic  River  Carries,  so  that  people  coming  across  without  a 
guide  can  get  to  the  camp  without  delay. 

The  routes  from  Indian  Eock  and  Connecticut  Lake  to  Parma- 
chenee are  described  in  other  places  in  the  book.  Mr.  Danforth's 
address  is  Indian  Rock,  Franklin  Co.,  Maine. 

The  following  are  the  distances  from  Camp  Caribou  to  some  of 
the  hunting-grounds  and  fishing-points  in  the  vicinity :  Moose 
Brook,  i  mile ;  Otter  Pond,  2  miles ;  Long  Pond,  2  miles ;  Big 
Eddy,  Sh  miles ;  Little  Magalloway,  4  miles ;  Little  Boy's  Falls,  2 
miles  ;  Otter  Creek,  3  rniles ;  Outlet,  1  mile  ;  Inlet,  |  mile ;  Hard- 
scrabble,  I  mile ;  Rump  Pond,  8  miles ;  Arnold's  Bog,  12  miles. 

September  is  the  best  time  to  visit  this  lake,  as  then  the  trout- 


236  FARRAR'S  ILLUSTRATED   GUIDE. 

fishing  is  excellent.  Game  of  all  kinds  is  plenty  here,  and  it  is 
not  promising  our  readers  too  much  to  say,  that  if  they  are  ordi- 
nary good  hunters  they  may  bring  back  a  deer,  and  even  a  moose. 

A  party  composed  of  four  persons  and  a  guide,  which  is  as 
large  as  any  party  should  be,  can  make  the  trip  from  Boston  to 
Parmacueneb  and  return,  being  absent  from  the  city  three  weeks, 
at  an  expense  of  $50.00  each.  This  would  be  sufficient  to  cover 
the  cost  of  the  guide's  services,  .$2.50  per  day. 

As  it  is  sometimes  desirable  to  engage  the  services  of  your  guide 
before  leaving  Boston,  we  give  the  names  of  several  of  the  best 
guides  to  Parmachenee  Lake.  Their  post-office  address  is 
Wentworth's  Location,  N.  H. 

Nahdm  Bennett,  Peter  Bennett,  2d, 

Spofford  Flint,  George  Flint, 

John  Olson,  John  Eastman. 

The  altitude  of  Parmachenee  Lake  is  not  far  from  2,600  feet ; 
the  air  is  clear  and  bracing,  and  will  give  a  dyspeptic  individual 
an  appetite  that  will  astonish  him,  and  he  can  satisfy  the  cravings 
of  his  stomach  without  fear  of  paying  a  penalty  afterwards,  for 
the  exercise  about  the  woods  will  keep  his  digestive  organs  in 
good  order.  Life  in  a  tent  for  three  weeks  on  the  romantic  shores 
of  Parmachenee  will  do  more  good  for  him  than  all  the  doctors 
in  Boston  could  in  three  years.  Nature  is  a  skilful  physician,  and 
to  the  overworked  business  man,  and  all  others  who  feel  a  rest- 
less longing  for  change,  we  say,  start  for  the  Maine  woods,  leav- 
ing all  care  behind  you,  and,  our  word  for  it,  you  will  come  back 
to  the  city  a  healthier  and  better  man.  The  "  proof  of  the  pud- 
ding is  in  the  eating,"  and,  if  you  don't  believe  us,  try  it. 

See  new  route  to  Parmachenee  Lake,  on  page  276. 


CHAPTER   XVIII. 


^ntfober,  Plame,  as  a  Summer  2^esort 


MMl^^MI        HE  village  of  Andover,  Maine,  one  of  the 
■"-  loveliest  in  New  England,  although  compara- 

tively unknown,  until  within  a  few  years,  to 
the  great  mass  of  tourists  and  pleasure-seekers, 
is  now  universally  conceded  to  be  one  of  the 
most  desirable  places  east  of  the  Rocky  Moun- 
":,  tains  in  which  to  spend  the  summer.  It  is 
situated  in  Oxford  County,  twenty-one  miles 
from  Buvant's  Pond,  a  station  on  the  Grand  Trunk  Railroad, 
with  which  place  it  is  connected  by  a  first-class  line  of  daily 
stages,  owned  by  A.  S.  Tuttle,  Esq. 

Its  altitude,  some  500  feet  above  the  sea,  is  about  the  same  as 
that  of  North  Conway,  N.H.,  to  which  place  it  bears  a  strong 
resemblance.  Indeed,  so  near  alike  is  the  general  appearance  of 
the  two  places,  that  the  traveler  who  is  familiar  with  the  landscape 
of  North  Conway  will  at  once,  upon  first  visiting  Akdovee,  re- 
mark upon  the  strong  likeness  between  the  two  villages.  We 
present  our  readers  with  an  engraving  shovvring  the  village  from  a 
hill  on  the  Lake  Road,  on  the  east  side  of  the  Ellis  River. 

Like  North  Conway,  Andover  is  surrounded  by  mountain 
ranges,  among  which  are  some  of  the  highest  peaks  of  the  State. 
But  at  Andover  one  is  more  likely  to  be  impressed  with  the 
mountain  scenery  than  at  North  Conway,  from  the  fact  that  the 
mountains  lie  a  little  farther  away ;  thus  adding  to  the  delicate 
beauty  of  their  outline,  and  concealing  in  part  that  rugged  gran- 
deur which  a  nearer  approach  reveals. 

"  Tis  distauce  lends  enchantment  to  the  view," 

and  the  mountains  are  just  far  enough  away  to  impress  one  favor- 
ably with  their  height  and  general  appearance,  while  giving  you 
(237) 


THE   ANDROSCOGGIN  LAKES.  239 

a  longing  desire  to  become  more  intimately  acquainted  with  their 
beauties. 

The  Ellis  River  is  to  ANDOVERwhat  the  Saco  is  to  North  Con- 
way, and  adds  largely  to  the  beauty  of  the  landscape,  as  it  flows 
through  a  charming  intervale,  twisting  and  turning,  its  clear  and 
laughing  waters  flashing  like  silver  in  the  sunlight,  now  dancing 
merrily  through  some  broad  meadow,  and  anon  quietly  creeping 
through  some  sequestered  nook,  until  at  length  it  is  lost  in  the 
more  turbid  waters  of  the  Androscoggin,  into  which  stream  it 
empties  near  the  ferry  ut  Rumford. 

Andover  is  easily  accessible  from  Boston,  it  being  but  ten 
hours'  travel  by  rail  and  stage  between  the  two  places.  The  stage 
ride  from  Bryant's  Pond  to  Andover  is  a  pleasing  experience, 
long  to  be  remembered,  as  the  road,  instead  of  being  a  succes- 
sion of  hills,  as  in  the  White  Mountain  region,  is  level  the  entire 
distance,  and  follows  the  valleys  of  the  Androscoggin  and  Ellis 
Rivers  the  whole  way,  presenting  to  the  traveler  some  of  the 
most  charming  views  to  be  met  with  in  New  England.  Andover 
is  connected  with  thd  outside  world  by  both  mail  and  telegraph. 
The  telegraph  office  is  but  a  few  steps  from  the  hotels.  The  post- 
office  is  in  the  same  building.  Letters  mailed  in  Andover  in  the 
morning  reach  Boston  on  the  evening  of  the  same  day,  and  New 
York  the  next  morning. 

There  are  two  excellent  hotels  in  the  village,  known  as  the  An- 
dover HonsE  and  French's  Hotel.  The  first  named  is  kept 
by  Albert  W.  and  Frank  P.  Thomas,  gentlemen  favorably  known 
to  those  who  have  visited  this  section  of  the  country. 

The  Andover  House  is  admirably  situated  at  the  corner  of  tlie 
two  main  streets  of  the  village  and  commands  a  beautiful  pros- 
pect in  every  direction.  A  piazza  has  been  added  to  the  second 
story,  from  which  one  may  obtain  sunset  views  equal  to,  if  not 
surpassing,  those  to  be  seen  from  any  part  of  the  White  Moun- 
tains. A  new  "ell,  containing  nine  additional  sleeping-rooms,  is  a 
recent  addition  ;  the  house  as  it  now  stands  giving  good  accommo- 
dation to  fifty  or  sixty  guests. 

The  table  is  well  looked  after  by  Mrs.  Hewey,  a  lady  whose 
long  experience  in  the  cuisine  enables  her  to  provide  for  the  inner 
man  in  a  way  most  acceptable  to  the  tired  and  Imngry  traveler. 


240  FARRAR'S  ILLUSTB^ATED   GUIDE  TO 

The  terms  at  this  house  are  very  reasonable,  transient  board 
being  $2  per  day,  and  from  $7  to  $10  by  the  week. 

A  good  stable  is  connected  with  the  house,  where  one  can 
obtain  teams  at  very  reasonable  prices.  In  this  connection  we 
must  speak  of  the  Bcckboards,  or  Spbikoboards,  wliich  are 
an  institution  in  this  place,  and  which  are  the  easiest  and  most 
comfortable  teams  for  mountain  riding  that  the  writer  has  ever 
met  with.  This  vehicle  is  a  universal  favorite  with  the  ladies, 
who,  after  giving  it  one  trial,  can  scarcely  be  persuaded  to  ride 
in  anything  else. 

French's  Hotel,  John  A.  French,  proprietor,  is  a  new  house, 
three  stories  high,  containing  many  modern  improvements,  and 
has  accommodations  for  seventy-five  or  a  hundred  guests.  There 
is  a  two-story  piazza  in  front,  and  a  large  cupola  on  top  of  the 
house,  from  which  one  can  obtain  charming  views  up  and  down 
the  lovely  valley  of  the  Ellis.  The  hotel  is  pleasantly  located  on 
the  main  street,  in  close  proximity  to  stores,  churches,  post-office, 
telegraph  office,  etc.  A  livery-stable  is  connected  with  the  hotel, 
and  teams  are  run  daily  by  Mr.  French  to  and  from  the  lakes, 
connecting  with  the  steamers  of  the  Richardson-Rangeley  Lakes 
Transportation  Company.  A  good  table  is  set  at  this  popular 
hotel,  and  the  prices  of  board  vary  according  to  the  rooms.  The 
transient  rates  are  $2.00  per  day.  Mr.  French  has  given  satis- 
faction to  all  who  have  formerly  stopped  with  him,  and  will  do 
all  in  his  power  to  please  those  who  come  in  the  future. 

There  are  several  private  boarding-houses  in  Andovbb,  with 
accommodations  for  from  twelve  to  thirty  persons.  Among  those 
best  known  are  Cushman's,  with  accommodations  for  thirty; 
Clark's,  twelve ;  Poor's,  twenty. 

There  are  an  apothecary  store,  dry  and  fancy  goods,  and  grocery 
stores  in  the  place,  also  carriage  and  blacksmith  shops.  A  cheese 
factory,  several  starch,  grist,  and  lumber  mills,  may  also  be  men- 
tioned. The  Andover  Trotting  Park  was  built  two  years  ago,  and 
several  very  fine  races  have  been  trotted  there.  It  is  situated 
near  the  main  street  a  short  distance  from  the  hotel,  and  has  a 
half-mile  track. 

Tlie  educational  facilities  for  such  a  place  as  this  are  unusually 
good,*  there  being  four  school  districts,  with  five  school-houses, 
which  are  kept  open  for  school  nine  months  in  the  year. 


THE   ANDROSCOGGIN   LAKES..  241 

There  are  two  religious  societies,  botli  occupying  comfortable 
churches,  tlie  Congregationalist  and  Methodist. 

A  Town  Hall,  capable  of  seating  three  hundred  people,  is  used 
for  political  meetings  and  social  entertainments.  The  churches, 
stoi'cs,  post  and  telegraph  offices  and  hall,  are  vvrithin  a  stone's 
throw  of  the^ hotels,  making  it  very  convenient  for  guests  to  visit 
tliem  whether  the  weather  be  clear  or  stormy. 

Besides  being  a  most  delightful  retreat  for  a  person  to  spend  a 
vacation,  or  to  linger  through  a  summer,  Andoveh  is  one  of  the 
most  favorable  places  for  a  person  to  stop  who  is  any  way  afl^cted 
with  catarrhal  complaints.  Its  invigorating  and  health-giving 
mountain  air  is  a  sure  and  speedy  cure  for 

Rose  Cold  and  Hay  Fever, 

and  the  ordinary  catarrh  yields  readily  to  its  influences.  The 
■  writer  is  acquainted  with  several  who  visit  this  place  every  sum- 
mer, for  the  relief  afforded  them  from  the  above  complaints. 
There  are  many  large  groves  of  pine  in  the  immediate  vicinity  of 
Andover,  and  there  are  two  within  a  fewrods  of  the  hotels,  which 
are  charming  places  to  while  away  an  hour  or  two  on  a  pleasant 
summer  afternoon  with  a  book  for  a  companion ;  or  one  may  sit, 
in  fancy  free,  at  the  bottom  of  some  large  pine,  and  listen  to  the 
wind  sighing  through  the  topmost  branches,  far  overhead,  form- 
ing a  music  of  its  own,  until,  yielding  to  its  gentle  influence,  you 
fall  asleep,  dreaming  of  wood-nymphs  and  mountain-sprites,  and 
wake  to  find  the  shadows  of  tlie  declining  sun  stealing  down  the 
mountain  side,  and  a  golden  tint  pervading  all  around ;  and  won- 
dering to  yourself  how  you  could  have  slept  so  long,  you  start  for 
the  hotel,  no  longer  a  dreamer,  but  awake  to  the  realities  of  life  — 
supper  being  tlie  one  at  that  particular  time  which  you  think 
most  about. 

In  the  number  of  its  beautiful  rides  Andover  far  surpasses 
many  of  the  older  summer  resorts,  and  we  think  it  can  favorably 
compare  with  any  other  town  in  the  mountains  for  the  number  of 
its  places  of  interest.  Of  these  we  shall  now  speak,  commencing 
with  those  easily  reached  from  the  hotels  at  the  "  Corner." 


CHAPTER  XIX. 


E)rii3eB  ^roimii  ^nbcDcr. 


To    Roxbury    Pond,    Black    Brook    Notch, 

White    Cap    Mountain,   and 

Parmer's  Hill. 

E  doubt  if  in  New  England  there  is  a  more  beauti- 
ful expanse  of  water  than  this  lovely  pond. 
It  is  situated  in  tlie  town  of  Roxbury,  five 
miles  distant  from  the  village  of  Andover, 
on  the  road  leading  to  Mexico  and  Dixfield, 
on  the  east  side  of  the  Ellis  Rivek.  It  is 
a  mile  and  a  half  long,  by  a  mile  wide,  and  contains  two  islands,  the 
largest  of  which  is  about  four  acres  in  extent,  and  is  known  as  I. 
C.  Island.  Mr.  John  A.  French,  of  Ani>over,  has  built  a  small 
summer  house  on  the  Island,  for  the  entertainment  of  visitors,  and 
l)laced  several  boats  on  the  pond,  which  may  be  hired  at  low  prices. 
About  a  third  of  the  shore  around  the  pond  consists  of  a  splendid 
beach  of  hard  and  white  sand,  furnishing  fine  facilities  for  bath'ng. 
The  pond  is  noted  for  its  pickerel  fishing,  and  some  of  the  largest 
specimens  of  this  fish  we  have  ever  seen  have  been  caught  in  its 
waters.,  Mr.  French  has  also  stocked  it  with  black  bass,  which 
will  add  to  its  value  with  those  fond  of  fishing.  In  several  parts 
of  it  water-lilies  grow  luxuriantly.  The  pond  is  surrounded  by 
high  wooded  hills,  with  farms  on  the  cleared  slopes,  and  is  as 
pretty  a  sheet  of  water  as  one  would  wish  to  see.  Half  a  day  is 
sufficient  to  visit  the  pond,  although  we  are  confident  that  you 
will  not  be  contented  with  one  drive  in  that  direction. 

Black  Brook  Notch 

is  on  the  lake  road,  nine  miles  from  the  Andoveb  House,  and 
French's  Hotel,  and  four  from  Smith's  Mill.     Here  the  Sawyer 

^243} 


244  FARRAR'S  ILLUSTRATED   GUIDE. 

Mountain  and  Blue  Mountain  meet,  leaving  a  passage  just  wide 
enough  between  their  granite  sides  for  one  team  to  pass  through. 
It  is  a  wild-looking  place,  and  numerous  slides  that  have  occurred 
here  show  how  the  rugged  mountain  has  succumbed  to  the  action 
of  the  frost-king.  To  add  to  the  desolation  of  the  place,  a  fire 
ran  through  here  a  few  years  ago,  leaving  the  bleached  rocks  bare, 
and  the  blackened  trunks  of  the  trees  standing  like  statues  in 
armor  in  some  deserted  castle.  Many  of  the  trees  have  fallen, 
and  lay  piled  in  all  shapes  and  directions,  forming  an  almost  im- 
passable barrier  to  any  one  attempting  to  leave  the  road.  From 
the  top  of  Cedar  Hill  the  best  view  of  the  Notch  is  obtained.  A 
large  cliff  on  the  side  of  Sawyer  Mountain  is  pointed  out  to  you 
as  a  place  where  bears  are  frequently  seen.  Through  this  deep 
mountain  gorge  the  waters  of  Black  Brook  roar  and  tumble, 
for  miles  beyond.  Across  the  brook  at  this  place  a  sluice  dam 
has  been  built,  to  hold  back  the  water  in  spring  so  that  logs  may 
be  run  down  the  stream.  Up  and  down  the  brook,  for  several 
miles  in  this  vicinity,  the  trout-fishing  is  excellent,  a  catch  of  five 
hundred  not  being  considered  an  unusual  day's  work.  There 
was  one  week  in  June,  1877,  when  it  was  estimated  that  a  thousand 
trout  a  day  were  taken  out  of  this  stream,  and  still  there  were 
plenty  left. 

"WTiite  Cap. 

This  mountain  is  one  of  the  prominent  features  of  the  landscape 
about  Andover,  and  is  seven  miles  south-east  from  French's 
Hotel  and  the  Andover  Housk.  There  is  a  good  carriage  road 
to  within  a  mile  of  the  top,  and  the  drive  hither  is  very  pleasant ; 
its  summits  afford  some  excellent  views  of  the  surrounding  coun- 
try, that  up  anil  down  the  Ellis  River  Valley  being  unusually  fine. 
Portland  is  visible  from  it  on  a  fair  day,  there  being  no  high  hills 
intervening  to  obstruct  the  view.  It  is  largely  resorted  to  in  the 
fall,  by  people  living  in  the  vicinity,  to  gather  blueberries,  which 
fruit  grows  in  astonishing  quantities  on  its  bare,  round  summit. 

Farmer's  Hill, 

another  sightly  elevation,  lies  north-east  from  the  Andoveb 
House  and  Fkencii's  Hotel,  a  distance  of  four  miles.  The  road 
runs  through  a  pleasant  farming  country,  and  the  view  to  be  ob- 


Upper  Fall,   Cataract  I5kook.   Anuover,  Mi 


246  FARRAR'S  ILLUSTRATED  GUIDE. 

tained  from  its  top  is  thought  by  some  to  be  equal  to  that  from 
White  Cap.  The  wliole  valley  of  the  Ellis  Rivee  and  the 
village  of  Andover  lie  spread  out  like  a  map  to  the  west,  form- 
ing a  pleasing  landscape  for  the  eye  to  linger  on.  The  excursion 
may  be  easily  made  in  half  a  day. 

A  great  many  hops  are  raised  yearly  in  this  vicinity,  and  daring 
the  picking  season  the  fields  are  alive  with  girls,  whose  nimble 
fingers  transfer  the  hops  from  the  poles  to  the  baskets.  During 
the  hop-picking  there  is  at  least  one  dance  a  week,  in  some  farm- 
er's barn,  and  the  lads  and  lassies  have  gay  times.  A  hop-picking 
without  an  occasional  dance  would  be  decidedly  unfashionable. 

Saw^yer's  Notch 

is  another  gap  in  the  mountains,  similar  in  character  to  Black 
Brook  Notch,  although  perhaps  not  so  well  worth  a  visit  as  the 
latter  place.  Still  the  scenery  here  is  far  from  being  tame,  and 
the  Sawyer  Brook,  wliich  runs  through  the  gorge,  is  an  excellent 
place  for  trout,  and  is  annually  resorted  to  by  fishermen  who  have 
become  acquainted  with  its  merits.  A  colony  of  beavers  located 
here  a  few  years  ago,  and  built  a  dam  across  the  stream,  which  is 
quite  a  curiosity.  It  is  six  miles  from  French's  Hotel  and  the 
Andover  House,  over  a  good  road,  and  can  be  easily  visited  in 
the  forenoon  or  afternoon. 

A  path  starts  from  near  the  head  of  the  Notch,  that  leads  to 
C.  Pond,  about  four  miles  beyond.  This  sheet  of  water,  although 
not  very  large,  is  well  stocked  with  trout,  and  is  charmingly  located 
at  the  foot  of  the  mountain.  The  scenery  about  it  is  wild  and 
romantic.  "  C.  Pond  Bluff,"  so  called,  is  an  immense  ledge  of 
rock,  that  overhangs  the  upper  end  of  this  miniature  lake. 


CHAPTER   XX. 

toatcrfalb  aiii^    CaecabeiJ. 

The    Cataracts,  Upper  and    Lower    Falls,  Cascade,  Basin 
and  Flume. 

VERY  j)leasant  ride  is  the 
"DRIVE  AROUND  THE 
SQU.ARE,  "— a  distance  of 
about  eight  miles.  Leaving 
the  liotels,  you  drive  down  the 
stage  road,  whicli  is  the  princi- 
pal street  in  the  village,  and 
some  eighty  feet  wide,  to 
South  Andovek;  and,  turn- 
ing to  the  left,  you  cross  the 
Ellis  River,  by  a  covered 
bridge,  obtaining  a  magnificent 
view  of  the  broad  meadows, 
which  stretch  north  for  several  miles,  and  again  turning  to  the 
left,  follow  the  Ellis  up,  driving  as  far  as  the  covered  bridge,  at 
the  "  Corner,"  where  you  again  cross  the  river,  and  return  to  the 
hotels. 

Between  eight  and  ten  in  the  morning,  while  the  early  freshness 
of  the  day  is  upon  the  hills  and  valleys,  or  after  four  in  the  after- 
noon, when  the  sun  is  beginning  slowly  to  decline,  and  the  shadows 
to  fall  softly  on  the  mountains,  is  by  far  the  prettiest  time  to  take 
this  drive. 

Five  miles  from  the  village,  on  the  lake  road,  are  The  Devil's 
Dex,  PIermit  Falls,  and  Silver  Ripple  Cascade,  which  we 
have  given  a  full  description  of  in  Chapter  VI. ;  it  is  therefore  un- 
necessary to  repeat  it  here.  Suffice  it  to  say  that  there  is  no  more 
beautiful  excursion  to  be  made  in  the  vicinity  of  Andover  than 
this,  and  an  entire  day  should  be  devoted  to  it,  which  can  easily 
(247J 


THE   ANDROSCOGGIN  LAICES.  249 

be  done  by  making  a  picnic  dinner  one  of  the  features  of  the 
excursion. 

We  will  now  speak  of 

The  Cataracts, 

a  most  charming  series  of  falls  and  cascades,  whoso  beauties  can- 
not be  too  highly  praised.  They  are  situated  on  Frye's  Brook, 
or  the  Cataract  Brook,  as  it  is  sometimes  called,  about  five 
miles  from  the  "  Corner."  The  road  follows  Old  Maid  Brook 
for  most  of  the  way,  and  runs  through  woods  that  furnish  a  most 
agreeable  shade  from  the  hot  rays  of  the  sun.  After  leaving  the 
village  the  houses -are  few  and  far  between,  and  the  road  is  very 
quiet.  The  ride  is  not  surpassed  by  any  in  the  vicinity  of  Ando- 
VER,  and  is  a  favorite  one  with  all  visitors  to  the  place. 

Turning  from  the  road  we  enter  a  clearing,  where  the  team  is 
left,  and  a  lovely  walk  of  half  a  mile  up  the  mountain  side,  which 
is  covered  with  a  varied  growth  of  hard  and  soft  wood,  brings 
you  to  the  first  or 

Lovrer  Fall. 

This  partakes  somewhat  of  the  character  of  "  Artist's  Fall"  at 
North  Conway,  but  is  far  prettier.  The  volume  of  water  at  any 
season  of  the  year  is  also  larger.  The  water  flows  over  a  dark 
cliff,  and  the  sides  of  the  brook,  being  semicircular  in  shape,  fur- 
nish the  visitor  with  a  good  view  from  any  direction. 
A  few  rods  above  is  the 

Upper  Pall, 

an  engraving  of  which  we  present  to  our  readers.  The  water 
here  comes  down  in  two  falls,  the  whole  height  being  about  sixty 
feet.  Tlie  entire  bed  of  the  sti-eam  where  the  water  makes  its 
first  leap  is  solid  rock,  and  at  the  bottom  of  the  first  half  of  the 
fall  is  a  round  basin  in  the  rock,  of  unfatliomablc  depth,  according 
to  local  tradition.  The  water  and  frost  have  played  sad  havoc 
with  the  granite  walls  of  the  stream  at  this  place,  and  immense 
boulders  have  fallen  off  from  the  ui)per  part  of  the  cliff,  and  lie 
in  the  stream  at  the  base  of  tiie  second  fall. 

There  are  thick  woods  hero  on  each  side,  and  the  place  has  an 
indescrib.ible  charm,  that  will  cause  one  to  linger  as  if  unable  to 


250  FARRAR'S   ILLUSTRATED   GUIDE  TO 

tear  himself  away  from  its  beautiful  scenery.  It  would  furnish 
a  fitting  abode  for  a  sylvan  goddess,  and  we  can  almost  imagine 
some  Diana  to  appear  and  welcome  us. 

Leaving  this  sequestered  retreat,  we  follow  the  stream  up  the 
mountain  side  for  half  a  mile  farther,  the  bare  and  scarred  summit 
of  Old  Bald  Pate  frowning  down  upon  us,  as  if  questioning  our 
right  to  invade  his  domain,  and  reach  one  of  the  most  lovely  places 
to  be  found  on  this  most  beautiful  stream.  Here  the  mountain 
torrent  pours  over  the  whitest  of  granite  rock,  worn  smooth  as 
glass  from  the  action  of  the  water,  forming  a  series  of  delightful 
cascades,  known  as  the 

Sylvan  Cascades. 

Here  the  sunlight  streams  in,  causing  the  water  to  sparkle  like 
diamonds,  and  furnishing  a  strong  comparison  to  the  darkness  of 
The  Flume  above.  There  are  basins  worn  in  the  so'lid  rock 
here,  that  for  beauty  of  shape  and  finish  would  put  to  shame  any 
work  of  art.  One  can  sit  here  for  hours  feasting  the  eye  on  the 
exquisite  beauties  of  the  place,  the  ear  enchanted  by  the  gentle 
murmur  of  the  rippling  waters. 

If  one  is  inclined  to  solitude  no  more  beautiful  spot  could  be 
found  in  which  to  indulge  in  pensive  mood,  for  here  you  are 
entirely  surrounded  by  nature.  The  murmuring  stream,  the 
granite  rocks,  the  dark  forest,  lit  up  a  little  by  the  delicate  birch 
and  silver  maple,  below,  the  valley  to  which  the  torrent  hastens, 
above,  the  frowning  peaks  of  mountains,  and  over  all  the  clear 
blue  sky,  — majestic  canopy  of  earth. 

We  present  our  readers  with  an  engraving  made  from  a  photo- 
graph taken  at  this  spot. 

Less  than  an  eighth  of  a  mile  above  is  quite  a  wonder  of  nature, 
known  as 

The  Flume. 

Here,  for  several  hundred  feet  on  both  sides  of  the  brook,  the 
rocks  rise  to  a  height  of  from  twenty  to  sixty  feet,  the  stream 
flowing  along  the  bottom.  A  tree  has  been  felled  so  as  to  fall 
across  the  chasm,  affording  an  insecure  bridge  by  which  to  cross. 
The  width  varies  from  ten  to  twenty  feet.  A  thick  growth  of  fir 
and  pine  has  obtained  a  foothold  on  each  side  of  the  cliff,  shut- 
ting out  the  sun,  except  perhaps  for  a  few  moments  at  noon, 


THE  ANDEOSCOGGIN  LAKES.  251 

when  it  is  directly  overhead.  The  darkness  adds  to  the  solemn 
appearance  of  the  place,  and  you  gaze  with  feelings  of  awe  along 
the  cavernous  sides  of  the  frightful-looking  ravine  before  you,  — 

"  Through  the  narrow  rift 
Of  the  vast  rocks,  against  whose  rugged  feet 
Beats  the  mad  torrent  with  perpetual  roar, 
Where  noonday  is  as  twilight,  and  the  winds 
Come  burdened  with  the  everlasting  moan 
Of  forests  and  of  far-off  waterfalls." 

We  present  our  readers  with  a  capital  engraving  of  the  Flume 
on  the  following  page. 

One  summer,  the  writer,  with  another  gentleman  from  Boston, 
followed  this  stream  nearlj'  to  its  source,  and  the  places  men- 
tioned in  this  book  are  only  a  few  of  the  many  that  are  to  be  found 
along  its  banks.  It  is,  in  fact,  the  finest  mountain  stream  we 
have  ever  seen,  and  we  have  visited  a  large  number.  Your 
interest  is  enhanced,  and  new  beauties  are  unfolded,  at  every  step 
of  your  advance,  and  an  entire  day  may  be  most  profitably  and 
agreeably  spent  in  exploring  its  hidden  mysteries.  Any  lady  who 
is  a  good  mountain-climber  can  visit  all  the  special  places  of 
interest  on  this  stream  in  one  day,  if  pressed  for  time;  but  of 
course  more  pleasure  could  be  derived  from  a  slower  exami- 
nation. 

A  few  years  ago  a  gentleman  narrowly  escaped  from  a  serious 
accident  at  this  place.  He  was  crossing  the  flume  by  means  of 
the  tree  that  spanned  the  chasm,  and  had  reached  the  middle 
when  his  feet  slipped  and  down  he  came.  By  good  luck  he  caught 
at  the  tree,  and  held  on  until  his  companion  rescued  him  from  his 
perilous  situation.  At  either  end  of  the  flume  one  can  cross  the 
stream  without  danger. 

It  is  comparatively  easy  to  make  the  ascent  of  Bald  Pate 
Mountain  by  following  up  the  stream  and  branches,  as  they  rise 
A'ery  near  the  summit.  If  this  route  does  not  present  as  smooth 
walking  as  the  path  through  the  woods,  it  has  the  advantage 
of  being  more  direct,  and,  consequently,  shorter,  enabling  one  to 
make  the  same  time  as  by  the  woodland  path.  In  following  up 
the  stream  keep  to  the  right-hand  side.  Before  you  reach  the 
head,  you  cross  three  branches  that  empty  in  from  the  right. 


Thk  FiXMK.   Catakact  Brook.   Andovki!.   Mk. 


CHAPTER  XXI. 

Balb  f)ate  iHoimtain. 


The  Ascent,  and  View  from  its   Summit. 

HIS  lofty  peak  is  one  of  several 
mountains  that  lie  west  of  the 
village  of  Andovek,  and  is  reached 
from  the  same  place  as  the  "  Cata- 
racts." From  French's  Hotel 
or  the  Andoveu  Hocse  to  the 
summit  it  is  nine  miles,  of  which 
five  can  be  done  in  a  team.  Leav- 
ing the  road  at  the  Cataract  path, 
you  commence  the  ascent  of  the 
i  mountain,  the  base  being  thickly 
covered  with  woods.  A  "  blazed  " 
path  leads  to  the  top,  but  it  is  very 
blind,  and  if  you  have  not  had 
considerable  experience  in  wood- 
craft, the  chances  are  ten  to  one  that  you  will  lose  it  before  reach- 
ing the  summit.  It  is  safer,  and,  therefore,  more  preferable,  to  take 
a  guide  with  you.  But,  if  you  "  go  it  alone,"  and  lose  your  way, 
climb  a  tree,  as  the  summit  is  visible  from  the  top  of  any  reason- 
ably high  tree  for  miles  around.  Before  reaching  the  bare 
ground,  you  go  through  a  thicket  of  scrub  spruce  that  is  evi- 
dently placed  there  to  try  a  man's  patiCnce.  If  you  don't  lose  it 
before  you  struggle  througli  this  wicked  net-work  of  shrubbery, 
you  must  be  a  saint.  For  the  last  three-quarters  of  a  mile  the 
mountain  is  bare  of  trees,  but  is  covered  until  within  a  few  hun- 
dred yards  of  the  top  with  mountain-cranberries.  The  singular 
bleak  and  bare  appearance  of  the  top  of  this  mountain  is  no  doubt 
what  suggested  its  name.  Near  the  northern  end  there  is  a 
crevice  running  nearly  across  the  mountair.,  from  one  to  four  feet 
[253) .^ 


254  FARRAR'S  ILLUSTRATED   GUIDE. 

wide,  and  from  ten  to  fifty  feet  deep.  The  summit  commands  a 
fine  view  in  every  direction,  and  on  a  fair  day  many  of  the  lakes 
are  plainly  to  be  seen.  This  is  the  fourth  highest  mountain  in 
Maine,  and  cannot  be  far  from  three  thousand  feet  above  the  sea 
level.  Like  Mount  Washington,  it  is  frequently  enveloped  in 
clouds,  and  snow  remains  on  it  some  seasons  until  late  in  July. 
It  is  a  hard  mountain  to  climb,  but,  once  on  top,  the  prospect 
amply  repays  you  for  your  labor  in  reaching  it.  It  will  take  about 
two  hours  to  make  the  ascent,  and  one  will  need  the  better  part  of 
the  day  to  make  the  trip  easily. 

One  summer,  the  writer,  accompanied  by  a  gentleman  who  was 
a  fellow-border  in  the  hotel,  made  the  ascent  under  somewhat 
unfavorable  circumstances. 

Learning  at  the  hotel  that  there  was  a  very  fine  view  to  be 
obtained  from  its  summit,  we  started  one  day  after  dinner  to 
climb  Old  Bald  Pate.  We  reached  the  clearing  at  the  base  of 
the  mountain  about  two  o'clock,  and  after  fastening  our  horse 
started  up.  Taking  the  cataract  path,  we  went  up  for  nearly  a 
mile  without  diflSculty.  Here  the  path  ended,  and  we  began  to 
look  for  the  blazed  trees.*  We  missed  them,  but  found  a  blazing 
sun  that  was  rather  warm  for  mountain-climbing.  After  a  half  hour 
spent  in  useless  search,  we  concluded  to  go  on,  and  travel  by  the 
sun.  After  an  hour  of  weary  climbing  we  had  reached  the  sum- 
mit of  the  mountain  we  were  on,  and  found  we  had  lost  our  way. 
My  companion  climbed  a  spruce  tree,  —  he  was  a  real  spruce  young 
fellow,  — to  learn  our  position,  and,  upon  descending,  said  that 
Bald  Pate  lay  a  mile  or  more  to  the  left  of  us.  So  we  tramped 
on,  down  the  back  side  of  the  mountain  that  we  were  then  on, 
and  finally  saw  IBald  Pate  towering  a  mile  or  two  above  and  be- 
yond us.  Taking  a  careful  look  around  to  get  the  lay  of  the 
land,  we  started  up  again.  The  woods  were  thick  and  the  under- 
brush troublesome,  but  we  persevered,  and  finally  worked  our 
way  up  and  through  the  lower  belt  of  forest,  and  came  out  amid 
a  growth  of  scrub  trees  and  bushes,  \nth  dead  cedars  and  pines, 
killed  by  some  forest  fire,  strewn  about  us  in  a  perfect  tangle. 
The  hard  old  granite  face  of  Bald  Pate  was  now  clearly  in  sight 
of  us,  but  still  a  long  way  off.  We  were  tired  and  thirsty,  but  we 
had  left  the  hotel,  contrary  to  the  wishes  of  our  friends,  without 
a  guide,  intending  to  stand  upon  the  top  of  Old  Bald  Pate  with- 


(Silver  Ripple  Cascade,  Black   Brook,  Akuoveu,  Mk. 


256  FARRAR'S  ILLUSTRATED   GUIDE   TO 

out  any  help,  and  we  meant  to  do  it.  So  upwards  we  struggled. 
It  w^  with  a  feeling  of  thanksgiving  that  we  cleared  the  fallen 
trees,  and  stepped  out  on  the  barren  rocks,  where,  if  locomotion 
was  still  difficult,  we  were  not  compelled  to  climb  or  jump  over  a 
prostrate  tree  every  three  or  four  feet.  A  strong  wind  was  blow- 
ing across  the  mountain,  which  felt  very  refreshing  to  our  heated 
faces,  but  it  cooled  our  bodies  so  rapidly  that  we  were  soon  glad 
to  put  on  our  overcoats.  We  were  now  really  sufEering  from 
thirst,  and  upon  reaching  the  extreme  summit  we  were  overjoyed 
to  find  cool,  clear  water  in  the  hollows  of  the  ledge,  which  at 
that  moment  appeared  like  nectar  to  us.  Lying  flat  upon  the 
granite  ledge,  we  drank  and  drank,  until  at  last  our  thirst  was 
satisfied.  Not  until  then  did  we  begin  to  feast  our  eyes  upon  the 
glorious  view  which  was  spread  out  before  us  in  every  direction. 
To  the  north-west  lay  Usibagog  and  the  Dixvillb  Peaks'  Far- 
ther east  the  remainder  of  the  Andrcscoggix  Lakes  were  plainly 
discernible,  their  waters  shining  like  gold  in  the  last  rays  of  the 
setting  sun.  The  Ellis  Valley  and  the  village  of  Andovee 
formed  a  beautiful  picture  in  the  east,  and  south-east  and  south- 
west rose  the  peaks  of  Grafton  and  Beak  River  Notch,  hiding 
the  fair  village  of  Bethel  fram  our  view.  From  the  highest 
point  of  the  mountain  we  counted  nearly  a  hundred  other  peaks 
surrounding  us  in  different  directions.  On  the  extreme  height  of 
the  summit  we  found  a  monument  of  stones,  built  by  those  who 
had  made  the  ascent  before  us,  and  we  added  a  few  to  the  pile. 
The  mountain  is  dduble-peaked,  but  the  lower  one,  about  a  mile 
distant,  we  did  not  visit.  From  the  west  side  this  mountain  pre- 
sents a  saddle-back  shape,  and  forms  one  of  the  walls  of.  Grafton 
Notch.  From  Bethel  to  Umbagoo  Lake,  as  seen  from  the  west 
side,  the  mountain  is  known  as  Saddleback,  instead  of  Bald 
Pate,  and  strangers  are  often  confounded  by  the  two  names.  In 
blueberry  time  this  mountain  is  a  popular  resort  for  bears,  several 
having  been  shot  here ;  but,  fortunately  for  us,  we  did  not  run 
across  any.  As  we  were  both  unarmed,  the  bears  would  certainly 
have  had  the  advantage  in  case  they  choose  to  attack  us. 

The  clouds  had  now  begun  to  envelop  the  mountain,  and  the 
chilliness  of  the  air  had  increased  to  such  an  extent  as  to  be  dis- 
agreeable, even  with  our  overcoats  on.  It  was  seven  o'clock,  and 
high  time  we  should  be  moving.     So  we  started  down,  and  as 


THE  ANDKOSCOGGIN  LAKES.  257 

soon  as  we  had  reached  the  belt  of  timber  began  to  look  for  the 
blazed  path.  We  were  fortunate  enough  to  find  it.  A  little  way 
down  we  stopped  at  an  immense  spring,  which  is  quite  a  curiosity 
in  itself,  and  had  a  drink  of  its  cool  and  sparkling  waters.  We 
had  been  told  of  this  spring  at  the  hotel,  but  had  not  found  it  on 
our  way  up.  Our  thirst  satisfied,  we  continued  on  down  the 
mountain,  following  the  path  until  it  became  so  dark  we  could  not 
see  the  marks  on  the  trees,  and  then  we  went  at  random. 

Becoming  alarmed,  lest  we  should  get  too  far  out  of  our  way, 
we  struck  for  Cataract  Brook,  knowing  in  which  direction  it  lay, 
and  soon  reached  it.  Following  the  bed  of  the  stream  we  made 
betted  progress,  because  the  rocks  had  been  washed  white  by  the 
freshets,  and  we  could  see  where  to  step.  Reaching  the  Upper 
Cataract  Fall,  wc  were  compelled  to  take  to  the  woods  again. 
And  now  the  trouble  commenced ;  for  by  this  time  it  had  grown 
so  dark  that  you  could  not  see  your  hand  before  you,  and  the  trees 
grew  so  thick  together  that  we  could  not  see  the  sky.  Guided  by 
the  sound  of  the  brook,  we  worked  our  way  along,  groping  and 
stumbling,  now  uttering  an  exclamation  of  disgust,  and  then 
laughing  heartily  as  the  ludicrousness  of  the  situation  forced 
itself  upon  us.  Finally,  in  climbing  over  a  tree,  I  disturbed  a 
wasp's  nest,  and  for  a  moment  after  I  felt  as  if  somebody  was 
using  me  for  a  pin-cushion.  We  moved  away  from  that  particular 
spot  in  a  hurry,  although  at  the  imminent  risk  of  breaking  our 
necks  as  we  tumbled  over  stumps,  loose  rocks,  and  fallen  trees, 
and  when  we  had  reached  a  safe  distance  we  sat  down  for  a  few 
minutes'  rest  and  consultation.  We  knew  that  we  were  within  a 
quarter  of  a  mile  of  the  road,  and  very  near  the  cataract  path, 
and,  that  once  found,  a  few  moments'  walk  would  place  us  beside 
our  team ;  but  to  find  the  path  was  the  difficulty,  in  the  profound 
darkness  by  which  we  were  enveloped.  Striking  a  match  we 
started  a  fire,  and  had  just  got  it  well  blazing  when  we  heard  a 
team  in  the  road.  A  few  moments  later  we  were  joined  by  two 
men  with  lanterns,  who  had  been  sent  out  as  a  rescuing  party,  by 
our  anxious  friends  from  the  hotel.  By  the  aid  of  the  lantern 
wo  descended  to  the  road  in  a  few  minutes ;  and  reached  the  hotel 
at  about  eleven  o'clock.  We  had  been  seven  hours  in  making 
the  ascent  and  descent  of  the  mountain ;  but  my  companion  agreed 
with  me  in  thinking  that  we  could  do  better  another  time. 


As  Obstacle. 


CHAPTER   XXII. 


^Excursions  to  ©unn's  i^otci}  antj  JFirst  B  l^ilL 


MONG  otlier  beautiful  excursions  in  the  vicinity 

of  Andover,  perluips  there  is  none  from  which 

one  will   derive  a  greater  amount  of   pleasure 

than  a  visit  to  this  wonderful  work  of  nature. 

It  is  situated   seven  miles   from  the  Andover 

House   and  French's   Hotel,  on  the  road   to 

Umbagoo  Lake. 

You  follow  the  same  road  that  leads  to  the  "  Cataracts,"  and 

continue  on  for  two  miles  farther,  stopping  at  the  foot  of  a  high 

hill. 

Leaving  the  carriage-road,  a  walk  of  three-quarters  of  a  mile 
brings  you  to  these  walls  of  solid  rock,  so  grand  and  impressive. 
The  mountains  here  come  together  at  a  height  of  about  1,500  feet 
above  the  sea,  leaving  a  passage  scarcely  ten  feet  wide  between 
tliem. 

The  path  to  the  Notch  starts  from  the  left-hand  side  of  the 
road,  and  lies  across  a  meadow,  where  grow  in  exhaustless  num- 
bers the  most  delicious  wild  strawberries.  Then  crossing  the 
west  branch  of  the  Ellis,  which  rises  in  the  hills  above,  you 
continue  on  through  a  dense  forest,  that  furnishes  a  comfortable 
shade,  and  climb  slowly  up  the  mountain  side.  The  path  you 
follow  was  formerly  a  stage  road,  which,  by  passing  through  the 
Notch,  cut  off  several  miles  of  the  distance  between  Andover 
and  Umbagog  Lake.  For  several  years,  however,  it  has  not 
been  used,  owing  to  a  bad  wash-out,  that  carried  a  part  of  the 
road  into  a  deep  ravine.  This  occurred  near  the  Notch,  and  the 
damage  was  so  great  that  it  was  tliought  inexpedient  to  repair  it, 
on  account  of  the  expense,  and  another  road  was  accordingly  built 
around  it.     The  road  has  become  somewhat  overgrown  with  un- 

(259)  


260  FARRAR'S  ILLUSTRATED  GUIDE  TO 

derbrush,  but  through  this  you  can  easily  pick  your  way.  The 
ascent  is  steep,  and  you  will  be  glad  to  rest  occasionally  before 
reaching  the  top.  There  has  been  some  talk  lately  of  having  the 
County  Commissioners  lay  out  the  road  again,  the  State  to  make 
an  appropriation  of  one  thousand  dollars  to  put  it  in  repair. 

As  you  climb  up  the  side  of  the  mountain  there  are  occasional 
openings,  from  which  you  can  get  views  of  the  farther  side  of  the 
gorge,  and  of  the  picturesque  stream  which  sings  noisily  far  below 
you.  On  reaching  the  top,  the  awful  grandeur  of  the  scene  is  at 
once  apparent :  two  large  walls  of  rock,  rising  to  a  height  of 
more  than  a  thousand  feet,  their  sides  rugged  and  scarred  from 
long  battle  with  the  storm-king's  forces.  One  immense  mass  of 
ledge,  at  the  very  head  of  the  Notch,  towers  like  a  huge  pinnacle 
far  above  all  others.  To  the  summit  of  this  the  adventuresome 
tourist  may  clamber,  not,  however,  without  some  little  risk  to  his 
nock,  and,  seated  on  the  top,  command  a  magnificent  view,  extend- 
ing down  through  the  Notch  for  miles.  The  wild  and  weird  char- 
acter of  the  place  is  more  forcibly  brought  to  your  mind  here  than 
from  any  other  point,  and  this  view  alone  will  amply  recompense 
you  for  the  toil  and  time  in  visiting  this  charming  spot.  To  gain 
a  proper  idea  of  the  height,  however/one  should  descend  into  the 
ravine,  and  gaze  up  at  the  huge  boulder  which  towers  so  far  above. 
The  stream,  too,  is  seen  falling  like  a  silver  thread,  and  flashing 
in  the  sunlight,  now  making  a  leap  of  several  feet,  and  then  flowing 
swiftly  over  the  face  of  the  rock,  until  it  reaches  the  bottom  of 
the  ravine,  through  which  it  flows,  emptying  into  the  Ellis  some 
miles  below.  A  whole  day  should  be  taken  for  this  excursion, 
as  one  needs  at  least  four  hours  at  the  Notch. 

First  B  Hill. 
This  sightly  eminence  is  distant  from  the  village  of  Andover 
about  ten  miles.  It  is  a  very  pleasant  excursion,  and  can  easily 
be  made  in  a  day.  The  route  lies  over  the  same  road  as  to  Dunn's 
Notch  ;  but,  after  reaching  the  point  where  you  diverge  to  visit 
the  Notch,  the  road  rapidly  rises,  and  you  have  a  long,  tiresome 
climb  up  the  side  of  a  hill,  that,  so  far  as  height  is  concerned, 
might  well  be  called  a  mountain,  passing  through  a  piece  of  wood- 
land, which  in  the  fall  is  an  excellent  place  for  partridges.  At 
the  top  of  this  mountain  there  is  a  level  plateau  of  a  mile  or  more, 


THE   ANDROSCOGGIN   LAKES. 


261 


ac*ross  which  you  drive,  and  then  descend  to  another  valley,  across 
this,  and  up  anotlier  long  ascent,  and  you  reach  15  Hill.  From 
the  Dunn's  Notch  path  to  the  summit  of  B  Hill  there  is  not  a 
house  to  be  seen. 

The  road  is  so  narrow  that  the  trees  meet  in  many  places,  ef- 
fectually protecting  you  from  Old  Sol's  fiery  glances.  This  is 
the  most  hilly  of  any  of  the  di"ives  in  the  vicinity  of  Axdover; 
but  the  rojid  is  good,  and  the  "  buck  board"  makes  easy  traveling. 
Arriving  at  the  top  of  the  hill,  which  is  over  two  thousand  feet 
above  the  sea,  you  have  a  view,  fully  as  fine  as  may  be  obtained 
from  many  mountains. 

North  and  north-east  are  to  be  seen  Ujibagog  and  the  other 
Androscoggin  Lakes  ;  to  the  south  Old  Bald  Pate  rears  Ills 
frosty  head,  and  in  the  west  may  be  seen  several  of  the  White 
Mountain  peaks,  — Mount  Washington,  whose  lofty  summit  kisses 
the  clouds,  and  looks  down  upon  the  others.  With  a  fair  opera  or 
field  glass  one  is  easily  enabled  to  make  out  the  different  buildings. 
We  publish  a  variety  of  fine  stereoscopic  views  of  the  jilaces  of 
interest  mentioned  in  this  chapter. 


CHAPTER  XXIII. 


(Excursions    to  ILaite  ^Imftagog,  JHagallotoag 
Eiber,   antr  IBixbille  i^otcfj. 


JERSONS  fond  of  natural  scenery  will  find  this  one 

of  the  most  enjoyable  excursions  that  can  be  made 

from  Andover,  and  it  will  occupy  from  a  day  and 

a  half  to  two  days.     Start  some  fine  day  the  first 

thing  after  dinner,  accompanied  by  a  few  friends, 

and   drive   to   Cambridge,   N.H.,    at   the   foot  of 

Lake  Umbagog,  a  distance  of  seventeen  miles,  and  jjut  up  for 

the  night  at  the  Lakeside  Hotel,   wliere  you  are  sure  of   the 

best   of   accommodations. 

The  next  morning,  leaving  the  teams  and  driver  to  await  your 
return,  and  accompanied  liy  a  well-filled  lunch-basket,  —  don't 
forget  that  if  you  wisli  to  keep  good-natured,  — take  the  steamer 
Diamond  or  Pakmachenee,  and  make  the  round  trip  of  the  lake 
and  rivers,  a  distance  of  some  seventy  miles.  The  course  lies 
up  the  Umbagog  Lake,  the  route  across  which  has  been  already 
fully  described  in  Chapter  IV.,  to  Sunday  Cove,  thence  back 
across  the  lake,  and  down  the  Andkoscoggin  River  to  Ekrol 
Dam  Landing,  where  a  stop  is  made  long  enough  for  you  to 
inspect  the  Dam,  which  is  worth  a  visit;  thence  retrace  the  route 
four  miles  towards  the  lake,  and  enter  the  Magalloway  River, 
up  whicli  serpentine  stream  you  sail  for  eight  or  fourteen  miles, 
according  to  the  height  of  water  in  the  river,  stopping  at  the  lower 
landing  during  low  water,  from  the  vicinity  of  whicli  you  will 
obtain  many  fine  views  of  the  surrounding  country.  In  high 
water  the  steamer  runs  up  the  river  six  miles  above  the  lower 
landing,  stopping  directly  opposite  the  hotel,  and  but  a  few  rods 

from  the  door. 

(■263^  


264  FARRAR'S  ILLUSTRATED   GUIDE  TO 

The  steamer  stops  at  either  landing  one  hour,  and  you  have 
ample  time  for  a  lunch  on  board  and  a  stroll  on  shore,  or  a  din- 
ner at  the  hotel,  before  the  whistle  sounds  the  return.  If  at  the 
lower  landing  you  may  visit  the  Berlin  Mills  House,  two  miles 
distant,  by  land,  and  obtain  a  good  dinner  for  fifty  cents.  A 
team  will  take  you  to  and  from  the  boat  free  of  expense,  and  dur- 
ing the  ride  you  will  obtain  some  charming  views  of  the  moun- 
tains that  wall  in  the  valley. 

At  two  o'clock  you  "start  down  the  river,"  and,  reaching  the 
Andeoscoggin,  again  visit  Euuol  Dam;  thence  retrace  your 
course,  crossing  the  lake  to  Sunday  Cove;  from  there  you  are 
"homeward  bound,"  and  once  more  crossing  the  lake,  at  the 
most  beautiful  time  of  day  for  a  sail,  you  reach  Cambuidge  and 
the  cosey  Lakeside,  about  six  o'clock.  If  you  have  taken  the 
precaution  to  order  supper  to  be  ready  on  the  arrival  of  the  boat, 
you  can  at  once  satisfy  the  demands  of  hunger;  and,  starting 
immediately  after  supper,  you  will  reach  Andovek  about  half 
past  ten  o'clock  that  night.  If  there  is  a  moon,  nothing  can  be 
more  lovely  than  this  evening  ride  from  Umbagog  Lake  to 
Andover.  Or  you  can  stop  over  night  at  the  Lakeside  Hotel, 
at  Cambbidgb,  and  return  to  Andover  the  next  morning  after 
breakfast. 

On  all  excursions  where  you  are 'liable  to  be  out  after  dark, 
proper  care  should  be  taken  to  dress  warm,  as  the  night  air 
among  the  mountains  is  cool  and  sharp.  Plenty  of  shawls  and 
water-proofs  for  the  ladies,  and  overcoats  and  blankets  for  the 
gentlemen,  are  never  amiss. 

The  above  trip  is  a  most  enjoyable  one,  and  is  not  so  very 
expensive;  and  the  larger  the  number  the  less  the  expense  to 
each.    The  fare  on  the  steamer  will  be  $2.00  each. 

Dixville  Notch. 

To  those  who  have  never  visited  Dixville  Notch  a  trip  to  this 
wild  and  romantic  region  is  a  pleasure  long  to  be  thought  of.  It 
is  easily  reached  from  Andover,  and  the  trip  can  be  readily  made 
in  two  days,  although  three  are  preferable.  The  writer  and  a 
party  of  friends  made  the  trip  one  summer,  it  occupying  two  days, 
and  were  enabled  to  see  all  the  objects  of  interest,  although  they 
did  not  spend  as  much  time  in  the  vicinity  of  the  Notch  as  they 


THE  ANDROSCOGGIN  LAKES.  205 

would  have  liked.  The  distance  from  Fkench's  Hotel,  or  the 
Andovee  HopsE,  to  the  Dix  House  is  thirty-five  miles,  —  just  a 
pleasant  day's  ride,,  and  not  at  all  tiresome  when  done  on  a 
"buckboard." 

Leaving  the  hotels  at  Andover  early  in  the  morning,  you  drive 
half  of  the  distance,  stopping  for  lunch  bj'  the  side  of  the  road  in 
some  cool  place  in  the  woods  ;  an  hour  or  two  can  easily  be  spent 
in  sampling  the  contents  of  your  lunch-basket,  a  social  chat,  and 
cigars.  By  this  time  the  horses  will  have  been  fed  and  rested, 
and  you  resume  your  seats,  and  ride  the  remaining  distance, 
reaching  The  Notch  about  seven  o'clock.  The  next  day  can  be 
spent  in  climbing  Jacob's  Ladder,  and  viewing  the  country  from 
Table  Rock,  visiting  the  Ice  Cave,  staring  at  the  Profile,  and 
going  into  ecstasies  over  the  Flume  and  Cascades  on  the  east- 
ern side  of  the  Notch, — for  you  are  sure  to  do  it.  A  visit  to 
Columnar  Rock,  and  a  stroll  along  that  side  of  the  Notch,  is  also 
desirable.  If  piscatorially  inclined,  and  you  have  had  the  fore- 
thought to  bring  your  rod  and  book  of  flies,  you  may  stroll  a 
short  distance  from  the  hotel  and  catch  a  good  mess  of  trout  for 
supper. 

For  the  entire  distance  between  the  two  places  the  scenery  is 
charming,  and  the  ride  delightful.  The  road  is  first-rate,  with 
the  exception  of  a  short  distance  in  the  heart  of  the  Notch,  and 
that  is  not  at  all  dangerous.  Some  very  pretty  views  of  the 
Androscoggin  River  may  be  obtained  at  Errol,  at  which  place 
you  cross  the  stream  by  means  of  a  covered  bridge.  For  a  more 
particular  description  of  the  scenery  about  Dixville.  Notch  we 
refer  you  to  former  chapters  of  the  book. 

The  Lake  Umbagog  and  Dixville  Notch  trips  may  be  com- 
bined in  the  following  manner,  —  and  this  is  by  far  the  most  satis- 
factory way  to  make  the  trip  :  — 

Leave  Andover  early  in  the  afternoon,  and  drive  to  the  Lake- 
side Hotel  in  Cambridge,  which  you  reach  in  time  for  supper, 
and  where  you  will  stop  over  night.  The  next  morning  take 
passage  on  the  steamer,  and  enjoy  the  sail  on  the  lake  and  rivers, 
touching  at  the  places  mentioned  above,  and  leave  the  boat  in  the 
afternoon  at  Errol  Dam.  Have  your  teams  leave  the  Lakeside, 
in  Cambridge,  about  one  o'clock  in  the  afternoon  and  drive 
around  to  Erbol  Dam,  which  place  they  will  reach  about  half 


266  FARRAR'S  ILLUSTRATED   GUIDE. 

past  two  or  three,  making  sharp  connection  with  the  steamer. 
Then  exchanging  the  boat  for  your  buckboarcl,  a  drive  of  two 
hours  will  bring  you  to  the  Dix  House  on  thfl  western  side  of  the 
Notch,  where  you  stop  over  night.  Spend  the  next  forenoon 
there,  which  will  give  you  abundant  time  to  see  all  of  interest ; 
order  a  twelve-o'clock  dinner,  and  leave  the  Notch  at  one  o'clock, 
sharp,  arriving  at  Ebrol  Dam  at  three  P.M.,  in  time  to  connect 
with  the  steamer.  As  the  boat  runs  to  Sunday  Cove  before  going 
down  the  lake  to  Cambridge,  you  will  have  a  delightful  sail  of 
twenty-two  miles,  and  your  teams  will  reach  the  Lakeside  as 
soon  as  you  do.  After  supper  you  can  drive  to  Axdover,  or  stop 
at  the  Lakeside  over  night,  and  leave  the  next  morning  after 
breakfast,  reaching  Andover  at  noon. 

The  two  trips  may  be  made  in  this  manner  in  three  or  four 
days,  and  the  expense  will  be  less  than  if  they  are  made  separately. 

Rumford  Falls. 

These  celebrated  falls,  the  highest  in  New  England,  are  situ- 
ated south-east  from  the  village  of  Andover.  The  road  is  excel- 
lent the  whole  distance,  and  the  drive  very  pleasant.  You  are  in 
sight  of  the  Ellis  or  Androscoggin  Rivers  the  most  of  the  way, 
and  the  falls  are  six  miles  below  the  Rumford  ferry.  The  full 
tide  of  the  Androscoggin  makes  a  descent  at  the  falls  of  one  hun- 
dred and  sixty  feet  in  three  pitches,  and  within  the  space  of  a 
quarter  of  a  mile.  There  is  one  sheer  descent  of  seventy  feet. 
In  the  spring  when  the  logs  are  going  down  the  river  it  is  an 
inspiring  sight  to  see  them  leap  the  falls. 

Still  another  way  to  reach  these  falls  from  Andover  is  to  cross 
the  Ellis  River,  and  drive  over  the  road  to  Mexico,  going 
through  RoxBURY  Notch,  a  locality  of  no  mean  pretensions,  and 
afterwards  follow  the  road  on  the  east  side  of  the  Androscoggin 
until  you  reach  the  falls.  The  distance  this  way  is  but  nine 
miles,  and  would  be  preferable  to  some  on  that  account.  Our 
idea  of  this  drive  is  to  go  by  the  way  of  Rosbury  Notch,  and 
come  back  by  the  other  road,  thus  giving  greater  variety  to  the 
excursion. 

Ten  miles  from  Rcufobd  Falls  is  • 


268 


FARKAR'S    ILLUSTRATED   GUIDE. 


Mount  Zircon, 

a  very  prominent  peak,  and  one  which  is  well  worth  visiting. 
Some  of  the  finest  views  in  New  England  may  be  seen  from  its 
summit.  Several  years  ago  a  large  hotel  stood  on  the  top  of  the 
mountain,  but  it  was  destroyed  by  fire.  At  the  base  of  the  moun- 
tain is  the  famous  Mount  Zircon  Mineral  Spring,  whose  waters 
have  performed  some  remarkable  cures.  The  water  is  free  to 
drink  to  parties  visiting  the  spring.  It  may  be  obtained  by  the 
barrel  from  F.  T.  Stevens,  Bryant's  Pond,  Me.  It  can  easily  be 
visited  in  one  day  from  Andover,  returning  the  next  day,  and 
stopping  at  Rcmford  Falls  on  the  way  back. 


CHAPTER    XXIV. 


®^rout-iftsl)ing. 


OST  of  the  streams  about  Andover  abound  in 
trout.  Among  those  whicli  we  call  special 
attention  to,  having  found  from  practical  ex- 
perience that  they  are  favorite  resorts  of  the 
S  spotted  beauties,  are  Black  Brook,  Saw- 
yer's Brook,  Old  Maid  Brook,  Frye's 
Brook,  and  Burroughs'  Brook.  Trout  may  be  found  in  all 
these  waters  at  any  time  during  the  year,  the  fish  averaging  from 
one-fourth  to  two  pounds  in  weight. 

These  streams  arc  all  within  easy  walking  or  riding  distance 
from  the  hotel,  and  are  fished  without  difficulty,  a  pair  of  long- 
legged  rubber  boots  being  the  only  requisite  beside  proper  fish- 
ing-tackle. 

Apropos  of  brook  trout-fishing,  the  following,  from  Scott's 
"  Fishing  in  American  Waters,"  is  worth  reading  :  — 

"  Questions  in  relation  to  fishing  H^  or  down  a  stream  should 
be  decided  by  the  condition  of  the  stream  and  its  borders.  While 
casting  from  the  shore  it  makes  very  little  difference  which  way 
the  stream  is  fished ;  but  in  wading  it  is  best  to  fish  up  stream  be- 
cause it  does  not  roil  the  water,  and  there  is  not  so  great  liability 
to  alarm  the  fish.  In  making  a  cast  it  is  always  best  to  draw  the 
flies  across  the  current,  for  then  the. drop-flies  will  play  clear  of 
the  casting-line.  This  is  the  opinion  of  most  good  fly-fishers. 
First,  cast  up  stream  along  the  shore,  and,  if  the  stream  be  not 
too  wide,  cast  to  the  farther  shore,  drawing  j'our  flies  across  the 
stream,  but  not  too  fast,  lest  the  trout  become  suspicious.  In 
striking,  you  cannot  be  too  quick  when  fishing  up  a  stream.  Cast 
first  near  the  shore  ;  then  a  yard  or  two  farther  off;  ne.xt,  across 
the  stream.     If  you  get  not  a  rise,  take  a  step  or  two  up  the 

stream  and  repeat.     Continue  doing  so  until  a  doubt  arises  as  to 

(269) 


On  a  Buckboaku. 


THE   ANDROSCOGGIN  LAKES.  271 

whether  the  trout  admire  your  cast;  then  replace  one  fly  by 
another  of  different  color  from  any  on  your  cast.  If  that  does  not 
take,  after  presenting  it  several  times,  take  it  off  and  try  another 
extreme  in  color.  Keep  changing  until  you  hit  the  fancy  of  the 
trout.  When  you  have  found  the  fly  that  the  trout  admire,  change 
your  other  flies  (if  you  fish  with  three)  to  those  of  colors  in  slight 
relief  to  the  taking  one ;  that  is,  put  on  one  a  trifle  darker  and  the 
other  a  little  lighter  in  shade.  Anglers  are  not  so  high  a  re- 
move above  the  rest  of  mankind  as  not  to  be  susceptible  to  a 
slight  influence  from  the  baser  sentiments  of  humanity;  but  I 
have  actually  seen  a  man  no  self-willed  as  to  fish  all  day  without 
a  rise,  '  because,'  as  he  said,  *  he  was  determined  to  bring  the 
trout  to  his  terms.' 

' '  All  kinds  of  angling  call  for  the  exercise  of  patience ;  but  fly- 
fisliing  requires  the  gift  of  genius.  Do  not  fish  with  too  long  a 
cast.  In  fishing  a  creek  up  stream,  thirty  to  forty-five  feet  are 
quite  sufficient.  In  striking  let  it  be  with  sufficient  force  to  fasten 
the  hook  in  his  jaw;  but  play  your  fish  most  gingerly,  and  even 
tenderly,  but  not  so  as  to  give  him  slack  line,  or  he  will  disgorge 
the  hook.  One  of  the  principal  causes  of  losing  large  fish  is  the 
being  in  too  great  a  hurry  to  land  them.  If  the  hook  is  well  fast- 
ened, the  more  delicately  your  fish  is  played  the  better ;  for  snub- 
bing a  fish  hard  at  all  points  wears  an  orifice  in  its  jaw  from 
which  the  hook  falls  by  the  mere  turning  of  the  fish.  It  is  true 
that  the  trout  has  a  good. mouth  to  hold  the  hook;  but  the  hook 
nmst  first  be  well-fastened  to  hold,  and  then  the  orifice  made  in 
ho6king  should  not  be  made  larger  in  playing,  if  possible  to  avoid 
it." 

Another  writer  says  :  — 

"  To  follow  trout-fishing  with  success  requires  on  the  part  of 
the  angler  much  care  and  study  as  well  as  natural  aptitude  for  the 
business.  The  trout  is  not  a  fish  to  be  trifled  with.  He  must  be 
approached  cautiously  and  deceived  with  deliberation.  Although 
possessed  of  a  shark-like  appetite,  he  is  a  stickler  for  form,  and 
objects  to  unseasonable  food  with  the  pertinacity  of  a  religious 
devotee.  When  he  wants  flies  the  plumpest  of  angle-worms  may 
be  dragged  before  his  very  nose  without  quickening  the  play  of 
liis  pectoral  fins,  or  the  easy  sway  of  his  tail,  and  when  it  is  no 
longer  fly-time  with  him,  the  very  king  of  gray  hackles  might  flut- 


272  FAliKAR'S  ILLUSTRATED   GUIDE  TO 

ter  and  flap  untouched  within  a  finger's  length  of  the  lily-pad 
wliich  serves  as  his  shelter.  But  there  is  one  dainty  he  never  re- 
jects. Be  it  chub,  or  shiner,  or  even  the  small  fry  of  his  own 
species,  this  handsome  cannibal,  like  the  pelican  that  he  is,  makes 
haste  to  take  it  in  whenever  opportunity  offers.  It  is  rare,  indeed, 
when  a  big  trout's  stomach  fails  to  yield  his  captor  evidence  of  a 
fish-dinner.  This  weakness  of  the  trout  is  often  turned  to  good 
account  by  parties  who  bait  strong  hooks  with  live  fish,  and  leave 
them  '  set '  in  the  water  over  night.  Such  fishing  is  condemned, 
however,  as  unsportsmanlike,  and  no  reputable  fisherman  likes  to 
be  known  as  practising  it.  For  that  matter,  too,  trolling  is 
looked  upon  as  not  exactly  the  square  thing,  the  rule  of  fishcraft 
being  that  the  fly  ranks  first  in  honor,  then  rod-fishing  with  a  sin- 
gle hook.  Both  of  these  styles  call  for  judgment,  patience,  and 
some  skill,  whereas  trolling,  and  worse  still,  the  use  of  gang- 
hooks  gives  the  fish  no  chance  for  his  life.  The  trout  naturally 
runs  to  salt  water  in  the  winter,  and  this  is  what  gives  the  Sand- 
wich fish  and  those  of  Nova  Scotia  their  exquisite  flavor ;  while 
the  greater  abundance  of  food  they  find  there  keeps  them  plump 
and  well-flavored.  In  inland  places  the  fish  pass  the  cold  months 
in  the  deepest  water  they  can  find,  and  with  the  opening  of  spring 
may  be  found  at  the  mouths  of  streams,  were  bugs  and  worms 
are  likely  to  be  more  plentiful  than  farther  out  in  the  pond  or 
lake,  as  the  case  may  be.  As  the  season  advances  and  the  water 
grows  warmer  they  run  up  the  streams;  but  in  the  hot  and  sultry 
days  of  July  and  August  they  fall  back  to  deep,  cool  pools.  They 
can't  live  long  in  water  as  warm  as  seventy  degrees.  The  spawning 
season  is  in  October,  and  the  water  is  then  somewhat  cooler 
than  in  mid-summer,  and  they  run  into  the  sandy  shallows  of  their 
favorite  breeding.grounds  without  inconvenience  from  the  heat. 
The  generally  recognized  fishing  season  extends  from  May  1st,  to 
October  Ist,  but  it  is  not  until  about  the  middle  of  May  that  the 
fish  bite  very  freely.  During  the  whole  of  this  month  bait-fishing 
is  in  order,  the  fish  being  as  a  rule  reluctant  to  rise  to  a  fly. 
June  is  the  best  month  of  the  year  for  trout-fishing,  and  then  it  is 
that  the  deluded  creatures  snap  at  imitation  millers  and  what-nots, 
as  the  manufacturer's  skill  produces  them,  and  soon  find  them- 
selves weak  and  bleeding,  enclosed  by  the  relentless  meshes  of 
the  landing-net,  and  then  are  left  to  gasp  their  lives  away  on  a 


274  FAKllAR'S  ILLUSTRATED   GUIDE  TO 

sun-scorched  raft  or  in  the  dungeon  of  a  fish-basket.  In  July  the 
festive  fisher  chases  the  still  more  festive  grasshopper,  and  finds 
him  good  bait  when  caught.  But  the  hopper  is  rather  a  dweller 
among  the  hay-fields  of  the  cultivated  land  than  a  sipper  of  dew 
in  tlie  wilderness,  and  it  is,  after  all,  the  careless  swain  who  fol- 
lows the  winding  brook  through  grassy  meadows  who  turns  the 
song  of  insect  glee  to  sighing.  Piscatorial  poetry  requires  a 
meadow  as  a  background.  There  are  the  primroses,  the  violets, 
the  buttercups,  the  tiger  lilies,  the  ox-eye  daisies  (pretty  to  talk 
about,  but  the  farmer's  pest),  the  grassy  banks,  and  all  the  gor- 
geous livery  of  nature  shorn  of  her  wildness,  but,  as  a  rule,  no 
trout.  He  is  a  fish  of  the  shade,  and  the  wilder  the  rush  of  water 
the  happier  he  is." 

We  do  not  know  of  any  greater  pleasure  than  to  start  some  fine 
morning  from  the  hotel,  and  ride  to  one  of  these  brooks.  Leaving 
the  team,  and  carrying  your  fishing-tackle  and  lunch-basket,  you 
strike  the  stream,  where  the  eddies  curl  around  the  roots  of  some 
old  tree.  Obtaining  a  good  position,  you  make  a  cast,  your  fly 
strikes  the  water,  dances  for  a  moment  on  the  surface  of  the 
swiftly  flowing  stream,  and,  presto !  you  see  a  spotted  beauty  dart 
like  a  flash,  and  off  he  goes  with  your  hook  in  his  mouth.  A  few 
moments  of  anxious  suspense,  and  he  lies  quivering  in  your  bas- 
ket, doomed  to  the  ignoble  end  of  sizzling  in  a  frying-pan.  Many 
more  such  scenes  as  this,  and  then  a  withdrawal  to  some  umbra- 
geous shade,  where  beneath  the  sheltering  branches  of  a  fine  old 
tree,  you  go  through  your  lunch-basket,  with  appetite  heightened 
by  the  morning's  sport.  Lighting  a  cigar,  after  every  crumb  of 
food  has  disappeared,  you  indulge  in  dolce  far  nienie,  and  watch 
the  clouds  as  they  sail  lazily  through  the  sky,  or  build  air-castles 
in  the  smoke  of  your  Havana,  as  it  curls  gracefully  above  your 
head,  and  is  wafted  into  dim  distance  by  the  sweet  breath  of  the 
summer  zephyrs. 

But,  lunch  over,  you  again  take  to  the  brook,  and  try  every 
pool  and  rapid  that  has  before  escaped  your  notice,  and,  after  a 
repetition  of  the  morning's  sport,  with  your  basket  well  filled  with 
the  sweetest  of  all  fish,  the  spotted  brook-trout,  you  tramp  wearily 
back  and  wait,  by  the  side  of  tl^;  road,  the  return  of  the  team  to 
take  you  back  to  the  hotel,  which  never  looks  more  inviting  than 
at  the  close  of  a  hard  day's  fisliing,  where,  once  arrived,  you  re- 


THE  ANDROSCOGGIN  LAKES. 


275 


count  the  incidents  of  the  day  to  a  crowd  of  sympathetic  listeners, 
who  are  held  spellbound  until  the  welcome  call  to  supper  dis- 
solves the  charm. 

"  Where,  in  many  straggling  group, 

Gnarled  and  crooked  willows 
By  a  chaffing  streamlet  stoop, 
And  their  yellow  branches  droop, 

Tow'i'd  its  tiny  billows; 
Near  the  banks  are  little  whirls,  — 

Whirls  of  fretted  water,  — 
And  beneath  those  rings  of  pearls 

Trout  delicious  caught  are." 

But,  although  trout  are  plenty  in  all  these  brooks,  they  are  not 
always  to  be  caught,  for,  as  one  of  the  natives  say,  "drefful  no- 
tional critturs  traout  be,  oUuz  bitin'  at  whodger  haiint  got.  Or- 
ful  contrary  critturs  — just  like  fimmels.  Yer  can  cotcli  a  fimmel 
with  a  feather,  if  she's  terbe  cotched;  ef  she  haiint  ter  be  cotched 
yet  may  scoop  ther  hul  world  dry  and  yer  haiint  got  her.  Jess  so 
traout." 

The  trout-fishing  at  the  lakes  is  of  course  more  exciting  than 
brook-fishing.  For  instance,  below  the  Upper  Dam  you  throw 
your  fly  on  top  of  the  white  water,  and  have  it  seized  by  a  ten- 
pounder  instead  of  a  baby  trout  six  inches  long ;  you  strike  hard, 
and  the  fish  darts  away,  while  fathom  after  fathom  of  your  line 
unreels,  and  you  begin  to  tremble  for  fear  he  will  never  stop ;  he 
turns,  and  you  begin  to  reel  in,  carefully  and  watchfully,  keeping 
his  head  well  up  to  the  surface,  and  after  many  moments  of  ex- 
citing anxiety  you  get  him  near  enough  to  successfully  use  your 
net.  It  is  no  small  job,  to  take  an  eight  or  ten-pound  trout  out  of 
swift  water,  with  a  light  rod.  and  not  break  your  rod  or  lose  your 
line.  It  requires  skill,  patience,  and  practice  to  do  it,  but  isn't  it 
sport?  How  your  eyes  sparkle,  your  cheeks  flush,  and  how  you 
quiver  with  the  excitement  of  the  moment,  while  battling  with 
one  of  these  gigantic  specimens ;  and  what  a  look  of  disgust 
quickly  steals  across  your  face,  if,  after  all  your  best  eflbrts,  you 
lose  your  fish !     Certainly,  it  is  provoking. 


276  FARRAR'S   ILLUSTRATED   GUIDE   TO 


NEW  ROUTE  TO   PARMACHENEE  LAKE. 

During  the  spring  of  1884  Mr.  H.  W.  Fickett,  who  is  now 
proprietor  of  Camp  Aziscolios,  at  Aziscohos  Falls,  formeriy  run 
by  Fred  Flint,  cut  a  plain  and  direct  trail  from  the  head  of  the 
Falls,  where  his  house  is  located,  to  the  head  of  Molechunkamunk 
Lake,  ending  at  a  point  west  of  Mr.  Whittier's  camp. 

Parties  wishing  to  visit  Parmachenee  Lake  in  future  can  take 
the  steamer  at  the  South  Arm,  or  Middle  Dam,  on  Lake  Welo- 
kennebacook,  and  be  carried  directly  to  the  trail,  enabling  them, 
if  on  the  morning  boat,  to  reach  Fickett's  to  dinner,  or  by  the 
afternoon  boat,  reach  Fickett's  to  supper.  Tlie  trail  has  been 
cut  with  a  great  deal  of  care,  and  any  one  can  cross  it  without 
danger  of  straying  from  the  path.  It  will  not  be  necessary  for 
parties  to  take  a  guide  with  them  in  crossing  this  carry,  unless 
they  prefer  it.  The  distance  from  Molechunkamunk  Lake  to 
Fickett's  by  this  trail  is  six  miles.  Mr.  Fickett  will  keep  a 
plenty  of  good  boats  at  Camp  Aziscohos,  and  parties  leaving  the 
South  Arm,  Middle  Dam,  or  Upper  Dam,  in  the  morning,  can 
reach  Parmachenee  Lake  the  same  night.  This  will  be  found 
the  shortest,  easiest,  and  cheapest  way  of  reaching  the  Northern 
Magalloway  Wilderness. 


CHAPTER  XXV. 


<$awe  and  (Saw^-Jiisft  ^nm  oi  iU  ^tnU  of  pew 


CHAPTER  1. 

nSH  AND  GAME  COMMISSIONERS  AND  WARDENS,  AND  THEIR  DUTIES. 

Section  1.  The  governor,  with  the  advice  of  the  council,  shall  appoint  a 
board  of  commissioners  on  fish  and  game,  not  exceeding  three  in  number,  who 
shall  hold  their  offices  for  five  years  from  the  date  of  their  appointment  (unless 
sooner  removed),  for  the  purpose  of  restocking  such  of  our  waters  with  sal- 
mon,  shad,  and  alewives  as  were  formerly  frequented  by  those  fish,  .and  intro- 
ducing the  land-locked  salmon,  so  called,  black  bass,  pike  perch,  white  perch, 
white  fish,  or  any  other  desirable  fish  into  our  inland  waters,  and  enforcing  the 
laws  relating  to  fish  and  game;  and  said  board  of  commissioners  is  hereby 
authorized  to  cooperate  with  the  commissioners  of  other  States,  having  joint 
interests  with  this  6t;ite,  for  the  purpose  of  restocking  the  rivers,  streams,  and 
other  waters  with  salmon,  shad,  and  other  desirable  fish.  The  board  of  fish 
commissioners,  as  now  constituted,  is  hereby  continued,  and  invested  with  all 
the  powers  and  charged  with  all  the  duties  of  fish  and  game  commissioners 
under  the  general  laws. 

Sect.  2.  They  shall  examine  the  principal  inland  waters  of  the  State,  and 
determine  what  new  varieties  of  fish  shall  be  introduced  into  the  several 
waters.  They  may  take  fish  of  any  kind,  at  any  time  or  in  any  manner  they 
may  choose,  for  the  purposes  of  science,  cultivation,  and  dissemination,  and 
may  permit  other  persons  to  take  fish  at  any  time  and  in  any  manner  for  the 
same  purposes,  anything  in  this  or  any  other  chapter  to  the  contrary  notwith- 
standing. 

Sect.  3.  Each  of  said  commissioners  may  personally,  or  by  deputy  appoint- 
ed in  writing  under  his  hand,  enforce  all  laws  relating  to  inland  fisheries,  and 
may  seize  and  remove,  summarily,  if  need  be,  all  obstructions  to  the  passage  of 
migratory  fish  illegally  used,  except  dams,  mills,  or  machinery,  at  the  expense 
of  the  person  using  or  maintaitiing  the  same. 

Sect.  4.  Every  town  or  city  council  in  this  State  shall,  at  some  regular 
meeting,  choose  one  or  more  fish  and  game  wardens,  whose  duty  it  shall  be  to 
see  that  the  laws  for  the  prcscrv'ation  of  fish  in  the  waters  within  the  limits  of 
such  town  or  city  or  upon  which  it  may  border,  and  also  the  laws  for  the  pres- 
ervation of  game  within  such  limits,  are  duly  observed,  and  such  wardens 
shall  be  sworn  to  the  faithful  performance  of  their  duties. 

Sect.  5.  It  shall  be  the  duty  of  the  fish  and  game  commissioners  to  appoint 
one  or  more  fish  and  game  wardens  in  each  town  or  city  of  this  State  including 
or  bordering  upon  any  body  of  water  in  which  trout  or  other  fish  are  prohib- 
ited from  being  taken  during  any  specified  time  or  times,  whenever  such  war- 
dens have  not  been  elected  in  such  towns  or  cities ;  said  wardens  to  hold  their 
eaid  appointments  until  such  town  or  city  shall  elect  such  wardens,  or  during 
the  pleasure  of  the  commissioners.  Such  wardens,  so  appointed,  shall  receive 
a  warrant  from  said  commissioners,  and  shall  be  sworn  to  the  faithful  perform- 
ance of  their  duties. 

(277) 


278  FARRAR'S   ILLUSTRATED   GUIDE  TO 

Sect.  6.  It  shall  be  tbe  duty  of  said  wardens  to  observe  and  examine,  and 
to  make  complaint  before  some  justice  of  the  peace  of  all  infringements  of  laws 
made  for  tlio  preservation  of  (ish  or  game  in  their  respective  towns  or  cities, 
and  to  prosecute  the  same  to  final  judgment. 

Sect.  7.  Said  commissioners  arc  Lcrcby  empowered  to  appoint,  in  writing 
under  their  hands,  special  detectives,  not  exceeding  five  in  number,  for  the 
purpose  of  sccunng  the  enforcement  of  the  fish  and  game  laws  of  the  State,  at 
such  times  as  in  their  judgment  they  may  deem  necessary;  the  expense  of  said 
detectives  not  to  exceed  two  hundred  and  fifty  dollars  per  annum.  The  fish 
and  game  commissioners,  and  their  deputies  and  detectives,  and  the  wardens 
shall  have  all  the  powers  in  enforcing  the  fish  and  game  laws  of  the  State,  and 
all  laws  relating  to  fisheries,  that  are  now  vested  in  police  officers  and  consta- 
bles of  this  State. 

Sect.  8.  It  shall  be  the  duty  of  the  fish  commissioners  to  examine  from  time 
to  time  all  w.iters  in  this  State  in  which  salmon  or  otlicr  fish  hivvc  heretofore 
been  or  may  hereafter  he  placed,  and  they  are  hereby  empowered,  by  an  order 
In  writinjr  duly  published  and  posted,  to  close  any  such  waters  against  all  fish- 
ing  of  every  kind  for  such  time  us  the  preservation  of  the  fish  so  placed  iu  such 
waters  may  require,  not  oxcccdintr  throe  VL-ars.  A  copy  of  such  order  sliail  be 
published  in  some  newspaper  printed  In  the  county,  if  any,  otherwise  in  some 
adjoining  county,  and  i>osted  i:i  two  or  more  public  places,  as  near  said  waters 
as  may  be,  in  each  town  In  which  said  waters  or  any  part  thereof  are  located, 
at  least  one  week  before  such  order  shall  be  enforced;  and  tliis  shall  bo  sufli- 
cient  notice  i;i  M  cases.  Any  person  violating  this  law.  or  any  order  made 
under  it  by  said  commissioners,  shall  be  lined  not  exceeding  twenty  dollars,  or 
imprisoned  not  exceeding  sixty  days,  or  both,  for  each  offence.  And  the  having 
in  posse.ssion  any  fish,  or  any  fishing  tackle  or  apparatus,  by  any  person  in  the 
immediate  vicinity  of  such  waters,  after  such  order  takes  cflcct,  shall  ho  prima- 
facie  evidence  of  a  violation  by  such  person  of  this  law  and  of  such  order  made 
by  said  commissioners. 

Sect.  9.  Any  town  or  city  in  this  State  may,  at  any  meeting  duly  notified 
and  liolden  for  that  purpose,  by  major  vote  of  such  town  or  of  the  city  govern- 
ment of  such  city,  prohibit  fishing  iu  any  waters  exclusively  in  such  town  or 
city,  for  any  period  not  exceeding  three  years,  for  the  purpose  of  stocking 
said  waters  with  any  kind  of  desirable  (ish;  and  any  violation  of  such  prohibi- 
tion by  any  person  shall  be  prosecuted  by  the  warden,  and.  If  proved  to  the 
satisfaction  of  the  magistrate,  shall  be  punished  in  the  same  way  as  is  provided 
in  the  preceding  section. 

Sect.  10.  All  persons  are  hereby  forbidden  to  tike,  catch,  or  fish  for  any 
fish  in  any  w.ay  upon  the  Pcmigewassct  river,  near  the  State  hatching-house  in 
Iloldemess,  anywhere  between  the  abutments  of  the  npper  dam  on  Livermore 
Falls,  80  called,  in  Campton,  and  a  point  on  said  river  half  a  mile  below  said 
abutments,  southerly,  measuring  by  an  air  line.  Any  person  violating  the  pro- 
visions of  this  section  shall  pay  a  fine  not  exceeding  twenty  dollars,  or  be 
imprisoned  not  exceeding  sixty  days,  or  both,  for  every  such  violation. 

Sect.  11.  All  fines  paid  tinder  the  provisions  of  this  chapter  shall  be  one- 
half  for  the  use  of  the  prosecutor  and  the  other  half  for  the  use  of  the  town, 
city,  or  county. 

Sect.  12.  Said  commissioners  shall  make  a  full  annual  report  to  the  gov- 
ernor and  council  of  all  their  doings,  together  with  a  statement  of  all  expenses, 
on  or  before  the  tenth  day  of  June  of  each  year.  They  shall  be  entitled  to 
receive  their  traveling  and  other  expenses  necessarily  connected  with  the  dis- 
charge  of  their  duties,  and  such  compensation  for  their  services  as  may  be 
determined  and  allowed  by  the  governor  and  council,  who  ahall  audit  their 
accounts. 

Sect.  13.  Said  fish  commissioners  shall  have  full  power  and  control  of  all 
fisliways  in  this  State,  and  shall  direct  when  and  for  how  many  months  in  each 
year  said  tishways  shall  be  kept  open. 


THE   ANDROSCOGGIN   LAKES.  279 

CHAPTER  II. 

GAME    LAWS, —BIRDS. 

Section  1.  If  any  person  shall,  at  any  season  of  the  year,  take,  kill,  or 
destroy  any  of  the  birds  called  robins,  thrushes,  larks,  bluebirds,  sparrows, 
finches,  buntings,  martins,  orioles,  swallows,  fly-catchers,  warblers,  tanagers, 
bobolinks,  vireos,  nut-hatches,  creepers,  wood-peckers,  humming-birds,  or  any 
other  of  the  song  birds  or  insectivorous  birds,  lie  shall  be  punished  by  n  fine  of 
five  dollars  for  each  and  every  such  bird  so  taken,  killed,  or  destroyed,  or  by 
imprisonment  not  exceeding  "thirty  days,  or  both;  but  this  section  shall  not 
apply  to  any  one  collecting  specimens  for  the  purpose  of  illustrating  natural 
history  in  any  educational  institution  which  supports  a  cabinet  for  that  pur- 
pose, in  charge  of  a  curator,  under  whose  direction  only  such  birds  may  be 
taken,  killed,  or  destroyed.  Any  resident  of  the  State,  over  eighteen  years  of 
age,  with  the  sole  purpose  of  furnishing  specimens  for  a  cabinet,  may  receive 
from  the  secretary  of  the  board  of  agriculture  a  permit  for  that  purpose  only, 
revocable  lor  good  cause,  exempting  him  from  the  provisions  of  this  section  : 
Provided  he  shall  furnish  from  the  selectmen  of  the  town  or  mayor  of  the  city 
in  which  he  resides,  a  cerliflcate,  iudorsed  by  one  of  the  fish  and  game  commis- 
sioners, or  a  member  of  the  board  of  agriculture  that  he  is  a  proper  person  to 
receive  such  a  permit. 

Sect.  2.  If  any  person  shall,  between  the  first  day  of  February  and  the  first 
diiy  of  August  of  each  year,  take,  kill,  or  destroy  any  of  the  birds  called  plover, 
yellow-legs,  sandpipers,  woodcock,  ducks,  or  rails,  or  shall,  between  the  first 
day  of  February  and  the  first  day  of  September  of  each  yo.ir,  take,  kill,  or  de- 
stroy any  ruft'ed  grouse,  partridges,  or  quails,  or  shall,  within  the  respective 
times  aforesaid,  sell,  buy,  or  have  in  possession  any  of  said  birds,  he  shall  be 
punished  by  a  fine  of  ten  dollars  for  each  bird  so  taken,  killed,  or  destroyed, 
bought,  sold,  or  had  in  possession,  or  by  imprisonment  not  exceeding  sixty 
days,  or  both. 

bECT.  3.  No  person  shall,  at  any  time  or  place  within  this  State,  take  any 
grouse,  partridge,  or  quail,  with  any  trap  or  snare;  and  any  person  so  ojfend- 
ing  shall  be  punished  by  a  fine  of  ten  dollars  for  each  bird  so  taken,  or  by 
imprisonment  not  exceeding  sixty  d.iys,  or  both.  The  penalties  provided  in 
this  and  the  two  preceding  sections  shall  be  one-half  for  the  use  of  the  prose- 
cutor andthe  other  half  for  the  town,  city,  or  county. 

Sect.  4.  Any  person  or  persons,  corporation  or  company,  owning  or  occu- 
pying land,  may  forbid  the  destruction  of  birds  on  the  same,  at  any  season  of 
the  year,  by  posting  a  printed  or  written  notice  to  that  efiect,  in  two  public 
places  in  the  town,  and  also  on  the  lands;  and  any  person  taking  or  destroying 
birds  on  such  land,  in  defiance  of  said  prohibition,  shall  be  subject  to  a  penalty, 
for  the  use  of  the  owner  or  occupier  of  such  land,  of  one  dollar  for  each  bird  so 
destroyed,  in  addition  to  the  pcn.alties  named  in  the  preceding  sections,  which 
may  be  recovered  in  the  same  proceeding  in  which  the  fine  is  assessed. 

Sect.  5.  If  any  person  shall  designedly  take  from  the  nest  and  destroy  the 
eggs  or  young  of  any  of  the  birds  called  robins,  thrushes,  larks,  bluebirds, 
sparrows,  martins,  woodpeckers,  bobolinks,  yellow-birds,  linnets,  flycatchers, 
or  warblers,  snipes,  woodcock,  plover,  rails,  yellow-legs,  or  sandpipers,  par- 
tridges, grouse,  quails,  or  wild  pigeons,  he  shall  forfeit  and  pay  for  every  egg 
or  young  of  any  of  said  birds  so  taken  and  destroyed,  the  sum  of  two  dollars, 
to  the  use  of  the  prosecutor. 

CHAPTER   m. 

GAME  LAWS,  —  ANIMALS. 

Section  1.  If  any  person  shall,  between  the  first  day  of  December  of  each 
year  and  the  first  day  of  September  in  the  year  following,  by  shooting,  trapping, 
or  otherwise,  capture,  kill,  or  destroy  any  deer,  moose,  or  caribou  within  the 
limits  of  this  SUite,  he  shall  be  punished  by  a  fine  of  not  less  than  twenty-five 
dollars  nor  more  than  fifty  dollars  for  every  such  animal  so  captured,  killed,  or 
destroyed,  or  by  imprisonment  not  exceeding  six  months,  or  both. 


280  FARRAR'S   ILLUSTRATED  GUIDE  TO 

Sect.  2.  If  any  person  eball,  in  any  way,  between  the  first  day  of  April  and 
the  fifteenth  day  of  October,  In  any  year,  kill  or  destroy  any  mink,  beaver, 
sable,  otter,  or  nsbcr,  he  shall  be  punished  by  a  fine  of  twenty-five  dollars  for 
each  animal  so  killed  or  destroyed,  or  by  imprisonment  not  exceeding  sixty 
days,  or  both. 

Sect.  3.  If  any  person  shall,  between  the  first  day  of  January  and  the  first 
day  of  September,  In  any  year,  take,  kill  or  destroy  any  raccoon  or  coon,  or 
grey  squirrel,  he  shall  b»  punished  by  a  fine  of  five  dollars  for  each  animal  so 
killed  or  destroyed,  or  by  imprisonment  not  exceeding  thirty  days,  or  both. 

Sect.  4.  If  any  person  shall  in  any  way,  kill  or  destroy  any  of  the  animals 
known  as  hares,  rabbits,  or  muskrats,  between  the  first  day  of  April  and  the 
first  day  of  September,  In  each  year  he  shall  be  punished  by  a  fine  of  five  dollars 
for  every  such  offence,  or  by  imprisonment  not  exceeding  thirty  days,  or  both. 

Sect.  5.  If  any  person  shall  expose  poison  for  the  purpose  of  destroying  any 
animals,  except  rats  or  other  vermin.  In  his  own  buildings,  or  on  his  potato 
crops,  he  shall  be  punished  by  a  fine  of  fifty  dollars  for  every  such  offence,  or 
by  imprisonment  not  exceeding  six  months,  or  both. 

Sect.  6.  If  any  person  has  or  shall  have  in  his  possession  the  carcass  or 
hide,  or  any  part  thereof,  of  any  such  animal,  between  the  times  in  which  the 
killing  of  such  animals  Is  prohibited,  it  shall  be  prima-facie  evidence  that  he 
has  hunted  and  killed  the  same  contrary  to  law. 

Sect.  7.  If  any  railroad  or  express  company,  or  other  common  carrier  in 
this  State,  or  any  of  their  servants  or  agents,  while  in  their  employ,  shall  have 
in  their  possession,  for  transportation  or  any  other  purpose,  any  of  the  birds 
mentioned  in  section  two  of  the  preceding  chapter,  or  any  of  the  animals  men- 
tioned in  section  one  of  this  chapter,  during  the  period  while  such  birds  or  ani- 
mals are  protected  by  law,  said  railroad  or  express  company  or  other  common 
carrier  shall  be  punished  by  a  fine  not  exceeding  one  hundred  dollars  for  each 
offence.  But  such  company  or  common  carrier  may  show  in  defence  that  such 
birds  or  animals  came  in  the  regular  course  of  business  into  their  possession 
for  transit  through  this  State,  from  'some  place  without  the  State,  where  the 
killing  of  the  same  was  lawful. 

Sect.  8.  All  fines,  forfcitares,  and  penalties  prescribed  in  this  chapter  shall 
be  one-half  to  the  use  of  the  prosecutor,  and  the  residue  to  the  town,  city,  or 
county  where  the  trial  and  conviction  are  had. 


CHAPTER  IV. 

nSH  IiAWS,  VIOLATIONS  AND  PENAZ/ITEfl. 

Section  1.  If  any  person  shall,  at  any  time,  catch,  kill,  or  destroy  in  any 
manner  any  fish  in  any  pond,  reservoir,  or  spring  prepared  or  used  for  the 
purpose  of  breeding,  growing,  or  preserving  the  same,  or  from  any  brook  or 
stream  running  through  or  supplying  such  pond  or  reservoir  on  land  owned  or 
leased  for  the  purpose  aforesaid,  or  shall  break  down  any  dam  or  embankment 
of  the  same,  or  shall  in  any  way  poison  or  pollute  such  water,  or  shall  place 
therein  any  fish,  or  the  roe,  spawn,  or  fry  of  the  same  without  permission  of 
the  owner  or  lessee  of  the  land  upon  or  through  which  such  waters  stand  or 
flow,  he  shall  for  every  such  offence  be  fined  not  exceeding  fifty  dollars,  or  be 
Imprisoned  not  exceeding  six  months,  or  both;  provided,  that  said  owners  or 
lessees  shall  post  in  at  least  two  conspicuous  places  on  said  land  a  notice,  with 
the  words,  "reserved  for  fish  culture  or  preservation;  trespass  forbidden," 
plainly  painted,  printed,  or  written  thereon,  and  keep  the  same  thus  posted. 
This  section  shall  be  interpreted  to  apply  only  to  such  ponds,  streams,  or 
springs  as  are  wholly  within  the  control  of  some  person  owning  the  land 
around  the  same,  who  has  made  some  improvement  or  expended  money  or 
labor  in  stocking  the  same  with  fish  for  his  own  use. 


THE  ANDROSCOGGIN  LAKP:S.  281 

Sect.  2.  If  any  person  shall,  at  anytime,  take,  catch,  kill,  destroy,  or  fish 
for  any  salmon,  trout,  lake-trout,  land-locked  or  fresh-water  salmon,  grayling, 
hass,  striped  bass,  pike,  pike  perch,  white  perch,  pickerel,  muskallonge,  or 
smelts  in  any  of  the  waters  of  this  State,  in  any  other  manner  or  with  any  other 
device  than  the  ordinary  way  of  angling  with  a  single  hook  and  line,  with  halt, 
artificial  fly  or  spoon,  he  shall  be  punished  by  a  fine  not  exceeding  thirty  dol- 
lars for  each  offence,  or  by  imprisonment  not  less  than  thirty  days,  or  both,  and 
a  further  penalty  of  not  less  than  one  dollar  for  each  fish  so  caught,  taken,  or 
killed. 

Sect.  3.  All  boats,  nets,  seines,  trawls,  spears,  fishing-tackle,  or  other  im- 
plements used  in  taking  or  catching  fish  in  violation  of  law,  shall  be  forfeited, 
and  may  be  seized  by  any  fish-warden,  constable,  police  officer,  or  selectman, 
and  shall  be  held,  proceeded  with,  and  disposed  of  as  provided  by  law  in  other 
cases  of  forfeiture  of  goods,  except  that  al  1  spears  and  trawls  shall  be  immediately 
destroyed  by  the  person  seizing  the  same. 

Sect.  4.  It  shall  not  be  lawful  for  any  person  to  take,  catch,  kill,  or  have  in 
his  possession  any  land-locked  or  fresh-water  salmon,  lake-trout,  brook  or 
speckled  trout.in  or  from  any  of  the  waters  of  this  State,  from  the  thirtieth  day 
of  September  of  any  year  to  the  thirtieth  day  of  April  next  following  {except 
that  lake-trout  may  be  taken,  with  single  hook  and  line  only,  during  the  months 
of  January,  February,  March,  and  April ;  and  any  person  so  offending  shall  be 
fined  not  more  than  fifty  dollars  for  each  fish  so  "taken  or  had  in  possession,  or 
imprisoned  not  more  than  six  months,  or  both. 

Sect.  5.  If  any  person  shall  take,  catch,  kill,  or  destroy  any  pike,  perch, 
or  white  perch,  in  any  of  the  waters  of  this  State  during  the  months  of  May  and 
June,  or  shall  take,  catch,  kill,  or  destroy  any  black  bass  between  the  thirtieth 
day  of  April  and  the  fifteenth  day  of  June,  in  any  year,  he  shall  forfeit  and 
pay  the  sum  of  ten  dollars  for  each  fish  so  caught,  killed,  taken,  or  had  in 
possession,  or  be  imprisoned  not  more  than  ninety  days,  or  both. 

Sect.  6.  It  shall  not  be  lawful  for  any  person  to  catch,  take  kill,  or  destroy 
any  muskallonge,  pickerel,  pike,  or  grayling  in  any  of  the  waters  of  this  State, 
during  the  months  of  April  and  May  of  any  year,  and  any  person  so  offending 
shall  pay  a  fine  of  not  more  than  twenty  dollars  for  each  fish  so  caught,  taken, 
killed,  or  had  in  possession,  or  be  imprisoned  not  more  than  sixty  days,  or  both. 

Sect.  7.  If  any  person,  within  five  years  from  the  fourteenth  of  June, 
eighteen  hundred  and  seventy-seven,  shall  catch  or  kill  any  s.alraon  or  young 
salmon,  known  as  parr,  smolts,  or  grilse,  or  any  shad,  in  the  waters  of  the 
Merrimac  or  Connecticut  rivers,  or  any  tributary  of  either  of  said  rivers,  he 
shall  be  fined  fifty  dollars  for  each  fish  so  caught  or  killed,  or  be  imprisoned 
not  more  than  six  months,  or  both.  Nor  shall  young  salmon,  known  as  parr, 
smolts,  or  grilse,  be  caught  or  killed  in  any  of  the  waters  of  the  State  after  the 
expiration  of  said  time,  under  the  penalty  herein  provided. 

Sect.  8.  Tlie  taking  or  catching  of  any  alewives  or  laraper-eels,  in  the  said 
waters,  is  also  prohibited  during  the  same  period,  under  a  penalty  of  ten  dollars 
for  each  fish  or  eel  so  caught  or  killed. 

Sect.  9.  If  any  person  shall  take,  catch,  kill,  or  destroy  any  white  fish, 
black  bass,  land-locked  or  fresh-water  salmon,  grayling,  pike,  perch,  or  any 
other  variety  of  fish  which  have  been  or  may  be  introduced  by  the  fish  commis- 
sioners, their  agents,  or  any  person  authorized  by  them,  in  any  of  the  waters 
of  this  State,  within  five  years  from  their  introduction  into  the  said  several 
waters,  he  shall  forfeit  and  pay  for  each  fish  taken,  caught,  killed,  or  de- 
stroyed, the  sum  of  ten  dollars,  or  be  imprisoned  not  more  than  ninety  days, 
or  both. 

Sect.  10.  Any  person  who  shall  take,  catch,  kill,  or  destroy  any  fish  in 
any  of  the  waters  of  this  State,  by  the  use  of  any  poisonous,  deleterious,  or 
explosive  substances,  shall  be  fined  not  more  than  fifty  dollars  for  each  offence, 
or  be  imprisoned  not  more  than  ninety  days,  or  both. 

Sect.  11.  If  any  person  shall  erect  or  maintain  any  dam  or  weir  upon  the 
Connecticut,  Merrimack,  Pemigewasset,  Ammonoosuc,  Winnipcsaukee,  or 
Baker's  rivers,  or  any  tributary  of  said  rivers,  without  providing  a  suitable 
fish-way,  to  be  approved  by  the  fish  commissioners,  or  shall  not  keep  open  said 
fish-way  at  any  and  all  times,  and  for  so  many  months  in  each  year  as  said 


2«2  FARRAR'S   ILLUSTRATED   GUIDE  TO 

fish  commissioners  shall  direct,  ho  shall  be  fined  fifty  dollars  for  each  day'« 
continuance  of  such  dam  or  weir,  or  neglect  to  keep  open  Buch  fishway ;  pro- 
vided.  that  the  commissioners  on  fisheries  for  this  State  shall  have  given  notice, 
in  writing,  to  the  owners  or  lessees  of  dams  on  said  rivers  and  their  tributaries, 
that  In  their  opinion  the  jiublic  good  requires  the  establishment  and  Immc 
diatc  building  of  suitable  hshwnys,  and  the  owners  of  dams  shall  be  allowed 
sis  months  from  the  date  of  the  notice  of  the  commissioners  on  fisheries  in 
which  10  erect  and  complete  such  fishways,  before  they  shall  be  liable  to  any 
fine  or  action  for  neglect  to  build  or  keep  open  such  fishways. 

Sect.  12.  The  approval  of  the  fish  commissioners  of  fishways  over  any  dam 
In  this  State,  shall  not  bo  construed  to  exonerate  the  owners  of  such  fishways 
from  tho  obligation  to  modify  those  so  approved,  or  to  build  others  when 
necessary  to  make  them  suitable,  when  required  by  such  commissioners. 

Sect.  13.  All  fishing  whatever  within  four  hundred  yards  of  any  such  fish- 
way,  Is  strictly  prohibited  under  a  penalty  of  ten  dollars  for  each  oficncc,  or 
imprisonment  for  not  more  than  ninety  days,  or  both. 

Sect.  14.  The  possession  of  any  fish  during  the  time  in  which  their  capture 
Is  prohibited  by  law,  whether  by  hotel- keepers,  express  companies,  or  any 
other  pcrcons,  shall  be  deemed  prima-facie  evidence  of  violation  of  the  law, 
and  such  lish  may  be  seized  by  any  commissioner,  fish-warden,  or  constable, 
and  the  companies  or  persons  in  whose  possession  such  fish  may  be  found  shall 
be  liable  to  all  the  penalties  heretofore  provided  for  such  violations  in  their 
respective  sections. 

Sect.  13.  No  person  shall  put  any  of  the  fish  called  pickerel  or  pike,  or  the 
roc,  fry,  or  spawn  of  the  same,  into  any  of  the  public  waters  of  this  State  now 
containing  trout,  and  free  from  pike  and  pickerel,  and  any  person  violating  this 
section  shall  be  fined  one  hundred  dollars  for  each  offence. 

Sect.  10.  No  person  shall  catch,  preserve,  sell,  or  expose  for  sale,  within 
the  limits  of  the  btate  of  New  Ilampshire,  any  lobster  between  the  fifteenth 
day  of  August  and  the  fifteenth  day  of  October  of  each  year;  and  from  the  said 
fifteenth  day  of  October  to  the  fifteenth  day  of  August  next  following  of  each 
year  no  lobster  shall  be  caught,  preserved,  sold,  or  exposed  for  sale,  under 
eleven  inches  in  length,  measuring  from  one  extreme  of  the  body  to  the  other, 
exclusive  of  claws  or  feelers,  nor  shall  any  female  lobster  be  killed  or  de- 
stroyed while  carrying  her  spawn  or  hatching  her  young;  and  any  person  vio- 
lating any  provision  of  this  section  shall  be  punished  by  a  fine  of  ten  dollars  for 
every  lobster  so  caught,  used,  sold,  or  exposed  for  sale,  as  aforesaid. 

Sect.  17.  No  person  shall  take  oysters  from  Great  Bay,  in  the  county  of 
Rockingham,  or  any  of  Its  tributaries,  during  the  months  of  June,  July,  and 
August,  nor  shall  any  person  dredge  for  oysters  through  holes  cut  In  the  lee 
during  any  month  In  the  year,  unless  said  oysters  have  been  bedded  in  said 
bay,  or  its  tributaries,  by  the  person  so  taking  or  dredging  for  them ;  and  any 

Eerson  violating  the  provisions  of  this  section  shall  be  fined  not  more  than  one 
undred  dollars  for  each  offence. 

Sect.  18.  No  person,  not  a  citizen  of  this  State  and  resident  therein,  shall 
take  by  seine  or  net  any  fish  called  herring  or  hardheads,  or  mackerel,  in  any 
waters  within  the  Jurisdiction  of  this  State,  for  the  purpose  of  salting  or  barrel- 
ing the  same. 

Sect.  19.  Any  person  who  shall  violate  the  provisions  of  the  preceding 
section  shall  totieii  for  each  offence  a  sum  not  exceeding  forty  dollars. 

Sect.  20.  Any  net  or  seine,  set  or  used  for  the  purpose  of  taking  sncb  fish, 
shall  be  forfeited  to  any  person  who  may  take  or  sue  for  the  same. 

Sect.  21.  All  weirs,  pounds,  stake  or  set  nets,  which  may  be  erected  or 
maintained  for  the  purpose  of  taking  or  trapping  fish,  in  the  waters  of  the  Pis- 
cataqua  river  and  Its  tributaries,  including  the  Great  Bay,  so  called,  shall  be 
one  mile  or  upwards  from  each  other,  the  distance  to  be  measured  from  the 
head  of  tide  water,  by  the  main  channel  of  said  rivers,  and  shall  be  kept  open 
from  the  fifteenth  of  July  to  the  first  of  April  in  the  succeeding  year,  and  from 
sunrise  on  Friday  morning  till  sunrise  on  Monday  morning  of  each  week  be- 


THE  ANDKOSCOGGIN  LAKES.  288 

tween  the  first  of  April  and  the  fifteenth  of  July  of  each  year ;  and  any  person 
or  persons  guilty  of  violating  the  provisions  of  this  section  shall  he  fined  not 
more  than  fifty  dollars,  or  ho  imprisoned  not  more  than  ninety  days,  or  both. 

Sect.  "22.  it  shall  not  be  lawful  for  any  person  to  catch,  kill,  keep,  or  have 
iu  his  possession  any  brook  or  speckled  trout,  from  any  of  the  waters  of  this 
State,  of  a  length  less  tiiau  four  inches,  or  any  striped  bass  of  a  length  less  than 
fifteen  inches,  under  a  penalty  of  five  dollars  for  each  flsh  so  taken,  kept,  or  had  in 
possession. 

Sect.  2-3.  It  shall  not  be  lawful  for  any  person  to  take,  catch,  or  kill  any  of 
the  fish  known  as  fresh- water  or  salt-water  smelts,  for  the  purpose  of  manuring 
land,  under  a  penalty  of  five  dollars  for  each  flsh  so  taken  or  used. 

Sect.  24.  Nothing  in  this  chapter  shall  prohibit  the  owners  of  private 
waters  from  taking  fish  for  purposes  of  propagation,  dissemination,  or  science, 
from  such  private  waters  at  such  times  and  in  such  manner  as  may  be  most 
convenient;  but  they  shall  not  be  taken,  used,  or  sold  for  purposes  of  food 
during  the  time  when  such  captm-e  is  prohibited  by  law. 

Sect.  25.  All  fines,  penalties,  and  forfeitures,  imposed  and  incurred  under 
the  provisions  of  this  chapter,  shall  go  one-half  to  the  use  of  the  complainant. 
The  proceedings  for  the  punishment  of  any  violation  of  said  provisions  and  for 
the  recovery  cf  any  penalty  or  forfeiture  Bhall  be  the  same  as  provided  by  law 
for  other  cases;  but  there  may  be  embraced  in  one  action,  complaint,  Indict- 
ment, or  information,  several  offences  committed  by  the  same  person  in  taking, 
catching,  killing,  or  destroying  fish. 


ESTABLISHED   HACK-PARES   IN  BOSTON. 

For  one  or  more  adult  passengers  within  the  City  Proper,  or  from  odo  place  to 
another  within  the  limits  of  South  Boston  or  of  East  Boston,  Fifty  Cents  each. 

Between  the  hours  of  11  P.M.  and  7  A.M.,  the  fare  for  one  adult  passenger 
shall  he  One  Dollar. 

For  two  or  more  such  passengers,  Fifty  Cents  each. 

For  one  adult  passenger,  from  any  part  of  the  City  Proper,  to  cither  South 
Boston  or  East  Boston,  or  from  East  Boston  or  South  Boston  to  the  City  Proper, 
One  Dollar. 

For  two  or  more  such  passengers,  between  such  points,  Seventy-Five  Cents 
each. 

For  children,  between  four  and  twelve  years  of  age,  when  accompanied  by 
one  adult,  one-half  of  the  above  sums;  and  for  children  under  four  years  of  age, 
when  accompanied  by  an  adult,  no  charge  is  to  be  made. 

By  order  of  the  Board  of  Aldermen, 

8.  F.  McCLEARY, 

City  Clerk. 

Baggage.  —  One  Trunk,  a  Valise,  Box,  Bundle,  Carpet-Bag,  Basket,  or 
other  article  used  In  traveling,  shall  be  free  of  charge;  but  for  each  additional 
Trimk,  or  other  articles.  Five  Cents  shall  be  paid. 

Horse-Car  Conveyance.  — Persons  who  travel  light,  <.<>.,  Tdth  little  bag- 
gage, can  save  Hack-Fare  in  Boston  by  taking  the  Ilorse-Cars,  which  now  run 
to  all  the  depots,  and  to  the  wharf  of  the  Portland  steamers. 

Herdic  Coaches  run  between  the  different  depots,  carrying  passengers  with 
light  baggage,  at  the  uniform  rate  of  Twenty-Five  Cents  each. 


Lead-Muje  Bbidge,  Shelbubne,  N.H. 


CHAPTER  XXVI. 
Game  Laws  of  Maine. 

CHAPTER  L. 
Aif  Act  for  the  protection  of  Game  and  Birds :  Moose,  Deer,  and  OarlboQ. 

Be  it  enacted,  etc.,  as  follows:  — 

Section  1.  Ko  person  shall,  before  the  first  day  of  October,  in  the  year  of 
our  Lord  eighteen  hundred  and  eighty,  take,  Ijill,  or  destroy  any  moose  in  this 
State.  All  persons  who  in  any  way  aid  or  assist  in  so  doing  shall  be  deemed 
principals.  Any  person  violating  the  provisions  of  this  section  shall  forfeit  the 
sum  of  one  hundred  dollars  for  every  moose  so  taken,  killed,  or  destroyed. 

Sect.  2.  Any  person  who  shall,  before  the  first  day  of  October,  in  the  year 
of  our  Lord  eighteen  hundred  and  eighty,  have  la  his  possession,  keep,  or  sell, 
any  moose-meat  or  moose-hide,  shall  bo  liable  to  tho  penalty  provided  in  sec- 
tion 1. 

Sect.  3.  No  person  shall,  after  tho  first  day  of  October,  in  the  year  of  our 
Lord  eighteen  hundred  and  eighty,  hunt,  kill,  or  destroy,  with  dogs,  any  mooee 
within  this  State,  under  a  penalty  of  one  hundred  dollars  for  every  moose  eo 
killed  or  destroyed ;  and  no  person  shall,  after  the  first  day  of  October  aforesaid, 
between  tho  first  day  of  January  and  tho  first  day  of  October,  ia  each  year,  in 
any  manner  bunt,  kill,  or  destroy  any  moose  under  tho  same  penalty  as  above 
provided. 

Sect.  4.  No  person  shall  hunt,  kill,  or  destroy  with  dogs,  any  deer  or  cariboa 
within  this  State,  under  a  penalty  of  forty  dollars  for  every  such  deer  or  caribou 
so  killed  or  destroyed;  and  no  person  shall,  between  the  firstdayof  January  and 
tho  first  day  of  October,  in  any  manner  hunt,  kill,  or  destroy,  any  deer  or  cari. 
bou,  under  the  same  penalty  as  above  provided.  Any  person  may  lawfully  kill 
any  dog  foimd  hunting  moose,  deer,  or  caribou. 

Sect.  6.  If  any  person  has  in  his  possession  the  carcass  or  hide,  or  any  part 
thereof,  of  any  such  animal,  between  the  first  day  of  January  and  tho  first  day 
of  October,  ho  shall  be  deemed  to  have  hunted  and  killed  tho  same  contrary  to 
law,  and  bo  liable  to  the  penalties  aforesaid ;  but  he  shall  not  be  precluded  from 
producing  proof  in  defence. 

Sect.  6.  No  person  shall  carry  or  transport  from  place  to  place  In  this 
State  the  carcass  or  hide,  or  any  part  thereof,  of  any  such  animal,  during  the 
period  of  timcin  which  the  killingof  such  animals  is  prohibited,ander  a  penalty 
of  forty  dollars. 

Sect.  7.  The  governor,  with  the  advice  of  council,  shall  appoint  one  county 
mooso  and  game  warden  for  each  county  in  tho  state,  to  hold  his  office  for  tho 
term  of  four  years,  unless  sooner  removed,  each  of  whom  may  appoint  in  writ- 
ingono  or  more  deputies  under  him,  and  requlreof  them  suitable  bonds  for  the 
faithful  performance  of  their  duties,  and  the  payment  to  him  of  his  fees;  and 
said  wardens  and  their  deputlesin  their  several  counties,  shall  faithfully  enforce 
tho  provisions  of  this  act.  Each  of  tho  deputies  shall  annually,  on  or  before  tho 
first  day  of  December,  render  to  his  principal  an  account  under  oath  of  all  the 
penalties  by  him  enforced  for  the  preceding  year,  and  shall  pay  to  him  one- 
tenth  part  of  the  net  proceeds  thereof.  Each  county  warden  shall  annually,  in 
January,  render  to  tho  secretary  of  state  an  account  on  oath  of  all  the  penalties 
enforced  by  himself,  or  returned  to  him  by  hia  deputies,  for  the  year  ending  on 
the  first  day  of  December.  Tho  penalty  for  neglecting  to  do  so  shall  be  for  a 
warden  fifty  dollars,  and  a  deputy  twenty -five  dollars;  and  the  warden  shall 
immediately  give  notice  to  the  county  attorney  of  every  county  of  such  neglect 
(285) 


286  FARRAR'S   ILLUSTRATED   GUIDE  TO 


of  his  deputy,  and  tho  secretary  of  state  shall  notify  such  county  attorney  of 
every  such  neglect  of  iho  warden ;  and  tho  county  attorney  ehall  prosecute  for 
every  such  neglect  of  which  ho  baa  notice;  and  the  penalties  so  recovered  Bhall 
bo  for  tho  use  of  the  county.  In  such  prosecutions  the  certiilcato  of  tho  secre- 
tory of  state  shall  be  sumcient  ovidoncu  of  the  fact  of.such  neglect  to  make 
return  to  him. 

Sect.  8.  Tho  municipal  officers  of  any  town  may  Insert  in  the  warrant  for 
their  annual  meeting  an  article  for  tho  choice  of  a  town  mooso  end  game  war> 
den,  who,  in  his  town  and  anywhere  within  the  distance  of  twelvo  miles  from 
the  exterior  bounds  thereof,  shall  have  concurrent  Jurisdiction  with,  and  tho 
same  powers  and  rights,  as  the  county  mooso  warden  and  his  deputies;  and  Le 
shall  mal^o  a  like  return  to  tho  secretary  of  state,  under  a  penalty  of  twenty-fivo 
dollars,  to  bo  proved,  recovered,  and  appropriated  in  tho  same  way.  Each  of 
said  officers  shall  havo  tho  same  authority  to  require  aid  in  the  czeeution  of  bis 
office  as  sheriffs  and  their  deputies  have. 

Sect.  0.  Tho  county  wardens,  their  deputies  or  town  wardens,  may  recover 
the  penalties  for  unlawfully  hunting  and  killing  moose,  deer,  and  caribou,  in  an 
action  on  the  case  in  their  own  names,  or  by  complaint  or  indictment  in  the 
namo  of  tho  state;  and  such  officers  may  bo  competent  witnesses,  and  the  sums 
recovered  shall  bo  paid,  one-half  to  the  warden  or  deputy  warden,  and  tho  other 
to  tho  county  or  town,  as  tho  case  may  bo.  Any  person  may  prosecute  by 
action,  complaint  or  indictment  for  any  of  the  acts  herein  forbidden,  provided 
no  such  warden  or  deputy,  within  fourteen  days  after  the  offence  is  committed, 
prosecutes  therefor,  and  the  sums  recovered  shall  bo  paid,  one-half  to  tho  prose- 
cutor, and  tho  other  to  tho  county,  and  such  action,  complaint  or  indictment 
may  bo  commenced  in  any  county  in  which  such  animal  is  killed  or  bunted,  or 
into  which  its  carcass  or  bide,  or  any  portion  thereof,  may  bo  carried. 

Bect.  10.  Tho  secretary  of  state  is  to  conununicato  to  the  legislature.  In  each 
month  of  January,  what  has  been  dono  in  execution  of  the  preceding  sections  of 
this  chapter  as  appears  by  the  returns  received. 

FUR-BEAEHTG  ANIMALS. 

Sect.  11.  No  person  shall  in  any  way  destroy,  between  the  first  day  of  May 
and  the  fifteenth  day  of  October  of  each  year,  any  mink,  beaver,  sable,  otter,  or 
fisher,  under  penalty  of  ten  dollars  for  each  animal  so  destroyed,  to  bo  rccov- 
ered  on  complaint,  one-half  thereof  to  the  use  of  the  county  where  the  offence  1> 
conunitted,  and  one-half  to  the  prosecutor. 

BIED9. 

Bect.  12.  No  person  shall  kill,  or  havo  In  his  possession,  except  alive,  or 
expose  for  sale,  any  wood  duck,  dusky  duck,  commonly  called  black  duck,  or 
other  sea  duck,  between  tho  first  day  of  May  and  tho  brst  day  of  September ; 
or  kill,  sell,  or  bavo  In  possession  except  alive,  any  ruffed  grouse,  commonly 
called  partridge,  or  woodcock,  between  the  first  day  of  December  and  the  fii'st 
day  of  September  following;  or  kill,  sell,  or  have  in  possession,  except  alive, 
any  quail  or  pinnated  grouse,  commonly  called  prairie  chicken,  between  tlio 
first  day  of  January  and  tho  first  day  of  September  following,  under  a  penalty 
of  not  less  than  five  nor  more  than  ten  dollars  for  each  bird  so  killed,  or  bad  in 
possession,  or  exposed  for  sale. 

Sect.  13.  No  person  shall  at  any  time,  or  in  any  place  within  this  State 
with  any  trap,  net,  snare,  device,  or  contrivance,  other  than  the  usual  method 
of  sporting  with  firearms,  tako  any  wild  duck  of  any  variety,  quail,  grouse, 
partridge,  or  woodcock,  under  a  penalty  of  five  dollars  for  each  bird  so 
taken. 

Sect.  14.  No  person  shall  at  any  timo  kill,  or  have  in  his  possession,  except 
olive,  any  of  the  oirda  commonly  Itnown  as  larks,  robins,  swallows,  sparrows, 
or  orioles,  or  other  insectivorous  birds,  crows  and  hawks  excepted. 

Sect.  lo.  No  person  shall  at  any  time  wantonly  take  or  destroy  the  nest, 
eggs,  or  unfledged  young  of  any  wild  bird  of  any  kind,  except  crows,  hawks, 


RANGELEY   AND    RICHARDSON    LAKES. 


287 


and  owls,  or  take  any  eggs  or  young  from  such  nests,  except  for  preserving  the 
same  as  specimens,  or  of  rearing  said  young  alive,  under  a  penalty  of  not  less 
than  one  nor  more  than  ten  dollars  for  each  nest,  egg,  or  young  so  taken  or 
destroyed. 

Sect.  16.  No  person  shall  carry  or  transport  from  place  to  place,  in  this 
State,  any  of  the  birds  named  herein,  during  the  period  in  which  the  killing  of 
such  birds  is  prohibited,  under  a  penalty  of  live  dollars  for  each  bird  so  carried 
or  transported. 

Sect.  17.  The  provisions  of  this  act  shall  not  apply  to  taxidermists,  com- 
missioned by  the  governor,  with  the  advice  of  the  council,  to  take  and  kill 
birds  for  scientific  purposes,  provided  they  kill  the  birds  for  such  purposes 
only. 

Sect.  18.  All  penalties  Imposed  by  the  seven  preceding  sections  may  be  re- 
covered by  an  action  of  debt,  or  by  complaint  or  indictment  in  the  name  of  the 
State,  by  any  warden  or  his  deputies,  or  any  other  person,  before  any  court 
having  jurisdiction  thereof,  in  any  county  in  which  such  offence  may  be  com- 
mitted or  the  accused  resides ;  and  in  all  actions  therefor  in  the  supreme  judicial 
court,  or  any  superior  court  for  the  county  of  Cumberland,  if  the  plaintiff  re- 
covers, l)e  shall  recover  full  costs  without  regard  to  the  amovuit  of  such  recovery. 
Such  penalties,  when  collected,  shall  be  paid,  one-half  to  the  prosecutor,  and 
the  other  to  the  overseers  of  the  poor,  for  the  use  of  the  poor  of  the  city  or 
town  where  such  prosecutor  resides. 

Sect.  19.  This  act  shall  not  apply  to  the  shooting  of  ducks  on  the  sea- 
coast. 

Sect.  20.  Chapter  one  hundred  and  six,  and  section  two  of  chapter  ninety- 
eight  of  the  public  laws  of  eighteen  hundred  and  seventy-two,  together  with  all 
acts  and  parts  of  acts  inconsistent  with  this  act,  are  hereby  repealed;  saving  all 
actions,  complaints,  and  indictments  now  pending,  or  which  may  hereafter  be 
commenced  for  the  violation  of  any  such  act  before  this  act  takes  effect.  — 
[Approved  Feb.  19, 1878.] 


CHAPTER  XXVII. 
Oaxne-Fi£h  Laws  of  Maine. 

CHAPTER  LXZrV. 
Air  Act  to  regulate  and  protect  Fisheiiea  and  the  Propagation  of  Flah. 
Bt  it  enacted,  etc.,  at/oUowi :  — 

8ECTIOM  1.  The  governor,  with  the  advice  of  the  council,  ehall  appoint  one 
or  two  persons,  aa  they  may  think  best,  to  bo  commissioDers  of  fisheries,  who 
shall  hold  office  for  three  years  unless  sooner  removed,  and  have  a  general 
supervision  of  the  fisheries,  regulated  by  the  following  sections.  He  or  they 
•hall  examine  dams  and  all  other  obstructions  existing  In  oil  rivers  and  streams 
In  the  state,  and  determine  the  necessity  of  fish- ways  and  the  location,  form, 
and  capacity  thereof;  shall  visit  those  sections  where  fisheries  regulated  by 
this  act  are  carried  on,  and  examine  into  the  working  of  the  laws ;  shall  Intro, 
duce  and  disseminate  valuable  species  offish  into  the  waters  of  Ibis  state  where 
they  do  not  exist,  and  perform  all  other  duties  prescribed  by  law.  He  or  they 
shall  report  annually  on  or  before  the  thirty-first  day  of  December,  to  the  gov- 
crnor,  who  shall  cause  three  thousand  copies  to  be  printed.  ITo  or  they  shall 
receive  one  thousand  dollars  and  traveling  and  other  expenses  necessarily  in- 
curred In  connection  with  his  or  their  duties,  which  shall  be  audited  by  the 
governor  and  council,  and  it  shall  be  his  or  their  duty  to  see  that  all  violations 
of  the  fish  laws  of  the  state  are  duly  prosecuted. 

Sect.  2.  Every  dam  or  other  artificial  obstruction  In  any  river  or  strsam 
naturally  frequented  by  salmon,  shad,  or  alcwives,  shall  be  provided  by  tho 
owner  or  occupant  thereof  with  a  durable  and  eflicient  fish-way,  of  such  form 
and  capacity,  and  in  such  location  as  may  be  determined  by  the  commissionera 
of  fisheries.  It  shall  also  be  incumbent  on  the  owner  or  occupant  of  tho  dam 
to  keep  the  flsh-ways  In  repair,  and  open  and  free  from  obstruction  for  tho  pas- 
•age  of  fish,  during  such  times  ns  may  bo  prescribed  bv  law ;  provided,  that  in 
case  of  disagreement  between  tho  commissioners  of  fisheries  and  the  owner  of 
any  dam,  ns  to  the  propriety  and  safety  of  tho  plan  submitted  to  the  owners  or 
occnpant  of  such  dam  for  tho  location  and  construction  of  the  fish- way,  such 
owners  or  occupant  may  appeal  to  the  county  commissioners  of  tho  county 
■where  the  dam  la  located,  within  twenty  daya-after  notice  of  the  determination 
of  tho  commissioners,  by  giving  to  the  commissioners  notice  In  writing  of  such 
appeal  within  that  time,  stating  therein  tho  reasons  therefor,  and  at  the  request 
of  the  appellant  or  tho  commissioners,  tho  senior  commissioners  In  office  of 
any  two  adjoining  counties  shal  bo  associated  with  them,  who  shall  appoint  a 
time  to  view  the  premises  and  hear  the  parties,  and  shall  give  duo  notice  there- 
of, and  after  snch  hearing  they  ehall  decide  tho  question  submitted,  and  cause 
record  to  bo  made  thereof,  and  their  decision  shall  bo  final  as  to  tho  place  and 
location  appeal  ed  from .  If  the  requirements  of  the  commissioners  are  affirmed , 
the  appellant  shall  be  liable  for  the  costs  arising  after  the  appeal,  otherwise  tho 
costs  shall  be  paid  by  the  county. 

Sect.  3.  If  a  fish-way  thus  required  to  be  built  is  not  completed  to  the  satis, 
fhction  of  tho  commissioners  within  the  time  specified,  any  owner  or  occnpant 
shall  forfeit  not  more  than  one  hundred  nor  less  than  twenty  dollars  for  every 
day  between  the  first  day  of  May  and  the  first  day  of  NoTeiiri>er,  during  whicn 
such  neglect  continues. 

Bect.  4.  On  the  completion  of  any  fish-way  to  the  satisfaction  of  the  com> 
miasioners,  or  at  any  subsequent  time,  they  shall  prescribe  in  writing  the  time 
daring  which  the  same  shall  bo  kept  open  and  free  fh>m  obctroction  to  the  poa. 
(288) 


RANGELEY  AND   RICHARDSON   LAKES.        289 


Bago  of  fish  each  year,  and  a  copy  thereof  shall  he  served  on  tho  owner  or 
occupant  of  the  dam.  The  commiaBioncra  may  change  the  time  as  they  see  Ct. 
Unless  otherwise  provided,  a  fish-way  shall  be  kept  open  and  unobstructed 
from  tho  first  day  of  May  to  the  filteenth  day  of  July  of  each  year.  Tho 
penalty  for  neglecting  to  comply  with  the  provisions  of  this  Bcction,  or  any 
regulations  made  tn  accordanco  herewith,  sliall  be  not  less  than  twenty  nor 
more  than  one  hundred  dollars  for  every  day  such  neglect  continues. 

Sect.  5.  In  case  the  commissionera  find  any  fish- way  out  of  repair  or  need- 
ing alterations,  they  may,  as  in  case  of  new  lish-ways,  require  tho  owner  or 
occupant  to  mako  BUch  repairs  or  alterations ;  and  all  tho  proceedings  la  Buch 
cases,  and  tho  penalty  for  neglect,  shall  be  as  provided  in  the  second,  third,  and 
fourth  sectious,  without  right  of  appeal. 

Sect.  0.  In  caso  tho  dam  is  owned  or  occupied  by  more  than  one  person, 
each  shall  bo  liable  for  the  cost  of  erecting  and  maintaining  euch  fish-way,  In 
proportion  to  his  interest  in  tho  dam,  and  if  any  owner  or  occupant  shall 
neglect  or  refuse  to  join  with  tho  others  iu  erecting  or  maintaining  euch  fish- 
way,  the  other  owner  or  owners  or  occupants  shall  erect  or  repair  the  same,  and 
Bhall  have  an  action  of  case  against  such  delinquent  owner  or  occupant  for  hia 
share  of  tho  expenses  thereof. 

Sect.  7.  If  the  owner  or  occupant  of  such  dam  resides  out  of  the  state,  said 
penalties  may  bo  recovered  by  a  libel  against  tho  dam  and  land  on  which  It 
Btaads,  to  bo  filed  In  tho  supremo  judicial  court  in  tho  county  where  tho  eamo  la 
located,  iu  the  name  of  tho  commissioners  of  fisheries  or  auy  fish  warden,  who 
shall  give  to  tho  owner  or  occupant  of  tho  dam,  and  all  persons  interested 
therein,  such  notice  as  tho  court,  or  any  justice  thereof  in  vacation,  shall  order, 
and  the  court  may  render  judgment  therciu  against  said  dam  and  lands  for  said 
penalties  and  costs,  and  order  a  sale  thereof  to  satisfy  such  judgment  and  costs 
of  sale,  subject,  however,  to  all  said  requirements  for  the  erection,  mainten* 
ance,  or  repair  of  said  fish- way. 

Sect.  8.  The  governor,  with  tho  advice  of  the  council,  shall  appoint  fish 
■wardens  where  the  same  may  bo  necessary,  who  shall  enforce  tho  provlElons  of 
all  public  laws  relating  to  fisheries,  prosecute  all  offences  that  como  to  their 
knowledge,  and  shall  have  tho  same  power  as  bhcrifl'a  and  deputy  Bherlffs  to 
serve  all  criminal  process  for  the  violation  of  any  of  the  provisions  of  this 
act;  and  they  shall  have  a  right,  at  all  times,  to  visit  any  dam  or  any  weir  or 
other  apparatus  for  taking  fish,  and  in  the  exercise  of  their  duties  shall  have 
tho  same  right  to  require  aid  that  sheriffs  and  their  deputies  have  in  cxecutiug 
the  duties  of  their  office,  and  any  person  neglecting  to  render  it  when  required 
shall  forfeit  ten  dollars.  Each  person  so  appointed  shall  hold  office  three  years, 
unless  sooner  removed,  and  hia  pay  shall  bo  fixed  by  tho  governor  and  council, 
■who  eliall  audit  his  accounts  and  cause  tho  same  to  be  paid  from  the  state 
treasury,  provided  that  the  whole  amount  paid  to  all  wardens  shall  not  exceed 
fifteen  hundred  dollars  annually. 

Sect.  9.  No  salmon,  shad,  or  other  migratory  fish  shall  bo  taken  or  fished 
for  within  five  hundred  yards  of  any  fish-way,  dam,  or  mill-race,  nor  bctwceu 
the  Bangor  and  BrowerbriJgc  over  the  Penobscot  river  and  tho  water  works 
dam  at  Treat's  Falls  on  said  river;  nor  between  the  Augusta  highway  bridge 
over  tho  Kennebec  river  and  the  Augusta  dam  on  said  river,  between  tho  first 
day  of  April  and  the  first  day  of  November  in  each  year,  except  by  tho  orai- 
Dary  mode  of  angling  with  single  hook  and  lino  or  artificial  flies;  nor  shall 
hoolc  and  line  or  artiiicial  flics  be  used  at  any  time  within  one  hundred  yards 
of  any  fish-way,  dam,  or  mill-race.  The  penalty  for  ■violation  of  this  section 
shall  bo  a  fine  of  not  more  than  fifty  nor  less  than  ten  dollars  for  each  offence, 
and  a  further  fine  of  ten  dollars  for  each  salmon,  one  dollar  for  each  shad,  so 
taken. 

Sect.  10.  There  shall  be  a  close  time  for  salmon  from  the  fifteenth  day  of 
July  of  each  year  to  the  first  day  of  April  following,  during  which  no  salmon 
shall  be  fished  for,  taken,  or  killed  in  any  manner,  under  a  penalty  of  not  more 
than  fifty  nor  less  than  ten  dollars,  and  a  further  penalty  of  ten  dollars  for  each 
salmon  so  taken  or  killed. 

Sect.  11.  No  smelts  shall  be  taken  or  fished  for  in  any  of  the  tidal  waters 
of  this  state,  in  any  other  manner  than  by  book  and  lino,  between  the  first  day 


290  FARRAR'S  ILLUSTRATED   GUIDE  TO 

of  April  and  the  first  day  of  November,  in  each  year,  under  a  penalty  of  not 
leas  than  ten  dollars  nor  more  than  thirty  dollars  ior  each  offence,  and  a  further 
penalty  of  twenty  cents  for  each  smelt  so  taken;  and  all  weirs  for  the  capture 
of  eniclts  shall  bo  opened,  and  so  remain,  and  all  nets  of  any  kind  used  In  the 
smelt  and  tom-cod  fishery  shall  be  taken  from  the  water  on  or  before  the  said 
first  day  of  April  in  each  year,  under  a  penalty  of  not  less  than  twenty  nor 
more  than  fifty  dollars,  ana  a  further  fine  of  five  dollars  per  day  for  each  day 
that  any  such  weir  or  net  remains  in  violation  of  law ;  but  weirs  which  have 
catch-pounds  covered  with  net,  the  meshes  of  which  are  one  inch  square  in  the 
clear,  or  greater,  shall  not  be  subject  to  the  provisions  of  this  section ;  provided, 
however,  that  dip-nets  may  be  used  from  the  first  day  of  April  to  the  twentieth 
day  of  May. 

Sect.  12.  Any  inhabitant  of  this  State,  by  obtaining  the  consent  of  the  adja- 
cent riparian  proprietors,  may  plant  oysters  below  low-water  mark  in  any  of 
the  navigable  waters  of  the  State,  in  places  where  there  Is  no  natural  oyster- 
bed,  enclose  such  grounds  with  stakes,  set  at  suitable  distances,  and  extending 
at  least  two  feet  above  high- water  mark,  but  so  as  not  to  obstruct  the  free  navi- 
gation of  such  waters,  and  have  the  exclusive  rigkt  of  taking  such  oysters; 
and  if  any  person  trespasses  on  such  enclosure,  or  In  any  way  injures  such 
oyster-beds,  he  shall  bo  liable  in  an  action  of  trespass  for  all  the  damage;  or 
if  he  takes  any  oysters  therein  without  the  consent  of  the  owner,  be  shall  for- 
feit not  less  than  twenty  nor  moro  than  fifty  dollars,  or  be  confined  in  Jail  not 
exceeding  three  monihs. 

Sect.  13.  There  shall  be  an  annual  close  time  for  land-locked  salmon,  com- 
monly so  called,  trout,  togue,  black  bass,  Oswego  bass,  and  white  perch,  in 
the  waters  of  this  State,  as  follows,  viz. :  For  land-locked  salmon,  trout,  and 
togue,  from  the  first  day  of  October  to  the  first  day  of  May  following,  excepting 
on  tho  St.  Croix  river  and  its  tributaries,  and  all  the  waters  in  Kennebec 
county,  in  which  the  close  time  shall  be  from  the  fifteenth  day  of  September  to 
the  first  day  of  May  following;  and  for  black  bass,  Oswego  bass,  and  white 
perch,  from  tho  first  day  of  April  to  the  first  day  of  July  following. 

Sect.  14.  No  person  shall  at  any  time  catch,  take,  kill,  or  fish  for  any  land- 
locked salmon,  trout,  togue,  blacK  bass,  Oswego  bass,  or  white  perch,  by 
means  of  any  grapnel,  spear,  trawl,  weir,  net,  seine,  trap,  spoon,  set-line,  or 
with  any  device  or  in  any  other  way  than  by  tho  ordinary  way  of  angling  with 
a  single  baited  hook  and  line,  or  with  artificial  flics,  under  a  penalty  of  not  less 
than  ten  dollars  nor  more  than  thirty  dollars  for  each  offence,  and  a  further  fine 
of  one  dollar  for  each  fish  so  caught,  taken,  or  killed.  And  ail  set-lines,  grap- 
nels, spears,  trawls,  weirs,  nets,  seines,  traps,  spoons,  and  devices  other  than 
fair  angling  as  aforesaid,  are  hereby  prohibited  on  the  fresh-water  lakes,  ponds, 
and  streams  of  this  State ;  and  when  found  in  use  or  operation  on  said  lakes, 
ponds,  or  streams,  they  are  hereby  declared  forfeit  and  contraband,  and  any 
person  finding  them  in  use  in  said  waters  is  hereby  authorized  to  destroy  the 
same. 

Sect.  15.  No  person  shall  take,  catch,  kill,  or  fish  for,  in  any  manner,  any 
land-locked  salmon,  trout,  or  togue,  in  any  of  Jie  waters  aforesaid,  between  the 
said  first  day  of  October  and  the  first  day  of  May  following,  nor  in  the  St.  Croix 
river  and  its  tributaries,  between  the  fifteenth  day  of  September  and  the  first 
day  of  May  following;  or  black  bass,  Oswego  bass,  or  white  perch,  between  the 
first  day  of  April  and  tho  first  day  of  July  following,  under  a  penalty  of  not  less 
than  ten  dollars  nor  more  than  tliirty  dollars,  and  a  further  fine  of  one  dollar 
for  each  fish  thus  caught,  taken,  or  killed  as  aforesaid.  Provided,  however, 
that  during  the  months  of  February,  March,  and  April,  in  each  year,  it  shall  be 
lawful  for  citizens  of  this  State  to  fish  for  and  take  land-locked  salmon,  trout 
and  toguo,  and  convey  the  same  to  their  own  homes,  but  not  otherwise. 

Sect.  16.  No  person  shall  sell,  expose  for  sale,  or  have  in  possession  with 
Intent  to  sell,  or  transport  from  place  to  place  in  this  State,  any  land-locked 
salmon,  trout,  or  togue,  between  tho  first  day  of  October  and  the  first  day  of 
May  following,  or  any  black  bass,  Oswego  bass,  or  white  perch,  between  the 
first  day  of  April  and  the  first  day  of  July  following,  under  a  penalty  of  not  less 
than  ten  dollars  nor  more  than  fifty  dollars  for  each  offence. 

Sect.  17.    Any  person,  or  persons  having  in  possession,  except  alive,  any  land- 


RANGELEY  AND   RICHARDSON  LAKES.        291 

locked  salmon,  trout,  or  togue,  between  the  first  day  of  October  and  the  first  day 
of  May  following,  or  any  black  bass,  Oswego  bass,  or  white  perch,  between  the 
first  day  of  April  and  the  first  day  of  July  following,  or  who  shall  transport 
from  place  to  place  within  this  State,  any  land-locked  salmon,  trout,  or  togue, 
between  the  first  day  of  October  and  the  first  day  of  May  following,  or  black 
bass,  Oswego  bass,  or  white  perch,  between  the  first  day  of  April  and  the  first 
day  of  July  following,  shall  be  deemed  to  hare  killed,  caught,  or  transported 
the  same  contrary  to  law,  and  be  liable  to  the  penalties  aforesaid. 

Sect.  18.  The  provisions  of  this  act  shall  not  apply  to  white  perch  taken  in 
any  of  the  tide  waters  of  this  State. 

Sect.  19.  No  person  shall  introduce  fish  of  any  kind,  except  trout,  fresh 
and  salt  water  salmon,  fresh-water  smelts,  blue-back  trout,  and  minnows,  by 
moans  of  the  live  fish  or  otherwise,  to  any  waters  now  frequented  by  trout  or 
salmon,  except  as  hereinafter  provided,  under  a  penalty  of  not  less  than  fifty 
dollars  nor  more  than  five  hundred  dollars. 

Sect.  20.  The  commissioners  of  fisheries  may  take  fish  of  any  kind  at  such 
time  and  place  as  they  may  choose,  and  in  such  manner,  for  the  purposes  of 
science,  and  of  cultivation  and  dissemination,  and  they  may  grant  written  per- 
mits to  other  persons  to  take  fish  for  the  same  purposes,  and  they  may  intro- 
duce or  permit  to  be  introduced,  any  kind  of  fish  to  any  waters  they  may  see  fit. 

Sect.  21.  The  commissioners  of  fisheries  may  set  apart  any  waters  for  the 
purpose  of  cultivation  of  fish,  and  after  notice  published  three  weeks  succes- 
sively in  some  newspaper  published  in  the  county  where  such  waters  are  lo- 
cated, no  person  shall  lake,  kill,  or  fish  for  any  fish  therein,  under  a  penalty  of 
not  less  than  ten,  nor  more  than  one  hundred  dollars,  and  a  further  penalty  of 
one  dollar  for  each  fish  so  taken  or  killed. 

Sect.  22.  Any  person  legally  engaged  in  the  artificial  culture  and  mainten- 
ance of  fishes,  may  take  them  in  his  own  enclosed  waters  wherein  the  same  are 
so  cultivated  and  maintained,  as  and  whenJie  pleases,  and  may  at  all  times  sell 
them  for  the  purpose  of  cultivation  and  propagation,  but  shall  not  sell  them  for 
food  at  seasons  when  the  taking  of  such  fish  is  prohibited  by  law,  under  a  pen- 
alty of  not  less  than  ten  nor  more  than  one  hundred  dollars,  and  a  futher  pen- 
alty of  not  less  than  one  dollar  for  each  fish  so  sold. 

Sect.  23.  Any  person  engnged  in  the  artificial  propagation  of  fish  known  as 
trout,  fresh  and  salt  water  salmon,  on  any  water  in  this  State,  when  the  parent 
fish  are  taken  from  public  waters  in  this  State,  shall  retain  not  less  than  twenty- 
five  per  cent,  of  all  eggs  taken  from  said  parent  fish  and  cause  the  same  to  bo 
properly  cared  for  and  hatched,  and  when  hatched  and  in  proper  condition,  to 
be  returned  to  a  suitable  place  for  such  young  fish  in  the  original  waters  fi-om 
which  the  parent  fish  were  taken,  and  to  cause  said  parent  fish  to  be  returned 
to  safe  locations  in  the  waters  from  which  they  were  taken,  under  a  penalty  of 
not  less  than  fifty  nor  more  than  five  hundred  dollars  for  each  oflfcnco.  But  the 
provisions  of  this  section  shall  not  apply  to  cases  in  which  the  parent  fish  are 
taken  in  the  manner  and  at  the  time  and  place  permitted  by  law  for  the  capture 
of  such  fish  for  food ;  nor  shall  it  apply  to  any  oper.itions  in  fish-culture  con- 
ducted for  public  purposes  by  permission  of  the  commissioners  of  fisheries  of 
this  State,  who  may  afiix  such  conditions  to  their  permits  as  they  may  see  fit, 
but  requiring  in  no  case  less  than  twenty-five  per  cent,  of  the  young  fish  to  be 
returned,  as  provided  in  this  section. 

Sect.  24.  No  person  shall  fish  in  that  portion  of  a  pond  or  other  water  in 
which  fisli  are  artificially  cultivated  or  maintained,  by  the  written  permission 
of  the  fish  commissioners,  without  the  permission  of  the  proprietor,  under  a 
penalty  of  not  less  than  ten  nor  more  than  one  hundred  dollars,  and  an  addi- 
tional penalty  of  two  dollars  for  each  fish  so  taken  or  killed. 

Sect.  25.  It  shall  be  the  duty  of  all  sheriffs,  deputy-sheriffs,  constables,  and 
policc-oflicers,  as  well  as  fish- wardens  and  their  deputies,  to  cause  anv  person 
or  persons  violating  any  of  the  provisions  of  this  chapter  to  be  promptly  prose- 
cuted for  said  oft'enco,  either  by  making  complaint  before  some  trial  justice, 
municipal  or  police  judge,  or  by  giving  information  to  the  county  attorney  of 
the  county  in  which  the  offence  is  committed.  Said  sheriffs,  deputy-sheriffs, 
constables,  fish^wardens,  deputy  fish-wardens,  and  police-officers,  shall  bo  al- 


2\i)2  FARRAR'S    ILLUSTRATED    GUIDE. 

lowed  for  said  services  tho  same  fees  as  are  now  prescribed  by  law  for  aberiffs 
and  their  deputies. 

Sect.  26.  All  fines  and  penalties  provided  for  in  this  act,  unless  otherwise 
provided,  may  be  recovered  before  any  competent  tribunal  by  complaint,  in- 
dictment, or  action  of  debt;  and  In  all  actions  of  debt  commenced  in  the  su- 
preme judicial  court,  or  in  tho  superior  court  for  tho  county  of  Cumberland, 
the  plafntiff  recovering  shall  recover  full  cost,  without  regard  to  amount  recov- 
ered. Judges  of  municipal  and  police  courts,  and  trial  justices,  shall  have  con- 
current jurisdiction  of  all  offences  described  in  this  act,  when  the  penalty  for 
tho  offence  complained  of  does  not  exceed  thirty  dollars.  In  cases  where  the 
offence  described  in  this  act  is  alleged  to  have  been  committed  In  any  river, 
stream,  pond,  or  lake  forming  a  boundary  between  two  counties,  or  where  the 
fish  are  caught  in  one  county  and  carried  to  another  county,  the  action,  com. 
plaint,  or  indictment  may  be  commenced  and  prosecuted  in  cither  county. 
One-half  of  all  fines  and  penalties  recovered  or  imposed,  when  not  otherwise 
provided,  shall  be  for  tho  benefit  of  the  party  prosecuting  or  making  complaint, 
and  tho  other  half  to  the  county  in  whicu  the  proceedings  arc  commenced  and 
prosecuted. 

Sect.  27.  The  provisions  of  this  act  shall  not  apply  to  the  taking  of  bine- 
back  trout. 

Sect.  28.  All  acts  and  parts  of  acts  inconsistent  with  this  act  are  hereby  re- 
pealed ;  provided,  however,  that  nothing  in  this  section  shall  repeal  the  laws 
relating  to  the  St.  Croix,  Denny,  Pemmaquam,  Cobscook,  East  Machias,  and 
Narraguagns  rivers.  And  this  act  shall  not  apply  to  fish  taken  in  the  weirs  on 
St.  Croix  river. 

Sect.  29.  This  act  shall  take  effect  when  approved.  —  [Approved  Feb.  21, 
1879.] 

AN  ACT  TO  PREVENT  THE  TAKING  OF  TROUT  FROM  THE 
RANOELEY  STREAM,  IN  THE  TOWTT  OF  RANGELEY. 

Be  it  enacted  by  the  Senate  and  Honse  of  Representatives  in  Legislature 
assembled,  as  follows : — 

Section  1.  No  person  shall  take,  kill,  or  destroy  any  trout  in  tho  Rangeley 
stream,  in  the  town  of  Rangeley,  between  the  mouth  of  the  Kcnnebago  stream 
and  the  dam  at  or  near  the  outlet  of  said  Rangeley  lake,  from  the  first  day  of 
July  till  the  first  day  of  March,  for  five  years. 

Sect.  2.  Any  person  who  shall  violate  the  provisions  of  this  act  shall  forfeit 
and  pay  the  sum  of  five  dollars  for  the  attempt,  and  one  dollar  for  each  and 
every  trout  taken,  to  bo  recovered  by  complaint  before  any  trial  justice,  one 
half  to  the  complainant,  and  the  other  half  to  tho  town  of  Rangeley. 

Sect.  3.  Tliis  act  shall  take  effect  when  approved.  —  [Approved  Feb.  8, 1876.] 


Mrs.  Washington  and  Madison,  from  Lead  Mine  Bridge, 
Shelscbne,  N.  H. 


294        farrar's  illustrated  guide  to 


Additional  Game  and  Game-Fish  Law^s  passed  during 
the  winter  of  1880. 

Ghapteb  180.    An  Act  to  protect  QosilB. 

Be  it  enacted,  dbc,  at  follows :  — 

No  quail  shtll  be  killed,  nor  had  in  possession  except  alive,  nt  any  time  pre- 
vious to  September  first,  eighteen  hundred  and  eighty-three,  under  penalty  of 
twenty-five  dollars  for  every  offence,  and  one  dollar  additional  for  each  quail 
killed  or  had  in  possession  except  alive.    [Approved  February  28, 1880.] 

Chapter  180.    An  Act  for  the  protection  of  Blue-Back  Trout. 
Be  it  enacted,  die,  as  follows  :  — 

Section  l.  No  person  shall  fish  for,  catch,  take,  kill  or  destroy  any  blue- 
back  trout  in  any  of  the  waters  of  this  state,  with  any  net,  seine,  weir  or  trap. 

Sect.  2.  Any  person  who  shall  violate  the  provisions  of  this  act  shall  for- 
feit and  pay  the  sum  of  five  dollars  for  the  attempt,  and  one  dollar  for  each 
and  every  blue-back  trout  so  taken,  caught,  killed  or  destroyed,  to  be  recov- 
ered by  complaint  before  any  trial  justice,  one-half  to  the  complainant  and  the 
other  half  to  the  town  where  the  complaint  is  made. 

Sect.  3.  This  act  shall  take  effect  when  approved.  [Approved  Febroaty 
23, 1880.] 

Chapter  187.    An  Act  to  amend  section  ten,  chapter  seventy-flve  of  the  laws 
of  eighteen  hundred  and  seventy-eight,  relating  to  fisheries. 

Be  it  enacted,  &c.,  as  follows  :  — 

Sect.  10.  There  shall  be  a  close-time  for  salmon  from  the  fifteenth  day  of  July 
of  each  year  to  the  first  day  of  April  following,  during  which  no  salmon  shall 
be  taken  or  killed  in  any  manner,  under  a  penalty  of  not  more  than  fifty  nor 
less  than  ten  dollars,  a:!d  a  further  penalty  of  ten  dollars  for  each  salmon  so 
taken  or  killed.  Provided,  however,  that  from  the  said  fifteenth  day  of  July 
until  the  fiifleenth  day  of  September  following,  it  shall  bo  lawful  to  fish  for 
and  take  salmon  by  the  ordinary  mode,  with  rod  and  single  line,  but  not  other- 
wise.   [Approved  February  28, 1880.] 

Chapter  208.    An  Act  to  cnUirgc  the  powers  and  dotiea  of  the  CommlMlon- 
ers  of  Fisheriea  and  "Wardens. 

Be  it  enacted,  dtc,  as  follows :  — 

Section  1.  The  powers  and  duties  of  the  commissioners  of  fisheries,  and 
wardens,  shall  extend  to  all  matters  pertaining  to  game,  and  they  shall  have 
tlie  same  powers  to  enforce  all  laws  pertaining  to  game  as  they  now  have  in 
enforcing  the  laws  relating  to  the  fisheries. 

Sect.  2.  The  governor  is  hereby  authorized,  with  the  advice  and  consent  of 
the  council;  to  appoint  wardens,  whose  duty  it  shall  bo.  to  enforce  the  pro- 
visions of  all  Laws  relating  to  game  and  the  fisheries,  arrest  any  person  vio- 
lating  such  larrs,  and  prosecute  for  all  offences  against  the  eame  that  may  come 
to  their  knowledge;  and  ehiill  have  the  same  power  as  sheriffs  and  deputy 
sheriffs,  to  serve  all  criminal  processes  for  violations  of  the  provisions  of  any 
law  pertaining  to  game  and  the  fisheries,  and  shall  bo  allowed  for  said  services 
the  same  fees  as  arc  prescribed  by  law  for  sheriffs  and  their  deputies  for  like 
services;  and  in  the  execution  of  their  duties  they  shall  have  the  same  right 
to  require  aid  that  sheriffs  and  their  deputies  have  in  executing  the  duties  of 
their  oflice;  and  any  person  refusing  or  neglecting  to  render  such  aid  when 
required,  shall  forfeit  ten  dollars,  to  be  recovered  upon  complaint  before  any 
trial  justice  or  municipal  court. 

Sect.  8.  This  act  shall  take  effect  when  approved.  [Approved  March  9, 
1880.] 


THE   ANDROSCOGGIN  LAKES.  295 


NETV  LAWS   OF  1882-83. 

An  Act  for  the  protection  of  moose,  caribou,  and  deer. 
Be  it  enacted,  etc.,  as  follows  :  — 

Section  1.  No  pnrson  shall  kill,  destroy,  or  have  in  possession  from  the 
first  day  of  October  to  the  first  day  of  January  in  each  year,  more  than  one 
moose,  two  caribou,  or  three  deer,  under  a  penalty  of  one  liundred  dollars  for 
every  raoose  and  forty  dollars  for  every  caribou  or  deer  killed,  destroyed,  or  in 
possession  in  excess  of  the  said  number,  and  in  case  of  conviction  all  such  moose, 
caribou,  or  deer,  or  the  carcasses  or  parts  thereof,  shall  be  decreed  by  the  court 
forfeited  to  the  use  of  the  party  prosecuting.  Any  person  having  in  possession 
more  than  the  aforesaid  number  of  moose,  caribou,  or  deer,  or  the  carcasses  or 
parts  thereof,  shall  be  deemed  to  have  killed  or  destroyed  them  in  violation  of 
this  act. 

Sect.  2.  Any  person  owning  or  having  in  possession  dogs  for  the  purpose  of 
hunting  moose,  caribou,  or  deer,  or  that  are  used  for  such  hunting,  shall  be 
liable  to  a  penalty  of  not  loss  than  twenty  nor  more  than  one  hundred  dollars. 

Sect.  3.  The  "penalties  prescribed  in  this  act  may  be  recovered  in  the  manner 
provided  by  section  twenty -five  of  chapter  forty  of  the  public  laws  of  eighteen 
hundred  and  seventy-eight. 

An  Act  making  Sunday  a  close  time  for  game  and  birds  of  all  kinds. 

Be  it  enacted,  etc.,  as  follows  :  — 

Section  1.  Sunday  is  hereby  made  a  close  time,  on  which  day  it  shall  not 
be  lawful  for  any  person  to  hunt,  kill,  or  destroy  game  or  birds  of  any  kind, 
under  the  penalties  imposed  for  the  hunting,  killing,  or  destroying  the  same, 
during  any  close  time  now  established  by  law. 

Sect.  2.  This  act  shall  not  be  construed  to  repeal  or  diminish  the  penalties 
already  imposed  for  any  violation  of  the  Sunday  laws. 

An  Act  to  repeal  chapter  one  hundred  and  ninety -two  of  the  laws  of  eighteen 
hundred  and  seventy-four  and  section  seventeen  of  chapter  fifty  of  the  laws  of 
eighteen  hundred  and  seventy-eight,  relating  to  taxidermists  and  all  acts  an- 
thorizing  their  appointment. 

Be  it  enacted,  etc.,  as  follows :  — 

Section  1.  Chapter  one  hundred  and  ninety-two  of  the  laws  of  eighteen 
hundred  and  seventy -four  and  section  seventeen  of  chapter  fifty  of  the  laws  of 
eighteen  hundred  and  seventy-eight  are  hereby  repealed. 

Sect.  2.  All  acts  and  parts  of  acts  authorizing  the  appointment  of  taxider- 
mists are  hereby  repealed. 

An  Act  relating  to  seizure  of  fish  and  game  under  the  fish  and  game  laws. 

Be  it  enacted,  etc.,  as  foil  'Jis .  — 

Any  person  whose  fish  or  game  has  been  seized  foi  violation  of  any  fish  or 
game  law,  shall  have  such  fish  or  game,  so  seized,  returned  to  him  on  giving  to 
the  oflicer  a  bond  with  suflicient  sureties,  residents  of  this  state,  in  double  the 
amount  of  the  fine  for  such  violation ;  conditioned,  that  if  the  final  judgment  for 
such  alleged  violation  shall  be  guilty,  ho  will  within  thirty  days  thereafter  pay 
such  fine  and  costs.  If  such  person  neglects  or  refuses  to  give  such  bond  and 
take  the  fish  or  game,  so  seized,  he  shall  have  no  action  against  the  officer  for 
such  seizure  or  loss  thereof. 

An  Act  to  amend  section  fourteen  of  chapter  fifty  of  the  public  laws  of 
eighteen  hundred  and  seventy -eight,  relating  to  insectivorous  birds. 


296  FARRAR'S  ILLUSTRATED   GUIDE  TO 

Be  it  enacted,  etc.,  as  /ollowa :  — 

Section  fourteen  of  chapter  fiftv  of  the  pahlic  laws  of  eighteen  hundred  and 
seventy -eight  is  liereby  amended  by  adding  thereto  the  following  words,  viz.  :— 

"  Under  a  penalty  of  not  less  than  one  dollar  nor  more  than  five  dollars  for 
each  of  said  birds  killed,  or  in  possession  except  alive,"  so  that  as  amended 
said  section  will  read  as  follows,  viz. :  — 

Sect.  14.  No  person  shall  kill  or  have  in  his  possession,  except  alive,  any  of 
the  birds  commonly  known  as  larks,  robins,  swallows,  sparrows,  or  orioles,  or 
other  insectivorous  birds,  crows  and  hawks  excepted,  under  a  penalty  of  not 
less  than  one  dollar  nor  more  than  five  dollars  for  each  of  said  birds  killed,  and 
the  possession  by  any  person  of  such  dead  bird  shall  be  prima  facie  evidence 
that  such  person  killed  eucb  bird. 

Am  Act  for  the  protection  of  game-fish. 
Be  it  enacted,  etc.,  as  follows :  — 

Section  1.  No  person  shall  fish  for,  take,  catch,  kill,  or  destroy  any  fish  in 
aiiy  waters,  except  tide  waters,  with  any  net,  seine,  weir,  or  trap,  under  a  pen- 
alty of  Hfty  dollars  for  the  offence  and  ten  dollars  for  each  salmon  or  landlocked 
salmon,  so  taken,  caught,  killed  or  destroyed. 

Sect.  2.  No  person  shall  kill  or  destroy  any  landlocked  salmon  less  than 
nine  incnes  in  length,  or  any  trout  less  than  five  inches  in  length,  under  a  pen- 
alty of  five  dollars  for  the  offence  and  fifty  cents  for  each  and  every  landlocked 
salmon  or  trout  so  killed  or  destroyed.  Any  person  having  in  possession  any 
landlocked  salmon  or  trout  of  less  than  the  above  dimensions  shall  be  deemed  to 
have  killed  or  destroyed  them  in  violation  of  the  provisions  of  this  section. 

Sect.  3.  No  person  shall  take,  catch,  kill,  or  have  in  possession  at  any  one 
time  for  the  purpose  of  transportation  more  than  fitly  pounds  in  weigh  of  land- 
locked salmon  or  trout,  or  of  both  together,  nor  shall  any  such  be  transported 
except  In  the  possession  of  the  owner  thereof,  under  a  penalty  of  fifty  doHars 
for  the  offence,  and  five  dollars  for  each  and  every  pound  of  landlocked  salmon 
or  trout,  or  both  together,  so  taken,  caught,  killed,  in  possession  or  being 
transported  in  excess  of  fifty  pounds  in  weight;  and  all  such  fish  transported  in 
violation  of  the  provisions  of  tbid  section  shall  be  liable  to  seizure,  on  complaint, 
and  shall  be  decreed  by  the  court  forfeited  to  the  use  of  the  party  prosecuting. 
Any  person  having  in  possession  more  than  fifty  pounds  in  weight  of  the  flah 
aforesaid,  shall  he  deemed  to  have  taken  them  in  violation  of  this  section. 

Sect.  4.  Ail  penalties  imposed  by  any  of  the  sections  of  this  act  may  be 
recovered  in  the  manner  provided  by  section  twenty -six,  chapter  seventy-five  of 
the  public  laws  of  1878. 

An  Act  relating  to  the  disposition  of  fines  and  penalties  recovered  for  the 
violation  of  the  fish  laws. 

Be  it  enacted,  etc.,  as  follows  :  — 

Section  1.  All  fines  and  penalties  hereafter  recovered  for  the  violation  of 
chapters  fifty  and  seventy-five  of  the  public  laws  of  eighteen  hundred  and 
seventy-eight  and  all  acts  amendatory  thereof  and  of  all  laws  now  in  force  in 
this  state  for  the  protection  of  fish  and  game,  shall  be  paid  one-half  to  the  com- 
plainant and  one-half  to  any  game  and  fish  protective  society  or  other  sports- 
men's association  which  shall  have  been  organized  under  the  laws  of  Maine,  and 
which  may  be  located  in  the  county  where  the  said  fines  and  penalties  are 
recovered ;  provided,  the  said  society  or  association  shall  expend  the  same  in 
the  propagation  and  cultivation  of  trout  and  salmon  for  the  fresh-water  lakes 
and  ponds  of  Maine,  to  be  done  under  the  direction  and  supervision  of  the  fish 
commissioners.  In  case  there  may  be  more  than  one  such  society  or  association 
located  In  the  county  where  said  fines  and  penalties  are  recovered,  the  fisli  com- 
missioners shall  designate  which  society  the  money  shall  be  paid  to,  or  they  may 
cause  the  same  to  be  divided  between  them.  If  there  is  no  such  society  or 
association  in  the  county  where  such  fines  and  penalties  are  recovered,  then 


THE  ANDKOSCOGGIN  LAKES.  297 

such  fines  and  penalties  shall  he  paid  to  the  state  fieh  commissioners,  tvho  shall 
appropriate  the  same  as  they  may  deem  proper. 

Bect.  2.  All  acts  or  parts  of  acts  inconsistent  with  this  act  are  hereby 
repealed. 

Sect.  3.    This  act  shall  take  effect  when  approved. 

An  Act  to  amend  sections  three  and  four  of  chapter  fifty  of  the  laws  of 

1878. 

£e  it  enacted,  etc.,  as  follows :  — 

Section  1.  Section  three  of  chapter  fifty  of  the  public  laws  of  eighteen 
hundred  and  seventy-eight  is  hereby  amended  by  inserting  tlie  word  "  hunted" 
before  word  "  liillcd,"  so  that  as  amended  said  section  shall  read  as  follows :  — 

Sect.  3.  No  person  shall  hunt,  liill,  or  destroy  with  dogs  any  moose  within 
this  state,  under  a  penalty  of  one  hundred  dollars  for  every  moose  so  hunted, 
killed,  or  destroyed ;  and  no  person  shall  between  the  first  day  of  January  and 
the  first  day  of  October  in  each  year,  in  any  manner  hunt,  liill,  or  destroy  any 
moose  under  the  same  penalty. 

Sect.  2.  Section  four  of  said  chapter  fifty  is  hereby  amended  by  inserting 
the  word  "  hunted  "  before  the  word  "  killed,"  so  that  as  amended  said  section 
shall  read  as  follows :  — 

Sect.  4.  No  person  shall  hunt,  kill,  or  destroy  with  dogs  any  deer  or  caribou 
wtihin  this  state,  under  a  penalty  of  forty  dollars  for  every  such  deer  or  caribou 
so  hunted,  killed,  or  destroyed;  and  no  person  shall  between  the  first  day  of 
January  and  the  first  day  of  October  in  any  manner  hunt,  kill,  or  destroy  any 
deer  or  caribou,  under  the  same  penalty  as  above  provided.  Any  person  may 
lawfully  kill  any  dog  found  hunting  moose,  deer,  or  caribou. 


Sheriffs,  deputy  sheriffs,  police  ofllcers,  and  constables  are  hereby  vested  with 
all  the  powers  conferred  by  law  upon  game  wardens  and  their  deputies,  and 
shall  be  allowed  for  their  service!  the  same  fees  as  are  now  prescribed  for 
sheriffs  and  their  deputies. 


CHAPTER  XXVIII. 

IList  of  flotels,  ^ccommotiationja!,  ant  l^ates. 

ALPINE  HOUSE,  Gorham,  N.H.,  G.  D.  Stratton,  Proprietor. 

Terms,  $2.50  to  $3.50  per  day.     Accommodates  150  guests. 
ANDOVER  HOUSE,   Akdovek,   Maine,   Albert  W.    Thomas, 

Proprietor.     Terms,   $2.00  per  day,    $7.00  to    $10.00   per 

week.     Accommodates  50  guests. 
BARDEN  HOUSE,  Phillips,  Maine,  Samuel  W.  Farmer,  Pro- 
prietor.    Terms,  $2.00  per  day,  $7.00  to  $10.00  per  week. 

Accommodates  50  guests. 
BERLIN  MILLS  HOUSE,  Magalloway  River,  N.H.,  Berlin 

Mills  Co.,   Proprietors.     Terms,    $2.00  per  day,   $7.00  to 

$10.00  per  week.     Accommodates  40  guests. 
BETHEL  HOUSE,  Bethel,  Maine,  Wm.  F.  Lovejoy  &  Sons, 

Proprietors.     Terms,  $2.00  to  $2.50  per  day,  $7.00  to  $14.00 

per  week.     Accommodates  100  guests. 
CAMP  BEMIS,  Bemis  Stream,  Maine,  Capt.  Fred  C.  Barker, 

Proprietor.      Terms,    $2.00    per    day.      Accommodates    30 

guests. 
CAMP     CARIBOU,     Treat's    Island,    Parhachenee    Lake, 

Maine,   John  S.  Danforth,  Proprietor.     Terms,   $2.00  per 

day.     Accommodates  30  guests. 
CAMP  KENNEBAGO,   Indian  Rock,  Maine,  I.  N.   Packard, 

Superintendent.     Terms,  $2.00  per  day.     Accommodates  60 

guests. 
CASCADE    HOUSE,    Berlin  Falls,  N.H.,   H.   F.    Marston, 

Proprietor.     Terms,  $2.00  per  day,  reduction  by  the  week. 

Accommodates  50  guests. 
DIX  HOUSE,  DixviLLE  ^otch,  N.H.,  George  Parsons,  Pro- 
prietor.    Terms,  $2.00  per  day,  $7.00  to  $10.00  per  week. 

Accommodates  50  guests. 
ERROL  house,  Errol,  N.II.,    J.  T.   Chapman,    Proprietor. 

Terms,  $2.00  per  day,  $7.00  to  $10.00  per  week.    Accom- 
modates 30  guests. 
[298] 


THE  ANDROSCOGGIN  LAKES.  299 

ELMWOOD  HOUSE,  Phillips,  Maine,  Theodore  Page,  Pro- 
prietor. Terms,  $3.00  per  day,  f  10.00  to  $14.00  per  week. 
Accommodates  50  guests. 

FLINT'S  CAMP,  near  Magalloway  Forks,  Maine,  T.  S. 
Flint,  Proprietor.  Terms,  $2.00  per  day.  Accommodates 
30  guests. 

FLINT'S  CAMP,  head  of  Aziscohos  Falls,  Maine,  Fred  Flint, 
Proprietor.  Terras,  .$2.00  per  day.  Reduction  by  the  week. 
Accommodates  20  guests. 

HOTEL  MARBLE,  Farmington,  Maine,  J.  B.  Marble,  Pro- 
prietor. Terms,  .$2.00  per  day,  $7.00  to  $10.00  per  week. 
Accommodates  50  guests. 

FRENCH'S  HOTEL,  Andover,  Maine,  John  A.  French,  Pro- 
prietor. Terms,  $2.00  per  day,  $7.00  to  $10.00  per  week. 
Accommodates  75  guests. 

GLEN  MOUNTAIN  HOUSE,  Bryant's  Pond,  Maine,  John 
Bicknell,  Proprietor.  Terms,  $2.00  per  day,  $7.00  to 
$10.00  per  week.     Accommodates  60  guests. 

GREENVALE  HOUSE,  Greenvale,  Maine,  George  Esty,  Pro- 
prietor. Terms,  $2.00  per  day,  $7.00  to  $10.00  per  week. 
Accommodates  40  guests. 

LAKESIDE  HOTEL,  .Lakeside,  Cambridge,  N.H.,  Richard- 
son-Rangeley  Lakes  Transportation  Company,  Proprietors. 
Terms,  $2.00  per  day.     Accommodates  50  guests. 

LAKE  VIEW  COTTAGE,  South  Arm,  Lake  Wblokenneba- 
cooK,  Maine,  Richardson-Rangeley  Lakes  Transportation 
Company,  Proprietors.  Terms,  $2.00  per  day.  Accommo- 
dates 12  guests. 

MIDDLE  DAM  CAMP,  Lake  Welokennebacook,  Maine. 
Richardson-Rangeley  Lakes  Transportation  Company,  Pro- 
prietors.    Terms,  $2.00  per  day.     Accommodates  40  guests. 

MOUNTAIN  VIEW  HOUSE,  Oqdossoc  Outlet,  Maine,  Henry 
T.  Kimball,  Proprietor.  Terms,  $2.00  per  day,  $10.00  per 
week.     Accommodates  50   guests. 

PARSONS  HOUSE,  Colebrook,  N.H.,  E.  F.  Bailey,  Proprie- 
tor. Terms,  $2.00  per  day,  transient,  $7.00  to  $10.00  per 
week.     Accommodates  75  guests. 


300  FARRAR'S  ILLUSTRATED   GUIDE. 

OQUOSSOC  HOUSE,  Rangeley,  Maine,  Edward  Grant,  Pro- 
prietor. Terms,  $2.00  per  day ;  reduction  by  the  week. 
Accommodates  25  guests. 

PERCY  HOUSE,  North  Stratford,  N.H.,  J.  W.  Tibbetts, 
Proprietor.  Terras,  $2.00  per  day;  §7.00  to  $10.00  per 
week.     Accommodates  30  guests. 

POPLAR  HOTEL,  North  Newry,  Maine,  Charles  R.  Bartlett, 
Proprietor.  Terms,  $2.00  per  day,  with  reduction  by  the 
week  or  month.     Accommodates  30  guests. 

RANGELEY  LAKE  HOUSE,  Ra>geley,  Maine,  John  A. 
Burke,  Proprietor.  Terms,  $2.00  per  day,  §7.00  to  §10.00 
per  week.     Accommodates  60  guests. 

RICHARDSON'S  CAMP,  Haines  Landing,  Lake  Mooseluc- 
MAGUNTic,  Maine,  Ellis  &  Adams,  Proprietors.  Terms, 
$2.00  per  day,  transient ;  $10.00  per  week,  during  July  and 
August.     Accommodates  GO  guests. 

STODDARD  HOUSE,  Farmington,  Maine,  J.  W.  Withee, 
Proprietor.  Transient  board,  .^2.00  per  day.  Reduction  by 
the  week  or  month.     Accommodates  50  guests. 

THE  ELMS,  Bethel,  Maine,  C.  W.  Wormell,  Proprietor. 
Terms,  $2.00  per  day,  transient ;  reduction  by  the  week.  Ac- 
commodates 50  guests. 

UPPER  DAM  CAMP,  Upper  Richardson  Lake,  Maine,  John 
Chadwick,  Superintendent.  Terms,  $2.00  per  day.  Accom- 
modates 75  guests. 

WILLARD  HOUSE,  North  Stratford,  N.H.,  G.  Hilliard, 
Proprietor.  Terms,  $2.00  per  day,  $7.00  to  §10.00  per 
week.     Accommodates  50  guests. 


CHAPTER  XXIX. 

Wi^tt^  Of  J»te  and  %0nnA  Wti?  (^xmx^ion  SWcfeetsi. 

Philadelphia  to  New  York,  rail $2  50 

"  Boston  (steamer),  state-room  and  meals 

included 

New  York  to  Boston,  all  rail 

"  "       boat  and  cars  .... 

"         to  Portland,   steamer,    includes   state-room, 

meals  extra 

Boston  to  Portland,  boat 

"  "         cars,  $3.00;  limited  ticket 

'•        Bryant's  Pond 

"        Bethel 

*'        Gorham 

' '        Groveton 

"        North  Stratford       ...... 

"        Farmington 

Phillips 

"        Greenvale 

"        Rangeley  Outlet 

"        Andover 

"        Middle  Dam,  via  Andover       .... 

"        Upper  Dam,  t»ia  Andover         .... 

*'        Indian  Rock,  via  Andover       .... 

*'        Dixville  Notch,  ■pxa  Bethel  and  Cambridge     . 

North  Stratford  to  Colebrook 

Colebrook  to  Dixville  Notch 

"        Errol  Dam 

Dixville  Notch  to  Errol  Dam 

Bethel  to  Lakeside,  Cambridge,  N.H.,  stage   . 
Lakeside,    Cambridge,  N.H.,  to   Sunday  Cove,  Middle 

Dam  Carry,  steamer 

Lakeside,  Cambridge,  N.H.,  to  Errol  Dam 
(301) 


8  00 

5  00 

4  00 

4  00 

I  00 

2  50 

4  80 

5  15 

5  80 

6  80 

7  50 

5  25 

6  00 

8  75 

9  75 

6  30 

9  00 

10  00 

11  00 

10  00 

1  00 

1  50 

2  50 

1  50 

3  00 

1  00 

1  50 

302 


FARRAR'S  ILLUSTRATED   GUIDE  TO 


$2  00 
1  00 
1  00 

1  00 


Lakeside,  Cambriilge,  N.H.,  to  Magalloway  River,  Steam- 
boat Landing     .... 

Errol  Dam  to  Sunday  Cove,  Middle  Dam  Carry,  steamer 
"  Magalloway  River,  Steamboat  Landing 

Steamboat  Landing,  Magalloway  River  to  Sunday  Cove 
Middle  Dam  Carry   .... 

Crossing  Middle  Dam  Carry  on  backboard 

Bryant's  Pond  to  Andover,  stage 

Andover  to  South  Arm    . 

South  Arm  to  Middle  Dam,  steamer 
"  Upper  Dam,  steamer 

"  Mill  Brook,  steamer  . 

Middle  Dam  to  Upper  Dam,  steamer 
"  Mill  Brook,  steamer 

Farmington  to  Phillips,  cars    . 

Phillips  to  Greenvale,  stage     . 

Greenvale  to  Oquossoc  Outlet,  steamer 

Indian  Rock  to  Upper  Dam,  steamer 

Glen  House  (White  Mountains)  to  Andover.  Stage  to 
Gorham,  rail  to  Bryant's  Pond,  stage  to  Andover 

Glen  House  (White  Mountains)  to  Cambridge,  Lake  Um 
bagog.  Stage  to  Gorham,  rail  to  Bethel,  stage  to 
Cambridge 

Glen  House  (White  Mountains)  to  Dixville  Notch 
Stage  to  Gorham,  rail  to  Bethel,  stage  to  Cambridge, 
Lake  Umbagog,  steamer  to  Errol  Dam,  Concord 
wagon  to  Notch 


1  00 

1  50 

2  00 
50 

1  00 
1  50 
75 
1  00 
1  00 
1  50 
1  00 
1  00 


3  50 


4  75 


G  75 


List  of  Round  Trip  Excursion  Tickets  issued  by  the 
different  Railroad  Companies,  between  Boston  and  the 
Androscoggin  Lakes,  Andover,  Cambridge,  N.H.,  Lake 
Umbagog,  Dixville  Notch,  Parmachenee  Lake,  and  other 
prominent  points. 

The  Richardson  (Rangeley)  Lakes  Transportation  Company 
have  made  arrangements  with  the  diflferent  railroad  companies 
for  the  issue  of  the  following  excursion  tickets  for  the  season  of 
1884,  at  reduced  rates  of  fare.     These  tickets  are  good  from  the 


THE  ANDROSCOGGIN  LAKES.  303 

time  of  their  purchase  to  October  1st,  and  persons  buying  them 
can  stop  over  at  any  point  mentioned  on  the  ticket  without  extra 
expense. 

The  return  tickets  will  also  be  taken  on  the  steamers  up  to  the 
time  they  stop  running,  which  is  usually  about  November  1st.  But 
during  the  month  of  October  they  run  irregularly,  and  travelers  will 
have  to  find  out  the  days  the  boats  run,  which  they  can  easily  do,  and 
govern  themselves  accordingly.  The  stages  will  also  take  the^ickets 
until  November  1st,  on  their  regular  days  of  running.  The  time 
given  as  necessary  to  make  one  of  the  following  excursions  is  the 
quickest  time  it  can  be  done  in,  traveling  by  regular  conveyances, 
and  in  the  easiest  manner.  If  one  chooses  to  turn  a  pleasant  ex- 
cursion into  hard  work,  and  travel  at  unreasonable  hours,  and  by 
irregular  conveyances,  most  of  the  trips  can  be  made  quicker. 
On  the  other  hand,  if  persons  stop  over  at  different  points  on  the 
routes,  as  the  tickets  allow  them  to  do,  the  time  will  be  lengthened. 
The  author  has  been  over  every  route  mentioned  in  this  chapter, 
and  there  is  not  one  but  offers  inducements  to  persons  to  "  stop 
over  "  at  different  places,  if  they  have  the  time  at  their  disposal. 

Wo.  1.  — Boston  to  Andover,  Me.,  and  return. 

*  Distance,  382  miles;  time,  2  days;  coBt  $10.00. 
Boston  to  Portland,  rail. 

Portland  to  Brj'ant's  Pond,  Grand  Trunk  Railway. 
Bryant's  Pond  to  Andover,  Tuttle  &  Perkins'  stag^e. 
Return  same  way. 

Wo.  ft.  —  Boston  to  Lakeview  Cottage,  South  Arm,  Me.,  via  Bryant's  Pond 
and  Andover,  and  return. 

Distance,  406  miles;  time,  3  days;  cost,  $12.00. 
Boston  to  Portland,  rail. 

Portland  to  Bryant's  Pond,  Grand  Trunk  Railway. 
Bryant's  Pond'to  Andover,  Tuttle  &  Perkins'  stage. 
Andover  to  Lakeview  Cottage,  South  Arm,  stage. 
Return  same  way. 

Wo.  3.  —Boston  to  Middle  Dam,  Lake  Welokennebacook, Me.,  via  Bryant's 
Pond  and  Andover,  and  return. 

Distance,  414  miles ;  time,  4  days ;  cost,  $12,00. 
Boston  to  Portland,  rail. 

Portland  to  Bryant's  Pond,  Grand  Trunk  Railway. 
Bryant's  pond  to  Andover,  Tuttle  &  Perkins'  stage. 
Andover  to  South  Arm,  Lake  Welokennebacook,  stage. 
South  Arm  to  Middle  Dam,  R.  R.  L.  T.  Co.'s  steamers. 
Return  same  way. 

Wo.  4.  —  Boston  to  Middle  Dam,  Me.,  via  Bethel  and  Cambridgfe,  Lake 
Umbagog,  and  return. 


304  FARRAR'S  ILLUSTRATED   GUIDE  TO 

Distance,  450  miles ;  time,  8  days;  cost,  $13.60. 

Boston  to  Portland,  rail. 

Portland  to  Bethel,  Grand  Trunk  Railway. 

Bethel  to  Cambridge,  Lake  Umbagog,  Lane's  stage. 

Lakeside,  Cambridge,  to  Sunday  Cove,  II.  R.  L.  T.  Co.'b  steamen. 

Sunday  Cove,  to  Middle  Dam,  stage. 

Return  same  way.  • 

BTo.  n.  — Boston  to  Middle  Dam,  Me.,  via  Bethel  and  Cambridge,  Lake 
Umbagog.    Return  tria  Andover  and  Bryant's  Pond. 

•         Distance,  436  miles ;  time,  3  days ;  cost,  $13.25. 
Boston  to  Portland,  rail. 
Portland  to  Bethel,  Qrand  Truiik  Railway. 
Bethel  to  Cambridge,  Lake  Umbagog,  Lane's  stage. 
Lakeside,  Cambridge,  to  Sunday  Cove,  R.  R.  L.  T.  Co.'s  steamers. 
Sunday  Cove  to  Middle  Dam,  stage. 
Middle  Dam  to  South  Arm,  R.  R.  L.  T.  Co.'s  steamers. 
South  Arm  to  Andover,  stage. 
Andover  to  Bryant's  Pond,  Tuttle  &  Perkins'  stage. 
Bryant's  Pond  to  Portland,  Grand  Trunk  Railway. 
Portland  to  Boston,  rail. 

No.  ©.  —  Reverse  of  No.  5;  cost,  $13.25. 

Wo.  7.  —  Boston  to  Upper  Dam,  Lake  Molechimkamunk,  Me.,  via  Bryant's 
Pond  and  Andover,  and  return. 

Distance,  430  miles;  time,  4  days;  cost,  $13.00. 
Boston  to  Portland,  rail. 

Portland  to  Bryant's  Pond,  Grand  Trunk  Railway. 
Bryant's  Pond  to  Andover,  Tuttle  &  Perkins'  stage. 
Andover  to  South  Arm,  Lake  Welokennebacook,  stage. 
South  Arm  to  Upper  Dam  Landing,  R.  R.  L.  T.  Co.'s  steamers. 

Return  same  way. 
IVo.  8. — Boston  to  Upper  Dam,  Androsco^ln  Lakes,  Me.,  vto  Bethel  and 
Cambridge,  and  return. 

Distance,  464  miles;  time,  4  days;  cost,  $15.50. 
Boston  to  Portland,  rail. 
Portland  to  Bethel,  Grand  Trunk  Railway. 
Bethel  to  Lakeside,  Cambridge,  Lnko  Umbagog,  Lane's  stage. 
Lakeside,  Cambridge  to  Sunday  Cove,  R.  R.  L.  T.  Co.'s  steamers. 
Sunday  Cove  to  Middle  Dam,  stage. 
Middle  Dam  to  Upper  Dam  Landing,  R.  R.  L.  T.  Co's.  steamers. 

Return  same  way. 
No.  9, — Boston  to  Upper  Dam,  Androscoggin  Lakes,  Me.,  via  Andover. 
Retorn  via  Cambridge  and  Bethel. 

Distance,  453  miles;  time,  4  days:  cost,  $14.50. 

Boston  to  Portland,  rail. 

Portland  to  Bryant's  Pond,  Grand  Trunk  Railway. 

Bryant's  Pond  to  Andover,  Tultle  &  Perkins'  stage. 

Andover  to  South  Arm,  Lake  Welokennebacook,  stage. 

South  Arm  to  Upper  Dam  Landing,  li.  R.  L.  T.  Co.'s  steamers. 

Upper  Dam  Landing  to  Middle  Dam,  R.  R.  L.  T.  Co.'s  steamers, 

Middle  Dam  to  Sunday  Cove,  stage 

Sunday  Cove  to  Cambridge,  Lake  Umbagog,  R.  R.  L.  T.  Co.'s  steamers. 

Lakeside,  Cambridge  to  Bethel,  Lane's  stage. 

Bethel  to  Portland,  Grand  Trunk  Railway. 

Portland  to  Boston,  rail. 


THE   ANDROSCOGGIN   LAKES.  305 


Wo.  lO.  —  Reverse  of  No.  9.    $14.50. 

Wo.  H.  —  Boston  to  Upper  Dam,  Androscoggin  Lakes,  Me.,  via  Andover. 
Return  via  Dixvillo  Notch,  N.  11. 

Distance,  513  miles;  time,  4  days;  cost,  $16.00. 

Boston  to  Portland,  rail. 

Portland  to  Bryant's  Pond,  Grand  Trunk  Railway. 

Bryant's  Pond  to  Andover,  Tuttlc  &  Perkins'  stage. 

Andover  to  South  Arm,  Lake  Welokennebacook,  stage. 

South  Arm  to  Upper  Dam  Landing,  li.  R.  L.  T.  Co.'s  steamers. 

Upper  Dam  Landing  to  Middle  Dam,  li.  R.  L.  T.  Co.'s  steamers. 

Middle  Dam  to  Sunday  Cove,  Lake  Umbagog,  stage. 

Sunday  Cove  to  Errol  Dam,  11.  R.  L.  T.  Co.'s  steamers. 

Errol  bam  to  Colcbrook  (through  Dixville  Notch),  stage. 

Colebrook  to  North  Stratford,  stage. 

North  Stratford  to  Portland,  Grand  Trunk  Railway. 

Portland  to  Boston,  rail. 

IVo.  12.  — Reverse  of  No.  11. 

IVo.  III. — Boston  to  Upper  Dam,  Androscoggin  Lakes,  He.,  via  Andover. 
Rctui-n  via  Dixville  Notch  and  Concord,  N.H. 

Distance,  506  miles;  time,  4  days;  cost,  $19.00. 

Boston  to  Portland,  rail. 

Portland  to  Bryant's  Pond,  Grand  Trunk  Railway. 

Bryant's  Pond  to  Andover,  Tuttle&  Perk'ns'  stage. 

Andover  to  South  Arm,  Lake  Welokennebacook,  stage. 

South  Arm  to  Upper  Dam  Landing,  R.  R.  L.  T.  Co.'s  steamers. 

Upper  D.im  Landing  to  Middle  Dam,  R.  >l.  L.  T.  Co.'s  steamers. 

Middle  Dam  to  Sunday  Cove,  Umbagog  Lake,  stage. 

Sunday  Cove  to  Errol  Dam,  R.  R.  L.  T.  Co.'s  steamers. 

Errol  bam  (through  Dixville  Notch)  to  Colebrook,  stage. 

Colebrook  to  North  Stratford,  stage. 

North  Stratford  to  Groveton  Junction,  Grand  Trunk  Railway. 

Concord  to  Boston,  Boston,  Lowell  &  Concord  Railroad. 

IVo.  14.  —  Reverse  of  No.  13,  $19.00. 

Wo.  15.  —Boston  to  Upper  Dam,  Androscoggin  Lakes,  Me.,  via  Andover. 
Return  via  Dixville  Notch  and  Concord,  N.H. 

Distance,  404  miles ;  time,  4  days ;  cost,  $19.00. 
Boston  to  Portland,  Boston  &  Maine  Railroad. 
Portland  to  Bryant's  Pond,  Grand  Trunk  Railway. 
Bryant's  Pond  to  Andover,  Tuttle  &  Perkins'  stage. 
Andover  to  South  Arm,  Lake  Welokennebacook,  stage. 
South  Arm  to  Upper  Dam  Landing,  Lake  Welokennebacook,  stage. 
Upper  Dam  Landing  to  Middle  Dam,  R.  R.  L.  T.  Co.'s  ste.imers. 
Middle  Dam  to  Sunday  Cove,  Lake  Umbagog,  stage. 
Sunday  Cove  to  Errol  Dam,  II.  R.  L.  T.  Co.'s  steamers. 
Errol  Dam  (through  Dixville  Notch)  to  Colebrook,  stage. 
Colebrook  to  North  Stratford,  stage. 

North  Str.itford  to  Groveton  Junction,  Grand  Trunk  Railway. 
Groveton  Junction  to  Concord,  N.H.,  Boston,  Concord  S:  Montreal  Railroad. 
Concord  to  Lawrence,  Concord  Railroad. 
Lawrence  to  Boston,  Boston  &  Maine  Railroad. 

Wo.  1«.  —  Reverse  of  No.  15,  $19.00. 

Wo.  IT.  —  Boston  to  Upper  Dam,  Androscoggin  Lakes,  Me.,  via  White 
Mountains  and  Dixville  Notch.    Return  via  Andover  and  Bryant's  Pond. 
Distance,  547 miles;  time,  4  days;  cost,  $20.10. 


306  FARRAR'S   ILLUSTRATED    GUIDE   TO 

Boston  to  Portland,  Boston  &  Maine  Railroad. 

Portland  to  Fabyan's,  Portland  &  Ogdensburg  Railroad. 

Fabyan's  to  Qroveton  Junction,  Boston,  Concord  &  Montreal  Railroad. 

Groveton  Junction  to  North  Stratford,  Grand  Trunk  Railway. 

North  Stratford  to  Colebrook,  8tas:c. 

Colebrook  to  Errol  Dam  (through  Dixvillo  Notch),  stage. 

Errol  Dam  to  Sunday  Cove,  Lake  Umbagog,  R.  R.  L.  T.  Co.'s  steamers. 

Sunday  Cove  to  Middle  Dam,  stage. 

Middle  Dam  to  Upper  Dam  Landing,  R.  R.  L.  T.  Co.'s  steamers. 

Upper  Dam  Landing  to  South  Arm,  'Lake  Welokcnnebacook,  B.  R.  I^.  T. 

Cfo.'s  steamers. 
South  Arm  to  Andover,  stage. 
Andover  to  Bryant's  Pond,  Tattle  &  Perkins'  stage. 
Bryant's  Pond  to  Portland,  Grand  Trunk  Railway. 
Portland  to  Boston,  Boston  &  Maine  Railroad. 

No.  18.  — Reverse  of  No.  17;  cost,  $20.10. 

Wo.  19. —  Boston  to  Upper  Dam,  Androscoggin  Lakes,  Me.,  and  Dixville 
Notch,  via  Andover,  and  return. 

Distance,  496  miles;  time,  6  days;  cost,  $19.50. 

Boston  to  Portland,  rail. 

Portland  to  Bryant's  Pond,  Grand  Tnmk  Railway. 

Bryant's  Pond  to  Andover,  Tuttle  &  Perkins'  stage. 

Andover  to  South  Arm,  Lake  Welokcnnebacook,  stage. 

South  Arm  to  Upper  Dam  Landing,  R.  R.  L.  T.  Co.'s  steamers. 

Upper  Dam  Landing  to  Middle  Dam,  R.  R.  L.  T.  Co.'s  steamers. 

Middle  Dam  to  Sunday  Cove,  Lake  Umbagog,  stage. 

Sunday  Cove  to  Errol  Dam,  R.  R.  L.  T.  Co.'s  steamers, 

Errol  Dam  to  Dixville  Notch,  stage. 

Return  same  way. 

Wo.  ao.  — Boston  to  Upper  Dam,  Androscoggin  Lakes.  Me.,  via  Andover. 
Return  via  Dixville  Notch  and  the  White  Mountains. 

Diptauce,  476  miles ;  time,  4  days ;  cost,  $20.10. 

Boston  to  Portland.  Eastern  Railroad. 

Portland  to  Bryant's  Pond,  Grand  Trunk  Railway. 

Bryant's  Pond  to  Andover,  Tuttle  &  Perkins'  stage. 

Andover  to  South  Arm,  Lake  Welokcnnebacook,  stage. 

South  Arm  to  Upper  Dam  Landing,  R.  R.  L.  T.  Co.'s  steamers. 

Upper  Dam  Landing  to  Middle  Dam,  R.  R.  L.  T.  Co.'s  steamers. 

Middle  Dam  to  Sunday  Cove,  Lake  Umbagog,  stage. 

Sunday  Cove  to  Errol  Dam,  R.  R.  L.  T.  Co.'s  steamers. 

Errol  Dam  to  Colebrook  (tlirough  Dixville  Notch),  stage. 

Colebrook  to  North  Stratford,  stage. 

North  Stratford  to  Groveton  Junction,  Grand  Trunk  Railway. 

Groveton  Junction  to  Fabyan's,  Boston,  Concord,  &  Montreal  Railroad. 

Fabyan's  to  North  Conway,  Portland  &  Ogdensburg  Railroad. 

North  Conway  to  Boston,  Eastern  Railroad. 

No.  ai.  —Reverse  of  No.  20,  $20.10. 

Wo.  33.  —  Boston  to  Upper  Dam,  Androscoggin  Lakes,  Me.,  via  Boston, 
Concord  &  Montreal  Railroad,  and  Dixville  Notch.  Return  via  Lake  Umbagog, 
Cambridge,  and  Bethel. 

Distance,  524  miles;  time,  4  days;  cost,  $21.00. 

Boston  to  Concord,  Boston,  Lowell  &  Concord  Railroad. 

Concord  to  Groveton  Junction,  Boston,  Concord  &  Montreal  Railroad. 

Groveton  Junction  to  North  Stratford,  Grand  Trunk  Railway. 

North  Stratford  to  Colebrook,  stage. 

Colebrook  (through  Dixville  Notch)  to  Errol  Dam,  stage. 


THE  ANDKOSCOGGIN   LAKES.  307 

Errol  Dam  to  Sunday  Cove,  R.  R.  L.  T.  Co.'s  steamers. 

Sunday  Cove  to  Middle  Dam,  stage. 

Middle  Dam  to  Upper  Dam  Landing,  R.  R.  L.  T.  Co.'s  steamer*. 

Upper  Dam  Landing  to  Middle  Dam,  R.  R.  L.  T.  Co.'o  steamers. 

Middle  Dam  to  Sunday  Cove,  stage. 

Sundiiy  Cove  to  Lakeside,  Cambridge,  R.  R.  L.  T.  Co.'s  steamers. 

Cambridge,  Lake  Umbagog,  to  Bethel,  Lane's  stage. " 

Bethel  to  Portland,  Grand  Trunk  Railway. 

Portland  to  Boston,  rail. 

No.  33.  —  Boston  to  Upper  Dam,  Androscoggin  Lakes,  Mo.,  via  Coletictk 
and  DixviDe  Notch,  N.H.,  and  return. 

Distance,  596  miles;  time,  4  days;  cost,  $19.00, 

Boston  to  Portland,  rail. 

Portland  to  North  Stratford,  Grand  Trunk  Railway. 

North  Stratford  to  Colebrook,  stage. 

Colebrook  (through  Dixville  Notch)  to  Errol  Dam,  stage. 

Eirol  Dam  to  Sund.ny  Cove,  R.  R.  L.  T.  Co.'s  steamers. 

Sunday  Cove,  L.ake  Umbagog,  to  Middle  Dam,  stage. 

Middle  Dam  to  Upper  Dam  Landing,  R.  R.  L.  T.  Co.'s  steamers. 
Return  same  way. 

]\o.  34.  —  Boston  to  Upper  Dam,  Androscoggin  Lakes,  Me.,  via  Bethel  and 
Cambridge,  Lake  Umbagog.  Return  via  Dixville  Notch  and  the  White  Moun- 
tains. 

Distance,  561  miles;  time,  4  days;  cost,  $21.60. 

Boston  to  Portland,  Boston  &  Maine  Railroad. 

Portland  to  Bethel,  Grand  Trunk  Railway. 

Bethel  to  Cambridge,  Lake  Umbagog,  Lane's  stage. 

Lakeside,  Cambridge,  to  Sunday  Cove,  R,  R.  L.  T.  Co.'s  steamers. 

Sundav  Cove  to  Middle  Dam,  stage. 

Middle  Dam  to  Upper  Dam  Landing,  R.  R.  L.  T.  Co.'s  steamers. 

Upper  Dam  Landing  to  Middle  Dam,  II.  R.  L.  T.  Co.'s  steamers. 

Middle  Dam  to  Sunday  Cove,  Lake  Umbagog,  stage. 

Sunday  Cove  to  Errol  Dam,  R.  R.  L.  T.  Co.'s  steamers. 

Errol  iJam  to  Colebrook  (through  Dixville  Notch),  stage. 

Colebrook  to  North  Stratford,  stage. 

North  Stratford  to  Grovcton  .Junction,  Grand  Trunk  Railway. 

Grovcton  Junction  to  Fabyan's,  Boston,  Concord  &  Montreal  Railroad. 

Fabyan's  to  Portland,  Portland   &  Ogdcnsburg  Railroad. 

Portland  to  Boston,  IJoston  &  Maine  Railroad. 

Wo.  35.  —Reverse  of  No.  24;  cost,  $21.60. 

No.  86.  —  Boston  to  Upper  Dam,  Androscoggin  Lakes,  Me.,  via  Grand 
Trunk  Railway  and  Dixville  Notch.  Return  via  Dixville  Notch,  and  Bonton, 
Concord  &  Montreal  Hail  road. 

Distance,  586  miles ;  time,  4  days ;  cost,  $22.00 

Boston  to  Portland,  rail. 

Portland  to  North  Stratford,  Grand  Trunk  Railway. 

North  Stratford  to  (Jolebrook,  stage. 

Colebrook  (through  Dixville  Notch)  to  Errol  Dam,  stage. 

Errol  Dam  to  Sunday  Cove,  Lake  Umbagog  R.  R.  L.  T.  Co.'s  steamers. 

Sunday  Cove  to  Middle  Dam,  stage. 

Middle  Dam  to  Upper  Dam  Landing,  R.  R.  L.  T.  Go's  steamers. 

Upper  Dam  I.,andiug  to  Middle  Dam,  R.  R.  L.  T.  Go's  steamers. 

Middle  Dam  to  Sunday  Cove,  Lake  Umbagog,  stage. 

Sunday  Cove  to  Errol  Dam,  R.  R.  L.  T.  Go's  steamers. 

Errol  Dam  (through  Dixville  Notch)  to  Colebrook,  stage. 


308  FARRAR'S   ILLUSTRATED   GUIDE  TO 

Colebrook  to  North  Stratford,  stage. 

North  Stratford  to  Grovcton  Junction,  Grand  Trunk  Railway. 
Groveton  Junction  to  Concord,  Boston,  Concord  &  Montreal  Railroad. 
Concord  to  Boston,  Boston,  Lowell,  &  Concord  liailroad. 

No.  ar.  — Reverse  of  No.  26;  $22.00. 

Wo.  28.  —  Boston  to  Upper  Dam,  Androscoggin  Lakes,  Me.,  via  Concor'l 
and  Dixvillc  Notch,  N.H.,  and  return. 

Distance,  574  miles ;  time,  4  days ;  cost,  $23.50. 

Boston  to  Concord,  Boston,  Lowell  and  Concord  Railroad. 
Concord  to  Groveton  Junction,  Boston,  Concord  &  Montreal  Railroad. 
Groveton  Junction  to  North  Stratford,  Grand  Trunk  Railway. 
North  Stratford  to  Colebrook,  stage. 
Colebrook  (through  Dixvillc  Notch)  toErrol  Dam,  stage. 
Errol  Dam  to  Sunday  Cove,  Lake  Umbagog,  R.  R.  L.  T.  Co.'s  steamers. 
Sunday  Cove  to  Middle  Dam,  stage. 

Middle  Dam  to  Upper  Dam  Landing,  R.  R.  L.  T.  Co.'s  steamers. 
Return  same  way. 

No.  20.  —  Boston  to  Indian  Rock,  Me.,  via  Bryant's  Pond  and  AndoTcr, 
and  return. 

Distance,  450  miles ;  time,  4  days ;  cost,  $14.00. 

Boston  to  Portland,  rail. 

Portland  to  Byrant's  Pond,  Grand  Trunk  Railway. 

Bryant's  Pond  to  Andovcr,  Tuttle  &  Perkins'  stage. 

AJidover  to  South  Arm,  Lake  Wclokcnnebacook,  st-igc. 

South  Ann  to  Upper  Dam  Landing,  R.  R.  L.  T.  Co.'s  steamers. 

One-eighth  mile  walk  between  steamers.    Extra  expense  for  transporting 


Upper  Dam  to  Indian  Rock,  steamer. 

Return  same  way. 

Wo.  30.  —Boston  to  Indian  Rock,  Me.,  via  Andover.    Return  via  Phillips. 
Distance,  472  miles;  time,  4  days;  cost,  $15.25. 

Boston  to  Portland,  rail. 

Portland  to  Bryant's  Pond,  Grand  Trunk  Railway. 

Bryant's  Pond  to  Andover,  Tuttle  &  I'erkins'  stage. 

Andover  to  South  Arm,  Lake  Welokeunebacook,  stage. 

South  Arm  to  Upper  Dam  Landing,  R.  R.  L.  T.  Co.'s  steamers. 

One-eighth  mile  walk  between  steamers.    Extra  expense  for  transporting 
baggage. 
Upper  Dam  to  Indian  Rock,  steamer. 

Walk  across  carry  two  miles  to  Oquossoc  Lake. 
Oqnossoc  Outlet  to  Rangelcy  or  Greenvale,  steamer. 
Kangeley  or  Greenvale  to  Phillips,  stage. 
Phillips  to  Farmington,  Sandy  River  Uailroad. 
Farmington  to  Portland,  Maine  Central  Railroad. 
Portland  to  Boston,  rail. 

Wo.  31.  —  Reverse  of  No.  30;  cost,  $15.25. 

Wo.  32. —  Boston  to  Indian  Rock,  Me.,  via  Bethel  and  Cambridge,  Lake 
Umbagog. 

Distance,  486  miles;  time,  4  days;  cost,  $17.00. 
Boston  to  Portland,  rail. 
Portland  to  Bethel,  Grand  Trunk  Railway. 
Bethel  to  Cambridge,  Lake  Umbagog,  line's  stage. 
Lakeside,  Cambridge  to  Sunday  Cove,  R.  R.  L.  T.  Co.'s  steamers. 
Sunday  Cove  to  Middle  Dam,  stage. 


THE   ANDKOSCOGGIN   LAKES.  309 

Middle  Dam  to  Upper  Dam  Landing,  R.  R.  L.  T.  Co. '8  steamers. 
One-eighth  mile  walJi  between  steamers.    Extra  expense  for  transporting 
b-aggage. 
Upper  Dam  Landing  to  Indian  Rock,  steamer. 
Return  same  way. 

No.  33.  — Boston  to  Indian  Rock,  Me.,  via  Bethel  and  Cambridge,  Lake 
Umbagog.    Return  via  Andover  and  Bryant's  Pond. 

Distance,  472  miles;  time,  4  days;  cost,  $16.00. 
Boston  to  Portland,  rail. 
Portland  to  Bethel,  Grand  Trunk  Railway. 
Bethel  to  Cambridge,  Lake  Umbagog,  Lane's  stage. 
Lakeside,  Cambridge  to  Sunday  Cove,  R.  R.  L.  T.  Co.'s  steamers. 
Sunday  Cove  to  Middle  Dam,  stage. 

Middle  Dam  to  Upper  Dam  Landing,  R.  R.  L.  T.  Co.'s  steamers. 
One-eighth  mile  walk  between  steamers.    Extra  expense  for  transporting 
baggage. 
Upper  Dam  Landing  to  Indian  Rock,  steamer. 
Indian  Rock  to  Upper  Dam  Landing,  steamer. 
One-eighth-mile  walk  between  steamers.    Extra  expense  for  transporting 


Upper  Dam  Landing  to  South  Arm,  R.  R.  L.  T.  Oo.'a  steamers. 

South  Arm  to  Andover,  stage. 

Andover  to  Bryant's  Pond,  Tuttle  &  Perkins'  stage. 

Bryant's  Pond  to  Portland,  Grand  Trunk  Railway. 

Portland  to  Boston,  rail. 

No.  34.  — Reverse  of  No.  33;  cost,  $16.00. 

No.  3n.  —  Boston  to  Bemis  Stream,  Me.,  via  Bryant's  Pond,  Andover,  and 
Upper  Dam,  and  return. 

Distance,  444  miles;  time,  4  days;  cost,  $14.00. 
Boston  to  Portland,  rail. 

Portland  to  Bryant's  Pond,  Grand  Trunk  Railway. 
Bryant's  Pond  to  Andover,  Tuttle  &  Perkins'  stage. 
Andover  to  South  Arm,  Lake  Welokennebacook,  stage. 
South  Arm  to  Upper  Dam  Landing,  R.  R.  L.  T.  Co.'s  steamers. 
One-eighth-mile  walk  between  steamers.    Extra  expense  for  transporting 
baggage. 
Upper  Dam  Landing  to  Bemis  Stream,  steamer. 
Return  same  way. 

No.  36.  —  Boston  to  Bemis  Stream,  Me.,  via  Bethel,  Cambridge,  Lake 
Umbagog,  Middle  Dam,  Upper  Dam,  and  return. 

Distance,  472  miles;  time,  4  days;  cost,  $17.00. 
Boston  to  Portland,  rail. 
Portland  to  Bethel,  Grand  Trunk  Railway. 
Bethel  to  Cambridge,  Lake  Umbagog,  Lane's  stage. 
Lakeside,  Cambridge  to  Sunday  Cove,  R.  R.  L.  T.  Co.'s  steamers. 
Sunday  Cove  to  Middle  Dam,  stage. 

Middle  Dam  to  Upper  Dam  Landing,  R.  R.  h-  T.  Co.'s  steamers. 
One-eigbth-mile  walk  between  steamers.    Extra  expense  for  transporting 
baggage. 
Upper  Dam  Landing  to  Bemis  Stream,  steamer. 
Return  same  way. 

No.  37.  —  Boston  to  Bemis  Stream,  Me.,  via  Bryant's  Pond,  Andover,  and 
Upper  Dam.  Return  via  Upper  Dam,  Middle  Dam,  Lake  Umbagog,  Cam- 
bridge, and  Bethel. 


310  FARRAR'S   ILLUSTRATED   GUIDE   TO 

Distance,  467  miles;  time,  4  days;  cost,  $10.00. 
Boston  to  Portland,  rail. 

Portland  to  Bryant's  Pond,  Grand  Trunk  Railway. 
Bryant's  Pond  to  Andover,  Tattle  &  Perkins*  stage. 
Andover  to  South  Arm,  Lake  VVelokennebacook,  stage. 
South  Arm  to  Upper  Dam  Landing,  li.  U.  L.  T.  Co.'b  steamers. 

One-eighth  mile  walk  between  steamers.    Extra  expense  for  transporting 
baggage. 
Upper  Dam  Landing  to  Bemis  Stream,  steamer. 
Bemis  Stream  to  Upper  Dam  Landing,  steamer. 

One-eighth  mile  walk  between  steamers.    Extra  expense  for  transporting 
baggage, 
l^pper  Dam  Landing  to  Middle  Dam,  R.  R.  L.  T.  Co.'s  steamers. 
Middle  Dam  to  Sunday  Cove,  Lake  Umbagog,  stage. 
Sunday  Cove  to  Lakeside,  Cambridge,  It.  R.  L.  T.  Co.'s  steamers. 
Cambridge,  Lake  Umbagog  to  Bethel,  Lane's  stage. 
Bethel  to  Portland,  Grand  Trunk  Railway. 
Portland  to  Boston,  rail. 

iVo.  38.  —Reverse  of  No.  37;  cost,  f  16.00. 

IVo.  39.  —  Boston  to  Lakeside,  Cambridge  Lake,  Umbagog,  and  return. 

Distance,  416  miles ;  time,  2  days ;  cost,  $12.00. 
Boston  to  Portland,  rail. 
Portland  to  Bethel,  Grand  Trunk  Railway. 
Bethel  to  Lakeside,  Cambridge,  Lake  Umbagog,  Lane's  stage. 
Return  same  way. 

No.  40.—  Boston  to  Errol  Dam,  Lake  Umbagog,  and  rolurn. 

Distance,  532  miles ;  time,  u  days ;  cost,  $19.00. 
Boston  to  Concord,  Boston,  Lowell  &  Concord  Railroad. 
Concord  to  Grovetou  Junction,  Boston,  Coucord  &  Montreal  Railroad. 
Groveton  Junction  to  North  Stratford,  Grank  Trunk  liail  way. 
North  Stratford  to  Colebrook,  stage. 
Colebrook  to  Errol  Dam,  stage. 

Return  same  way. 

No.  41.— Boston  to  Magalloway   (Berlin  Mills  House)   and    return,  via 
Bethel  and  Cambridge,  Lake  Umbagog. 

Distance,  466  miles;  time,  3  days;  cot>t,  $14.50. 

Boston  to  Portland,  rail. 
Portland  to  Bethel,  Grand  Trunk  Railway. 
Bethel  to  Lakeside,  Cambridge,  Lake  Umbagog,  Lane's  stage. 
Lakeside,  Cambridge  to  Magalloway  (Berlin  Mills  House),  R.  R.  L.  T.  Co.'s 
steamers. 

Return  same  way. 

No.  42.  —  Boston  to  Magalloway  (Berlin  Mills  House)  and  return,  via  Bry- 
ant's Pond  and  Andover. 

Distance,  458  miles;  time,  4  days;  cost,  $16.00. 
Boston  to  Portland,  rail. 

Portland  to  Bryant's  Pond,  Grand  Trunk  Railway. 
Bryant's  Pond  to  Andover,  Tuttle  &  Perkins'  stage. 
Andover  to  South  Arm  Lake  Welokennebacook,  stage. 
South  Arm  to  Middle  Dam,  R.  R.  L.  T.  Co.'s  steamers. 
Middle  Dam  to  Sunday  Cove,  stage. 

Sunday  Cove  to  Magalloway  (Berlin  Mills  House) ,  R.  K.  L.  T.  Co.'*  ateamers. 
Return  same  way. 


THE   ANDKOSCOGGIN    LAKES.  311 

IVo.  43. — •oston  to  Magiilloway  (Berlin  Mills  House),  via  Bryant's  I'oud 
aud  Andovcr.     Return  via  I^akeside,  Cambridg^e,  and  Bethel. 
Distance,  488  miles;  time,  4  days;  cost,  $17.00. 
Boston  to  Portland,  rail. 

Portland  to  Bryant's  Pond,  Grand  Trunk  Railway. 
Bryant's  Pond  to  Andover,  Tuttle  &  Perkins'  stage. 
Audover  to  South  Arm  Lake  Welokennebacook,  stage. 
South  Arm  to  Middle  Dam,  R.  R.  L.  T.  Co.'s  steamers. 
Middle  Dam  to  Sunday  Cove,  stage. 
Sunday  Cove  to  Magalloway,  R.  R.  L.  T.  Co.'s  steamers. 
Mugalloway  to  I-akeside,  Cambridge,  R.  R.  L.  T.  Co.'s  steamers. 
Lakeside,  Cambridge,  N.H.,  to  Bethel,  Lane's  stage. 
Bethel  to  Portland,  Grand  Trunk  Railway. 
Portland  to  Boston,  rail. 

IVo.  44.  — Boston  to  Magalloway  (Berlin  Mills  House)  via  North  Stratfiird 
and  Colebrook,  aud  return. 

Distance,  586  miles ;  time,  3  days ;  cost,  $16.50. 
Boston  to  Portland,  rail. 

Portland  to  North  Stratford,  Grand  Trunk  Railway. 
North  Stratford  to  Colebrook,  stage. 

Colebrook  (through  Dixville  Notch)  to  Errol  Dam,  stage. 
Errol  Dam  to  Magalloway  (River  Landing)  R.  R.  L.  T.  Co.'s  steamers. 
Return  same  way. 

IVo.  455. — Boston  to  Magalloway  (Berlin  Mills  House),  via  Boston,  Con- 
cord &  Montreal  Railroad,  and  Dixville  Notch.  Return  via  Lake  Umbagog, 
Cambridge,  Bethel,  and  Grand  Trunk  Railway. 

Distance,  518  miles;  time,  4  days;  cost,  $19.00. 
Boston  to  Concord,  Boston,  Lowell  &  Concord  Railroad. 
Concord  to  Grovetoa  Junction,  Boston,  Concord  &  Montreal  Railroad. 
Groveton  Junction  to  North  Stratford,  Grand  Trunk  Railway. 
North  Stratford  to  Colebrook,  stage. 

Colebrook  (through  Dixville  Notch)  to  Errol  Dam,  stage. 
Errol  Dam  to  Magalloway  River  Landing,  R.  R.  L.  T.  Co.'s  steamers. 
Magalloway  River  Lauding  to  Lakeside,  Cambridge,  R.  R.  L.  T.  Co.'s  steamers. 
Cambridge,  Lake  Umbagog,  to  Bethel,  Lane's  stage. 
Bethel  to  Portland,  Grand  "rrunk  Railway. 
Portland  to  Boston,  rail. 

]Vo.40.  —  Boston  to  Colebrook,  N.H.,  and  return. 

Distance,  510  miles;  time,  2  days;  cost,  $13.00. 
Boston  to  Portland,  by  rail. 

Portland  to  North  Stratford,  Grand  Trunk  Railway.  • 

North  Stratford  to  Colebrook,  stage. 

Return  same  way. 

No.  47.  —  Boston  to  Colebrook,  N.H.,  and  return. 

Distance,  488  miles ;  time,  2  days ;  cost,  $13.00. 
Boston  to  Concord,  Boston,  Lowell  &  Concord  Railroad. 
Concord  to  Groveton  Junction,  Boston,  Concord,  &  Montreal  Railroad. 
Groveton  Junction  to  North  Stratford,  Grand  Trunk  Railway. 
North  Stratford  to  Colebrook,  stage. 

Return  same  way. 

No.  48.  —  Boston  to  Colebrook,  N.H.,  via  Bethel,  Cambridge,  Lake  Umba- 
goj,  Dixville  Notch,  and  return. 


312  FARRAR'S   ILLUSTRATED   GUIDE  TO 

Distance,  496  miles ;  time,  4  days ;  cost,  $17.50.  * 
Boston  to  Portlaud,  rail. 
I'ortland  to  Betiiel,  Grand  Trunk  Hallway. 
13etliel  to  Cambridge,  Lake  Umbagog,  Lane's  stage. 
Lakeside,  Cambridge,  to  Errol  Dam,  il.  R.  L.  T.  Co.'s  steamers. 
Erroi  Dam  to  Colebrook  (through  Dixville  Notch),  stage. 
Return  same  way. 

No.  49.  —  Boston    to  Dixville  Notch,  N.H.,  via  Bethel  and  Cambridge, 
Lake  Umbagog.    Return  via  Colebrook. 

Distance,  504  miles;  time,  4  days;  cost,  $14.00. 
Boston  to  Portland,  rail. 
Portland  to  Bethel,  Grand  Trunk  Railway. 
Bethel  to  Cambridge,  Lake  Umbagog,  I/ane's  stage. 
Lakeside,  Cambridge  to  Errol  Dam,  li.  R.  L.  T.  Co.'s  steamers. 
Errol  Dam  (through  Dixville  Notch)  to  Colebrook,  stage. 
Colebrook  to  North  Stratford,  stage. 
North  Stratford  to  Portland,  Grand  Trunk  Railway. 
Portland  to  Boston,  rail. 

No.  50.  —  Reverse  of  No.  46.    $14.00. 

No.  51.  —  Boston  to  Dixville  Notch,  N.H.,  and  return,  via   Bethel    and 
Cambridge,  Lake  Umbagog. 

Distance,  470  miles ;  time,  4  days ;  cost,  $14.50. 
Boston  to  Portland,  rail. 
Portland  to  Bethel,  Grand  Trunk  Railway. 
Bethel  to  Lakeside,  Cambridge,  Lake  Umbagog,  Lane's  stage. 
Cambridge,  Lake  Umbagog  to  Errol  Dam,  R.  R.  L.  T.  Co.'s  steamers. 
Errol  Dam  to  Dixville  Notch,  stage. 

Return  same  way. 

No.  63.  —  Boston  to  Dixville  Notch,  N.H.,  via  Boston,  Concord  Ac  Montreal 
Railroad.    Return  via  Lake  Umbagog,  Cambridge,  and  Bethel. 
Distance,  494  miles;  time,  4  days;  cost,  $17.50. 
Boston  to  Concord,  Boston,  Lowell  &  Concord  Railroad. 
Concord  to  GIroveton  Junction,  Boston,  Concord  &  Montreal  Railroad. 
Groveton  Junction  to  North  Stratford,  Grand  Trunk  Railway. 
North  Stratford  to  Colebrook,  stage. 
Colebrook  to  Dixville  Notch,  stage. 
Dixville  Notch  to  Errol  Dam,  stage. 

Errol  Dam  to  Lakeside,  Cambridge,  R.  R.  L.  T.  Co.'s  steamers. 
Cambridge,  Lake  Umbagog  to  Bethel,  Lane's  stage. 
Bethel  to  Portland,  Grand  Trunk  Railway. 
Portland  to  Boston,  rail. 

*  Tickete  for  Excursions  Nos.  1,  2,  3,  4,  6,  6,  7,  8,  9,  10, 11, 12, 13, 14, 19,  23,  29, 
.  80,  31,  32,  33,  34,  35,  36,  37,  38,  39,  41,  42,  43,  44,  45,  46,  48,  49,  50,  51  and  52  are 
issued  by  the  Grand  Trunk  Railwat,  and  may  be  obtained  in  Boston  at  the 
New  England  OfQce,  280  Washington  street.  Persons  purchasing  tickets  of  the 
Grand  Trunk  issue  have  the  privilege  of  traveling  over  either  of  the  following 
routes  between  Boston  and  Portland;  Eastern  Railroad,  Boston  &  Maine 
Railroad,  or  Portland  steamers.  When  persons  travel  by  steamer  each  way 
between  Boston  and  Portland,  the  tickets  cost  $L00  less  than  printed  rate.  The 
same  tickets  are  also  issued  from  Portland;  rates  $3.00  less  than  from  Boston. 
Ticket  offices  in  Portland,  on  Exchange  street,  and  at  depot,  foot  of  India  street. 
From  Lewiston  $4.00  less  than  from  Boston.  Ticket  office  in  Lewiston  at 
Grand  Trunk  Railway  Depot. 


THE   ANDROSCOGGIN    LAKES.  313 

Excursion  tickets  Nos.  1,  2,  3,  4,  5,  6,  7,  8,  9,  10, 11,  12,  13, 14, 15, 16, 17,  18, 
ly,  23,  24,  25,  26,  27,  29,  30,  31,  32,  33,  34,  35,  36,  37,  38,  39,  41,  42,  43,  44,  46,  48, 
49,  60,  and  51  arc  issued  by  the  Boston  &  Maine  Railboad,  and  may  be 
obtained  at  the  depot,  Ilaymarket  square,  head  of  Washington  street,  and  at  the 
up-town  office,  280  Washington  street;  also  at  the  depots  of  the  company  in 
Lowell,  Lawrence,  Haverhill,  Newmarket  Junction,  Exeter,  and  Dover. 


Excursion  tickets  Nos.  1,  2,  3,  4,  5,  6,  7,  8,  9, 10, 11, 12, 13, 14, 19,  20,  21,  23, 
26,  27,  29,  30,  31,  32,  33,  34,  35,  36,  37,  38,  39,  41,  42,  43,  44,  46,  48,  49,  50,  and  61 
are  issued  by  the  Ea8Ti;rn  Railroad,  and  may  be  obtained  at  the  com- 
pany's up-town  office,  306  Washington  street,  and  at  the  depot,  Causeway 
street,  opposite  Friend ;  also  at  the  depots  of  the  company  In  Lynn,  Salem,  New- 
buryport,  and  Portsmouth. 

Excursion  tickets  Nos.  13, 14,  22,  26,  27,  28,  40,  45,  47,  and  52  are  issued  by 
the  Boston,  Concord  8^  Montreal  Railroad,  and  may  be  obtained  in  Boston 
at  the  company's  office,  No.  5  State  street,  240  Washington  street,  and  at  the 
Boston  &  Lowell  Railroad  depot,  Causeway  street;  also  at  the  depots  of  the 
company  at  Concord,  Plymouth,  Fabyan's,  Profile  House,  and  Lancaster. 


Excursion  tickets  Nos.  1,  2,  3,  4,  5,  6,  7,  8,  9,  10, 11, 12, 13,  14,  19,  23,  29,  30, 
31,  32,  33,  34,  35,  36,  37,  38,  39,  41,  42,  43,  44,  45,  46,  48,  49,  60,  61,  and  52  are 
Issued  by  the  Worcester  &  Nashua  Railroad  Company,  and  are  for  sale  at 
Union  depot,  Worcester,  and  at  depots  in  Nashua  and  Rochester.  Rates  from 
Worcester  $1.50  more  than  from  Boston. 


Excursion  Tickets  Nos.  1,  2,  3,  4,  5,  6,  7,  8,  9,  10, 11,  12, 13, 14,  19,  23,  29,  30, 
31,  32,  33,  34,  35,  36,  37,  39,  41,  42,  43,  44,  45,  46,  48,  49,  60,  51,  and  52  are  issued 
by  the  Providence  &  Worcester  Railroad  Company,  from  Providence" 
and  are  for  sale  at  the  depots  and  offices  of  the  company  in  Providence.  Rates 
from  Providence  $1.60  more  than  from  Boston. 


Excursion  tickete  Nos.  1,  2,  3,  4,  5,  6,  7,  8,  9, 10, 11, 12,  13,  14,  19,  23,  29,  30, 
31,  32,  33,  34,  35,  36,  37,  38,  39,  41,  42,  43,  44,  45,  46,  48,  49,  60,  61,  and  62  are 
issued  by  the  Portland  Steam-Packet  Company,  and  are  for  sale  in  Boston 
at  Grand  Trunk  Railway  Office,  280  Washington  street,  and  on  board  the 
company's  steamers  at  India  Wharf. 


Excursion  tickets  Nos.  SO  and  31  are  issued  by  the  Maine  Central  Rail- 
road from  Portland,  Lewiston,  Brunswick,  Bath,  Augunta,  Watervillc,  and 
Bangor,  and  are  for  sale  at  the  company's  offices  in  those  places. 


314  FAUUAR'S    ILLUSTRATED   GUIDE. 

Tub  NoRwicn  and  New  York  Transportation  Company  also  Bell 
Excursion  Tickets  to  the  Ilangelcy  T^lvcs  region  from  New  York  City,  over  tiie 
"  Norwich  Line,"  and  the  Nkw  York  &  New  England  Uailroad,  who 
have  tickets  ou  sale  at  Watcrbury,  Hartford,  Norwich,  Putuaiu,  Webster, 
Willlmantic,  Bristol,  New  Britain,  Itockviiie,  Daubury,  and  Southbridgc. 
Round-trip  tickets  are  also  sold  over  the  New  York  &  New  England  All 
RAIL  RocTB,  from  Washington,  Baltimore,  Philadelphia,  and  New  York. 


The  Pknnstlvanla  Railroad  Company  issue  nearly  all  the  Excursion 
Ticket  Forms  given  in  this  chapter  to  Audover,  Bethel,  Cambridge,  Lake 
Umbagog,  the  Magalloway,  Dixville  Notch,  and  the  Androscoggin  Lakts,  frn-i 
all  the  principal  cities  touched  by  their  road,  as  well  as  the  Philadelphia,  Wil- 
mington &  Baltimore,  and  Baltimore  &  Potomac  liailroads.  Persons  pur- 
chasing these  tickets  have  a  choice  of  routes  between  New  York  and  the  Lake 
Region.  See  list  of  tickets  in  the  Pennsylvania  Railroad  Excursion  Book  for 
the  current  season. 


Tub  Philadblpuia  &  Reading  Railroad  Company  issue  Rouud-Tiip 
Excursion  Tickets  from  Philadelphia  nxxd  other  cities  touched  by  their  road,  to 
the  Lakes,  and  they  may  be  obtained  at  any  tlcket-oflice  of  (he  company. 


Tub  Providence,  Stonington,  and  Fall  ICiver  Sound  Lines  all  sell 
Excursion  Tickets  from  New  York  to  the  Lake  Region,  and  most  of  the  Forms 
mentioned  in  this  chapter  can  be  obtained  at  any  of  their  ticket-offices. 


MssSBS.  TuoMAs  Cook  &  Son,  261  Broadway,  New  York  City,  have  foi-  sale 
all  the  Excursion  Tickets  mentioned  in  this  chapter  at  regular  rates. 


INDEX. 


AccidentB,  24,  32,  89,  40. 

Andover,  Me.,  43,  44,  67,  75,  203,  217, 

237-241,  243-246, 253. 
Androscoggin  river,  47,  48,  55,  71, 197, 

204,  208,  210, 217-221,  239,  263-266. 
Angler's  Retreat,  63. 
Andover  House,  73,  239,  240,  243-246. 
Aziscohos   Mountain,   111,    131,    218, 

223-229. 
Allerton  Lodge,  131. 
Alpine  House,  173,  208, 
Alpine  Cascade,  211. 
Aziscohos  Falls,  223,  228,  229. 

Black  Flies,  19,  21,  31. 

Baggage,  23,  44, 100, 104,  155. 

Bryant's  Pond,  Me.,  41,  43,45,  67,  202, 
203,217,237,239. 

Bethel,  Me.,  41,  43-45,  47,  204,  217. 

Boston  &  Maine  liailroad,  43,  177. 

Bethel  House,  45,  204. 

Rearlilver,  48,  49,  51,52. 
"        "      White  Cap,  49. 

Boarding  Houses,  73,  240. 

Buckboards,  73,  240. 

Black  Brook,  75,  77,  79,  80,  244. 
"  '<        Notch,  79,  80,  243. 244. 

Blue  Mountain,  79,  244. 

Bailey's  Point,  87. 

Black  Point,  95. 

Boston  Club,  9J. 

Beaver  Brook,  104,  229. 

Birch  Lodge,  108, 110. 

Beaver  Pond,  113. 

Bemis'  Stream,  129, 130. 

Bald  Mountain,  130, 131,  133,  137,  147. 

Bugle  Cove,  131, 133. 

Boundy  Point,  131, 136. 

Buckfleld  Camp,  134. 

Birch  Island,  137. 

Black  Cat  Brook,  140. 

Harden  House,  168. 

Beech  Hill,  171. 

Berlin  Falls,  173, 174,  208-211,  217,221. 

Boston,  Concord,  &  Montreal  Railroad, 
■  175-184,  213. 

Boston  &  Lowell  Railroad,  177. 

Bethlehem  &    Franconia  Notch  Rail- 
road, 181. 

Brunswick  Springs,  184, 185. 


Beaver  Falls,  186,  188. 

Berlin  Mills  House,  190,  218,  223,  224, 

264. 
Bragg's  Hotel,  191. 
Big  Jileadow,  221. 
Bear  Brook,  223. 
Battle  Brook,  223. 
Brown  Farm,  224,  225. 
Beaver  Hill,  229. 
Bag  Brook,  230. 
Bose-Buck  Cove,  232. 

"        "       Mountain,  232. 
Big  Eddy,  235. 
Bald  Pale  Mountain,  250,  251,  253-257. 

Cupsuptic  Lake,  15,  136,  137. 

Camping  out,  18,  19,  22-40. 

Clothing,  21-23,  264. 

Camping  outfit,  22-25,  30. 

Camp  building,  25-28. 

Camp  furniture,  28,  29. 

Camp  cookery,  29,  30. 

Cambridge,  N.H.,  43,  44,  47,  02,  55,  57, 

190,  204,  217,  218,  263-266. 
Cambridge  River,  52. 
Cold  Spring,  63,  80. 
Cedar  Hill,  79,  80. 
Camp  Whitney,  95,  97-99. 
Camp  Aziscohos,  99. 
Camp  Bellevue,  99. 
Camp  Prospect,  308. 
Cranberry  Bog,  113. 
Camp  Bema,  129, 130. 
Cleft  Rock,  130. 
Camp  Haverhill,  133. 
Camp  Houghton,  133. 
Cupsuptic  Narrows,  138. 
"         Falls,  137, 138. 
"         River,  138, 140. 
Camp  Caribou,  140, 190,  234,  235. 
Camp  Kennebago,  141-144. 
Clear  Water  Pond,  163. 
Cascade  House,  173,  211. 
Concord,  N.H.,  177, 178. 
Colebrook,  N.H.,  186-188, 190, 191, 193, 

199,  213,  214,  217,  221. 
Connecticut  Lake,  186, 188, 189. 
Clear  Stream,  191. 
Columnar  Heights,  191,  265. 
C  Pond,  246. 


13151 


316 


INDEX. 


0  Pond  Bluff,  240. 
Cataract  Brook,  249-251,  257. 

Dressing  Fish,  30. 
Dining  Rooms,  45,  70. 
Devil's  Horseshoe,  49. 
Duck  Shooting,  55,  59,  219. 
Dixville  Notch,  N.H.,  65, 186, 187, 190, 
191,  194-197,  199,  214,  216,  217,  221, 
264-266. 
Devil's  Den,  77,  247. 

"        Oven,  81. 
Diamond  Pond,  186-188, 191,  224. 
Diz  House,  191,  194,  214,  265,  266. 
De  Witt  House,  200. 
Devil's  Slide,  211. 

"       Pulpit,  222,  223. 
Diamond  Peaks,  224,  225. 
"         River,  224,  225. 
Duck  Pond,  234. 
Dunn's  Notch,  259,  260. 

East  Kennehago  Mountain,  16. 
Excursions,    24,  44,  55,   110,  243-246, 

247-251,  253,  259-201,  263-268. 
Eastern  Railroad,  41,  43. 
Errol  Dam,  54,  173,   174,  190-193,  197, 

199,  214,  215,  217-221,  224,  263-266. 
Ellis  River,  71,  75,  237,  239,  243,  246, 

247,  266. 
East  Richardson  Ponds,  113. 
Elephant's  Hump,  131. 
Eagle  Point,  137,  218. 
Elmwood  House,  167. 
Errol  Moimtain,  218. 

"      House,  221. 
Emery's  Misery,  229. 

Fire  Arms,  29. 

Fires,  29,  31. 

Fares,  47,  59,  61,  74,  171,  173,  174, 191, 
193,  198,  301. 

Fishing,  54,  61-63,  74,  81,  84,  86,  104, 
110-115, 123,  134,  137,  143,  150,  154, 
165,186-189,191,  221,  224,  225,  229- 
231,  234-235,  243-246,  269-275. 

Forest  Lodge,  61, 63. 

French'8  Hotel,  73,  239,  240,  243-246. 

Farmer's  Hill,  73,  244,  246. 

Frye's  Camp,  136. 

Forest  Retreat  House,  164. 

Forest  House,  160. 

Farmington,  Me.,  160,  164. 

Fall  River  Line,  176. 

Franconia  Mountains,  180, 181. 

Flume,  Dixville  Notch,  191,  266. 

Fabyan's,  N.H.,  194. 

Flint's  Camp,  223, 229, 231. 
"        Lauding,  230,231. 

Frye's  Brook,  249-251. 

First  B  UiU,  260,  261. 

Qoides.  19,  25,  74,  236. 


Grand  Trunk  Railway,  41.  43,  45,  67, 

173, 182, 184, 199-213,  217. 
Gorham,  N.II.,  41,  45,  173,   174,  193, 

208  217   221 
Grafton  Notcli,  47,  51,  52,  204,  217. 
Goose-Eye  Mountain,  49,  203. 
Glen  Mountain  House,  67. 
Greenvale,  Me.,  147-150, 171. 
Greenvale  House,  148, 150. 
Groveton   Junction,    N.H.,    177,    182, 

184,  213. 
Glen  House,  193. 
Granny  Starbird's  Ledge,  207. 

Hygienic  Notes,  31-39. 
Horse  Shoe  Fails,  49. 
Hop  Yard,  63. 
Hermit  Falls,  77,  79,  247. 
Hardscrabble,  89. 
Half  Moon  Island,  95. 
Haines'  I..anding,  134. 
Hampshire  Hills,  218. 
Half  Moon  Mountain,  228. 
Hunter's  Camp,  230. 

Indian  Rock,  Me.,  184,  186,  140,  141- 

146. 
Indian  Cove,  234. 
Indian  Field  Point,  234. 
Ice  Cave,  265. 

Jacobs  Ladder,  191,  266. 
Jasper  Cve,  211. 

Kennebago  River,  16, 17. 
Falls,  16, 17. 
"  Lake,  16, 137, 164, 165. 

"  Outlet,  137. 

List  of  Illustrations,  13, 14. 

Lake  Umbagog,  15,  41,  43-46,  47,  48, 

62,  65,  69,  64,  190,  199,  204,  217,  218, 

263-266. 
Little  Kennebago,  16, 155. 
Lakeside  Hotel,  52,  54,  55,  67, 190,  204, 

217,  218,  224,  263-266. 
Loons,  63,  64,  66. 
Lead  Mountain,  71. 
Lakeview  Cottage,  74,  83,  84,  86. 
Lake  Point  Cottage,  146. 
Little  Blue  School,  164. 
Long  Pond,  171,  235. 
Lancaster,  N.H.,  182. 
Little  Magalioway,  189,  190,  229,  230, 

235. 
Leonard  Pond,  219. 
Lower  Metallic  Pond,  230. 
Lincoln  Pond.  231. 
Loon  Point,  232. 
LitUe  Boy's  Falls,  234,  235. 
Lower  Fail,  249. 


INDEX.                                          317 

Molcchunkamunk  Lake,  15,  64,  66,  91, 

Poke  Logan,  87. 

93,  94-100. 

Pine  Point,  134. 

Mooselucmaguntic  Lake,  15,  131,   133- 

Pino  Island,  137, 138. 

137. 

Parmachenee  Carry,  138, 140. 

Magalloway  River,  17,  54,  58,  140,  189, 

Phillips,  Me.,  167-171. 

190,  204,  217-234,  263,  264. 

Providence  Line,  175. 

Midges,  19,  21,  31. 

Plymouth,  N.  H.,  177, 178, 180, 181. 

Mosquitoes,  19,  21,  31. 

Peraigewasset  House,  180. 

Mount  Saddleback,  49,  52,  218. 

Pemigewasset  Valley  Railroad,  180. 

Moose  Cave,  52. 

Passurapsic  Valley  Railroad,  ISl. 

Middle  Dam,  54,  62,  63,  66,  87,  89,  199, 

Portland  &  Ogdensburg  Railroad,  181, 

214,  217. 

182. 

Moll's  Rock,  58. 

Parsons  House,  186-188,  213. 

Moll's  Carry,  58,  219. 

Profile,  Dixville  Notch,  191,  197,  215, 

Middle  Dam  Camp,  59,  61-63,  89,  197. 

265. 

Mount  Zircon,  73,  268. 

Pulpit  Rock,  191,  215. 

Moody  Ledge,  81,  82. 

Parker  Hill,  228. 

Mount  Uustau,  89,  218,  223-225. 

"    Pond  Eddy,  230. 

Metallic  Point,  91,  93,  95. 

"       Pond,  95. 

Quick  Water  Point,  219,  221. 

"       Brook,  95. 

Mosquito  Brook,  95-97. 

Round  Trip  Tickets,  23,  301. 

Mount  Observatory,  111. 

Rapid  River,  58,  63. 

Mountain  View  Mouse,  146,  147. 

Richardson  Carry,  58,  218,  219. 

Maine  Central  Railroad,  1.59,  160,  200. 

R.  R.  L.  T.  Co.,  59,  83,  84,  217,  218. 

Mammoth  Rock,  168. 

Rumford,  Me.,  70,  71. 

Mount  Blue,  170. 

Rope  Ferry,  71. 

Madrid,  Me.,  171. 

Richardson  Pond,  99,  110. 

Milan  Corner,  N.H.,  17.3,  174. 

Brook,  104, 110. 

Montpelier    and     Wells     River     Rail- 

Richardson's  Camp,  1.33,  13». 

ro.id,  181. 

Ram  Island,  147. 

Mount  Monadnock,  186-188,  213. 

Rangcley  l^ake  House,  148. 

"      Christopher,  203. 

Rangeley,  Me.,  148, 151, 152. 

"      Forest,  211. 

Rainbow  Cascade,  163,  164. 

Moose  Brook,  232,  235. 

Rump  Pond,  234,  235. 

Mount  Zircon  Mineral  Spring,  268. 

Roxbury  Pond,  243. 

"       Notch,  266. 

Newry,Me.,47,  48. 

Rumford  Falls,  266. 

Norwich  Line,  176. 

North  Stratford,    184,    18.5,    193,   194, 

Spotted  Mountain,  16. 

199,  213,  217. 

Snow  Mountain,  16. 

Nathan's  Pond,  191. 

Snowman's  Point,  16, 155. 

Seven  Ponds,  16, 155. 

Oquossoc  Lake,  15,  147-151. 

Stage  Lines,  47,  54,  67,  148,  170,  173, 

Oxford  Club  Camp,  61. 

174, 185, 188,  190, 191, 193,  203,  204. 

Oquossoc    Angling   Association,    129, 

Sunday  River,  48. 

141-144. 

"      White  Cap,  48. 

Oquossoc  Outlet,  146, 147. 

Screw  Auger  Falls,  49,  51. 

"        House,  148. 

Speckled  Mountain,  49,  61,  52,  218. 

Otter  Creek,  235. 

Sunday  Cove,  69,  190,  197,  217,  21S, 

"     Pond,  235. 

224,  263,  264,  266. 

Old  Maid  Brook,  249. 

South  Arm,  62,  74,  75.  83,  84,  87. 

Smooth  Ledge,  63. 

Parmachenee  Lake,  17,  140,   188-190, 

Silver  Ripple  Cascade,  77,  79,  247. 

204,  217,  218,  230-236. 

Sawyer  Mountain,  79,  244. 

Provisions  for  Camping,  23,  24,  30,  31. 

Sluice  Dam,  80. 

Pullman  Car  Fares,  41,  45. 

Spirit  Island,  87. 

Portland  Steam  Packet  Co.,  43-45. 

Saint's  Rest,  87. 

Portland,  Me.,  43-45, 199,  217. 

Ship  Island,  95. 

Poplar  Hotel,  48,  49. 

Scow  Landing,  129. 

Puzzle  Mountain,  49. 

Student  Island,  130,  131. 

Pond  in  the  River,  63. 

Sandy  Cove,  136. 

Pin  Hook,  69,  70. 

South  Bog  Island,  147. 

Btoddnrd  IToukp,  160. 
Bandy  llivt-r  Kjillroad,  1«0,  164-167. 
Strong,  Me.,  16). 
Sandy  River  Fall«,  170. 
"         "    I'dndB,  171. 
Btonini^n  Line,  175. 
Shore  Ijne,  176. 
St.    John«bury   &     Lake     Champlain 

Railroad,  182. 
Silver  Cascade,  191. 
Snow  Cave,  191. 

Second  Connecticut  I^l<e,  189,  234. 
Stratford  Peaks,  211. 
Stiirtevant  Toiid,  224,  225. 
Sunday  Pond,  2.31. 
Sawyer  Notcli,  246. 
"       Brook,  246. 
Sylvan  CaBcades,  250. 

The  AndroBcoggin  I^akcs,  15,  55,  74, 

203,  204. 
The  Elm*,  45,  204. 
TheJiiil,51. 
Twin  Rocks,  52. 
TeloKrapli  Lines,  84,  239. 
The  Xarrows,  !K),  91,  229,  230. 
Trout  Com-,  lOl,  129,  136. 
Toothakcr's  Island,  129, 130. 


ToothnkorV  Cove,  137. 
'I'hird  Connecticut  I^ke,  189. 
Trout  Pond,  224. 
The  Meadows,  2-30. 
Table  Kock,  191,19«,  265. 
The  Flume,  250,  251. 

Upper  Dam,  62,  74,  87,  100-107,  113, 

129. 
Upi)cr  Dam  Camp,  101, 103,  104,  106. 
Upper  Metallic  Pond,  230. 
Upper  Fall,  249,  250. 

View  of  White  Mountains,  47,  69,  90, 
204,  208,  210,  218,  226,  261. 

Welokenncbacook  I^ke,  15,  6:3,  87-91, 

214. 
Wild  Cat  Hill,  16. 

West  Kennebago  Mountain,  16,  137. 
Wentworlh's  I>ocation,  N.IL,  54,  22.'!. 
Whale's  Back,  70. 
WhiteCiip,  71,203,  204. 
West  Arm,  104,  11.3. 
Whitefi(!ld  &  Jeflerson  Railroad,  182. 
Willard  House,  J84,  213. 
Wild  River,  206. 


SPECIAL   NOTICES. 


319 


RICHARDSON  (RANGELEY)  LAKES  TRANSPORTATION 
COMPANY. 

Summer  Season,  1884,  steamboat  service  on  Lakes  Welokenne- 
bacook  and  Molechunkamank. 

One  of  the  new  and  favorite  steamers,  Welokennebacook  or 
MoLECHDNKAMUNK,  will  begin  their  regular  trips  on  the  Andros- 
coggin Lakes  as  soon  as  the  ice  goes  out,  connecting  at  South  Arm 
with  the  teams  from  and  to  Andovcr ;  at  Middle  Dam  with  team  from 
and  to  steamers  Diamond  or  Parmachenee,  running  to  all  points 
on  Umbagog  Lake,  and  the  Androscoggin  and  Magalloway  Rivers ; 
at  Upper  Dam  with  steamer  Oquossoc  from  and  to  Bemis  Stream, 
Richardson's  Camp,  Haines'  Landing,  Indian  Rock,  and  all  points 
on  Oquossoc  Lake. 

Time  Table.  —Leave  South  Arm  at  7.00  A.M.  and  1.00  P.M., 
for  Middle  Dam,  Metalic  Point,  Mosquito  Brook,  and  Upper  Dam. 
Returning  leave  Upper  Dam  at  10.00  A.M.  and  3.00  P.M.,  for 
Mosquito  Brook,  Metalic  Point,  Middle  Dam,  and  South  Arm. 

Rates  of  Fake. 


South  Arm  to  Middle  Dam        .... 

$0  50 

"     "  Metalic  Point      .... 

76 

"         "     "  Mo-squito  Brook  .... 

1  00 

"         "     "  Upper  Djim  Landing  . 

1  00 

"        "     "  Head  of  Lake  Molechunkamunk 

1  50 

Middle  Dam  to  Foot  of  Narrows 

25 

"        "     "Metalic  Point    .... 

50 

"         "     "  Mosquito  Brook 

75 

"         '*     •*  Upper  Dam  Landing  . 

75 

"         "     "  Head  of  Lake  Molechunkamunk 

1  00 

^^^  Steamers  run  on  Sunday  only  during  tlie  months  of  June 
:«nd  September,  and  after  Oct.  1st  make  only  one  trip  a  day  till 
close  of  navigation. 


CHAS.   A. 


JAS.    A.   L.    WHITTIER,  President, 

R.  R.  L.  T.  Co. 
J.   FARKAH,  General  Manager. 


SPECIAL   NOTICES.  321 

THOS.    COOK  &   SON, 

Tourist    and   Excursion    Agents,     261   Broadway, 

New  York,  and 

Ludgate  Circus,  England. 

New  England  office,  197  Washington  st.,  Boston. 


Tourist  and  Excursion  Tickets 
to  all  places  of 
Pleasure  resort  in  the 
United  States  and  Canada,  by  all  the 

Chief   Railway   and    Steamboat    Lines. 


Special    facilities    for   Tours  to   all    parts  of  New 
England,  including 
The  White  Mountains,  Mt.  Desert, 

Moosehead  Lake,  The  Rangeley  Lakes, 
and  to  the 
Maritime  Provinces. 
Progi'ammes  free  on  application. 

Address,  THOS.  COOK  &  SON, 

261  Broadway,  New  York. 

BRANCHES. 

Boston,  197  Washington  st. 
Philadelphia,  337  Walnut  st. 
St.  Louis,  cor.  of  Sixth  and  Pine  st. 
Cleveland,  212  Bank  street. 


322  SPECIAL  NOTICES. 

THE   OLD  PINE-TREE   STATE. 

with  "Dirigo"  for  its  motto,  still  "leads"  all  others  as  a  place 
for  summer  resort. 

Its  long  stretch  of  sea-coast,  its  mountains,  its  unbroken 
forests,  its  innumerable  lakes  and  rivers,  offer  attractions  un- 
surpassed. 

THE  MAINE   CENTRAL    RAILROAD, 

operating  a  system  of  over  500  miles,  extends  from  Portland  to 
and  beyond  Bangor  to  the  boundary  line  between  the  State  of 
Maine  and  the  Province  of  New  Brunswick,  and  unites  the  rail- 
roads of  the  United  States  and  Maritime  Provinces.  It  has  just 
completed  a  branch  from  Bangor  to  Bar  Harbor,  so  that  it  forms, 
with  its  own  lines,  branches  and  connections,  the  only  rail  route 
to  and  from  Mt.  Desert,  and  all  parts  of  Maine  east  of  Portland, 
and  the  provinces  of  New  Brunswick  and  Nova  Scotia,  Cape 
Breton,  and  Prince  Edward  Island,  and  is  also  the  best  route  to 
Moosehead  and  the  Rangeley  Lakes  and  all  of  tlie  noted  hunting 
and  fishing  resorts  of  northern  Maine  and  New  Brunswick. 

It  is  the  only  route  whereby  Moosehead  Lake  can  be  surely 
reached  the  day  following  departure  from  Boston,  and  for  the 
Rangeley  Lakes  is  the  only  route  connecting  with  the  celebrated 
two-foot  gauge  Sandy  River  Railroad,  running  from  Farmington 
to  Phillips,  only  18  miles  from  the  lakes,  and  by  which  15  miles 
of  staging  and  12  of  steamer  are  saved  to  passengers  for  Indian 
Rock  and  Mooselucmaguntic  House  and  Lake, over  any  other  route. 

Excursion  tickets  are  on  sale  to  Eustis  (Smith's  Farm),  where 
a  comparatively  unexplored  country  for  hunting  and  fishing  is  to 
be  found. 

Besides  being  the  best  route  to  the  resorts  mentioned,  this  line 
runs  through  or  near  numbers  of  picturesque  cities  and  towns 
along  the  sea-coast  and  in  the  interior,  which,  with  their  attrac- 
tive scenery  and  invigorating  atmosphere,  are  rapidly  and  widely 
becoming  known  and  appreciated,  and  drawing  increased  num- 
bers of  visitors  each  year. 

Fares  for  round  trip  from  Boston :  Bar  Harbor,  $14.00 ;  Bar 
Harbor,  eontinuous  passage  in  both  directions,  §11.50;  Rangeley 
Lakes,  $12.50;  Indian  Rock,  $13.75;  Eustis,  S13.50;  Forks  of 
Kennebec,  §13.00;  Moosehead  Lake,  $15.00;  Aroostook,  $18.00. 
From  Portland,  $3.00  less. 

Send  for  Time-Tables  and  Rates  of  Fare  covering  all  Excur- 
sion points. 

PAYSON  TUCKER, 

General  Manager. 

F.  E.  BOOTHBY, 

General  Pass,  and  Ticket  Agent, 

Portland,  Me. 


SPECIAL    NOTICES.  323 


STEAMER  "OQUOSSOC,"  and  the  new  STEAMER  "  ME- 
TALLUC,"  will  ply  the  present  season  on  the  MOOSELUC- 
MAGUNTIC  and  CUPSUPTIC  LAKES,  running  between 
BEMIS  CAMPS,  UPPER  DAM,  HAINES'  LANDING,  IN- 
DIAN ROCK,  and  CUPSUPTIC  PALLS,  connecting  every 
morning  and  afternoon  with  Steamers  on  the  RANGELEY  and 
RICHARSON  LAKES.  The  BEMIS  CAMPS  can  be  reached 
the  second  day  from  Boston,  by  either  the  Andover  or  Phillips 
routes.  Since  last  season  a  new  cottage  containing  six  rooms 
has  been  added ;  also,  a  fine  new  camp,  and  good  boats,  at  the 
FOUR  PONDS  (a  three-mile  walk  from  Bemis  Camp).  This 
enables  the  guests  from  Bemis  to  spend  the  night  at  the 
Ponds,  and  secure  the  evening  and  early  morning  fishing. 
CAPT.  F.  C.  BARKER, 

Proprietor  of  Camps  and  SxBAMERh. 


CAMP  CARIBOU,      - 
Treat's  Island,  Paumachenee  Lake,  Maine. 
John  S.  Danforth,  Proprietor. 
Terms:  $2.00  per  day. 
Good  accommodations  for  Tourists  and   Sportsmen. 
'  Camp-kits,    Boats,   Provisions,    Tents,    and   Guides 
furnished    to  parties    wisliing  to  camp  out,  at  reason- 
able prices. 

Good   Fishing   and  Hunting   within  a  short  distance 
of  the  house. 


SPECIAL  NOTICES. 


When  you  visit  the  Rangeley  Lakes  be  sure  and 
purchase  tickets  via  Bryant's  Pond  and  Andover, 
the  great  Air-Line  Route,  thereby  ensuring  speed, 
comfort,  and  safety. 

This  is  the  shortest,  quickest,  cheapest,  and  most 
pleasant  way  of  reaching  the  South  Arm,  Middle 
Dam,  Upper  Dam,  Indian  Rock,  Bema  Stream, 
Soule's  Camp,  Kennebago,  Parmachenee,  afid  all 
points  near  or  distant  in  the  Rangeley  Lakes  Region. 

Four  different  routes  between  Boston  and 
Portland. 

Grand  Trunk  Railway,  between  Portland  and 
Bryant's  Pond.  Tuttle  &  Perkins'  daily  stages 
between  Bryant's  Pond  and  the  Lakes,  and  steamers 
to  all  points  beyond.  Tuttle  &  Perkins  give 
their  especial  care  to  all  express  matter  going  over 
this  route. 

Ask  for  tickets  via  Bryant's  Pond  and  Andover, 
and  take  no  others. 


French's  Hotel, 

ANDOVER,  MAINE. 

JOHN  A.  FRENCH,  Proprietor. 

^efi^,!^,  $3.00  pef  dky,  ¥fkn^iei\t. 

Special    Rates    by    th.e    AVeek    or    Mionth. 


This  fine  hotel  was  erected  during  the  summer  of  if  ;S,  and  is  the  largest 
hotel  in  Andover,  having  good  accommodation  for  icr  guests.  The  interior 
finish  is  superior  to  that  of  any  hotel  in  the  county,  and  the  furnitu-e  is  all 
new.  The  sleeping  rooms  are  large  and  airy,  and  contain  excellent  beds. 
Special  attention  is  given  to  the  table ;  the  dining  room  is  pleasantly  located 
in  the  front  of  the  house,  and  is  large  enough  for  dancing  and  other  amuse- 
ments. The  parlor  is  a  handsome  apartment,  and  contains  a  fine  piano  for 
the  use  of  guests.  This  house  stands  on  the  main  street,  in  the  centre  of  the 
village,  near  stores,  churches,  post  and  telegraph  ofSces.  It  commands 
beautiful  views  of  mountain  and  vale,  and  from  the  cupola  one  can  overlook 
the  entire  Ellis  River  Valley. 

Among  the  places  of  interest  within  easy  walking  or  riding  distance  of  the 
hotel  are  the  "Cataracts,"  " Dunn's  Notch,"  "Bald Pate,"  "  Devil's  Den," 
"Hermit  Falls,"  " Roxbury  Pond,"  "Rumford  FaBs,"  "Zircon  Springs," 
etc.,  etc. 

The  numerous  trout  streams  in  the  vicinity  offer  splendid  opportunities  for 
brook  trout  fishing,  and  those  who  wish  to  visit  the  Rangeley  Lakes,  only  la 
miles  from  Andover,  for  the  larger  brook  trou;,  can  go  at  any  time,  as  a  daily 
team  runs  from  the  hotel  to  the  south  arm  of  Richardson  Lake,  connecting 
with  Steamer  Welokennebacook  for  the  Middle  and  Upper  Dams,  Bemis 
Stream,  Indian  Rock,  and  other  points  on  the  Lakes. 

For  beautiful  drives  and  fine  scenerj-,  Andover  is  unexcelled  by  any  village 
in  New  England. 

There  are  several  large  pine  g^ves  in  the  village,  and  these,  combined  with 
the  mountain  air,  make  the  place  unusually  healthy.  Persons  troubled  with 
hay  fever,  catarrh,  or  consumption  in  its  earlier  stages,  find  immediate  and 
permanent  relief,  from  a  visit  to  this  place. 

For  any  additional  particulars  in  regard  to  prices,  rooms,  Sec,  address  the 
proprietor  as  above. 


SPECIAL   NOTICES. 


RICHARDSON  (RANGELEY)  LAKES  TRANSPORTATION 
COMPANY. 

Summer  season,  1884,  steamboat  service  on  Lake  Umbagog 
and  the  Androscoggin  and  Magalloway  Rivers. 

The  new  and  fast  steamer  Parmachenee  will  commence 
running  regular  trips  on  Lake  Umbagog,  and  the  Andros- 
coggin and  Magalloway  rivers,  as  soon  as  tlie  lake  opens, 
connecting  with  stages  at  Lakeside,  Cambridge,  to  and  from 
Bethel;  with  team  at  Sunday  Cove,  to  and  from  Middle 
Dam,  connecting  there  with  steamers  Welokennbbacook  or 
MoLBCHDNKAMONK,  for  South  Arm,  and  points  above;  with 
stages  at  Magalloway  River  Landing,  to  and  from  Aziscohos 
Falls ;  and  with  stages  at  Errol  Dam  to  and  from  Milan.  Ber- 
lin Falls,  Gorham,  Dixville  Notch,  and  Colebrook. 

Time  Table. — Daily,  excepting  Sunday,  leave  Lakeside, 
Cambridge,  foot  of  Lake  Umbagog,  at  7.30  A.M. ;  Sunday  Cove, 
at  9.00  A.M.,  arriving  at  Errol  Dam  at  10.30  A.M.  Leave  Errol 
Dam  at  11.00  A.M.,  arriving  at  Berlin  Mills  House,  Magalloway, 
at  1.00  P.M.  Leave  Berlin  Mills  House  at  1.30  P.M.,  arriving 
at  Errol  Dam  at  3.00  P.M.  Leave  Errol  Dam  at  3.00  P.M., 
Sunday  Cove,  4.30  P.M.,  arriving  at  Lakeside,  Cambridge,  foot 
of  Umbagog  Lake,  at  6.00  P.M. 

Rates  of  Fare. 
Lakeside,  Cambridge,  to  Sunday  Cove     .        .        .        .       $1  00 


Lakeside,  Cambridge,  to  Errol  Dam 

Lakeside,  Cambridge,  to  Magalloway  River  Landing 

Sunday  Cove  to  Errol  Dam      .        . 

Sunday  Cove  to  Magalloway  River  Landing    . 

Errol  Dam  to  Magalloway  River  Landing 


1  50 

2  00 
1  00 
1  60 
1  00 


JAS.  A.  L.  WHITTIER,  President, 

R.  R.  L.  T.  Co. 
CHAS.  A.  J.    FARRAR, 

General  Manager. 


SPECIAL    NOTICES.  327 

PERCY   HOUSE, 

No.  Stratford,  N.H.     T.  W.  Tibbetts,  Proprietor. 

Terms:  $2.00  per  day,  transient; 

$7.00  to  $10.00  per  week. 

This  hotel  is  pleasantly  located  a  few  steps  from 
the  Railroad  depot,  and  has  good  accommodations  foi- 
forty  guests.  The  rooms  are  all  nicely  furnished,  and 
several  improvements  have  been  lately  made  in  the 
house,  adding  to  its  comfort  and  attractions.  The 
table  is  well  supplied  with  the  best  the  market  af- 
fords. No  pains  will  be  spared  in  making  visitors 
feel  at  home.  • 

There  are  a  large  number  of  attractive  resorts  and 
many  pleasant  drives  in  the  vicinity. 

A  first-class  livery  stable  is  connected  with  the 
house,  and  guests  may  obtain  anj'  kind  of  a  team  at 
reasonable  prices. 

Parties  arriving  by  the  morning  train  from  Mon- 
treal, or  the  noon  and  evening  trains  from  Boston 
and  the  West,  will  be  met  at  the  depot,  and  taken  by 
private  conveyance  to  any  of  the  surrounding  towns 
at  regular  stage-fare. 

Post  and  telegraph  offices  near  the  hotel.  For 
further   particulars   address   the    proprietor,  as   above. 


828  SPECIAL   NOTICES. 


THE  GRAND  TRUNK  RAILWAY 

offers  the  following  special  inducements  to  sportsmen  and 
tourists  who  contemplate  a  visit  to  the  Androscoggin  Lakes  region 
the  present  season. 

Boston  to  Andover,  Me. ,  and  return    ....        $1000 

"      "  Lakeside,  Cambridge,  N.H.,  and  return       .  12  00 

*'      "  South  Ann,  Androscoggin  Lakes,  and  return,  12  00 

"      "  Middle  Dam  and  return,  via  Bryant's  Pond 

and  Andover      ......  12  00 

"      "  Middle  Dam  and  return,  via  Bethel    and 

Cambridge,  Lake  Umbagog      .        .        .  14  50 

"      "  Upper  Dam  and  return,  via  Bryant's  Pond 

and  Andover 13  00 

"      "  Upper    Dam  and  return,   via  Bethel    and 

Cambridge,  Lake  Umbagog      .        .        .  16  00 

"      "  Upper  Dam,  via  Bethel    and  Cambridge, 
Lake  Umbagog.     Return  via  A  ndover  and 

Bryant's  Pond 14  50 

"      "  Indian  Rock  and  return,  via  Andover  .        .  14  00 

"      "  Bemis  Stream  and  return,  via  Andover        .  14  00 

"      "  Indian    Rock,  via   Andover.      Return    via 

Phillips  and  Farmington         .        .        .  15  25 

"      "  Dixville  Notch  and  return,  via  Bethel  and 

Cambridge,  Lake  Umbagog      .        .        .  14  60 

"      "  Colebrook  and  return,  tJia  Bethel  and  Cam- 
bridge, Lake  Umbagog     ....  17  60 

g^^  Parties  purchasing  tickets  via  Grand  Trunk  Railway  haVe 
choice  of  Boston  &  Maine  or  Eastern  Railroads,  or  Portland 
steamers  between  Boston  and  Portland.  The  Grand  Trunk  issue 
of  tickets  is  the  only  one  offering  travelers  this  advantage. 

The  above  tickets  are  sold  $1  less  where  parties  travel  on  the 
boat  each  way  between  Boston  and  Portland. 

The  above  tickets  are  good  until  Oct.  1st,  or  as  long  as  steamers 
run,  and  allow  persons  to  stop  over  at  any  point  on  the  journey. 

W.   C.   TALLMAN, 
New  England  Agt.  Grand  Trunk  Railway. 

JAS.  STEPHENSON, 

Oen.  Passenger  Agt.  Ckrand  Trunk  Railway. 


SPECIAL   NOTICES. 


THROUGH   BY   DAYLIGHT! 

The  nearest,  cheapest,  and  most  direct  route  to  Richardson 
(Rangeley)  Lakes,  Middle  Dam,  Upper  Dam,  and  Indian  Rock, 
is  via  Andover,  Maine. 

Miles  of  travel  and  several  dollars  saved  by  purchasing  tickets 
at  Grand  Trunk  Railway  Office,  280  Washington  Street,  Boston. 

Table  of  Distances. 


ANDOVER   ROUTE. 

Portland  to  Bryant's  Pond    . 
Bryant's  Pond  to  Andover    . 
Andover  to  Lakes 
South  Arm  to  Upper  Dam    . 
Upper  Dam  to  Indian  Rock  . 


Total 


FARMINGTON   ROUTE. 

Portland  to  Farmington        .         .         .  , 
Farmington  to  head  of  Rangeley  Lake 

Head  of  Lake  to  Outlet         .         .         .  , 

Carry  to  Indian  Rock  .         .         .         .  . 


Total 138  miles 


62  miles. 
21       " 
12      " 

11       " 
10      " 

117  miles. 


90  miles. 
36      " 
10      " 

2      " 


By  reading  the  above  table,  it  will  be  seen  that  the  Farmington 
route  to  Indian  Rock  is  twenty  miles  more  than  the  Andover 
route,  and  to  the  Upper  Dam,  thirty-one  miles  more  than  the 
Andover  route. 

Passengers  who  go  to  Indian  Rock  via  Farmington,  Phillips, 
and  Rangeley,  are  landed  in  the  woods,  two  miles  from  the  hotel, 
at  Indian  Rock,  and  have  to  walk  that  distance,  and  have  their 
baggage  hauled  across  the  Carry. 

Those  who  visit  Indian  Rock  via  Bryant's  Pond,  Andover,  and 
the  Richardson  Lakes,  are  landed  within  a  few  yards  of  the  hotel, 
directly  in  front  of  it,  and  their  baggage  is  carried  to  the  hotel  free 
of  expense. 

Always  purchase  tickets  for  all  points  in  the  Richardson 
(Rangeley)  Lakes  Region  by  way  of  Grand  Trunk  Railway. 


SPECIAL  NOTICES. 


FOREST  AND  STREAM. 
A  weekly  journal  of  twenty-four  pnges,  devoted  to 
field  sports,  practical  natural  history,  fish  culture,  pro- 
tection of  game,  preservation  of  forests,  yachting  and 
boating,  rifle  practice,  and  all  out-door  recreation  and 
study. 

It  is  the  only  journal  in  this  country  that  fully  supplies 
the  wants  and  meets  the  necessities  of  the  gentleman 
sportsman. 
Terms,  $4.00  a  year. 
\^  Send  for  a  specimen  copy. 

Forest  and  Stream  Publishing  Co., 
39  &  40  Park  Row,  New  York. 

The  Surveyor-General  of  Washington  Territory,  who 
sends  a  club  of  five  subscribers,  writes,  saying:  "  I  con- 
sider that  3'our  journal  has  done  more  to  properly  educate 
the  sportsmen  of  this  country  than  all  the  other  publica- 
tions put  together.  I  shall  induce  every  true  sportsman 
to  become  a  subscriber  that  I  can." 

Mr.  Thomas  A.  Logan  (  "  Gloan")  says:  "  You  arc 
doing  good  work  with  the  paper,  and  3'ou  have  —  more 
and  probably  greater  than  you  dream  of —  the  wishes 
and  God-speed  of  the  gentlemen  of  the  gun" 

Hundreds  of  similar  indorsements  from  prominent 
gentlemen  sportsmen  might  be  added,  showing  the  esti- 
mation in  which  "Forest  and  Stream"  is  held  by  its 
readers. 


SPECIAL  NOTICES. 


ANGLER'S  RETREAT. 


Middle  Dam,  Lower  Richardson  Lake. 

No  better  trout-fishing  will  be  found  in  the  entire 
Rangeley  Lakes  Region  than  at  the  Middle  Dam. 

All  the  best  places  for  fishing  are  near  the  hotel. 
Boats  to  let  at  fifty  cents  per  day. 

The  new  hotel  is  pleasantly  situated,  overlooking 
the  lake.  All  the  sleeping-rooms  are  nicely  fin- 
ished, lathed  and  plastered. 

Richardson,  Rangeley  Lakes  Transpoeta- 
TioN    Co.,     Proprietors. 

Excursion  tickets  from  Boston  to  Middle  Dam 
and  return,  via  Andover,  rail  and  stage,  only 
$12.00. 


332  SPECIAL   NOTICES. 


THE    TRAVELERS'    OFFICIAL    RAILWAY    GUIDE 


RAILWAY  AND  STEAM    NAVIGATION    LINES  OF   THE    UNITED 
STATES  AND  THE    DOMINION  OP  CANADA. 


The  mo»t  complete  Railway  Guide  in  the  world. 

The  time-tables  are  carefully  corrected  for  each  issue  from  information 
furnished  by  the  officials  of  each  road. 

The  afternoon  trains  are  distinguished  from  morning  trains  by  being 
printed  in  dark  type. 

All  telegraph  and  coupon  stations  shown. 

Full  lists  of  railway  officials  in  all  principal  departments.  Notices  of 
changes  and  appointments  published  monthly. 

Also  a  large  Sectional  Railroad  Map  of  the  United  States,  with  map  of  New 
England  and  the  Middle  States  upon  an  enlarged  scale  and  cut  into  pages 
for  facility  of  reference. 

Also  a  list  of  names  by  which  various  roads  were  formerly  known,  with 
their  present  titles. 

Explanations  of  the  manner  of  using  the  Guide  printed  in  the  French, 
Spanish,  and  German  languages. 

Published  under  the  auspices  of  the  General  Ticket  and  Passenger  Agents' 
Associations.    Price,  t|4.00  per  annum,  50  cents  per  copy. 

Also, 

THE    KNICKERBOCKER    READY    REFERENCE  GUIDE 

To  Onk  Thousand  Points  around  New  York  City,  arranged  alphabetically, 
showing  Railroads,  Time  of  Trains,  Fares,  Steamboats,  Population,  Post 
Offices,  Times  of  closing  of  Mails,  Stages,  Express  and  Telegraph  Companies, 
etc.,  etc.  With  large  map  of  vicinity  of  New  York  for  fifty  miles  in  all  direc- 
tions, and  latest  Official  Time-Tables  of  all  Railroads  within  that  territory. 
New  York  and  Brooklyn  Hotels,  Theatres,  and  Street-car  Lines. 
Price,  $2.50  per  annum ;  25  cents  per  copy. 

National  Railway  Publication  Company, 

46  Bond  Street,  New  York ;  229  and  231  S.  Fifth  Street,  Philadelphia,  Penn. ; 

148  Monroe  Street,  £!hlcago.  111. 


SPECIAL  NOTICES. 


THE  RAND-McNALLY    GUIDE    AND    TRAVEL- 
ER'S  HANDBOOK. 

A  Pocket  Railway  Guide  (size,  5X7  inches). 

States  population  of  tiie  several  cities  and  towns, 
shows  distances,  ticket  fares,  etc.  Illustrated  with 
nu nacrous  sectional  maps,  and  contains  a  fine  General 
Railway  Map,  handsomel}'  colored. 

A  description  of  the  prominent  features  of  scenery, 
etc.,  on  the  principal  routes,  especially  compiled  for  this 
work,  has  recently  been  added  to  its  pages,  and  will  be 
found  both  valuable  and  interesting  to  travelers  and 
tourists. 

The  Handbook  describes  the  principal  business  inter- 
ests of  the  larger  towns  and  cities,  the  location  of  the 
railroad  depots,  and  the  names  of  the  principal  hotels 
and  public  halls. 

Issued  monthly.     Price,  40  cents  per  copy. 

National  Railway  Poblication  Company, 

148  Monroe  Street,  Chicago,  111. ;  46  Bond  Street,  New 
York  ;  229  &  231  S.  Fifth  Street,  Philadelphia,  Penn, 


334  SPECIAL    NOTICES. 


SPECIAL   NOTICE 

TO 

FISHING    PARTIES    AND    EXCURSIONISTS 

VISITING 

ANDOVER   AND   THE   LAKES. 

The  undersigned  is  prepared  to  furnish  fishing 
parties  with  camp-supplies  at  the  shortest  possible 
notice. 

My  stock  of  groceries  and  provisions  is  the  larg- 
est in  town,  and  I  can  oflTer  extra  inducements  to 
camping-parties. 

Please  give  me  a  call. 

JOHN  H.  WARD  WELL, 

Andover,  Maine. 

f^  Post-office  and  Telegraph-office  located  in 
our  building. 


BOSTOIsT    TO    2SrEI"W    YOI^IC, 

A.T    6.30    r.    ]M[^ 


BOSTON  TO  NEW  YORK, 

VIA 

Trains  leave  Uoston  at     lO      a.  m.,  l.OO  &.  10.30 
p.  m.     iSmidays  at  10.3(>  p.  ni. 

Cars  from  the  new  and  magnificent  PROVIDENCE  RAILROAD 
STATION,  Columbus  Avenue,  foot  of  Boston  Common. 

A.  A.  FOLSOM,  Supl. 


SPECIAL  NOTICES. 


Round-trip  tickets  from  Portland  and  Lewiston 
to  the  Richardson  (Rangeley)  Lakes,  via  Bryant's 
Pond  and  Andover,  are  sold  by  the 

GRAND  TRUNK  RAILWAY  COMPANY 

at  the  following  prices  from  Portland  :  — 
To  Andover  and  return       .         .         .         .     $8.00 
To  Middle  Dam  and  return         .         .         .       9.00 
To  Upper  Dam  and  return  .         .         .     10.00 

To  Indian  Rock  and  return         .         .         .     11.00 
To  Indian  Rock  via  Andover,  return    via 

Farminn^ton        .         .         .         .         .12.25 
To  Berlin  Mills  House,  Magalloway  River, 

and  return  .....     13.00 

To  Upper   Dam   and   Dixville  Notch,  and 

return        ......     16.50 

To  Upper    Dam  via  Andover,  return  via 

Bethel 11.50 

To    Upper  Dam  via  Andover,  return  via 

Dixville  Notch  .         .         .         .         .     13.00 

Ticket-offices  in  Portland  on  Exchange  Street, 
and  at  depot,  foot  of  India  Street. 

From  Lewiston  the  above  tickets  are  sold  at 
one  dollar  less  than  from  Portland. 

Ticket-office  in  Lewiston  at  Grand  Trunk  Rail- 
way depot. 


SPECIAL   NOTICES.  337 

LAKEVIEW  COTTAGE, 

at  theSoutb  Armof  Lake  Welokennebacook,  is  a  new 
hotel,  erected  by  the  Richardson-Kangeley  Lakes 
Transportation  Company,  for  the  accommodation  of 
its  stockholders  and  the  public. 

The  house  is  pleasantly  located  on  the  side  of  a 
hill,  overlooking  the  lake  for  a  long  distance.  It 
is  near  good  brook  and  lake  fishing,  boating,  and 
bathing. 

It  receives  a  daily  mail,  and  is  connected  with  the 
rest  of  the  world  by  telegraph,  the  office  being  in 
the  hotel. 

The  house  is  nicely  furnished,  a  good  table  is  set, 
and  pains  arc  taken  to  make  the  stay  of  guests 
pleasant  and  agreeable. 

Steamers  make  two  trips  daily  between  the  hotel 
and  the  Middle  and  Upper  Dam,  and  row  boats  are 
kept  to  let  by  the  manager  of  the  house. 

The  house  has  broad  piazzas  entirely  surrounding 
it,  making  a  delightful  place  to  sit  or  promenade. 

Terms         .         .         .         $2.00  per  day. 

Addiess,  R.  R.  L.  T.  Co., 

Ajsdo^  ek,  Me. 
Oxford  Co.,  "South  Arm." 


338  SPECIAL  NOTICES. 

THE    LAKESIDE, 
Lakeside,  Cambbidge,  N.H.,  Foot  of  Umbagou  Lake. 

This  new  and  pleasant  hotel  is  charmingly  located  on  a  liigh 
plateau,  overlooking  a  large  part  of  Umbagog  Lake,  on  the  main 
road  between  Bethel  and  Dixville  Notch  and  Colebrook.  But 
a  few  rod«  from  a  beautiful  point  extending  into  Lake  Umbagog, 
it  offers  unsurpassed  facilities  for  boating  and  bathing. 

The  house  is  nicely  furnished,  and  has  a  cosey  home  look  about 
it  unknown  to  most  hotels.  All  the  rooms  are  pleasant,  and 
command  fine  view  of  either  lake  or  mountain.  It  has  unusually 
broad  piazzas,  furnishing  a  delightful  lounging-place.  Croquet 
and  lawn  tennis  sets  are  kept  at  the  house  for  the  use  of  its 
guests. 

A  large  open  fireplace  and  first-class  piano  are  two  very  dif- 
ferent, but  pleasant,  features  of  the  ladies'  parlor. 

Especial  attention  is  paid  to  the  table,  which  is  supplied  with 
the  best  the  local  market  affords. 

Hay-fever  and  all  catarrhal  complaints  yield  readily  to  the 
purity  of  the  air  in  this  locality,  and  persons  wishing  a  pleasant, 
quiet,  healthy  retreat  in  which  to  spend  the  summer  months  will 
find  Lakeside  "  all  their  fancy  painted." 

There  is  good  fishing  and  shooting  in  the  immediate  vicinity, 
and  all  kinds  of  berries  are  plenty. 

Steamers  leave  Lakeside,  daily,  each  morning,  excepting  Sun- 
day, for  Magalloway,  returning  in  the  afternoon,  giving  guests  a 
chance  to  take  the  most  beautiful  steamboat  ride  in  New  England, 
some  72  miles,  any  fair  day.  Eowboats  are  also  kept  to  let  by  the 
manager  of  the  house. 

This  hotel  has  been  built  and  furnished  by  the  Richardson- 
Rangeley  Lakes  Transportation  Company,  who  have  done  all  in 
their  power  to  make  it  a  pleasant  resort  for  the  traveling  public. 
It  will  be  kept  open  throughout  the  year. 

Terms,  $2.00  per  day. 

Address,  R.  R.  L.  T.  Co., 

Lakeside  P.O.,  Lakeside, 
Cahbbidge,  N.H. 


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SPECIAL   NOTICES. 


AN  DOVER  AND  THE  RICHARDSON  LAKES. 


Messrs.  A.  W.  &  F.  P.  Thomas  are  the  Proprie- 
tors of  the  only  daily  stage  line  between  Andover 
and  the  Richardson  Lakes. 


Comfortable  covered  teams  leave  the  Andover 
House  each  morning  at  8.30  A.M.,  for  the  South 
Arm  of  Richardson  Lake,  connecting  with  one  of 
the  Richardson  (Rangeley)  Lakes  Transportation 
Company's  steamers,  for  all  Points  in  the  Lake 
Region.  Returning,  leave  the  South  Arm  at  1.00 
P.M.    for  Andover. 


During  June    and   September   the     teams     run 
Sunday. 


SPECIAL  NOTICES. 


NEW  MIDDLE   DAM   CAMP. 
Richabdsow-Rangbley Lakes  Transportation  Co.,  Proprietors. 

Terms  :  $2.00  per  day. 

The  New  Middle  Dam  Camp  occupies  a  lovely  site,  a 
short  distance  north  of  the  old  camp.  The  hotel  faces  the  lake, 
and  commands  an  unrivalled  view  of  lake,  forest,  and  mountain 
scenery.  It  is  but  a  few  rods  from  the  lake  shore,  and  near  the 
steamboat-landing.  The  house  contains  twenty  sleeping-rooms, 
ladies'  sitting-room,  dining-room,  office,  kitchen,  etc.,  etc.  The 
steamer  Welokennebacook  touches  here  every  trip,  and  makes 
two  trips  daily  to  Upper  Dam  and  the  Arm  of  the  Lake.  The 
carry  road  between  the  Middle  Dam  and  Lake  Umbagog  has  been 
considerably  improved  the  past  winter,  and  a  team  is  now  run- 
ning over  it,  conveying  passengers  each  way.  Fare  between 
Lake  Umbagog  and  Middle  Dam,  $1.00. 

Parties  who  think  of  visiting  the  Lake  Region  this  summer,  and 
wish  for  pleasant  rooms  and  comfortable  quarters,  will  do  well  to 
give  the  New  Middle  Dam  Camp  a  trial.  This  is  one  of  the  most 
healthy  places  in  the  world,  being  located  1,600  feet  above  the 
sea,  surrounded  by  pure  mountain  air,  and  in  the  midst  of  fir  and 
pine  forests,  whose  balsamic  odors  carry  life  and  health  to  all 
around  them.  Some  of  the  most  renowned  fishing-places  in  the 
entire  lake  country  are  within  half  a  mile  of  this  house.  There 
are  also  many  charming  walks,  and.  fine  facilities  for  boating  and 
bathing  in  the  immediate  vicinity  of  the  hotel.  The  Middle  Dam 
Camp  is  only  sixteen  miles  from  Andover,  and  is  in  daily  connec- 
tion with  the  village.  Guides,  boats,  and  camping  outfits  may  be 
engaged  from  the  hotel.  For  further  information  in  regard  to 
board  or  rooms,  address  either  of  the  hotel  proprietors,  at  the 
Middle  Dam,  via  Andover,  Oxford  Co.,  Maine.  Come  and  see 
us. 


SPECIAL   NOTICES. 


Second  Edition. 
CAMP  LIFE  IN  THE  WILDERNESS. 

A  story  of  sporting  and  adventures  at  the  Rangelcy  Lakes,  by 
Charles  A.  J.  Farrar.  224  pages,  paper  cover,  12  illustrations. 
Price,  30  cents. 

This  is  a  delightful  story  of  life  in  the  woods,  and  has  all  the 
breezy  freshness  of  an  out-door  narrative.  The  author  is  per- 
fectly familiar  witli  all  the  places  and  incidents  mentioned  in  the 
book,  and  a  twelve  years'  experience  in  the  I>ake  Country  gives  an 
additional  interest  to  Mr.  Farrar's  writings.  A  few  notices  of  the 
Press  are  appended  below  :  — 

"  Mr.  Farrar  has  been  a  frequent  contributor  to  the  Forest 
and  Stream,  and  our  readers  are  already  familiar  with  his  pleas- 
ant stylo  of  narrating  woodland  adventures.  The  pages  will 
recall  to  those  visiting  the  liangeley  Lakes  many  pleasant  days 
spent  there,  and  those  Avho  contemplate  visiting  the  wilds  will 
find  in  Mr.  Farrar's  book  much  practical  and  useful  informa- 
tion."—  Forest  and  Stream,  Feb.  13,  1879. 

"  '  Camp  Life  in  the  "Wilderness  '  gives  a  lively  and  entertain- 
ing description  of  a  visit  of  eight  gentlemen,  of  whom  the  author 
was  one,  to  the  region  of  the  lakes,  and  it  preaches  just  the  kind 
of  sermon  which  every  tired,  overworked  man  should  read  as 
the  summer  months  advance."  —  Aitleboro'  (^Mass.)  Advocate,  May 
3,  1879. 

"  This  is  a  very  pleasing  recital  of  the  experiences  and  adven- 
tures of  a  trip  from  Boston  to  the  Richardson  Lakes.  It  will 
please  every  one  familiar  with  the  localities  described  to  find 
them  so  faithfully  reproduced,  while  all  those  who  contemplate 
a  visit  to  that  beautiful  resort  should  by  all  means  before  starting 
out  gain  possession  of  the  hints  on  camp  life  and  kindred  topics 
which  the  book  contains." — Portland  Eastern  Argus,  May  5, 1879. 

"The  book  takes  the  form  of  a  narrative,  describing  the  actual 
experiences  of  a  party  of  pleasure-seekers,  with  numerous  illus- 
trations —  sure  to  whet  the  appetite  for  the  text.  The  Richard- 
son Lakes  region  is  fast  becoming  popular  as  a  wilderness  resort 
—  and  has  all  the  advantages  of  tiie  Adirondacks,  with  the  added 
one  of  being  much  more  accessible."  —  Springfield  Daily  Union, 
May  7,  1879. 

"  'Camp  Life  in  the  Wilderness'  relates  the  experiences  of  a 
party  of  Boston  gentlemen  during  a  summer  vacation  in  the  Range- 
ley  Lake  Region.  The  author  tells  these  pleasantly  in  what  he 
terras  a  '  story.'  The  book  will  interest  more  those  familiar  with 
its  scenes,  of  which  it  gives  a  good  description."  —  Boston  Sat- 
urday Evening  Gazette,  May  3,  1879. 

Can  be  obtained  at  any  bookstore,  or  will  be  sent  by  mail,  post- 
paid, on  receipt  of  price,  by  Charles  A.  J.  Farrar,  Jamaica  Plain, 
Mass. 


SPECIAL    NOTICES.  343 


NEW  JUVENILE  SERIES. 


THE   "  LAKE  AND   FOREST   SERIES," 

By  Capt.  Charles  A.  J.  Farrar,  author  of  "  Camp 
Life  in  the  Wilderness,"  "  IMoosehead  Lake  and  the 
North  Maine  Wildnerness,  Illustrated,"  "The  Andro- 
scoggin Lakes,  Illustrated,"  etc.,  etc. 

The  first  volume  of  this  fascinating  series  of  Forest 
and  Lake  Adventures,  entitled  "  EASTWARD  HO ! 
or,  ADVENTURES  AT  RANGELEY  LAKES,"  is 
now  ready.  Published  by  Lee  &  Shepard,  Boston ; 
Chas.  T.  Dillingham,  New  York,  and  can  be  procured 
from  any  bookseller  in  the  United  States  or  Canada, 
or  will  be  sent  by  mail  post  paid,  by  addressing  the 
author  at  Jamaica  Plain,  Mass.     Price,  $1.50. 

The    second     volume,  entitled    "  WILD     WOODS 

LIFE ;  or,  A  TRIP  TO  PARMACHENEE,"  uniform 

in  size  and  style  with  "Eastward  Ho!"  is  now 
ready. 

This  series  of  books  is  designed  especially  for  boys 
and  young  men,  and  is  written  in  a  wide-awake,  racy 
style,  that  will  be  sure  to  captivate  all  readers. 


SPECIAL  NOTICES. 


For  Collations,  Excursionists,  Sportsmen,  Yachting,  etc.,  etc., 

HUGKINS'  SOUPS 

Tomato,  Mock  Turtle, 

Ox  Tail,  Julienne, 

Pea,  Beef, 

Chicken,  Macaroni, 

Vermicelli,  ConsommS 

Okra  or  Gumbo,  Soup  and  Bouilli, 
Green  Turtle,    Terrapin, 
Mullagatawney. 

Rich  and  Perfectly  Seasoned. 

Require  only  to  be  heated,  and  are  then  ready  to  serve. 
Put  up  in  quart  cans,  which  are  soldered  entirely  on  the  outside. 

HUGKINS' 

SANDWICH  Meats 

Sandwich  IIam,       Sandwich  Chicken, 
Sandwich  Tongue,  Sandwich  Turkey, 

— AND  — 

LUNCH  HAM,     LUNCH  TONGUE, 
SLICED  OX  TONGUE, 

Prcfared  ivit/i  Great  Care, 
From  only  the  best  material,  and  the  cans  are  soldered  entirely  on  the  outside. 

J.  H.  W.  HUCKINS  &  CO., 
Boston,  Mass.,  U.S.A. 


SPECIAL   NOTICES.  345 

THE   GRAND   TRUNK   RAILWAY. 

In  connection  with  the  Richelieu  &  Ontario  Navigation  Co.,  i.s 
the  great  pleasure  route ;  and  they  now  offer  a  choice  selection  of 
popular  excursion  routes,  via  Niagara  Falls,  Toronto,  River  St. 
Lawrence  (with  its  Thousand  Islands  and  rapids),  Montreal, 
Quebec,  River  Saguenay,  Lakes  Champlain  and  George,  Sara- 
toga, etc. 

The  Richelieu  and  Ontario  Navigation  Company's  steamers,  and 
the  "New  American  line"  of  steamers,  forming  two  first-class 
lines,  which,  for  speed,  safety,  and  comfort,  cannot  be  surpassed. 
They  are  the  only  lines  now  offering  tourists  an  opportunity  to 
view  the  magnificent  scenery  of  the  Tiiousand  Islands  and  Rapids 
of  the  St.  Lawrence,  also  the  far-famed  River  Saguenay.  This 
route  possesses  peculiar  advantages  over  any  other,  as  by  it 
parties  have  their  choice  of  either  side  of  Lake  Ontario  and 
River  St.  Lawrence  between  Niagara  Falls  and  Quebec,  and  the 
tickets  are  also  valid  by  rail  or  steamer  between  Niagara  Falls 
and  Quebec.  Tho  Grand  Trunk  Railway  {via  Gorham  and  the 
Glen  House)  is  the  only  route  by  which  parties  can  ascend  the 
far-famed  Mt.  Washington  by  carriage  road. 

Tickets  and  information  may  be  obtained  at  the  principal  ticket 
offices. 

Boston  office.  No.  280  Washington  street. 

W.  C.  TALLMAN, 

N.E.  Agent. 

J.  STEPHENSON, 
General  Pass.  Agent,  G.  T.  Railway, 

Montreal. 

ALEX.  MILLOY, 
Traffic  Manager,  Richelieu  <j-  Ontario,  Nav.  Co., 
228  St.  Paul  St.,  Montreal. 

N.  J.  GRACE, 

Trnrelling  Agent. 


346  SPECIAL   NOTICES. 

THE  MAGALLOWAY  RIVER  AND   PARMA- 
CHENEE  LAKE. 

The  old  and  Popular  Route  to  JRarmaehenee  is  via 
Portland,  Bethel,  Camibridgc,  Lake  Umbagog,  and 
the  Magaiioway  River. 

This  favorite  Route  introduces  parties  to  the  finest 
scenery,  and  the  best  hunting  and  fishing  in  New 
England. 

Daily  Line  of  Stages  between  Bethel  and  Lakeside, 
Cambridge,  and  Daily  Line  of  Steamers  between  Cam- 
bridge, Lake  Umbagog,  and  Berlin  Mills  House,  IVIagal- 
loway  River,  connecting  with  teams  for  the  Head  of 
Aziscohos  Falls. 

Tourists  and  Sportsmen  will  find  this  the  easiest  and 
most  direct  Route  to  Parmachenee  Lake.  Less  walking 
by  this  Route  than  by  any  other. 

ROUND-TRIP  TICKETS. 

From  Boston  to  Magalloway  and  return,  via 

Bethel,  Cambridge,  and  Lake  Umbagog  .     $14  50 

From   Boston  to  Magalloway  and  return,  via 

Byrant's  Pond  and  Andover         .         .  .       16  50 

For  sale  at  all  General  Ticket  Offices  in  New  England 
Cities,  and  in  New  York,  Philadelphia,  Baltimore,  and 
Washington. 


SPECIAL   NOTICES.  347 

THE   SANDY-RIVER  RAILROAD, 
in  connection  with 
The  Maine  Central  Railroad  and 

Rogers'  Stage  Line, 
Is  THE  Shortest, 

Quickest, 
Easiest, 

And  Most  Direct  Route 

to  the  Rangeley  and  Kennebago  Lakes.  To  ac- 
commodate the  increasing  travel  of  Summer  Tour- 
ists over  this  novel  Baby  JRailroad,  two  splendid 
Passenger  Coaches  and  a  new  Engine  have  been 
added  to  the  Rolling  Stock.  By  this  route  you  arc 
only  thirteen  hours  from  Boston,  only  seventeen  miles 

staging,  good   telegraphic  communication,  and  as 
good  hotel  accommodations  as  the  State  affords. 
J.   E.   THOMPSON,   G.   T.  A. 

N.  B.  BEAL, 

Supt. 


SPECIAL   NOTICES. 


TELEGRAPH    LINE    FROM    BRYANT'S    POND  TO    RICHARDSON    LAKES. 


Bryants  Pond,  Rumford, 
[[iCHARDSoy  &  Hangeley  |akes. 

• 

A  Daily  Line  of  First-Class   Stages 

Makes  daily  connections  with  trains  on  Grand  Trunk  Railroad, 
between  Bryant's  Pond  and  Andover.  This  is  an  old  established 
line,  and  has  been  in  charge  of  the  present  proprietors,  Messrs. 
Tuttle  and  Perkins,  for  many  years.  Fine  coaches,  good  horses, 
and  experienced  drivers,  are  to  be  found  on  this  line,  wluch  is 
one  of  tlie  most  pleasant  stage-routes  in  this  country.  The  staje 
leaves  the  Grand  Trank  Railroad  Depot  daily,  on  the  arrival  of 
train  from  Boston,  which  is  due  at  3.30  p.  m.,  for  Andover.  At 
Rumford  three-quarters  of  an  hour  is  given  for  supper.  The 
time  between  Bryant's  Pond  and  Andover  is  three  hours.  Fare 
from  Bryant's  Pond  to  Rumford,  75  cents.  From  Bryant's 
Pond  to  Andover,  $1.50. 

Returning,  tlie  stage  leaves  the  Andover  House  each  morn- 
ing, arriving  at  Bryant's  Pond  in  time  to  connect  with  through 
trains  for  Boston. 

Bryant's  Pond,  Rumford  Centre,  E.  Rumford, 
Mexico,  and  Dixfleld. 

Stage  leaves  Railroad  Depot  at  Bryant's  Pond,  every  MONDAY, 
WEDNESDAY,  and  FRIDAY,  on  arrival  of  train  from  Boston, 
for  the  above  places,  returning  every  TUESDAY,  THURSDAY, 
and  SATURDAY,  reaching  Bryant's  Pond  in  time  to  connect 
with  through  train  for  Boston.  Stage  connects  at  Mexico  with 
stages  for  ROXBURY  and  BYRON. 

Fare  from  Bryant's  Pond  to  Rumford  Centre $    75 

"  "  East  Rumford 1  00 

"  "  Mexico 1  25 

"  "  Dixfield 1  60 

A.  S.  TUTTLE,  Proprietor. 


SPECIAL  NOTICES.  349 

ALPINE    HOUSE,  GORHAM,    N.H. 

STRATTON  &  EDWARDS,  PROPRIETORS. 
Terms,  $2.00  to  $3.50  per  day,  according  to  rooms. 
This  is  one  of  the  best-appointed  houses  in  the  mountain  region, 
located  in  close  proximity  to  tlie  Grand  Trunk  Railway.  The 
mountain  views  from  the  house  are  very  fine,  and  the  drives  in 
the  neighborhood  are  unsurpassed.  A  first-class  livery  is  con- 
nected with  the  hotel,  and  teams  of  every  description  may  be 
obtained  at  reasonable  prices  ;  also  careful  drivers,  if  desired. 

The  proprietors  of  the  ALPINE  HOUSE  run  a  first-class  stage 
line  between 

GORHAM,  THE  GLEN  HOUSE,  AND  THE 
SUMMIT  OF  MOUNT  WASHINGTON, 

during  the  summer  season,  connecting  with  every  train  upon  the 
Grand  Trunk  Railway,  and  parties  bound  for  the  mountains 
should  make  a  note  of  this. 

Parties  from  MOUNT  WASHINGTON,  the  GLEN  HOUSE, 
or  GORHAM,  who  would  like  to  visit  the 

ANDROSCOGGIN    LAKES, 

the  celebrated  fishing  and  hunting  resort  of  New  England,  before 
returning  home,  can   procure   a  private   conveyance   from   the 

ALPINE   HOUSE   TO   ERROL   DAM, 

where  connection  is  made  with  steamer  to  all  parts  of  the  Lake 
Region.  The  entire  ride  of  thirty  miles  is  over  good,  level  roads, 
and  is  comfortably  made  in  five  hours,  introducing  one  to  an 
unrivalled  panorama  of  Mountain,  Forest,  and  River  Scenery, 
and  has  been  pronounced  by  old  travellers  to  be  one  of  the  most 
charming  rides  in  the  country. 

Fare  for  one  person  from  Alpine  House   to   Errol   Dam,  $4.00 
"     "    two  persons     "         "  "        "       "  "        7.00 

"      "    three     "  "        "  "        "       "  "        9.00 

"      "    four      "  "         "  "        "       "  "       10.00 

And  all  parties  containing  over  four  people  $2.50  for  each 
person. 
For  further  particulars,  address  STRATTON  &  EDWARDS, 
ALPINE  HOUSE,   GORHAM,   N.H. 


350  SPECIAL  NOTICES. 

GREENWOOD    GARDEN, 

Peaks'  Island      ....      Portland  Haiibob,  Maine. 


lliis  beautiful  Sdvher  Garden,  within  two  minutes' walk  of  Jones'  Landing, 
Peaks'  Island,  is^ituated  close  by  the  scaebore,  where  a  fine  beach  gives  excel- 
lent opportunities  for  bathing. 

The  beautiful  Grove  In  which  it  is  situated  has  many  delightful  retreats.  The 
collection  of  wild  animals,  birds,  etc.,  in  their  separate  enclosures  and  cages,  will 
furnish  much  instruction  and  amusement,  while  the  fine 

Bkating-Rink,  Dance-IIall,  Pcncu  and  Judy  Snows,  Mnsic,  Fibe- 

WOBKS,  AND  ENTEUTAINMENTS  OF  VAKI0U8  KINDS, 

during  the  season,  will  form  a  few  of  the  many  attractions. 

From  the  top  of  the  new  Observatory  splendid  views  may  be  obtained  in 
every  direction. 

A  FIRST-CLASS  RESTAURANT  IS  CONNECTED  WITH  THE 
GARDEN." 
SS"  No  effort  will  be  spared  in  making  this  pleasure  reaort  an  attractive  place 
for  all. 
Admission,  10  cenu;  children,  d  cents. 

C.  H.  KNOWLTON,  Manager. 

The  Steamer  "Emiia"  makes  about  a  dozen  trips  daily  between  Franklin 
Wharf,  Portland,  and  Greenwood  Garden.  Tickets  from  Portland  to  the  Island, 
including  admittance  to  the  Garden,  are  only  25  cents  each. 

ERROL   HOUSE,  ERROL,  N.H. 


Joseph  T.  Chapman,  Proprietor. 


Terms,  $1.50  per  day.      Reduction  by  the  week. 


This  hotel  is  pleasantly  located  on  the  main  road  from  Cam- 
bridge to  Colebrook,  near  the  Androscoggin  River,  and  is  only 
ten  miles  from  the 

CELEBRATED  DIXVILLE  NOTCH, 
and  one  mile  from 

ERROL  DAM, 
where  connection  is  made  with  steamers  for  Magalloway  River, 
Uinbagog  Lake,  Cambridge,  Middle  Dam,  and  other  points  in  the 
Androscoggin  Lakes  Region.  A  good  livery-stable  connected 
with  the  house,  and  a  team  runs  between  the  hotel  and  steamboat 
landing  and  Dixville  Notch  daily.  Sportsmen  and  tourists  will 
find  this  a  pleasant  place  to  spend  their  summer  vacation.  7'he 
house  is  well  furnished,  and  the  table  well  supplied. 
i 


Afflfc  M  Professioil  Stase  Life; 


OR,     THE 


ADVENTURES  OF  BILLY  SHAKE8P0KE, 

BEFORE  AND  BEHIND  THE  CURTAIN. 

BY   ONE  WHO   nA.S   BEEN   THERE. 


Illustrated   Paper  Covers.       Price,  35   Cents. 

224  PAGES,  6  FULL-PAGE  [ILLCSTBATIOKS, 

Designed  and  Drawn  by  Reed,  and    Engraved    by  Jolinson. 


UNIFORM    IN    SIZE    WITH 

CAMP    LIFE   IN  THE  WILDERNESS. 


This  is  a  humorooa  sketch  of  life  on  the  stage,  and  will  make  yon 
laugh  heartUy.  Every  person  who  has  ever  had  any  connection  with  the 
stage,  either  as  an  amateur  or  professional,  should  read  this  book.  It 
interests  every  one,  young  or  old. 

Sent  by  mail,  post-paid,  to  any  address,  on  receipt  of  THIKT7 
FIVE  CENTS. 


Jamaica  Publishing  Company, 

JAMAICA     PLAIN,     MASS. 


P^ARRAR's  Pocket  Map 

or 

Moosehead  Lake 

AMD  THB 

North  Maine  Wilderness, 

Printed  on  toiigh  linen  paper,  and  handsomely  bound  in  cloth 
covers.     Large  size,  20  x  24  inches. 

Every  Tourist,  Sportsman,    Hunter,  and  Lumberman 
should  have  one  of  these  maps. 

It  includes  the  headwaters  of  the 

KENNEBEC, 

Penobscot  &  St.  John  [[iyei|s, 

And  their  principal  Branches. 


Price,  Fifty  Cents. 


Sent  by  mail,    post-paid    to    any    address,    on    receipt  of   price,  by 

CHARLES  A.  J.  FARRAR. 

Jamaica  Plain,       -       -      -       -       Mass. 


FARRAR'S 

POCKET  MAP 

OF  THE 

RANGELEY  i  RICHARDSON 
Lake  Region, 

Connecticut,  Parmachenee,  &  Kennebago  Lakes, 


AND  THE   HEADWATERS   OF  THE 


CONNECTICUT,  ANDROSCOGGIN,  SANDY, 
AND  MAGALLOWAY  RIVERS, 

DIXVILLE   NOTCH,  ANDOVER, 

AND  YICINITY. 


Neatly  folded,  and  bound  in  handsome  cloth  covers. 
Indispensable  to  the  Sportsman  and  Tourist  visiting  the  Lakes. 
Pronounced  by  competent  judges  to  be  the  best  and  most  cor- 
rect map  of  this  country  ever  made. 

PRICE,  50  CENTS. 

May  be  obtained  at  any  Bookstore,  or  will  be  sent  by  mail, 
postage  paid,  on  receipt  of  price,  by 

CHARLES  A,  J.  FARRAR, 

JAMAICA  PLAIN,  MASS. 


354  SPECIAL   NOTICES. 


Paper,   50  cents.  Cloth,   $i.OO. 


FARRAR'S 

Illustrated  Guide 


RANGELEY 


Richardson  Lakes, 

CONNECTICUT, 

PARMACHENEE  AND  KENNEBAGO  LAKES. 


AND  THK  BXADWATKRS  Or  THB 


Connecticut,  Ma|alloway  I  Androscoggin  Rivers, 

DIXVILLE  NOTCH, 

AND 

ANDOVER,    MAINE,  AND  VICINITY. 

With  (30  full-page  Illustrations,  and  the  best  map  of  the  Lake  Region 
ever  made.    Handsomely  bound  in  illuminated  paper  covers. 

May  be  obtained  at  any  Bookstore,  or  will  be  sent  by  mail,  postage  paid  on 
receipt  of  price,  by 

CHARLES  A.  J.  FARRAR, 

JAMAICA  PLAIN,  MASS. 


SPECIAL    NOTICES.  355 


Paper  Kdltion,  50  Cents.  Cloth  Edition,  $1.00. 

FARRAR'S 

TO 

MOOSEHEAD     LAKE 

AND      THE 

iNorth    Maine    Wilderness, 

ALSO,     THE 

KATAHDIU     IRON-WORKS     AND     THE 

GULF,     THE    MONSON    PONDS, 

LAKE    ONAY\rAY,    SEBEC 

LAKE,   &G. 

A  thorough  and  exhaustive  guide  to  the  sporting  resorts  of 
Northern  Maine.  The  country  around  Greenville,  and  Moose- 
head,  and  Sebec  Lakes,  Katahdin  Iron- Works,  the  tours  of  the 

KENNEBEC,   PENOBSCOT,  and  5T.   JOHN   RIVERS, 

Ascent  of  Katahdin,  etc.,  are  plainly  treated.  Contains  the  latest 
rcYised  Game  and  Fish  Laws  of  Maine,  besides  a  large  amount 
of  other  valuable  information,  and  a  large  and  correct  map  of 
the  northern  half  of  Maine,  comprising  about  all  of  the  wild 
lands. 

256  pages.     36  illustrations. 

May  be  obtained  at  any  bookstore,  or  will  be  sent  by  mail, 
postage  paid,  on  receipt  of  price,  by 

CHARLES  A.  J.  FARRAR, 

Jamaica  Plain,  Mass. 


356  SPECIAL   NOTICES. 


STONINGTON  LINE, 


THE    INSIDE    ROUTE. 


Between  BOSTON  &  NEW  YORK. 


AVOIDING   POINT  JUDITH. 


Steamboat  Train  leaves  Boston  <&  Providence  Railroad 
Station  dally  (except  Sundays),  at  6.30  P.M.,  connecting 
at  Stoningrton  -with  steamers  "Stonington"  and  "Narrai- 
gansett,"  arriving  in  Ne"w  York  following  morning  at 
6.00  A.M.  — ahead   of  all  others. 

TICKETS  and  STATEROOMS  secured  at  214  Wash- 
ingrton  Street,  Boston,  and  at  Boston  &  Providence  R.R. 
Station. 

J.  W.  Richardson, 

Agent,    Boston. 
A.   A.    FOLSOM. 

Supt.  B.  o6  P.  R.B. 

r.  W.    POPPLE, 

Gen'l  Passenger  Agent. 


SPECIAL  NOTICES. 


AXDOVER  HOUSE,  Andovek,  Maine. 

A  good  livery-stable  is  connected  with  this  house, 
and  single  or  double  teams  will  be  furnished  by 
Mr.  Thomas,  at  short  notice,  at  reasonable  prices. 

Good  boats  are  Kept  on  the  Richardson  Lakes  by 
Mr.  Thomas,  which  may  be  hired  for  50  cents  per 
day.  Guides  are  also  furnished  to  parties  visiting 
the  Lakes,  for  $2.50  per  day. 

Parties  who  wish  to  "  camp  out "  can  procure  a 
nice  tent  of  Mr.  Thomas,  capable  of  accommodating 
six  persons,  at  a  reasonable  price,  and  thus  avoid 
the  trouble  and  expense  in  bringing  one  from  places 
at  a  distance. 

The  route  to  the  Lakes  by  way  of  Andover  is 
the  cheapest,  shoitest,  and  best. 

Round-trip  tickets  from  Boston  to  Richardson 
(Rangeley)  Lakes,  via  Andover  and  return,  for 
only  $12.00.  All  rail  and  stage.  From  Boston  to 
Upper  Dam  and  return,  rail,  stage,  and  steamer, 
$13.00.     $3.00  cheaper  than  by  any  other  route. 

5^^  Bear  this  in  mind,  and  purchase  your  tickets 
by  the  way  of  Andover. 

ALBERT  W.  THOMAS, 
Andover  House,  Andoveu,  Maine. 


SPECIAL  NOTICES. 


KICHARDSON-RANGLEY    LAKES     TRANS- 
PORTATION  CO. 

To  complete  improvements  that  are  now  under 
way  and  in  contemplation  in  our  business,  a  few 
shares  of  stock  of  the  Richardson-Rangeley  Lakes 
Transportation  Co.  will  be  sold  at  its  par  value. 

This  company  is  organized  under  the  laws  of  the 
State  of  Maine,  to  carry  on  a  general  transportation 
business,  and  has  been  in  successful  working  opera- 
tion three  years.  The  Capital  Stock  of  the  Company 
is  $50,000,  divided  into  500  shares,  at  $100  each. 

This  stock  offers  a  safe,  reliable  and  paying  in- 
vestment to  those  having  spare  funds. 

For  farther  particulars,  address  the  President  or 
General  Manager  as  below. 

J.    A.    L.   WHITTIER,  President, 
10  Rialto  Building, 

Boston,  Mass. 

CHAS.   A.    J.   FARRAR,   Gen.  Manager, 

P.   O.    Box  1467,  Boston,  Mass. 


VIA 

MM,  Coicoril,  Moalreal  &  WMte  ffloDiitains  R.R. 

THE 

Pleasantest  and  Most  Popular  Route  of  Trarel 

TO  THK 

MOUNTAIIT  AND   LAKE  REGIOITS 

OP 

NEW  HAMPSHIRE  AND  VERMONT. 

Also,  the  only  continuous  All-Rail  Route  to  the 

SUMMIT    OF   MT.   WASHINGTON 

and  FRANCONIA  NOTCH. 

4^  Through  train,  with  elegant  PARI.OB  Cabs  attached,  leaves  IjOW«I1 
I>epot,  Boston,  at  8.30  A.  M.,  for 
W£IRS,  PLYMOUTH,  CAMPTON  VII^rAGE, 
NOKTH  WOODSTOCK,  I.ITTI.ETON, 

BETHLEHKKI,  PROFILE  HOUSE, 

TWIN    MOUNTAINS,  FABTAN, 

and    MOUNT    WASHINGTON, 
Jefferson,  liancaster,  and  Groveton  Junction, 

where  connection  is  made  with  the  Grand  Tmnk  Railroad.  At  NORTH 
STRATFORD  connection  is  made  with  Bailey's  Line  of  Stages  for  Cole- 
brook, 

DIXVILLE    NOTCH, 

and  Errol  Dam,  connecting  at  the  latter  place  with  Steamer  Diamond,  for 

I.AKE    UMBAGOG   AND    THE    RICHARDSON    LAKES, 
The  Trout  Fisher's  Paradise. 

The  new  Narrow  Gauge  Railroad  for  Profile  House  connects  with  this 
Line  at  Bethlehem  Junction,  and  tlie  Whitefield  &  Jefferson  R.R.  for  Jeffer- 
son connects  with  this  railroad  at  Whitefield,  making  the  only  direct  route  to 
these  points. 

IlOXJrsri>    TRII*    TICICETS 

From  BOSTON  to  COLEBROOK  and   RANGELET  LAKES  and 

Return,  are  for  sale  at  the 

COMPANY'S  OFFICE,  No.  5  STATE  STREET,  BOSTON. 

&.  f .  STOEER,  Pass,  Agent,  W.  A.  STOWELL,  Sttpt. 

W.  R.  BRACKETT,  G.T.A.,  Plymouth,  N.  H. 


20071 


University  of  Caiifomia 

SOUTHERN  REGIONAL  LIBRARY  FACILITY 

405  Hiigard  Avenue,  Los  Angeles,  CA  90024-1388 

Return  this  material  M  \he  library 

from  wtilch  JLJwas  borrowed. 


WMl 


'JAM  1  6  2001 
SRLF 
QUARTER  LOAN 


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